A drill is an indispensable tool in the arsenal of a home craftsman or professional. This equipment allows you to drill holes of various thicknesses. There are several varieties of such tools. Today, both hand and electric drills are available. Every master should know how to properly use such a tool.

During long-term use, the equipment may fail. You should find out how to change the chuck on a drill before starting work. In this case, even a beginner will be able to properly repair his instrument.

Operating instructions

Working with a drill requires that the technician has carefully read the operating instructions for this tool. This will prevent many breakdowns. The type of tool should also be considered. Hand and electric drills are on sale today. They may differ in size, power and additional features.

Before work, using a drill, it is necessary to examine the wall for the presence of communications hidden in its thickness. These could be electrical wires or pipes. A metal detector will help detect such objects. The hole will always be slightly larger than the diameter of the drill. This must be taken into account when choosing fasteners.

Make sure that when drilling (especially metal) the drill does not slip. This will prevent it from breaking. For ceramic surfaces, it is recommended to use adhesive tape at the drilling site. The drill should be positioned perpendicular to the wall.

Types of cartridges

There are several types of cartridges. This must be taken into account before repairing the instrument. Electric drills most often use quick-release chucks. They make it easy to change drills during operation. This type of cartridge, for example, is available in the Makita, Bosch, Hitachi electric drills. etc. You should not buy cheap models with such a device. They quickly become unusable.

Impact drills use jaw chucks. They are stable even when working in difficult conditions. Installation of the drill is carried out in such systems using a special key.

There is also a third category of cartridges. These are SDS collet chucks. There are 2 grooves in their shank. In this case, the drill is screwed into it and secured with a locking ball. This cartridge also has 4 grooves. Two of them are needed for the guide wedges. The other two grooves provide reliable fixation of the equipment. In this chuck, the spindle is automatically locked after installation.

Mounting type

Considering the types of drill chucks. It is impossible not to note the methods of their fastening. There are two main methods. Fastening can be done using a threaded connection or on a cone.

In the first option, there is a thread on the shaft and internal channel. It can be metric or inch (depending on the manufacturer). To make the connection strong, a special screw is installed inside the shaft. It has a left-hand thread. It is unscrewed clockwise.

In the second fixation option, a Morse taper is used. The shaft end has characteristic shape. It is made in the shape of a cone. The internal channel has the same shape. It is at the end of the shaft that the cartridge is installed. This mounting option is more common in screwdrivers.

Marking

When repairing a drill, you can determine the type of chuck attachment by the markings. If the system has threaded connection, the relevant information will be printed on the body. Metric thread is designated by the letter “M9raquo;. The number indicated after the letter indicates the diameter of the connection. The maximum diameter of the drill chuck and its minimum shank value are also indicated (for example, range 1-15 mm). The last number indicated in the marking indicates the thread pitch.

For the inch system, the designation UNF is used. Before you begin repairing equipment, you must carefully check whether the fastening of the new part meets the parameters established by the manufacturer. Almost all foreign instruments use the inch system.

The conical connection is marked with the letter “B9raquo; and a number (this is the size of the end of the shaft). You should also definitely pay attention to this indicator when choosing a new part.

When should you change the cartridge?

When repairing a Makita, Hitachi, Stanley, Bosch drill, you should first read the manufacturer’s instructions. This will help you get the job done well. The chuck must hold the drill firmly. This allows you to drill holes with a certain accuracy.

Over time, the clamping mechanism wears out. This also applies to the cartridge seat on the shaft. He starts hitting. The working area begins to oscillate when the equipment is operating. In this case, the hole is obtained with deviations both in diameter and location.

The wear of the mechanism does not allow the drill to be firmly clamped in the chuck. It will stop when the load increases. To fix such problems, you will have to replace the clamping mechanism.

Replacing the threaded cartridge

Replacing the chuck on a drill should be done in accordance with the type of design. To remove the threaded connection, use a screwdriver. It is used to unscrew the spindle screw. It is located inside the drill. The screw should be unscrewed completely and removed from the spindle. This element has a left-hand thread. Therefore, it should be unscrewed clockwise.

The cartridge, on the contrary, has a right-hand thread. To remove it, you will need to unscrew this structural element counterclockwise.

Sometimes the screw is screwed in very tightly. It can be quite difficult to dismantle it manually. In this case, it is enough to tap the screwdriver with a hammer when it is installed in the groove on the fastener. You can also use a gas or open-end wrench. The first of them should grasp the chuck, and the second should secure the spindle.

Difficulties when replacing a threaded cartridge

Sometimes even a drill chuck wrench cannot help dismantle the tool structure. In this case, you can use several more approaches. If the chuck's clamping jaws work, you can use a larger hexagon. This will help you apply more force. In this case, it is necessary to secure the spindle with an open-end wrench.

Modern cartridge design electric drills does not imply the use additional equipment. However, this does not mean at all that it will be easier to change the cartridge for them. In this case, it is quite difficult to dismantle the clamping mechanism.

Sometimes it is necessary to disassemble the instrument body. This will allow you to reach the spindle hidden inside it. When assembled, this element can be hidden deep in the body. After dismantling and replacing the cartridge, the structure is assembled in the reverse order. In this case, you will not need to use additional keys.

If for some reason the screw inside is damaged, it can be replaced. In this case, it is recommended to purchase a cartridge adapter. It is sold for a cam type tool. The adapter also comes with a screw.

Replacing the cone chuck

Considering how to change the chuck on a drill. You should consider a variety such as a cone clamping mechanism. In this case, the procedure will be quite simple. In this case, you can use a special device. It is used for dismantling bearings.

To remove the cone-type clamping mechanism, place the drill vertically. Its drill should point downwards. Tap the entire surface of the cartridge with a hammer. In this case, the clamping mechanism will gradually become knocked out of its seat.

The cone connection must then be cleaned and sanded with fine sandpaper. After this, the new cartridge will easily fall into place. It is fixed with a light blow of a hammer from above.

Causes of problems with the clamping mechanism

The drill, the instructions for use of which must be studied by the master before starting work, requires proper operation. In this case, many problems will be avoided.

Today, most electrical varieties of such equipment are equipped with an SDS type cartridge. It was developed by Bosch. This device is not very accurate. However, this mechanism allows you to drill holes even in hard materials. In this case, the tool operates with impact. In this case, drilling accuracy cannot be achieved. A special adapter is used for this.

If it is necessary to drill a precise hole in wood, metal, or plastic, a special nozzle is used. It is produced for both quick-release and jaw chucks.

It should be remembered that milling cannot be done with a drill. In this case, the cartridge will not be able to withstand the lateral load. You also need to pay attention to the correct choice of drill, sharpening it, and marking the center of the drill (using a core).

Drill maintenance

Periodically, the tool needs to be serviced, old parts need to be replaced, and moving parts need to be lubricated. In this case, you also need to learn how to change the chuck on a drill. Cone chuck it is necessary to turn the nozzle upward. It is covered with wooden spacers and clamped in a vice.

Use a gas wrench to unscrew the nut and remove the bearing. The washer is pulled out. Next, the cartridge can be removed from the vice. The adjusting sleeve is twisted by hand. The cams must be removed from the guides.

After dismantling, all parts of the clamping mechanism must be inspected, and worn parts must be replaced. Next, the mechanism is assembled in the reverse order. All moving parts are lubricated with grease.

Other problems during dismantling

Sometimes other problems arise during the dismantling process. For example, if the drill chuck is jammed. you need to disassemble the mechanism and make it complete cleaning, lubricant. Especially such troubles appear after drilling the ceiling. Contaminants fall inside the cartridge. In this case, it may jam.

If the cartridge flies off, you will need to increase the tension in the cone connection. To do this, the mechanism must be heated to 110ºC in the oven. After this, it is installed on a cold seat. After this procedure, the cartridge will not fly off.

Runout may also occur when the tool is used. It occurs due to wear on the cone base or uneven destruction of the cam surfaces. In this case, replacement of old system elements is required.

Having considered how to change the chuck on a drill, almost every master will be able to repair the tool to continue repair or construction work.

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Drill chucks for drills - dimensions

All drill users sooner or later are concerned with the following questions related to the drill chuck:

• What is the maximum drill shank diameter it can clamp?
• What is the minimum drill shank diameter that it can clamp?
• what seat does it have?

The first and second points will be of interest if it is necessary to use drills or attachments of certain diameters. And the third - when there is a need to replace the cartridge.

