How to remove a threaded chuck from a drill, methods for attaching chucks. How to disassemble a drill: ways to replace cartridges How to remove a cartridge from a Soviet drill

What repair would be complete without a good drill and a set of drill bits! However, even the most reliable tool can jam during operation. Don't rush to panic! We will teach you how to change the drill bit in a drill and correctly diagnose other breakdowns.

Drill design - what do you need to know about the tool?

Every tool owner has had a jamming of a drill in a drill or screwdriver chuck at least once. To understand why this can happen, you need to understand how the drill works. This tool converts electrical energy into a mechanical one, which is possible thanks to an electric motor that spins the shaft. Through the gearbox and gears, rotation is transmitted to the fastener, in which the drill is fixed.

In addition to jamming, a loosely fixed drill can jump out of the fastener, and this is already fraught with quite severe injuries for the person working with the tool and others, given the speed of rotation modern devices. Therefore, never fasten the drill in a hurry; always disconnect the drill from the current to avoid accidental starting of the drill.

Fastening device – non-combat cartridge

The chuck is the fastener in which the drill is fixed. The fastener itself is screwed onto the tool spindle. Most often, drills are equipped with a jaw chuck. This design is a hollow cylinder with metal “fingers” inside. When you turn the adjusting ring, which is located outside the assembly, the “fingers” converge or diverge along the inner cone-shaped surface. In such a “fist” you can clamp both a drill with a cylindrical shank and a hexagonal one.

Convenience and ease of use have made the cam mechanism popular. However, it is not without its drawbacks. One of them is the difficulty of working with small drills. Short product may simply fall inside. You can still secure it by placing the drill in a horizontal position, but you can’t put too much pressure on it while working. If another drill was inserted into the drill, you can remove it by turning the adjusting ring in the appropriate direction. It is not always possible to do this manually; for this purpose there is a special key that acts like a lever, increasing the force. By the way, it is also not recommended to tighten the drill without a key - the larger the diameter of the drill, the more reliable the fastening should be.

When purchasing fasteners, make sure that they are rubberized - this way you will be less likely to injure your hands when securing the tool.

The quick-release fastener, the second most popular, can be operated without a key. Simply insert the drill and turn the lever; this can often be done with one hand. The drill fixation that this type of chuck provides is quite sufficient for most jobs, however, compared to classic version fastenings it is inferior in reliability, and it costs more. The main advantage of a quick-release fastener is the speed of drill replacement and the safety of the process, since such a chuck is devoid of teeth that can injure your hands. The absence of a specialized key is also a significant advantage! Experienced builders know how easily it gets lost, so very often you can see a key taped to a wire with tape or tape.

True, this does not add convenience, but there is at least some confidence that you won’t have to look for the key throughout the construction site. How to change the drill bit in a screwdriver? The scheme is absolutely identical - the chucks of most drills are similar to the fasteners on screwdrivers. Of course, the latter tool cannot be a full-fledged replacement for a high-quality drill, if only because the fasteners are not provided for drills with a large diameter, and the speed of a screwdriver is usually lower.

How to change a drill bit in a drill - we can do it ourselves!

It is not always possible to remove the drill from the chuck in the usual way– as a result of heavy load or improper fixation, it can jam the cartridge. How to get a drill out of a drill without damaging the fastener and the tool itself? First of all, try to cool the cartridge thoroughly. Sometimes this is enough for the cams to release the drill a little and you can pull it out.

The most proven method for removing a stuck tool is to tap the cams.. To do this, the free end of the drill is fixed in a vice, a wooden strip is applied to the chuck, through which tapping is carried out. This vibration can cause the chuck to loosen its grip and release the tool. This method will be useful for both owners of classic fasteners and owners of quick-release fasteners. Sometimes removal becomes possible after lubricating the drill with machine oil or the popular WD-40 lubricant.

The latter method is better, because thanks to the spray, the substance will quickly reach the desired points of contact between the drill and the chuck. In any case, after lubricating you will need to wait a little for the substance to penetrate deeper. Sometimes, especially difficult cases, the problem is solved only after dipping the entire cartridge into machine or vegetable oil. If neither one nor the other is at hand, you can make a “bath” for your drill from gasoline. You need to keep the cartridge in the liquid for at least an hour. By combining methods, you will be able to remove a jammed drill even faster.

