How to remove a keyless chuck from a drill. Repairing a drill, screwdriver, how to replace a drill chuck

Any home craftsman's tools must include a drill. True, sometimes it becomes necessary to remove the cartridge from it. Typically, this problem occurs when the device breaks down.

Any craftsman who understands at least a little technology can complete this task. But for a person who has never encountered this, it can become a big problem. To easily remove a part from a drill, you first need to study the principles of its fastening, and only then proceed to replacement.

• Quick-clamping types;
• Collet SDS devices;
• Cam types.

With quick-release elements, you can change a bit or drill in seconds, without using any additional tools. They are divided into single and double coupling types.

In the latter option, to attach the drill, you have to hold the coupling with one hand and screw the other with the other. Single-sleeve chucks have a shaft locking system that is activated when the equipment is replaced. The disadvantage of such products is low fixation strength drills In addition, application plastic parts significantly increases the risk of cartridge damage.

On impact drills and hammer drills are better to use jaw chucks. They are stronger, so they are often used to work in difficult conditions. In such products, plastic elements are not installed, and the equipment is fastened with a special key.

There are also collet SDS chucks that were created in the 70s of the last century. The shank of this design contains two grooves, the size of which is 10 mm.

In this system, part of the drill has to be screwed into the chuck by 40 mm. It is fixed with locking balls. In addition, in the design there are 4 grooves, 2 of them are fixing, and the rest are used for guide wedges. The spindle of a device equipped with this design is automatically locked immediately after installation.

Mounting methods

In any drilling tool The cartridge is fixed on the shaft in two ways: on a cone and using a threaded fastener.

In the latter version, there is an inch or metric thread on the internal channel and shaft of the drill. In such a situation during repairs, many often have the question of how to change the chuck for a drill. You can find out the type of thread and its characteristics on the body. For example, if 1-15M13x1.3 is stamped, it means:

• M13 - metric thread diameter;
• 1.3 - its pitch;
• 1 and 15 - maximum and minimum drill shank size.

When inch threads are used, the designation UNF is marked. Therefore, before changing the product, you need to check whether the mounting dimensions correspond to the markings. Nowadays, almost all drills have inch threads.

To ensure a strong connection, a locking screw is mounted on the shaft inside the device. It has a left-hand thread, in other words, it should be unscrewed clockwise.

Another fixation option involves application of Morse cone. The end of the motor shaft is made in the form of a cone. The internal channel also has the same conical part. Install the cartridge onto the shaft cone. These elements are marked as B 10, B 12, B 16, and also B 18. This method is especially popular in screwdrivers.

To remove it you will need a screwdriver. It turns out the screw screwed into the tool spindle and installed inside the product. After which it twists off the spindle. As mentioned above, the internal screw has a left-hand thread, therefore it rotates clockwise. True, the cartridge is unscrewed counterclockwise, since, on the contrary, it has a right-hand thread.

If the screw does not want to come out, tap it through a screwdriver with a hammer. There should be no difficulties with the cartridge; it unscrews easily. Although if difficulties arise, you can use open-end wrenches and gas wrenches. Attach the spindle to the drill first, and grip the chuck last.

In addition, when the chuck has functioning clamping jaws, a thicker hexagon can be installed to turn it out. You also need to secure the spindle using an open-end wrench. Most modern battery-powered drills do not require any additional attachments to mount the drill. However, changing the cartridge for them is very difficult.

When this does not help to remove it, the tool body is disassembled. Thus, it is possible to reach the spindle, since it is hidden when assembled. Then everything is put back together, but without using keys.

What to do if the internal screw is damaged during the replacement process? In this situation, it is better to purchase an adapter for a chuck for a cam-type hammer drill, since it comes with a screw.

How to replace a cone specimen?

There should not be any difficulties when removing the element mounted on the shaft cone. You can use a special tool that is used to replace bearings.

But the easiest way is to place the tool vertically, with the drill pointing down. Then you need to gently tap the entire surface with a hammer until the cartridge is disengaged. If necessary, it is polished. The new part is inserted with light blows from above.

Changing the drill bit in a drill

Often due to excessive load or improper fastening of the drill can jam the cartridge, it will no longer be possible to get it in the usual way. What to do in this case? First try just cooling the part. Quite often this is enough to relax the cams and pull out the drill.

You can go another way. Tapping on the cams will help release jammed equipment. To do this, secure the free edge of the drill in a vice and apply wooden strip to the chuck. It is through this that the tapping is performed. Vibration will loosen the grip of the chuck, and the drill can be easily removed. Moreover, this method is suitable for owners of quick-release and classic fasteners.