This article will clearly explain all sizes of drill chucks to help users understand these issues. I note that all of the following applies equally to both quick-release and key chucks.

Maximum drill shank diameter

This size shows how wide the clamping jaws at the cartridge.

According to this parameter, drill chucks can have the following maximum dimensions:

Moreover, the first three sizes are very rare. Other diameters are much more common.

A huge number of cartridges of all sizes at the lowest prices with free delivery to your region

It is not difficult to guess that the manufacturer selects the maximum clamping diameter of the shank for a particular drill based on its power and dimensions. It would be absurd to install a 16 mm chuck on a small 300 W drill, just as it would be ridiculous to install a 10 mm chuck on a kilowatt model. Although this is quite possible, since, for example, there are kilowatt drills with a 1/2″ seat, where a chuck with a 16 mm clamp is initially installed, and there are also 10 mm chucks with the same fit. Well, plantings will be discussed below in the corresponding section.

Regarding the maximum diameter of the clamp, this question begins to worry the user if he is unable to clamp a larger diameter nozzle or drill than his drill model allows. Well, in such a situation, you can choose a suitable chuck, but you shouldn’t get too carried away with working with a large-diameter fit, since, most likely, your drill is not designed to work with it due to its low power.

Minimum drill shank diameter

Chucks come in the following sizes according to their minimum clamping diameter:

• size 0.5 mm is available on chucks with a maximum clamping capacity of up to 6.5 mm;
• 0.8 mm - up to 10 mm;
• 1 mm - up to 6, 10 and 13 mm;
• 1.5 mm - up to 10 and 13 mm;
• 2 mm - up to 13 mm;
• 3 mm - up to 16 mm.

Here the user has a need that is the opposite of what was indicated in the previous section. That is, you have a chuck that clamps drills and bits with a shank, for example, by 2 mm, and you need to clamp the shank into it by 1 mm.

Again, the issue is solvable. The only thing is that it can be inconvenient to work with a large and heavy drill with a small-diameter drill - it can easily be broken. Well, it’s worth noting that sizes of 0.5 and 0.8 mm can also be difficult to find.

The largest selection of drills at the lowest prices with free delivery to your region

Seat

It can be threaded or conical. Most modern models use a threaded connection. However, sometimes it can also be conical - mainly on drills with a chuck for a maximum shank of 16 mm.

The thread can be metric, but in most cases on modern drills it is inch. Manufacturers always write directly on the cartridge what kind of thread it has, if, of course, it is threaded.

Inch threads come in the following sizes:

Threaded cartridge marked 1.5 - 13 mm - 1/2

The most common ones are 3/8 and 1/2. These two fits can be used on chucks with a maximum clamping shank of 10 and 13 mm. The 1/2 seat is rare, but is also found on chucks with clamps up to 16 mm. 1/4 is a fit for cartridges up to 6.5 mm, and 5/8 is again up to 16.

Metric threads are only M12. Suitable for clamping chucks up to 10, 13 and 16 mm.

The conical seat may be designated B12, B16 and B18. The numbers indicate the diameter in millimeters. They are used on chucks with clamps up to 10, 13 and 16 mm. And most often with the latter diameter.

Conical cartridge marked 3-13 mm B16

That's all I wanted to say about drill chuck sizes. I hope I helped you figure it all out. I’ll end this article here - see you next time!

Cartridge thread - what is it?

tgr wrote.
3/8 is approximately (3/8/*2.54=0.9525 cm),
1/2 is also about 1.27 cm.

On your digital caliper the dimensions are indicated correctly, but in the post they are not. Threads are not measured in centimeters (as in everything else). Only in millimeters, tenths, hundredths. for example 9.525mm
Now to the point.

tgr wrote.
Question one - see photos 5 and 6: why does the G 3/8 die (and K 3/8) have such a diameter?

The G 3/8 die has not only a larger diameter, but also a larger pitch.
the thread for the cartridge has dimensions:
1/2″x20, where 1/2″ diameter is in inches; 20 is the number of threads (threads) per inch of screw length.
Thread diameter in mm 12.7mm, pitch in mm 1.270mm
3/8″x24 Thread diameter in mm 9.525mm, pitch in mm 1.058mm
Thread G 3/8 pitch 19 threads. Thread diameter in mm 16.663 mm, pitch in mm 1.337 mm
Inch thread 3/8″ has a pitch of 16 threads. Thread diameter in mm is 9.525 mm, pitch in mm is 1.588 mm

tgr wrote.
The second question is - what (which die) to use to cut the so-called 3/8 thread on the new spindle?

There is almost a 100% guarantee that you will not find such a die. Inch dies are still found, but I have never seen inch dies with fine pitches. Maybe you'll get lucky. Moreover, threads on a spindle are never cut with a die, only with a cutter, unless, of course, you are interested in rotating the chuck without runout.

How to remove a threaded chuck from a drill, methods for attaching chucks

You have to remove the chuck from the electric drill to clean or replace it. The dismantling process itself is simple, and sometimes difficulties that arise can be solved. Our guide clearly shows how to properly remove the chuck from a drill with your own hands.

Methods for attaching cartridges

Hand drills use two types of drill chuck mounting:

1. Morse taper - a conical shaft shank and a corresponding hole in the chuck.
2. Threaded fastening - a thread on a shaft onto which the cartridge is screwed like a nut.

Take a close look at the metal rod between the body and the cartridge. In the case of a threaded fit, the slots for the open-end wrench are usually visible, and the tapered shaft is always smooth.

The method of fastening is also indicated by the markings stamped on the cartridge:

1. The Morse cone is designated by the abbreviation B10, B12, etc. (B is the cone, the number is the maximum drill size).
2. The marking of the threaded cartridge contains a designation of the type and diameter of the thread: M13 (metric by 13 mm) or UNF-1/2 (inch by half inch).

Removing the threaded cartridge

For drills with a reverse function, the drill chuck is additionally secured with a locking screw, visible through the open jaws.

Threaded chuck locking screw.

The slots on the screw head can be cross-shaped, hexagonal or even star-shaped. Prepare the required screwdriver, wrench or bit. Use a tool with complete splines that fit exactly.

Unscrew the cartridge locking screw.

Measure the size of the wrench space on the drill shaft. Most likely, it will be 14 mm for a mid-range tool or 17 mm for a more powerful device.

We select the key to the cartridge.

Prepare an open-end wrench with thin jaws. You can take a suitable one from a bicycle repair kit or grind off the edges of a regular key using sandpaper.

Prepare the open-end wrench.

Hold the drill shaft with a wrench and try using a screwdriver to unscrew the screw clockwise (left-hand thread).

Try not to tear off the splines.

If the thread does not work, secure the electric drill chuck in a vice and hit the screw head several times with a hammer through a steel rod.

Now the thread will become more pliable and the screw will come loose.

Difficulties may arise. Try increasing the leverage by holding a hex wrench in the chuck.

As a last resort, use a vice, placing a drill in it as in the photo below.

Move the cartridge from its place by striking the driver secured through the square head.

This method makes it possible to unscrew fairly strongly stuck cartridges.

The threaded chuck removed from the drill.

After cleaning, install the cartridge in reverse order, remembering different directions threads.

Apply a little paint to the threads before tightening the locking screw.

Specifics of cone fastening

In modern hand-held electric drills, the Morse taper is rarely found. Such models are equipped with special pullers, and the dismantling process is displayed in the technical description.

In old Soviet drills The design of the gearbox made it possible to remove the cartridge using rather crude methods. One could try to separate the conical surfaces with a wedge-shaped object, lightly knocking it from different sides.

Another option was to take the drill with one hand with the chuck facing down, and with the other to apply light blows to the end with a hammer. If that didn’t help, we lubricated the landing site with a penetrating compound (kerosene or WD-40), let it sit for several hours, and tried to knock the cartridge off again.

This method can be used if the shaft bearing is installed inside the housing. For most drills used today, this method is unacceptable, as it can lead to damage to the bearings or gearbox.

When selecting a new chuck, pay attention to the type of fastening, bore diameter and the ability to operate in impact mode, if your drill has this option.

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Drill repair - how to remove and install a drill chuck

Even the most reliable branded power tool, such as an electric drill. A hammer drill or screwdriver, not to mention a Chinese-made tool, wears out over time, depending on the intensity of use, and begins to hold drills and bits poorly, or the chuck jams.