How to replace the chuck - updating the drill

Most often, the cartridge is the first to become unusable in a drill. Dismantling it at home is not easy, but it is possible! The fastener is screwed onto the spindle itself, but in addition it is also secured with a bolt with a left-hand thread. In order to get it, you need to completely open the cartridge - it is inside. The whole difficulty of unscrewing it lies in the fact that many do not know about the left-hand thread, and when trying to unscrew it, they twist it even more, tear off the cap and eventually take it to the service center.

By unscrewing the bolt, you can also unscrew the cartridge itself, although this is not so easy to do. Some models have recesses at the base of the thread for a wrench - in this case, you can fix the spindle and unscrew the fasteners using a lot of force. The real difficulty comes when there are no wrench cuts. You will have to remove the housing cover to secure the spindle inside the drill. Difficult, but doable.

Removing a cartridge is one thing. Finding a new one is a completely different matter. In addition to the methods for clamping the drill, which are described above, different cartridges also different carvings! The surest way not to confuse anything is to take an old cartridge with you and demonstrate it to the seller, or choose the right one based on the layout. When you have completed this task, all that remains for you is to screw the chuck onto the spindle and screw in the bolt, which in our case is screwed counterclockwise.

Among home craftsmen, the most common types of drill chucks are key (gear-toothed) and quick-clamping (BZP). We will try to analyze the operating features of these particular cartridges in this article and comprehensively cover all the main nuances and difficulties of working with them.

The most common ones for household drills and screwdrivers are toothed and quick-release chucks

Main types of drill chucks

According to their design, they are divided into two main types:

a toothed chuck, in which the tool shank is clamped using a special key;
a quick-release chuck for a drill (KZP), in which the clamping sleeve is actuated by manual rotation.

Clamping jaw chucks installed on modern drills allow you to securely fix tools whose shank diameter is in the range of 1–25 mm. Devices of this type are practically devoid of disadvantages, the most significant of which is their fairly high cost.

The most popular type of clamping device installed on modern models drills, is a quick-release chuck (BZP). It only takes a few seconds to lock a tool into a BZP chuck, and there is no need to use a special key. The tool shank is clamped by manual rotation of the adjusting sleeve, the outer surface of which is knurled to facilitate this procedure. To regulate the mechanical force created on the tool shank, this type of clamp is equipped with a special locking device.

The most significant disadvantages of the BZP include the fact that in cases where the elements of its mechanism wear out, it does not reliably fix the shanks of large-diameter drills. This leads to the tool turning during operation.

Compared to clamping devices of the BZP category, toothed chucks for equipping drills provide reliable fixation of the tool in any situation. Users who frequently work with electric drills prefer this type of chuck. The only significant drawback of such devices is that the key with which they are activated is quite easy to lose. Meanwhile, the occurrence of such a problem can be easily avoided if, immediately after purchasing a drill, you fix the key on the device’s wire using insulating tape or ordinary rope.

The mini-drill chuck, installed on compact drilling devices, is also very popular. The latter are actively used by jewelry craftsmen. The mini chuck belongs to the category of quick-release chucks for a screwdriver or light drill. This small chuck, made primarily of brass, is used to hold tools with a shank diameter in the range of 0.1–4.5 mm.

Design and features of the toothed chuck

The classic drill chuck is a collet or cam type clamping device. They can hold not only various tools with a round shank, but also cylindrical workpieces for further processing. The main design elements of jaw chucks are:

cylindrical body;
an adjusting ring or sleeve rotating on the outer surface of the housing;
a cam mechanism or collet installed in the inside of the device body.

Design of a jaw (gear-ring) chuck with a key

In turn, the collet mechanism, the elements of which are made of hardened steel, consists of three absolutely identical cams, which, when rotating the adjusting ring or sleeve, simultaneously approach each other, thereby ensuring reliable clamping of the tool shank. In the first models of chucks for mechanical drills, the collet jaws converged due to the rotation of the adjusting wheel; now an adjusting sleeve is used for this.

On one side, the drill chucks are installed on the shaft of the equipment used, and on the other, the tool with which the processing will be performed is inserted into them. Jaw chucks are primarily used to hold the following tools:

drill;
cutters;
taps with small diameter shanks.