But sometimes it is impossible to remove a tool without using lubricant. In particular difficult situations, the problem can be solved only after immersing the cartridge in vegetable or machine oil. It is necessary to keep the product in the liquid for about an hour. If you combine methods, you will be able to remove a stuck drill much faster.

Quick-release and keyed

Any craftsman who has a drill on his farm may encounter a situation where the drill chuck begins to hit (the center is lost) and the drill moves from side to side, as a result of which normal work will not work. Or the chuck's jaws are simply worn out, which can happen over time.
In this case, the cartridge should be replaced with a new one. How to choose it correctly?

There are several types of drill chucks. There are threaded ones, some are on a cone, which are simply pushed on and not screwed on. Let's consider them in more detail so as not to make a mistake when choosing.

Threaded chuck.

On thread

It is put on the drill by screwing it onto a threaded pin, which is located on the drill.
There are two main varieties threaded chuck. They differ in thread types.
They are marked (1.5-13 M12*1.25) and (1.5-13 1/2 - 20 UNF)

The numbers 1.5-13 indicate the maximum and minimum diameter of the drill shank that can be clamped into the chuck. The minimum is 1.5mm, the maximum is 13mm, 13.5 is also included, I checked it personally. On some chucks the minimum clamping diameter is 2mm.
M12 – means that the hole at the bottom is 12mm.
1.25 or 1/2 - 20 UNF is different types threads, the first is metric, the second is inch.

Choose correctly, the cartridges are not interchangeable, if there is a marking on the cartridge M12*1.25, then take that one. If M12*1/2 – 20 UNF – then only this one. If the inscription is erased, you will have to remove the cartridge from the drill and take it with you to the store.

How to remove it?
To do this, twist the cartridge counterclockwise. Sometimes the cartridge is additionally secured with a screw, which is located in the center,

this screw has a left-hand thread, i.e. unscrews clockwise, and not as usual - counterclockwise. First, unscrew the chuck (spread the jaws), then tighten the screw. After this, you can twist the cartridge itself counterclockwise; its thread is standard. It happens that this is very difficult to do, since over time it is very delayed. To remove, you can use it to grab tightly, for example, take number two. You can use the help of a friend: one holds the neck of the drill with one key, the second twists the cartridge itself with another key. Especially if the drill is old, it’s a little difficult without an assistant.

Cartridge on a cone.

They are put on by simple push-on. There are also several varieties: B10, B12, B16, B18. If there is a letter “B” in the marking on the cartridge, know that it is on a cone and there is no thread at the bottom.
The number in the cartridge marking indicates the diameter of the hole at the bottom. The larger it is, the bigger hole. In chucks B10, B12 you can clamp a drill with a maximum shank of 13mm. And B16, B18 allow you to clamp drills with a shank up to 16mm.
Such a cartridge should be removed by knocking it out of the drill, simply and simply using a hammer.
It is mounted on a special pin - a holder located on the drill.

There are cartridges with key, has quick-release fasteners(in the first photo).
The advantages of quick clamping include the fact that it is convenient to quickly change drills. The downside is that sometimes drills can turn, especially if the shank is cylindrical (round) and not hexagonal, especially when the drill for metal is of large diameter. The load is large, but you can’t tighten it by hand, which can’t be said about the “classic” cartridges, which are tightened with a key. In my opinion, this is much more reliable. The only negative is that you can lose the key, for this it is logical to screw it onto the drill cable with electrical tape so that it is always in its place.

There are chucks with a 1/4" hex shank that can clamp drills from 0.6mm.

A power tool chuck is actually a consumable item. Replacing it does not happen often, but sooner or later the home master is faced with the question: how to replace it?
To understand the drilling process, let’s get acquainted with the types of chucks and their fastening mechanisms.

Drill chucks with in different ways fastenings

Cam type

Key

The clamping mechanism is operated by a bevel gear wrench, hence the name. When turning the outer coupling, the movable cams, using a threaded connection, converge to the center and clamp the drill. The most common type. Holds the bit perfectly and allows drilling in any direction of rotation. The disadvantage is that the key must always be at hand.

IMPORTANT! When replacing a drill using a wrench, the power tool must be disconnected from the mains.

Threaded (second name – keyless)

The cams close due to the pressure of a movable stop located at the base of the mechanism. The cartridge body is simply screwed onto the stop connected to the shaft. Easy to use, but has a number of disadvantages. Low clamping force and one drilling direction.

Quick-release

The operating principle is the same as the key one. Only the outer coupling can be turned by hand. There are two types.

Single coupling

One hand is enough to change the drill. The shaft is held by friction in the gearbox, or blocked by a special device.

Double coupling

It is necessary to hold the lower coupling with one hand while simultaneously rotating the upper coupling with the other hand. Thanks to this, the fixation of the drill is more durable.