The same fate befell the chuck of my electric drill, which has been serving faithfully for more than 12 years. The malfunction of the cartridge began to manifest itself with jamming, resulting in difficulty in rotating the release ring. In addition, water got inside the cartridge during the renovation of the apartment, and a coating of rust appeared in the guide grooves of the cartridge cams. The working surfaces of the cams are also worn out. Although the drill chuck was still working, changing drills was extremely inconvenient. I decided to replace the chuck with a new one, and then the question arose: how to remove it from the drill shaft?

Methods for attaching a drill chuck to a shaft
drills and screwdrivers

In order to answer the question of how to remove a drill chuck, you need to understand the existing methods of attaching chucks to the shafts of drills and screwdrivers.

There are two ways to secure the chuck to a power tool. The first method was proposed back in 1864 by Stephen Morse using a cone. Morse, by the way, is also the inventor of the twist drill. The essence of the method is to pair two surfaces in the form of a shaft and a part with a hole, having the same taper with an angle in the range from 1°25’43″ to 1°30’26″. In honor of the inventor, this fastening method was called the Morse cone, which is shown in the photo below. The cone in the photo has a larger angle for clarity.

The Morse taper mounting method is widespread, as it is simple and quite reliable under loads along the axis, as in drills and screwdrivers. To attach the drill chuck, it is enough to put it with a little effort on the back side of the shaft with a Morse taper. Removing the cartridge is also simple; just hit its body along the axis in the direction of the drill installation location with a hammer. The ability to quickly install and remove a tool while working is the main advantage of mounting using a Morse taper.

The second, more common nowadays for attaching a drill chuck to the shafts of a power tool, is the threaded method.

At the end of the shaft coming out of the drill or screwdriver, a metric or inch thread is cut and the drill chuck, like a nut, is screwed onto this shaft until it touches the flange. Since the thread is right-handed, and when performing work the chuck mainly rotates clockwise, it is constantly tightened and thereby ensures its reliable fastening to the tool.

How to find out how it is secured
drill chuck on tool

An external inspection of a power tool often fails to determine how the drill chuck is secured. But if you know the markings of drill chucks, then the method of fastening will be determined even with a quick glance at the chuck.

fastened with a Morse taper

In accordance with GOST 9953-82 “Shortened tool cones. Basic dimensions." There are nine standard sizes of Morse cones for fastening drill chucks: B7, B10, B12, B16, B18, B22, B24, B32 and B45. The larger the number after the letter B, the larger size cone

Now you can easily determine how to install the drill chuck shown in the photograph by the markings on it. Obviously, this cartridge is attached using a Morse taper of size B10. To remove this chuck from the shaft of a power tool, you will need to knock it down with a hammer.

In the markings before B10 there are also numbers 1-6. They indicate the range of drill shank diameters that the drill chuck can clamp.

Drill chuck markings
fastened with thread

Both metric and inch threads are used to secure the drill chuck to the tool using threads. Cartridges from domestic manufacturers, as a rule, are produced with metric threads, and those from imported manufacturers are always produced with inch threads.

Drill chucks with metric threads are usually marked on the body the following type: 1.5-13 M12×1.25. The numbers 1.5-13, as you probably already guessed, mean the diameter of the shanks of drills or other tools that can be clamped in this chuck. The letter M indicates that the thread is metric, the numbers 12 and 1.25 indicate the diameter of the thread and the pitch of its thread, respectively. Currently, drill chucks with fastening on a metric thread are practically not found, except that such a chuck can be seen on an old Soviet-made hand drill.

Currently, the market is filled with power tools from foreign manufacturers, and drill chucks on them are usually attached using inch threads.

Drill chucks with inch threads are marked according to the same principle as chucks with metric threads. For example, 2-13 mm 1/2 –20 UNF, as in the photo. Numbers 2-13 indicate the range of clamping diameters of drill shanks, 1/2 is the thread diameter in inches (for reference, one English inch is equal to 2.54 cm), 20 indicates the number of threads per inch (thread pitch).

Having learned the rules for marking drill chucks, now you can easily determine how it is attached to the tool and can choose the correct technology for replacing the chuck. Marking also allows you to purchase an interchangeable chuck in case it wears out or breaks on a drill or screwdriver.

Which method of clamping
drill chuck for drill is better

In household drills and screwdrivers, one of the types is usually installed according to the method of clamping the working tool of the chucks, this is with the help of a key and quick-clamping ones. Key jaw chucks have been around for a long time and are well known to any home craftsman. Keyless chucks have only recently come into use, and they quickly gained great popularity.

In the photo on the left you see a quick-release chuck, and on the right you see a key chuck with a key. There is an opinion that a key chuck clamps drills better, but from many years of experience in using both a key chuck and a quick-release chuck, I dare say that there is no difference. Both types of cartridges are clamped with equal success. Only the convenience and speed of changing drills in a drill with a keyless chuck is undeniable. There is no need for a key, which is always lost during operation, unless it is secured to the drill or tied to it with a rope; you need to use two hands to clamp the drill.

The method of clamping the chuck is not related to the method of attaching it to the drill shaft, so if you change the chuck with a key clamping method, I advise you to install a chuck with a quick-release method of fixing drills instead.

How to unscrew the chuck from a drill
screwed

As a rule, chucks secured with a thread on the tool shaft are additionally secured with a screw with a left-hand thread. Therefore, removing the drill chuck must begin with unscrewing this screw. In order to get to the screw, you need to push the chuck jaws as far inward as possible, as shown in the photo.

On the bottom of the cartridge in the center there should be a screw head with a slot for a Phillips screwdriver or an asterisk. To prevent the screw from unscrewing when drilling, it is installed with a left-hand thread. Therefore, you need to unscrew the screw by rotating the screwdriver clockwise. There may not be a screw. In this case, immediately proceed to the second step - unscrewing the chuck from the tool shaft.

How to unscrew a chuck from the shaft of a drill or screwdriver

To remove the chuck from the tool, you need to fix the shaft and, grabbing the chuck by the body, unscrew it, rotating counterclockwise, as viewed from the cams. The main thing is to get the cartridge off the ground; then it usually unscrews easily.

I was lucky, since there were chamfers on the round base of the chuck that could be easily grasped with a #19 open-end wrench. There were no such samples in the replacement cartridge purchased.

After grabbing the chuck with an open-end wrench and one sharp blow on the wrench with a hammer, even without fixing the shaft, as in the photo, the chuck moved. But it was difficult to unscrew, and there was a reason for this. I had to continue twisting it by lightly hitting the key with a hammer.

Looking inside the chuck, I did not notice the fixing screw because the hole in the head for the star bit was clogged with dirt, which just needed to be removed. Therefore, while unscrewing the cartridge, I simultaneously tore off the thread of the fixing screw; it is strange that it did not break off.

If there are no chamfers on the base of the cartridge, then you need to clamp a hex rod or an M10-12 bolt with a hex head in its jaws, place a key on it and hit it with a hammer. If you cannot screw the chuck in this way, you will have to disassemble the drill, remove the shaft with the chuck, clamp it in a vice and twist it. Instead of an open-end wrench, you can use a pipe wrench by grasping the chuck by the outer part of the housing.

How to screw a chuck onto the shaft of a drill or screwdriver

It was not possible to find a new screw with a left-hand thread, because they are used only in exceptional cases. I tried to screw the screw into place into the drill shaft, it screwed in without any problems and, to my surprise, held on tightly.

For more convenient tightening and further unscrewing, I decided to use a hacksaw to cut a slot in the head of the screw for a flat-head screwdriver. In order not to spoil the already damaged thread, before clamping the screw in a vice, I wrapped the thread with a piece of leather.

A drill chuck of the same type was purchased in advance. Installing it on the drill presented no difficulties. It is screwed clockwise, like an ordinary nut on a bolt. It is enough to lightly attach the chuck to the shaft threads and lightly hold the chuck by the body and turn on the drill. When the chuck is screwed in all the way, release it and turn off the drill.

Next, you need to open the jaws of the chuck and tighten the fixing screw. The drill has now been repaired and is ready for use again. Test drilling showed that the drill began to work like new, the chuck holds tightly, the drill is easily and securely clamped in the chuck.