How to remove a cartridge with a threaded connection

The question of how to remove the chuck from a drill, which is fixed to it using a threaded connection, arises among home craftsmen quite often. Such a clamp must be removed taking into account the fact that it is installed using a non-standard left-hand thread.

The threaded element of the clamping device is located in its internal part, so you must first move the clamping jaws as far apart as possible, which will provide access to the fixing screw, which can be unscrewed using a regular Phillips screwdriver. In drills without such a screw, the chuck is simply twisted off the shaft without carrying out the above-described preparatory work.

The head of the fixing screw can be Phillips, slotted, hexagonal or even star-shaped.

A screw with a left-hand thread, with which it is fixed to the drill threaded chuck, may wear out over time. To restore the reliability of such a connection, you can do the following:

insert a Phillips screwdriver into the head of the chuck screw on the drill;
Lightly tap the hammer to deepen the screw into the threaded hole.

Such actions will not harm the drill’s mounting unit, but will allow the clamping device to be fixed to it more accurately and reliably.

Replacing a threaded chuck on a drill can also be done using a 14mm wrench, which greatly simplifies this process. In order to avoid making mistakes when you decide to disassemble a cartridge of this type, you can first familiarize yourself with the theoretical material on this topic and watch the corresponding video.

Replacing and disassembling the chuck on a drill

There is nothing complicated about the question of how to replace a worn-out cartridge in a drill. To do this, it is enough to purchase the appropriate clamping device, remove the old one from the drill and install a new one on it. It should be borne in mind that two types of chucks can be installed on both a regular and a mini drill:

with cone connection;
with thread.

The chucks, which are threaded for installation on a drill, are removed and fixed according to the scheme described above. When replacing such a device, it is not enough to know that it is threaded; it is also important to take into account the markings that are necessarily applied to it. Such chucks may be marked as follows:

1.5–13 M12x1.25;
1.5–13 1/2 – 20UNF.

The interval 1.5–13 present in the designation data indicates the minimum and maximum diameters of the cutting tool being installed. The rules for replacing a chuck on a drill suggest that the new clamping device must have a marking that is completely identical to the designation of the old one.

With the question of how to replace a cone chuck on a drill, everything is somewhat simpler. Devices of this type can also be marked with various markings, namely:

To replace a chuck of this type with a drill, you simply need to select a clamping device with the appropriate marking and insert its seat into the conical hole of the drilling equipment. It is quite simple to navigate this marking: the letter “B” means that this is a cone-type cartridge, and the number indicates the diameter of the lower part of the mounting hole.

Removing a cone-type chuck from a drill is as easy as installing it. In order to perform this procedure, you simply need to knock out the clamping device from the mounting hole of the drill, for which you use a regular hammer. With details of installing and removing the cone chuck electric drill You can also get acquainted by watching the corresponding video.

Home craftsmen most often use two types of chucks for electric drills: key and quick-release. The chuck is one of the main components of the drill mechanism. Through it, rotational motion is transmitted to the working tool from the electric motor. The clamp also secures the drill so that during the drilling process maximum accuracy and reliable fastening are ensured and quick replacement of the chuck on the drill is possible.

During prolonged use, the tool may malfunction. Therefore, you need to be able to remove the chuck from the drill and change it before starting work. With such knowledge, even a beginner will not be confused. If problems suddenly arise with the keyless chuck, he will be able to unscrew it and replace it.

Main types of clamps

There are two main types of drill clamps:

Tooth-crown. The shank is clamped with a special key.
Quick-clamping. The clamping sleeve is actuated by manual rotation.

Jaw chucks, which are installed on modern drills, allow reliable fixation of devices with a shank diameter of 1-25 mm. This type of device has virtually no disadvantages, the most significant of which is the rather high price.

The most popular clamping device installed on modern drills is the BZP, that is, the quick-release chuck. It takes a few seconds to fix the tool in the BZP, and a special key is not needed. The shank is clamped by manual rotation of the adjusting sleeve, on the outer surface of which there is a groove that facilitates screwing. To adjust the mechanical impact on the tool shank, this type of clamp is equipped with a locking device.

Serious disadvantages of BZP include:

Rapid wear of its elements.
Insufficiently reliable fixation of the shanks of drills with large diameters, as a result of which the tool rotates during operation.

But gear-rim products ensure reliable fixation. The only significant disadvantage of these devices is that they require a key, which is easy to lose. However, you can save yourself from this problem by securing this part to the drill wire with insulating tape or rope.