Such cases can be made of plastic or metal. It all depends on the conditions under which the drill is used.

This type of chuck is commonly called self-clamping. Many craftsmen, using a drill with a speed controller, simply hold the chuck clutch with their hand while simultaneously pressing the start key of the power tool. In this case, the clamping mechanism is fixed as if by itself.

IMPORTANT! Clamp key chuck holding it with your hand is dangerous.

Replacing a drill or other attachment in such chucks is quick, but the clamping force is low. Therefore, when working with metal or stone workpieces, it is better to use a drill with a key mechanism.

For greater functionality, drills and screwdrivers are now equipped with a chuck. This device will allow you to clamp any tool that has a cylindrical or faceted shank, no matter whether it is a drill or a screwdriver bit. The most commonly used are three-jaw self-centering chucks.

But like any mechanical device, the jaw chuck can fail, and sometimes a situation arises when the chuck needs to be replaced to install other equipment. This situation often arises when using a hammer drill as a drill or when working with miniature drills, the shanks of which cannot be clamped with a conventional chuck.

In our article we will describe how the chuck is secured to the working shaft of the tool and how to properly dismantle it.

There are three main types of fixing the chuck on the shaft:

1. Morse taper, is marked with the letter “B” with a number indicating its size. IN lately It is found only in machine-building production, but, nevertheless, it is a fairly reliable method of fixation.

2. Threaded fastening. Marked with a thread designation in inches or metric units indicating the dimension. The thread is directed towards reverse side from the direction of rotation, this avoids loosening and twisting during operation.

Marking on the cartridge. The letter Z is on the top ring and the dimension, in inches, is on the central one.

Most often in household tools, it is the threaded assembly with an additional screw fastening that is found, this is due to the sufficient reliability and simplicity of the design of these devices. In addition, such a cartridge is much easier to remove at home.

It should be noted separately that quick-release clamping devices have become widespread in recent years. Typically, this type of device is installed on universal impact drills and rotary hammers. For quick tool changes. In this case, the cartridge is combined with a spline-type shaft fixation device.

Removing the chuck from the drill

First of all, let's turn to quick release chuck. To remove this device, simply clamp the upper ring of the clamping device and turn the lower ring until it clicks. Typically the rotation limits are shown on the chuck itself.

As can be seen in the photo, a cotter-type clamping device is installed on the drill to secure the drill. Below is a three-jaw chuck prepared for replacement.

Having fixed the upper ring with the marking, forcefully turn the lower ring with the line until the removed device is marked. After which the device is easily removed in the direction of the shaft axis. The jaw chuck is initially set to the open position. If not, then just turn the lower part in relation to the upper ring until it clicks.

We put the chuck on the shaft, clamp the upper ring and scroll the lower part until it clicks, the chuck is fixed on the shaft and is ready for use.

The photo clearly shows the boundary between the quick-release device and the cartridge itself. In order to remove the cartridge itself, we need a screwdriver or hex key.

Here you can see the chuck jaws lowered to the extreme position. And at the very bottom of the socket you can see an axial screw for a slotted screwdriver. This screw will need to be unscrewed in order to remove the clamping chuck fixed on the shaft.
Here, for example, is a cartridge rigidly fixed on the shaft

In this case, you will need a Phillips screwdriver to remove it.
It should be noted that hexagon screws are also often found.

Removing a threaded cartridge with a reverse screw

In order to remove the cartridge from the axle, we first need to unscrew the central screw. In order to gain access to it, you need to push the cams all the way. Then insert a wrench or screwdriver inside and “pull” it off with a sharp movement. The screw thread is left-handed. The screw itself is filled with sealant and is very difficult to turn.

In addition, it should be noted that in the work it is worth using a high-quality tool. When working with a Chinese screwdriver, the slot simply broke off. At the same time, the screw itself remained in the untouched position. Only a blow to the screw helped, after which the head moved and the process began. After unscrewing the screw, you need to remove the cartridge body itself.

Then you need to unscrew the cartridge itself from the thread. In this case, the thread is right-handed, opposite to the screw. It is very difficult to break the thread, as it “sticks” during operation. A significant amount of effort is required, but the process can be sped up.

In this case, you can use a hex wrench clamped in the chuck. This will allow you to lengthen the lever, and if there is a “reverse”, use the tool itself. To use the tool, you either need to hold the hexagon in a vice and turn it on, or hit it on the table while rotating at low speeds.

Removing a Morse Taper Chuck

In this case, you will need a drift and a hammer. As a drift, you can use a U-shaped puller with wedge-shaped arms. It must be installed so that the axis of the cone passes between the paws, and then carefully drive it between the chuck and the drill. When entering inside, the puller should squeeze the cartridge out of the cone.