Quick-release and keyed

Any craftsman who has a drill on his farm may encounter a situation where the drill chuck begins to hit (the center is lost) and the drill moves from side to side, as a result of which normal work will not work. Or the chuck's jaws are simply worn out, which can happen over time.
In this case, the cartridge should be replaced with a new one. How to choose it correctly?

There are several types of drill chucks. There are threaded ones, some are on a cone, which are simply pushed on and not screwed on. Let's consider them in more detail so as not to make a mistake when choosing.

Threaded chuck.

On thread

It is put on the drill by screwing it onto a threaded pin, which is located on the drill.
There are two main types of threaded chuck. They differ in thread types.
They are marked (1.5-13 M12*1.25) and (1.5-13 1/2 - 20 UNF)

The numbers 1.5-13 indicate the maximum and minimum diameter of the drill shank that can be clamped into the chuck. The minimum is 1.5mm, the maximum is 13mm, 13.5 is also included, I checked it personally. On some chucks the minimum clamping diameter is 2mm.
M12 – means that the hole at the bottom is 12mm.
1.25 or 1/2 - 20 UNF is different types threads, the first is metric, the second is inch.

Choose correctly, the cartridges are not interchangeable, if there is a marking on the cartridge M12*1.25, then take that one. If M12*1/2 – 20 UNF – then only this one. If the inscription is erased, you will have to remove the cartridge from the drill and take it with you to the store.

How to remove it?
To do this, twist the cartridge counterclockwise. Sometimes the cartridge is additionally secured with a screw, which is located in the center,

this screw has a left-hand thread, i.e. unscrews clockwise, and not as usual - counterclockwise. First, unscrew the chuck (spread the jaws), then tighten the screw. After this, you can twist the cartridge itself counterclockwise; its thread is standard. It happens that this is very difficult to do, since over time it is very delayed. To remove, you can use it to grab it tightly, for example, take number two. You can use the help of a friend: one holds the neck of the drill with one key, the second twists the cartridge itself with another key. Especially if the drill is old, it’s a little difficult without an assistant.

Cartridge on a cone.

They are put on by simple push-on. There are also several varieties: B10, B12, B16, B18. If there is a letter “B” in the marking on the cartridge, know that it is on a cone and there is no thread at the bottom.
The number in the cartridge marking indicates the diameter of the hole at the bottom. The larger it is, the bigger hole. In chucks B10, B12 you can clamp a drill with a maximum shank of 13mm. And B16, B18 allow you to clamp drills with a shank up to 16mm.
Such a cartridge should be removed by knocking it out of the drill, simply and simply using a hammer.
It is mounted on a special pin - a holder located on the drill.

There are cartridges with key, has quick-release fasteners(in the first photo).
The advantages of quick clamping include the fact that it is convenient to quickly change drills. The downside is that sometimes drills can turn, especially if the shank is cylindrical (round) and not hexagonal, especially when the drill for metal is of large diameter. The load is large, but you can’t tighten it by hand, which can’t be said about the “classic” cartridges, which are tightened with a key. In my opinion, this is much more reliable. The only negative is that you can lose the key, for this it is logical to screw it onto the drill cable with electrical tape so that it is always in its place.

There are chucks with a 1/4" hex shank that can clamp drills from 0.6mm.

When choosing a chuck for a hammer drill, the buyer must understand the design of such a clamping device. This will allow you to immediately resolve questions about which tool in the kit can be used with a hammer drill and what types of processing can be performed using such equipment. In addition, knowledge of the structure of the hammer drill chuck allows you not only to independently replace the clamping device, but also to carry out its simple repairs, if the need arises.

How do chucks for hammer drills work?

To effectively use different hammer drill bits, you need to ensure that they are securely attached. A special cartridge is used for this. Its first models began to be developed back in the 30s of the last century, when hammer drills appeared on the market, the mass production of which was mastered by the world famous company Bosch.

This handheld device, as a hammer drill, was almost immediately appreciated by consumers, since it can be used to combine drilling with pulse chiselling, which significantly increases the efficiency of the processing performed. The main drawback of the first models of rotary hammers was precisely due to the fact that the weakest link in their design was the cartridge, which quickly became unusable under the influence of shock loads.

As a result of long-term development, manufacturers of hammer drills and chucks have come to the following conclusion: the simpler the design of the clamping device, the more reliable it is in operation.

As a result, three main types of cartridges for rotary hammers were created, which in turn are divided into subtypes.

Gear-crown (key)

There are chucks in which the working attachment is fixed using a special key that activates cams that securely clamp the shank of the tool being used. The most significant advantage of this type of chucks is that they provide reliable fastening of the tool used in conjunction with the hammer drill. Meanwhile, to replace the working tool in such a chuck for a hammer drill, you will need to spend significantly more time than when using other types of clamping devices.

Quick-clamping (BZP)

The working attachment of the hammer drill can also be fixed on it using a quick-release chuck (KLC), which is activated only by the force created by the operator’s hands. Depending on the design, cartridges of this type can be single- or double-clutch, the operating principles of which also differ.

Single-socket chucks are easier to use, but they can only be used in conjunction with drills that have the ability to automatically lock the working shaft. To activate such a cartridge, the effort of one hand is sufficient. To use a double clutch clamp, you need to hold the rear clutch with one hand and rotate the front clutch with the other.

What is SDS

SDS (SDS) is an acronym made up of the first letters of the words Steck, Dreh, Sitzt, which translated from German mean “insert, turn, secured.” It is on this simple, but at the same time ingenious principle that the SDS cartridge, developed by Bosch engineers in the 80s of the last century, works. Today, 90% of all manufactured rotary hammers are equipped with these easy-to-use devices, which ensure high reliability of fixing the working tool.

SDS chucks are often called quick-clamping chucks, but they should not be confused with devices in which clamping is achieved by rotating the couplings. Unlike traditional quick-release chucks, the SDS clamp does not need to be rotated to secure the tool; you just need to hold it with your hand.

To understand the structure of a hammer drill chuck of this type, as well as the principle of its operation, just look at the tool shank, which is designed to be fixed in such a device, or the SDS adapter. This shank has 4 grooves, two of which are open at the end of the shank, and the other two are closed. Open grooves act as guides; they ensure the correct position of the tool when it enters the chuck. The closed grooves, in turn, ensure the fixation of the shank in the hammer drill chuck.

In the inner part of the SDS cartridge there are special balls that perform two functions simultaneously. At the moment when the tool is just inserted into the hammer drill, the balls along which the guide grooves move ensure its correct position. After the tool is inserted all the way, such balls fix it, for which it is necessary to turn it a little until the balls enter the closed grooves of the shank. To make using the SDS chuck even easier, it is recommended that the tool shank not only be thoroughly cleaned after each use, but also lubricated.

It should be borne in mind that due to the design features of SDS chucks, the tool that is fixed in them is subject to slight radial runout at idle, which does not in any way affect the accuracy of the processing performed. Meanwhile, the presence of a small play between the shank and the inner surface of the chuck protects the latter from the impact to which drills are exposed during the operation of the hammer drill.

Types and scope of application of SDS cartridges

Depending on the diameter of the shank with which the tool or adapter is equipped for fixing it on the hammer drill, SDS chucks are divided into five main types: regular SDS chucks, models of the SDS-top, SDS-quick categories, as well as SDS-plus and SDS-chucks. max. The most popular are the SDS-plus category chucks, which are designed to hold tools with a shank diameter of 10 mm. The shank of the tool, adapted for fixing devices of the SDS-plus category, enters them to a depth of 40 mm. In this case, the diameter of the working part of the tool, which is fixed in SDS-plus chucks, can be in the range of 4–26 mm.

The maximum tool length that can be clamped in SDS-plus chucks is 1 meter, and its most common working diameters are in the range of 6–12 mm. Devices designed to hold SDS-plus shanks and corresponding adapters for rotary hammers in them are used to equip light and medium category equipment, the weight of which, excluding the weight of the tool, ranges from 3 to 5 kg. It is precisely these hammer drills, which are designed for impact loads of up to 5 J, that are most popular among home craftsmen and small repair teams.

SDS-max chucks, with a bore diameter of 18 mm, are used to equip heavy professional rotary hammers, whose weight starts from 5 kg. Such hammer drills, which can be used in conjunction with tools with a working diameter of up to 6 mm, are able to create an impact load of up to 30 J. To ensure accurate and reliable fixation of the tool in such serious equipment, an additional guide groove is provided on shanks of the SDS-max category .