A very popular mini-drill clamp, which is installed on compact drilling devices. Mini drills are preferred by jewelers. The mini chuck is included in the quick-release chuck category. It is made mainly of brass and is used for fixing tools with a shank diameter of 0.1−4.5 mm.

Gear-crown

Classic, refers to cam or collet type clamping devices. They clamp tools with a round shank and cylindrical workpieces for further processing. The main elements of jaw clamps are as follows:

Cylindrical body.
An adjusting ring or sleeve that rotates on the outer surface of the housing.
A collet or cam mechanism in the interior of the housing.

Material for manufacturing elements collet mechanism The material is made of hardened steel, and the mechanism consists of three identical cams that move closer to each other when the sleeve or adjusting ring rotates, ensuring reliable clamping of the shank. In the first models, the cams converged due to the rotation of the adjusting wheel, but now this role belongs to the adjusting sleeve.

The clamps on one side are installed on the drill shaft, and on the other side a tool is inserted into them, with the help of which the work is performed. Jaw chucks mainly are used to fix in them:

cutters;
drill;
taps with small diameter shanks.

How to disassemble the cartridge

Clamp with threaded connection removed taking into account the left-hand thread.

The threaded element is located in the internal part of the device, and therefore the clamping jaws are first moved as far apart as possible, thereby providing access to the fixing screw, which can be unscrewed with a regular Phillips screwdriver. In drills without this screw, the chuck is twisted from the shaft without the preparatory work described above.

The left-hand thread screw that secures the threaded chuck may wear out later. To restore connection reliability, it is recommended to do the following:

insert a Phillips screwdriver into the head of the clamp screw;
Using a hammer, lightly press the screw into the threaded hole.

These actions will not lead to damage to the drill fastening unit and will allow you to fix the clamping device on it more accurately and reliably.

Replacing the threaded cartridge can be done using a 14mm wrench. To avoid making mistakes, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the theoretical material and watch the corresponding video.

To replace a worn cartridge The old clamping device is removed from the drill and a new one is installed. Both regular and mini drills are equipped with chucks with threads and a cone connection.

When replacing threaded drills, it is important to take into account the markings, which look like this:

1.5−13 M 12×1.25;
1.5−13 ½ - 20 UNF.

The interval 1.5−13 indicates the minimum and maximum diameters of the cutting tool. The new clamping device must have identical markings to the previous one.

Cone connection

In the case of a cone chuck replacement is easier. Devices of this type may have the following markings: B 10; At 12; At 16; At 18.

The drill kit includes a special device for removing cartridges, however, experienced craftsmen simply turn the drill down with the drill, secure it and, applying uniform blows with a hammer on the back side, knock it out of the shaft.

After dismantling, the conical surfaces are sanded with emery cloth. If there are burrs on the surface, they are removed with a file. The new cartridge is installed in place by blows with a mallet, sitting tightly at the joint.

To remove a drill or other bit which is jammed in the chuck requires skill and experience in handling bench tools. If the clamp fails, it is replaced.

If you are interested in how to remove the chuck from an Interskol drill, read the information below. The clamp has an inch right-hand thread, but thanks to the reverse it is possible to fix it inside the product with a screw with a left-hand thread. The cams are moved apart, a Phillips screwdriver is inserted, and the screw with the left-hand thread is unscrewed. Since they are tightened too much, problems may occur. Don't tear off the splines! Then try to unscrew it with a gas wrench, but with the gearbox switched to low speed.

Problems with the clamping mechanism

Before starting work, read the instructions for using the tool. This will help avoid many problems. Remember that the drill is not used for routing as the clamp cannot withstand such side load. Select the correct drill, pay attention to its sharpening, mark the center of the drill (using a core).

Sometimes when dismantling the clamp gets stuck. If so, the device is disassembled and completely cleaned and lubricated. This happens especially often after drilling holes in the ceiling, as debris spills into the clamp. If the clamp comes off, increase the tension in the cone joint. To do this, the unit is heated to 110º in the oven and then installed on a cold seat. There may also be beating that occurs due to uneven destruction of the cams or wear of the cone base. Here you need to replace the elements.

When disassembling the clamp, consider its type. After completing the required procedures, reassemble in the reverse order.

One of the most common breakdowns in a drill is a malfunction of the chuck holding the drill. The faulty cartridge must be removed and inspected. Having become familiar with the mechanism and principle of operation of the cartridge, everyone will be able to independently decide on future fate parts - change or repair the cartridge. What types of cartridges are there? How are they built? How to remove the old cartridge, how to install a new one? What measures should be taken to repair the cartridge.

What is the function of the chuck in a drill?

The drill chuck is one of the main components of the electric drill mechanism. It serves to transmit rotational motion from the electric motor to the working tool. Its task also includes fixing the drill in such a way that during operation the maximum accuracy of drilling holes, reliable fastening and quick replacement of the tool are observed.

Types of fastenings

Engineers have come up with various design solutions for fixing cartridges. Depending on the method of attachment to the rotating shaft, cartridges are:

threaded - the cartridge is screwed onto the shaft thread;
conical - a cartridge with a conical shank is inserted into a mating socket and held by friction;
collet - the cartridge is put on the shaft and secured with a screw.

Photo gallery: types of tool mounts

Methods for fixing the working tool

All chucks clamp the tool between the jaws (jaws). Three cams evenly approach each other, the tool is fixed strictly along the axis of rotation. According to the method of fixing the drill, chucks are divided into:

quick-clamping The master tightens the cartridge by hand;
self-clamping. The chuck is equipped with a ratcheting wheel that prevents the drill from spinning;
SDS+ and SDS-max cartridges. The chucks do not have cams; the drill is inserted into a special socket and fixed. Such chucks were developed by Bosch and are used in rotary hammers and powerful drills. The tool will never fall out of the mount.

Video: what is the difference between the quick-clamping method of fastening and the self-clamping method?

Replacing and repairing a drill chuck

Symptoms of a problem

Most common external signs cartridge malfunction:

the cartridge body flies off the gearbox shaft or the axis of rotation randomly shifts during operation;
the chuck jaws jam or fall out of the body;
The drill is not clamped in the chuck or cannot be removed from it.

In such cases, continuing to work with a drill becomes not only impossible, but also dangerous. It is necessary to find out the cause of the problem and eliminate it.

If for some reason the cartridge becomes unusable during operation, it should be replaced or repaired. You cannot operate a drill with a broken chuck.

How to change a part?

Threaded fastening of the cartridge to the gearbox shaft is carried out using threads with a short pitch and additional control fixation with a screw with reverse (left-hand thread) in the outer end of the shaft.

Since when switching speeds and modes, the chuck rotates in both directions, rigid fixation of its working position is provided.

To do this, when assembling the tool for all threaded connections Additionally, a sealant is applied, which, when dried, acts as an adhesive layer.

This should always be kept in mind when assembling and disassembling the electric drill. When repairing a cartridge, it is most advisable to use silicone-based sealants - this will allow you to carry out routine repairs with the least effort, and will also protect the metal from corrosion and oxidation when exposed to moisture.

In order to disconnect the cartridge from the rotation mechanism, you must:

Open the jaw clamps inside the chuck as far as possible to gain access to the control fastening screw.
Unscrew the fastening screw. As a rule, the slots of this screw are cross-shaped. Therefore, you should use a screwdriver of the appropriate configuration. Often during operation, under the influence of centrifugal forces, this screw is tightened in the seat beyond measure. Then you have to use considerable force to unscrew it from the socket.

You can use a mechanical impact screwdriver, but be very careful. If the splines on the screw are damaged, removing the cartridge will become much more difficult and you will have to change not only the cartridge, but also the gearbox shaft. Among other things, such “jamming” indicates that during the previous assembly no sealant was applied or it was not given time to dry.

With the help rotational movements counterclockwise, unscrew the chuck body from the thread of the working shaft. To do this, you need to keep the shaft from rotating. This can be achieved in several ways:

Hold the shaft with one hand using an adjustable wrench and unscrew the chuck with the other.
Remove the gearbox housing and hold the gears with your hand from turning.

Video: how to easily remove a drill or screwdriver chuck

In some models, the shaft to which the chuck is attached has special grooves for an open-end wrench. In this case, unscrewing the cartridge is much easier. It is enough to insert the key into this groove and lock it in a stationary position.