SDS-top and SDS-quick chucks are intermediate options equipment of rotary hammers and are used much less frequently than the models described above. Meanwhile, the design of SDS-quick devices, which were developed by Bosch engineers in 2008, is worth taking a closer look at. The tool is inserted into the SDS-quick series chucks not using grooves, but through protrusions on the shank. The design features of SDS-quick chucks allow them to hold tools with a hexagonal shank and a quarter-inch size.

How to disassemble and assemble a cartridge yourself

To perform maintenance and repair of a hammer drill chuck with your own hands, it is important to properly remove and disassemble this device. Knowing how to disassemble a hammer drill chuck (or how to disassemble a drill chuck), you will be able to independently inspect, clean and even make minor repairs to its internal elements, which will allow you to always maintain your tool in good technical condition. The simple design of SDS cartridges allows them to be removed and disassembled even by people who are not comfortable with technology.

So, disassembling the classic SDS hammer drill chuck is performed in the following sequence.

Step one

The plastic part is removed from the cartridge and the rubber seal is removed.

Step two

Using a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring and then the retaining washer.

Step three

When the locking washer is removed, you can see a second ring underneath it, which also needs to be removed using a screwdriver.

Step four

After all the rings and washers have been removed, you can begin to disassemble the SDS mechanism, which consists of a washer, a ball and a spring. First of all, it is necessary to remove the ball from such a mechanism, then the washer and only then the spring.

Quick-release chuck for rotary hammers – a revolution in power tool equipment

In 1980, BOSCH introduced the new SDS quick-change chuck concept to power tool manufacturers. This abbreviation means Steck-Dreh-Sitzt (free translation into Russian - insert, turn, sit). And it sits really tight. Over the 25 years of its existence, there has been no need to improve the design of the cartridge.

The developer did not monopolize the design, but sold competitors the right to use the technology. Thanks to this, the design of the SDS quick-release chuck has received a unification recognized by all market participants. The most different manufacturers is equipped with such cartridges, and there are countless factories producing nozzles.

keyless chuck for hammer drill

There are hammer drills with other types of cartridges. For example, collet, cam, with rigid fixation of the tool. On modern market household power tools are rather exotic. Or such cartridges are used in professional tools. A home craftsman going to choose a rotary hammer needs to remember the abbreviation SDS.

For the right choice perforator according to the type of cartridge, and subsequent purchase of tips (drills), let’s figure out what a chuck for a rotary hammer is. and how it works.

The hammer drill chuck is constantly subjected to torsional and shock loads. This places high demands on manufacturing quality.

IMPORTANT! The instructions for any hammer drill instruct you to always lubricate the working tip before installing it in the chuck. If this is not done, the part will quickly fail.

One thing saves - the cartridge can be serviced and replaced. At the same time, the whole trick of the design is that the locking mechanism itself does not experience stress loads. And the stop, to which all impacts are transmitted, is a monolithic unit that is motionless relative to the structure.

Therefore, the cartridges in the rotary hammer serve for a long time and trouble-free, subject to timely maintenance and lubrication.

What types of cartridges are there and what is the difference?

Since rotary hammers are produced in two main weight categories - “heavy” and “light”, the cartridges also have two main modifications. This is due to the ability to hold working tips of different diameters. There are several standards: SDS, SDS-plus, SDS-max, SDS-top and SDS-quick. We will consider the most common of them in more detail.

The diameter of the nozzle shank is 10 mm, the landing length is 40 mm. The working diameter ranges from 4 to 26 mm. The length of the nozzle (excluding seat) is no more than 1 meter. Impact load up to 5 J. Light and medium category hammer drills work with such cartridges. This power tool is held by human muscle power.

SDS-max cartridge disassembly sequence

As a rule, the diameter of the shank nozzle is 18 mm, the landing length is 90 mm. and the diameter of the working area can reach 60 mm. Installed on heavy-duty and professional rotary hammers with shock loads up to 30 J.

Given the size and weight of professional hammer drills, it is often possible to work with them only with the help of supports and guides.

The design and principle of operation of the cartridge are quite simple. Clamping technology can be understood by looking at the shank of a drill or chisel. Two open slots align with guide splines inside the chuck. Torque is transmitted through them during operation. The tip can move along these slots without fixation.

keyless chuck device

The closed slots are designed to mate with ball clamps, which prevent the tip from falling out, there is no load on the clamps. The impact load in perforation mode is transmitted to the working tip through its heel (end). The pneumatic or electric drive of the hammer drill moves the piston along the axis, and compressed air drives the so-called “hammer”, which transmits blows to the hammer drill chuck.

By pulling the ring on the body, we release the ball clamps. The tip can be removed. When installing a new tip, release the ring - the balls in the grooves fix the tip, allowing it to move freely along the axis within the mounting length.

Variety of attachment applications

SDS shank clamp device

In addition to attachments in the classical sense - drills, augers, chisels, chisels, various adapters can be installed in the SDS type chuck, for example, a clamping chuck for a drill.

This significantly expands the capabilities of the hammer drill. Without buying a new main tool, you can perform different drilling and drilling jobs by simply changing the attachments. At the same time, using powerful drills, say for wood, you will not overload a portable electric drill when using a durable hammer drill.

It is impossible to drill a hole in a concrete wall for a new socket using a conventional drill. And the crown, installed in the SDS chuck of a small hammer drill, bites into the wall like butter.

adapter with SDS shank for clamping a conventional drill

When working with universal attachments, especially for drilling or tightening screws, you must remember that a hammer drill is not a precision tool. The principle of its operation provides for the presence of backlash and vibration. Therefore, it works well where brute force is needed.
You can install an adapter cartridge to a different bore diameter.

IMPORTANT! It is permissible to use SDS-plus tips on a hammer drill with an SDS-max chuck using an adapter, and not vice versa!

When installing a more powerful drill in a mid- or small-class hammer drill (and corresponding adapters can be found on construction markets), you expose the power tool to severe overloads, which shortens its service life.

If a powerful drill gets jammed in a hole, the hammer drill may rotate around the tip, which will inevitably lead to injury.
For drilling various materials, a drill of the required configuration is inserted into the hammer drill.

Options for various drills for a hammer drill

Drilling concrete or granite with a conventional drill is tedious and overloads the tool. After the invention of the hammer drill, this process became available to the home craftsman.

For each type of hole there is a personal drill or crown. And the SDS chuck allows you to change the type of drill in one motion. By developing the capabilities of rotary hammers with SDS chucks, manufacturers are releasing more and more advanced working attachments.

There are types of work in which turning on and off the perforation mode during drilling is determined by technology.

For example, if you make a through hole in a thin plaster or concrete partition, then when the drill comes out with reverse side, the hammer drill knocks out large pieces of material. Before reaching the through hole a few centimeters, you can turn off the hammer drill mode and finish the work with simple drilling.

Some drills or bits are not designed for perforation at all. For them, only the drilling mode is allowed. For example, drills and drills for ceramic tiles. In contrast, jackhammer attachments operate in perforation mode without rotating the chuck axis.

There is a misconception that SDS chucks only work in rotary punch mode. The applications of these quick-release fasteners are much wider. For example, powerful rotary hammers with an SDS mechanism are used as mixers for stirring construction mixtures. They even sell SDS-plus attachments for stirring.

Or a jackhammer mode for knocking down old tiles. Rotating the cartridge is of no use here. Shock loads occur as normal; the main thing is to lubricate the tip well before installing it in the chuck.

A significant disadvantage of rotary hammers is dust formation and noise. For more comfortable work, various devices are available for removing dust from the work area. And the roar of the hammer drill became the talk of the town for the neighbors.

This video is about the difference in tool fastening in chucks of the SDS-plus, SDS-max and Spline Shank systems. The video is in English, but even without translation you can clearly see the difference.

Cartridges for rotary hammers: types, design, disassembly

When choosing a chuck for a hammer drill, the buyer must understand the design of such a clamping device. This will allow you to immediately resolve questions about which tool in the kit can be used with a hammer drill and what types of processing can be performed using such equipment. In addition, knowledge of the structure of the hammer drill chuck allows you not only to independently replace the clamping device, but also to carry out its simple repairs, if the need arises.

The hammer chuck designs have been specially designed to withstand the harsh operating conditions of the tool.

How do chucks for hammer drills work?