If the chuck mount on the drill is conical, then the procedure for disassembling changes as follows:

Unscrew the fastening screw inside the cartridge.
Secure the drill body in a vertical position (for example, using a vice), so that the chuck is at the bottom.
Using an open-end wrench as a spacer, use a wooden or rubber mallet to knock the cartridge body out of its seat.

Strikes must be struck with caution so as not to damage the cartridge body and its structural elements.

Fastening the cartridge to the shaft after repair or replacement is carried out in the reverse order. When assembling, you need to pay attention to the degree of rigidity of the fit of the conical recess in the body of the cartridge onto the conical end of the leading element, as well as their axial relative position. The control screw inside the chuck can only be tightened if it is firmly seated and the longitudinal axes are completely aligned.

A silicone-based sealant is used to secure the internal control screw. It is not recommended to start working immediately after assembly. The sealant should dry and lock the screw in the desired position. The drying speed of the sealant is usually written on the packaging. Most often this is approximately 1 mm per day, but since the thread pitch is usually fractions of a millimeter, it is enough to wait 10–12 hours until it dries completely.

There are cases when, after repairing and fitting the chuck onto the conical spindle of the drive shaft, the chuck begins to beat and vibrate during operation. This indicates that errors were made during assembly. You will have to disassemble the entire assembly again and seat the cartridge again. Experienced craftsmen advise in such a situation to heat the cartridge to a temperature of 100–110 degrees. This heating can be achieved by dipping the cartridge body in boiling water for several minutes.

When heated, metal tends to expand noticeably. The conical hole of the cartridge will increase and, as it cools, it will sit better on the shaft spindle. In modern household appliances cone cartridges are used less and less often. This is due to the fact that they have been supplanted by more convenient to use cartridges that are mounted on a thread.

Collet chucks are also not used in household appliances. Their area of “habitat” is high-precision drilling work with thin and ultra-thin tools.

When going to the store for a new cartridge, take the old part with you. When selecting a cartridge, not only the diameter of the thread is important, but also the direction of its cutting - right or left.

How to disassemble the cartridge?

After disconnecting the cartridge from the rotation shaft, the question of disassembly and repair arises. It should be noted that undertaking such repairs at home is not always justified. You may need special keys and accessories that not everyone has. In addition, many manufacturers specifically make their products non-separable. Products made of molded plastic and expanded metal cannot be disassembled and assembled without changing the properties of the materials. Maintaining dynamic characteristics is completely unlikely.

Video: Repairing a keyless chuck

If the chuck is dismountable, such as jaw chucks with a key and quick-release chucks, then repairs should only be started in compliance with all personal safety measures, in well-lit and equipped rooms. After directly disassembling the cartridge and diagnosing the problem, you should replace the damaged part and reassemble everything in the reverse order.

Some craftsmen recommend lubricating the internal mechanisms of the cartridge with heavy lubricants (such as Litol or Graphite) during repairs. However, this is strictly forbidden, since during operation, dust and chips generated during drilling will stick to the lubricant. Having accumulated on the internal cavities of the mechanism, they will cause damage to the threads and other rubbing parts.

The only exception is the SDS cartridge, in which the lubricant is incorporated technologically, based on its design features.

Common problems and ways to solve them

The chuck vibrates or flies off the spindle axis

The most common problem is related to the unstable position of the cartridge body. If the chuck begins to vibrate during operation or flies off the spindle axis, this means that it needs to be urgently repaired.

First of all, it is necessary to find out the reason for the cartridge jumping off the shaft. Most likely, it will be the wear of the fastening screw inside the cartridge. From frequent sharp impacts or lateral loads, the head of this screw may break off. And then the cartridge can be easily unscrewed during operation, especially if you hold it with your hand.

The best solution to the problem is to replace the cartridge with a new one, but it is also possible to replace only the control screw. To do this, you need to completely disassemble the cartridge, and then try to drill out the broken bolt and replace it with a new one. It's not always as easy as it seems.

Clamping jaws jam

The second common problem with the chuck is jamming of the clamping jaws. Most often this happens when drills whose diameter exceeds the recommended one are inserted into the chuck. Or when during repairs, the working part of the cams is generously lubricated with lubricant. Over time, dust and debris that get inside the cartridge are cemented with a lubricant and break the thread rims or jam the movement of the cams themselves.

This can be corrected by disassembling the cartridge and thoroughly cleaning the jaws from accumulated debris. If the threads inside the mechanism are intact, the cartridge can be assembled and used for a long time.

Many experienced craftsmen, when drilling in particularly dusty conditions, protect the chuck from debris by placing half a tennis ball on the drill.

The long life of a tool depends on its proper use and regular maintenance. If the tool is broken, you cannot work with it. This is especially true for household electric drills with chucks - a flying drill can cause injury. A DIYer can easily remove a faulty cartridge and install a new one. Cartridges for household appliances are not always repairable, so it is recommended to scrap them or contact a professional.

An electric drill is an indispensable tool attribute of both the home craftsman and the professional. Without this tool, it is difficult to carry out any work related to the production of something, as well as installation, dismantling, and so on.

Breakdown of a drill, even of a famous brand, eventually happens. And one of the most common failures of this power tool is the failure of the chuck: both the key and the self-clamping one.

Sooner or later, any part, assembly or any mechanism becomes unusable.

In modern drills, such as Makita, Interskol, Bosch, and so on, the drill and other cutting tools, as well as all kinds of attachments, are fastened using a cam-type device . The cam mechanism consists of 3 or 4 cams, through which the tool is held in the drill chuck. If the device is quick-clamping, then the mechanism is tightened by hand, and if it is a key device, it is tightened with a special key.

There are also collet devices, but they are more applicable in metalworking production. They hold all kinds of tools needed for work.

Reasons for replacement:

Runout during rotation. This indicates wear on the cams or front shaft bearings.
Rotation on the shaft. The reason is damage to the thread, if the chuck is threaded, or wear of the tool cone.

In both cases it needs to be replaced.

Beating is a harmful and unsafe phenomenon, it can be characterized as follows:

The cutting tool or any equipment does not hold well in the drill.
Drills jam (in the case when the cone is worn out).
The holes are of irregular shape.
The drill shanks wear out.

How to remove a chuck from an electric drill

The chuck can be attached to the spindle as follows:

Cone mount. When a Morse taper (instrumental taper) is used. In this case, the shaft is made in the form of a cone, well polished and minimal effort is required to fit it. Marking example: B10, where B - symbol cone, and the number 10 is the diameter of the cutting tool shank. This type of fastening is most often found in screwdrivers.
Threaded fastening. Threads can be metric or inch. If the M13 marking is stamped on the cartridge body, then the thread is metric, 13 mm. If it is inch - UNF indicating a diameter of ½ inch.

However, in order to protect the user 100%, the manufacturer of imported drills also fixes the chuck with a screw, which serves as a stopper and securely fastens it to the shaft.

The screw has a left-hand thread and very often when a drill is repaired inexperienced people, the slot on the screw for the screwdriver is torn off out of ignorance, believing that it has a standard right-hand thread - so you need to unscrew it clockwise.

Knowing design features own drill, removing the chuck does not seem to be a big problem.

To change this element You need to prepare the following tools:

Pipe wrench No. 2.
Medium sized hammer. Approximately 400−500 gr.
Wrenches.
Vernier caliper No. 1, 2 or 3.
Screwdriver with the required form and blade cross-section.
Personal or velvet file.
Sandpaper.

This list shows the minimum set of tools. It is very possible that during the work you will need something additional.

Threaded connection

Procedure for dismantling:

Having secured the part of the equipment on which the cams are held with a pipe (gas) wrench No. 2, you need to rotate the shaft. The cartridge should unscrew easily after such “persistent” intervention.

Connection with a tool cone: dismantling step by step

Such dismantling is carried out using a hammer and a drift made of non-ferrous metal: brass, bronze, aluminum, copper. However, hammers of this type are still found.

Soft metal will not cause damage to the equipment in the form of nicks and deformations.

You need to do the following:

Hold the drill with the handle up.
Gently tap the back of the cartridge around the entire circumference with a hammer.
After the device is dismantled, you need to clean the cone with fine sandpaper. Remove large nicks, if any, using a file.
The new cartridge is inserted into its regular place and fixed with a blow from a wooden hammer (mallet).

For old drills manufactured back in Soviet period, let's use one more method. In them, on the shaft, between the tool body and the chuck, there is a fairly large gap, and there are flats on the shaft.

Locksmiths, as a rule, acted as follows:

We inserted the key into these grooves.
The clamping tool was dismantled by hitting the open-end wrench with a hammer.