To effectively use different hammer drill bits, you need to ensure that they are securely attached. A special cartridge is used for this. Its first models began to be developed back in the 30s of the last century, when hammer drills appeared on the market, the mass production of which was mastered by the world famous company Bosch.

Such a manual device as a hammer drill was almost immediately appreciated by consumers, since it can be used to combine drilling with pulse chiselling, which significantly increases the efficiency of the processing performed. The main drawback of the first models of rotary hammers was precisely due to the fact that the weakest link in their design was the cartridge, which quickly became unusable under the influence of shock loads.

As a result of long-term development, manufacturers of hammer drills and chucks have come to the following conclusion: the simpler the design of the clamping device, the more reliable it is in operation.

Externally, the hammer drill chuck is a completely closed clamping device

As a result, three main types of cartridges for rotary hammers were created, which in turn are divided into subtypes.

There are chucks in which the working attachment is fixed using a special key that activates cams that securely clamp the shank of the tool being used. The most significant advantage of this type of chucks is that they provide reliable fastening of the tool used in conjunction with the hammer drill. Meanwhile, to replace the working tool in such a chuck for a hammer drill, you will need to spend significantly more time than when using other types of clamping devices.

Main types of hammer drill chucks

The working attachment of the hammer drill can also be fixed on it using a quick-release chuck (KLC), which is activated only by the force created by the operator’s hands. Depending on the design, cartridges of this type can be single- or double-clutch, the operating principles of which also differ.

Single-socket chucks are easier to use, but they can only be used in conjunction with drills that have the ability to automatically lock the working shaft. To activate such a cartridge, the effort of one hand is sufficient. To use a double clutch clamp, you need to hold the rear clutch with one hand and rotate the front clutch with the other.

What is SDS

SDS (SDS) is an acronym made up of the first letters of the words Steck, Dreh, Sitzt, which translated from German mean “insert, turn, secured.” It is on this simple, but at the same time ingenious principle that the SDS cartridge, developed by Bosch engineers in the 80s of the last century, works. Today, 90% of all manufactured rotary hammers are equipped with these easy-to-use devices, which ensure high reliability of fixing the working tool.

SDS chucks are often called quick-clamping chucks, but they should not be confused with devices in which clamping is achieved by rotating the couplings. Unlike traditional quick-release chucks, the SDS clamp does not need to be rotated to secure the tool; you just need to hold it with your hand.

To understand the structure of a hammer drill chuck of this type, as well as the principle of its operation, just look at the tool shank, which is designed to be fixed in such a device, or the SDS adapter. This shank has 4 grooves, two of which are open at the end of the shank, and the other two are closed. Open grooves act as guides; they ensure the correct position of the tool when it enters the chuck. The closed grooves, in turn, ensure the fixation of the shank in the hammer drill chuck.

Scheme of the impact mechanism of a rotary hammer

In the inner part of the SDS cartridge there are special balls that perform two functions simultaneously. At the moment when the tool is just inserted into the hammer drill, the balls along which the guide grooves move ensure its correct position. After the tool is inserted all the way, such balls fix it, for which it is necessary to turn it a little until the balls enter the closed grooves of the shank. To make using the SDS chuck even easier, it is recommended that the tool shank not only be thoroughly cleaned after each use, but also lubricated.

It should be borne in mind that due to the design features of SDS chucks, the tool that is fixed in them is subject to slight radial runout at idle, which does not in any way affect the accuracy of the processing performed. Meanwhile, the presence of a small play between the shank and the inner surface of the chuck protects the latter from the impact to which drills are exposed during the operation of the hammer drill.

To protect against contamination, all hammer drill chucks are equipped with rubber boots.

Types and scope of application of SDS cartridges

Depending on the diameter of the shank with which the tool or adapter is equipped for fixing it on the hammer drill, SDS chucks are divided into five main types: regular SDS chucks, models of the SDS-top, SDS-quick categories, as well as SDS-plus and SDS-chucks. max. The most popular are the SDS-plus category chucks, which are designed to hold tools with a shank diameter of 10 mm. The shank of the tool, adapted for fixing devices of the SDS-plus category, enters them to a depth of 40 mm. In this case, the diameter of the working part of the tool, which is fixed in SDS-plus chucks, can be in the range of 4–26 mm.

The maximum tool length that can be clamped in SDS-plus chucks is 1 meter, and its most common working diameters are in the range of 6–12 mm. Devices designed to hold SDS-plus shanks and corresponding adapters for rotary hammers in them are used to equip light and medium category equipment, the weight of which, excluding the weight of the tool, ranges from 3 to 5 kg. It is precisely these hammer drills, which are designed for impact loads of up to 5 J, that are most popular among home craftsmen and small repair teams.

Common types of SDS shanks

SDS-max chucks, with a bore diameter of 18 mm, are used to equip heavy professional rotary hammers, whose weight starts from 5 kg. Such hammer drills, which can be used in conjunction with tools with a working diameter of up to 6 mm, are able to create an impact load of up to 30 J. To ensure accurate and reliable fixation of the tool in such serious equipment, an additional guide groove is provided on shanks of the SDS-max category .

SDS-top and SDS-quick chucks are intermediate options for equipping rotary hammers and are used much less frequently than the models described above. Meanwhile, the design of SDS-quick devices, which were developed by Bosch engineers in 2008, is worth taking a closer look at. The tool is inserted into the SDS-quick series chucks not using grooves, but through protrusions on the shank. The design features of SDS-quick chucks allow them to hold tools with a hexagonal shank and a quarter-inch size.

The SDS-quick system is used in Bosch UNEO cordless hammer drills

How to disassemble and assemble a cartridge yourself

To perform maintenance and repair of a hammer drill chuck with your own hands, it is important to properly remove and disassemble this device. Knowing how to disassemble a hammer drill chuck (or how to disassemble a drill chuck), you will be able to independently inspect, clean and even make minor repairs to its internal elements, which will allow you to always maintain your tool in good technical condition. The simple design of SDS cartridges allows them to be removed and disassembled even by people who are not comfortable with technology.

So, disassembling the classic SDS hammer drill chuck is performed in the following sequence. Step one

The plastic part is removed from the cartridge and the rubber seal is removed.

Removing the hammer drill chuck. Photo 1

Using a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring and then the retaining washer.

Removing the hammer drill chuck. Photo 2

When the locking washer is removed, you can see a second ring underneath it, which also needs to be removed using a screwdriver.

Removing the hammer drill chuck. Photo 3

After all the rings and washers have been removed, you can begin to disassemble the SDS mechanism, which consists of a washer, a ball and a spring. First of all, it is necessary to remove the ball from such a mechanism, then the washer and only then the spring.

Removing the hammer drill chuck. Photo 4

All parts of the cartridge mechanism, if you perform maintenance, must be cleaned of dirt and dust, lubricated, and then reassembled in the reverse order.

To become even more familiar with the question of how to remove a chuck from a rotary hammer or drill, how to properly disassemble it, perform maintenance or minor repairs, you can study not only theoretical information, but also watch the corresponding video.

About attachments for rotary hammers

Theoretically, a tool with a shank for SDS-plus chucks and even a tool with an even smaller seat diameter can be installed on a hammer drill chuck of the SDS-max category. To solve this problem, a special attachment (adapter) is used, which today can be purchased on almost any construction market. Meanwhile, it is strictly not recommended to use such adapters for a rotary hammer, since using a tool of a smaller diameter on heavy-duty rotary hammers will quickly render it unusable.

As a rule, tools for rotary hammers are sold immediately in packages and cannot be restored after failure. However, it should not be confused with conventional drills, which differ from it in the shape of the sharpening and the structure of the spiral.

Keyless chuck [ 30 ]

A keyless chuck at an affordable price is the main advantage of our store, which sells only reliable and practical devices that are covered by a three-year quality guarantee.

Features and types of quick-release chucks

Modern electric or battery-powered equipment consists not only of a motor and a housing, but also of rotating elements that are designed to make holes or tighten screws. These parts consist of adapters, drills and chucks.

The latter come in varieties - key and quick-clamping. The first type is difficult to replace, but the second is fixed quickly and only one free hand will be enough for manipulation. That is why this spare part has gained such significant popularity among users of percussion instruments. At the same time, in the BZP cartridge category, it is customary to distinguish models intended for:

According to the principle of operation of this kind of cartridges, there are one- and two-clutch cartridges. The first type is used without a key and is mostly intended for installing conventional drills. The second option has a somewhat more complicated design, but in this case it is also possible to organize connection without a key, but you will need bits. To protect the device during transportation, it is packaged in special packaging. Therefore, there is no need to worry about the safety of the device or parcels transported next to it.

The secrets of our popularity

From us you can buy a keyless chuck at the best price in the country from a popular brand, also in the original, as well as other tools:

• Rechargeable;
• Pneumatic;
• Mechanical;
• Electric.

Your work needs to be simpler. And we are ready to provide this.

How to change the cartridge on a rotary hammer

For professionals in their field, replacing or repairing a hammer drill cartridge is not difficult. However, what should those who are not involved in construction and renovation at a professional level do? Since any man has held a drill in his hands at least once in his life, he should be aware of the process of removing and replacing its chuck. In this case, the reasons can be very different, from slow operation of the toothed rim to a major breakdown. How to change the cartridge on a rotary hammer? Let's look at the replacement in more detail.

How to remove a chuck from a hammer drill

At the first stage, it is worth determining which cartridge is used directly in your hammer drill. They come in cam, SDS collet and quick-clamping types. The latter, in turn, come in single- and double-sleeve versions. In a jaw chuck, the drill is secured with a key, which cannot be said about SDS collet and quick-release chucks. In order to replace the drill in the SDS collet chuck, you just need to turn it.

Replacing a chuck on a hammer drill begins with examining the fasteners. It can be held in place by a screw rod or a spindle. In most cases, removing the cartridge is not difficult. However, sometimes there is a stronger fixation, which will require patience and additional tools. In a simplified version, a firmly fixed cartridge is removed using a hammer, wrench and screwdriver. The removal process is as follows:

Tap the head of the screw to loosen it;

Unscrew using a screwdriver;

Clamping the chuck in a wrench/vice and turning the spindle.

The device of the hammer drill cartridge

Almost any construction tool is universal, and hammer drills are no exception. There are many different attachments, adapters, and cartridges for them. The basis for any type of work is the cartridge. The hammer drill adapter is used to install a drill bit that has been removed from a conventional drill. Nozzles and drills have a huge variety and are selected in accordance with the tasks.

Always keep a replacement hammer drill chuck at home, as one can fail at any time. It is also worth noting that it is preferable to use different cartridges for each type of work. The main types of cartridges include:

Quick-release: suitable for those who frequently change attachments during work;

Key: designed for large drills.

Hobbyists often wonder why so many types of cartridges are needed. Let us remember that there are rotary hammers with higher and lower power. If the tool is powerful, then you need to think about securely attaching the drill and attachments. A cartridge such as the SDS-max is designed for a deep landing, which means that the likelihood that the drill will fly off during operation is minimized. The same is with less powerful hammer drills, which are designed for “jewelry”; work. In this case, more emphasis is placed not on fixation, but on accuracy.

In order to know how to repair a hammer drill cartridge, you need to study its structure. But how does the hammer drill chuck work?

At one time, the drill was attached using movable cams, but progress does not stand still. In SDS, drills are fixed by 2 guide wedges and 2 locking balls. SDS-plus and SDS-max differ only in the number of guide wedges (the latter has 1 more). Thus, the fastening is very reliable and fast.

Fixing the attachment itself has also been simplified: you just need to insert the selected attachment into the cartridge socket, press lightly and wait for a click. Thus, the nozzle is well fixed. Removing the drill is also not particularly difficult: press the movable cover and the drill is removed.

Additionally, the hammer drill may include:

Speed ​​regulator;

Electronic reverse

Brush reverse;

Quick replacement system (quick-change chuck for rotary hammer);

Indicators (show the degree of wear of parts);

Anti-vibration system;

Friction clutch (protection against jamming).

How to disassemble a hammer drill chuck

When disassembling the cartridge, it is necessary to take into account the manufacturer, because disassembling the hammer drill cartridge will differ significantly. Today the list of the most popular includes:

Bosch hammer drill chuck;

Chuck for makita hammer drill;

Interskol rotary hammer chuck.

Let's look at disassembly using the example of a cartridge for a Bosch hammer drill:

1. The plastic part is moved aside and the rubber seal is removed.

2. Using a screwdriver, carefully remove the fixing ring.

4. Behind the puck we will see the second ring. It should be turned and removed, also prying it off with a screwdriver.

5. Behind the plastic part we see an SDS clamp, consisting of a spring, a ball and a washer. The ball is removed first, then the washer and spring.

The cartridge is disassembled for various purposes: repair, replacement of individual parts, cleaning, lubrication, etc. The chuck for a hammer drill from Makita and other manufacturers is disassembled in approximately the same way, with the exception of isolated nuances that are taken into account based on the design of the chuck.

After disassembling and doing everything that was planned for working with the parts of the cartridge, a logical question arises: how to assemble the hammer drill cartridge? Just follow the disassembly instructions, starting from the last step and ending with the first (do everything exactly the other way around).

How to replace a cartridge on a hammer drill

We already wrote above that not every cartridge is suitable for every drill. We also looked at the process of removing and even disassembling the cartridge. To install a new cartridge, follow these steps:

Screwing the chuck onto the drill (twist until it stops);

Insert the screw into the socket;

Tighten the screw using a screwdriver (also until it stops).

Take your choice of hammer drill chuck seriously. They come in a wide range of prices, but don't waste your money buying a chuck that may not be suitable for your drill. The ideal option would be to take the tool with you if it’s a market, or ask for help from a consultant if it’s an online store.

Articles on the topic

Hammer chuck - do-it-yourself repair

It's no secret that tools have different powers. For hammer drills with high power, a chuck with reliable fastening of a drill or drill is required.

In construction, there are key and quick-release chucks. In key ones, the attachment (drill, drill, cutter) must be fixed using a special key that spreads the fingers. In quick-clamping ones, the attachments will be fixed manually.

How to remove them from the hammer drill and do the repairs yourself? Many people ask about this.

To remove a collet or quick-release clamp from a power tool, simply turn the drill. You must learn how to disassemble a hammer drill chuck with your own hands.

If the attachment is firmly fixed, then removing the clamp from the power tool is very difficult, and sometimes almost impossible. How to remove the cartridge from the hammer drill in this case?

This must be done using a hammer, wrench and screwdriver. The disassembly process will be carried out in the following order:

1. Start by tapping the head of the screw to loosen it.
2. Then gradually begin to unscrew the nozzle using a screwdriver.
3. After unscrewing, clamp the cartridge in a vice and begin to turn the spindle.

If after removal you find that the cartridge has become unusable, then it must be replaced. To change the clamp on a hammer drill, perform the following manipulations:

1. Screw the chuck onto the drill until it stops.
2. Then insert the screw into the socket.
3. After insertion, gradually tighten the screw using a screwdriver until it stops.

Do not forget to disassemble and clean the hammer drill from time to time. This will help you avoid significant problems in the future. Also, sometimes there is a need to make minor repairs to the cartridge yourself, for example, replace a spring.

Switching hammer modes

For normal use of the tool, you must understand that there are several operating modes:

1. The first of them is drilling. When working in this mode, you must:

• switch the toggle switch for selecting hammer drill modes opposite the drill mark;
• then insert the drill bit and turn on the power tool.

If you don't know how to insert a drill into a hammer drill, then we will explain to you.

To install a drill in a cam or collet device, simply push the drill into it. Then insert the key into the special hole on the outer part of the chuck and scroll until the drill is fully clamped.

During operation, you do not need to press hard on the nozzle.

Advice. When using the chuck in drilling mode, never switch the toggle switch to “counterclockwise rotation,” as this may damage the attachment.

To prevent impacts, rotary hammers have a locking function. It is usually used when drilling holes in wood or metal structures.

It is advisable to let the hammer idle for a couple of minutes before inserting the drill into the hammer drill. Be sure to check the gearbox. It should not make extraneous noise or knock. Otherwise, have it repaired.

1. The next mode is called hammer drilling. How to operate a hammer drill in this mode? The answer is simple - with the drill and hammer toggle switch turned on.

During operation, carefully monitor the drill:

• it must not be distorted;
• During this mode, you should hold the hammer firmly, but not pressing too hard.

Remember that when drilling concrete you may stumble upon pieces of reinforcement, so take a comfortable position in advance so as not to lose control of the tool.

1. The last variation is the impact mode. Typically, it is used for chiseling or chipping operations. Sometimes it is used for gating.