The method, of course, is not the safest, given that the key can fly off along a trajectory unplanned by the locksmith and cause injury. There is also a type of drill where a slot is made in the body into which a wedge is inserted to knock out the chuck. Such drills may have two cones: one in the chuck and the other in the drill. These instruments are impressive in size and weight.

Taper drills are considered more accurate in critical drilling because the Morse taper is manufactured to a high degree of precision.

In addition, the conical chuck can be removed with a puller, since each such drill, which does not even have a threaded hole for a locking screw, has a through hole. And if you use a puller with a central pin and rest it against this hole, then by securing it to its counterpart, which has hooks in the form of powerful hooks, you can also remove the firmly attached cartridge. Such pullers are used to remove, for example, bearings.

Replacement for drill Interskol

The Interskol drill is very comfortable and has an ergonomic handle. Low price is also common cause its choice by customers.

does not pose any particular problems:

You cannot hit the chuck itself with a hammer: you can not only break it, but also deform the spindle. This will lead to the need to disassemble the entire drill and repair it in a specialized workshop.

On some models of drills of this brand, the spindle (axis) on which the chuck is mounted has special grooves (flat) for an open-end wrench. This allows you to securely fix the axle before unscrewing.

If there are no grooves, and the method of hitting the hex key did not help, it is best to partially disassemble the drill by unscrewing all the screws and removing the cover of the tool body.

You can fix the shaft as follows:

Hold the large gear of the gearbox and the fan impeller with your palm. It is, of course, better to work with durable gloves.
Unscrew the equipment.

After removing the old tool, installing the new unit must be done in the reverse order, not forgetting to lubricate the threads of the spindle and screw.

It is extremely undesirable to use Litol type lubricants, since when the next replacement comes, the difficulties will be even greater than if the threads were not lubricated at all. This should be done with graphite lubricant or simply machine oil.

How to remove the keyless chuck

This type of equipment was invented by Bosch. These types of devices are widely used in many drills from Bosch, Makita, Hitachi, as well as in screwdrivers. They allow you to easily and effortlessly change drill bits, which is especially convenient when working with a large number drill

You will need:

Phillips screwdriver or straight.
Hexagonal L-shaped key.
Hammer.

You need to unscrew the locking screw. Screws come in different screwdriver sizes.
Clamp the hex key into the chuck with the short side.
The drill or screwdriver must be placed on the edge of the table (workbench), so that the device does not lie on the table.
Using a hammer, apply a sharp blow to the unclamped edge of the hexagon. Direction is counterclockwise.

Step-by-step instructions for analysis

Sometimes it becomes necessary to disassemble it for the following reasons:

Severe blockage.
The cartridge is jammed.
Cam wear.

Practice shows that the simplest and most common method of disassembly can be carried out using a hammer drill.

Step by step instructions:

Remove the boot from the hammer drill.
We insert a small adapter.
We push the hammer drill's cams inward, expanding the chuck to the maximum.
Between the cartridge and the wall we place some kind of shock-absorbing material, a piece of structured polystyrene, for example, or rubber.
We press the hammer drill together with the disassembled chuck and shock absorber against the wall.
Turn on the hammer drill, putting it in impact mode.
After a few seconds, the cartridge parts will be untwisted, that is, the cartridge will be disassembled.
Now you should remove the cams and perform a visual inspection.

If a drill was used to drill into walls, then there is a high probability of dust, cement, fine particles bricks and so on. It is necessary to remove all debris and, if necessary, wash the parts with kerosene. Then, after wiping the parts, lubricate them with grease.

It is important not to swap the cams. In order to avoid this, you should use markings, signing each of them, as well as the seats.

We push our fists forward.
We install a nut (consists of two crackers), with which you can use a wrench to unscrew and screw the cartridge into place.
We hide the cams inside the device by unscrewing it.
We install the cartridge clip in place.
We press in the clip. It can be done in various ways, for example, using a lathe. In this case, the front part of the equipment is clamped into the machine chuck, and the rear part is pressed by the tailstock. A simpler “home” method is as follows: take a massive metal plate, on which the disassembled equipment is placed. A thick washer made of non-ferrous metal is placed on its upper part. Applying light blows to the washer with a hammer, press the clip into place.

The unit is suitable for further use.