Before starting work, switch the hammer drill toggle switch to the mark with the image of a hammer. Remember that in this mode the tool must be held very firmly.

Advice. Before turning on the power tool, move it to the desired location for impact.

How to use a hammer drill correctly

Video about working with a hammer drill

To operate a power tool correctly, you must remember the following techniques:

1. Be sure to use the funds personal protection. Namely: glasses, gloves, earplugs. Immediately before work, remove all foreign objects that could become entangled in the drill.
2. Do not press too hard on the instrument, otherwise you may damage it.
3. Don't forget how to use a hammer drill correctly. Do not “drive” it idle for more than 4-5 minutes. In this case, you expose the chuck mechanisms to a lot of wear.
4. If you are working with porous or loose materials, it will be more reliable to work in hammerless drilling mode.
5. If you are drilling with materials that have high hardness, use a special lubricant or machine oil.
6. Don't forget about liquid cooling if you're working with hard materials. All kinds of emulsions or grease can be used as liquids.
7. If you are working with long drills, in order to save money, start working with shorter drills of the same diameter.
8. To prevent the tool from needing repair, be sure to lubricate the drill shanks with thick grease every 100-150 holes. But do not forget about pre-cleaning them from dust and dirt. Experts recommend using grease as a lubricant.
9. Let the hammer cool down periodically. Sometimes dip the drills in water or oil.
10. When working, pay special attention to ensure that the gearbox is not overheated. If you notice heating, take a short break from work. However, you should not put the power tool in water - it will give you an electric shock.
11. Don't forget how to use a hammer drill. Take care of your hammer drill before and after use. Remember that the life of the instrument depends on the quality of care. Clean construction dust from power tools using a vacuum cleaner. To protect the drill, you can put a special shield on it, which can even be made from plastic bottle. Be sure to follow the operating and rest schedule of the tool. It is advisable to take a 10 minute break after every half hour of work.
12. Keep a close eye on the hammer drill vent.
13. Once a month, disassemble the hammer drill and perform a preventive inspection of the gearbox.

We have addressed the main questions asked by readers. We hope our tips will help you understand how to repair a hammer drill yourself.

Attention, TODAY only!

Even women know what a drill is. In order to connect the drill itself with drills and various attachments that make the drill a universal tool, a chuck was invented. At first, when the drill itself was mechanical, the chuck for it existed in the form of a cylinder with a wheel for adjustment. Then they added an adjusting sleeve. Nowadays it is a collet chuck and usually consists of three jaws and a bushing, which is made of hardened metal. The jaw chuck comes in the following types: key chuck, gear chuck and keyless chuck for drill.

If the chuck is of high quality and unbroken, then the range of drills that can hold is from 1 mm to 25 mm. The cost of a good cartridge is not small.

Now widely used, which do not need a key.

Keyless chuck

It is very convenient, the drill can be changed in literally 10 seconds. Simply press with your hand, the mechanism loosens and the drill or bit can be removed from the chuck. And vice versa, we changed the drill and tightened the chuck with force. The work occurs due to the corrugation on the sleeve and the spindle, which produces the blocking itself.

Of course, every detail has its downsides. For example, if the chuck lasts a long time, the fixation of large-diameter drills will not be of good quality, and turning will begin. This is mainly typical for drills with a round shank. Before you buy a chuck, you need to know the bore diameter that the drill has.

The key cartridge is more reliable in this regard. If you decide to use key patron, which is clamped with a special key, the problem arises with the need to constantly keep the key with you, or, in extreme cases, tie it to a drill with a string. Otherwise, the work process may stop.

Using a keyless chuck in an impact drill

Rotary hammer or impact drill

An impact drill is often confused with a hammer drill. But it also consists in the purpose of the instrument. An impact drill is designed for drilling both materials with low density, such as wood, aluminum, copper, plastic, and hard materials, such as concrete or brick. For drilling hard materials, the pressure force should not be less than 10 kg.

A hammer drill is a tool for chiselling and can be used to perform very great view various operations, such as driving bolts into the wall, chiselling walls, removing old plaster and tiles, laying grooves for electrical wiring and punching holes for sockets. And it usually has three functions: drilling, hammer drilling and impact function. In addition, the hammer drill must not be pressed; the maximum pressure should be no more than 5 kg.

Rotary hammer or impact drill

A drill and a hammer drill have a difference in design, and the drill is simpler, since it has only two functions: drilling and drilling with impact. But with additional accessories and attachments, an impact drill can be a fairly versatile tool, for example, used as a mixer for working mixtures, grinding various surfaces, plucking poultry, sharpening drills and much more. It can also be used for its intended purpose - drilling holes.

Tools also differ in weight: impact drills no more than 4 kg, rotary hammers from 2 to 8 kg. And they differ significantly in price, the drill is much cheaper.

Using a keyless chuck in a drill

Like every household power tool, the drill has parts that wear out and must be replaced during use. The quick-release chuck is, of course, very convenient, but, unfortunately, it sometimes has to be changed because the chuck wears out and rotates during long-term use. The cartridge is removed and installed using the thread, and it must be taken into account that the thread on the screw is always left-handed. Therefore, when the cartridge is removed, this point must be taken into account. Then there are models with a screw, then it is unscrewed clockwise, and there are models where the cartridge is unscrewed directly from the shaft. Next, the cartridge purchased in advance for replacement is put on in the same sequence.

To buy a quick-release chuck for a drill, you need to take into account that the connections vary not only in diameter, but also in type. There are conical and threaded connections. The conical cartridge is simply mounted, and the threaded cartridge, which comes in two types, is changed, as described above. A keyless chuck is very often installed on MAKITA drills.

MAKITA is currently the most widespread brand of household and professional power tools. This was facilitated by vast experience, professionalism and quality of the instrument. In addition, if we compare three companies such as BOSCH, MAKITA, DEVOLT with almost the same quality of tools, MAKITA has the most low price.

Makita keyless drill chuck

This company has a lot service centers in Russia, and it’s not difficult to buy spare parts for her tools. Therefore, you can buy a quick-release chuck for a MAKITA drill at any authorized center. Of course you can buy this one spare part and in any other place, but since the instrument is very common, it is often counterfeited. Spare parts for it are also counterfeited.

Makita drill chucks

Such chucks are also used for MAKITA impact drills and screwdrivers. They are used for clamping drills and bits with a cylindrical shank. For different models, there is a different price for a quick-release drill chuck, and it ranges from 1,100 rubles to 2,350 rubles per unit. These are mainly cartridges for diameters from 1 to 10 mm.

When choosing, you need to clarify for which models such a cartridge is suitable. For example, let’s take the following chuck: Makita quick-release chuck (193616-9). In the model specifications we read that it is suitable for tools such as 6316D, 6317D, 6336D, 6337D, 6347D, if the chuck model is 192016-0, it is suitable for 6408/6410/6075D/6095D/DA312D/DA392D. Then we compare it with our instrument and, if it fits, we buy it. There is a very wide range of cartridges available. The company specializes mainly in such drill diameters, but produces the most different equipment. Certainly,

Keyless chuck for drill 13 mm

The BOSCH company produces many electric impact drills with a chuck designed for a larger diameter than 10 mm. The chuck can clamp a shank from 1 to 13 mm in diameter (this is more common) and up to 16 mm (this is less common). Therefore, you should always pay attention, as mentioned above, to the fit size. It is designated ½", ¼", 3/8″ and 5/8″. These numbers are in the technical data sheet for the product. You also need to pay attention to whether the characteristics indicate that the chuck is suitable for an impact drill, since the chuck must be designed for such a load.

The presence of a reverse function is also very important; it’s a pity that it is not available for all cartridges. If you need to buy a keyless chuck for your 13mm drill, you need to consider these factors. Such cartridges are also used for tools from Russian manufacturers, for example, PRACTIKA or Profostnastka.

Of course, the price of cartridges varies. If BOSCH is sold at a price of mainly 2000 - 2700 rubles per unit, there are also 4000 rubles for professional hammer drills, then a similar cartridge for a Russian tool will cost no more than 400 rubles. But if you just read independent customer reviews about the PRACTIKA tool and the BOSCH tool, as well as about replacement cartridges, the difference in prices will immediately become clear.

Some bought it for the home, some for work in the garage, some for work in a team, but they wrote about their experiences, both negative and positive.