The photo shows three-jaw chucks different types and Morse cones of several sizes.

As a puller, you can use an open-end wrench or any other device that allows you to influence the cartridge in the axial direction.

It is worth noting that all actions to dismantle cartridges, especially with a Morse taper, should be carried out extremely carefully. Since excessive haste can lead to damage to the drill body or injury.

Installing the chuck

Installation is carried out in reverse order. In the case of threaded fixation, you first need to screw the cartridge body onto the thread. Then tighten the control screw. Before doing this, it is advisable to drip a little sealant onto it. For additional fixation.

Installing the chuck on a Morse taper is simple and straightforward.

You need to insert the cone into the socket and hit it sharply. After insertion, check the fixation. In the future, during operation, the cone will settle even more.

A drill is one of the most necessary tools in the house. Sometimes the question arises of how to remove the chuck from a drill. This problem appears when a tool fails or when repair and restoration work is carried out on the unit. This task is simple enough that anyone with technical knowledge can do it with ease, but it can be a challenge for a homeowner who has never done it before. In order to remove the chuck from a drill, you need to thoroughly study the principles of fastening this component of the device and only then proceed with removal.

To disassemble the tool, you need to prepare the following tools:

• vice;
• hammer;
• mallet;
• keys;
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• fine sandpaper;
• file.

If the sequence is followed, dismantling is not a problem.

Reasons leading to the need to dismantle the drill chuck

Most of the products produced by manufacturers today hand drills They use a chuck to fasten the working tool, the operating principle of which is based on the use of a cam mechanism. Fixing the working tool is carried out by clamping it between 3-4 cams approaching each other. The cams have a conical part and are able to move in the longitudinal direction due to the rotation of the adjusting special sleeve on the device for clamping the drill. In a quick-release chuck, the sleeve is turned by hand, while in a regular chuck, a special key is used for this purpose.

During the operation of the drill, situations arise when it is necessary to change the chuck, for example, if the working tool begins to run out. Most often, this malfunction occurs as a result of a displacement of the center of the drill attachment, which appears due to intense wear of the cams. In order to carry out repair work in such a situation, it is necessary to dismantle the cartridge from the device. Sometimes you have to remove the chuck in order to remove a jammed drill from it. The cause of jamming may be sudden damage to the jaws clamping mechanism. In addition, disassembly and removal of the tool clamping device is required if excessive wear of the gearing on the adjusting sleeve is detected. In some cases, while working with a drill, a situation arises in which the chuck rotates relative to the drill shaft, which also requires repairs, which will include dismantling the chuck.

Sometimes the clamping device is replaced at the initiative of the tool owner if it is planned to install a more universal unit on the drill.

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Types of fastening the clamping device to the drill

The clamping device can be attached to the drill shaft in two ways:

• using a threaded connection;
• using a cone connection.

Another type of threaded connection is the use of an additional locking screw in the design, which ensures reliable fixation.

Threaded fastening assumes that the drill shaft and the clamping device channel have identical threaded threads with which they are connected. Given this type of connection, the question arises of how this clamping device can be dismantled. In the manufacture of drills and clamping devices, metric and inch threads are used. The type of thread used in the device and its size are indicated on the body of the clamping device. For example, the inscription “1.5-15 M13x1.2” stamped on a cartridge may mean the following:

• 1.5 and 15 - numbers indicating the minimum and maximum diameters of the drill shanks with which the clamping device can work;
• M13 - letters and numbers denoting metric threads with a diameter of 13 mm;
• 1,2 - numbers characterizing the thread pitch.

When using an inch thread type, the abbreviation UNF is used, and the dimension is indicated in inches. Before removing the chuck from the drill, you should check that the markings on the new clamping device match the chuck that was previously used in the drill design.

Modern tool models produced by manufacturers most often have inch threads. Manufacturing clamping devices with inch threads allows you to expand the possibilities of interchangeability.

To ensure more reliable fastening of the clamping device, a locking screw is provided on the shaft of the device. The screw has a left-hand thread, so if you need to unscrew it, rotate it clockwise.

The second method of fastening the clamping device is based on the use of a Morse taper. The shaft of the device is made in the form of a cone, the clamping device has the same taper of the internal channel. The clamping device is secured to the shaft by forcefully mounting the device onto the motor shaft of the device. The markings of such clamping devices are B10, B12, B16, B18. The letter indicates the marking of the cone, and the number indicates the diameter of the shank of the working tool.

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Dismantling threaded and cone connections

Removing the tool clamping device installed on the threaded connection, is carried out in a certain sequence.

At the first stage, the internal fixing element, which looks like a screw, is unscrewed. This screw has a left-hand thread. Unscrewing is done using a Phillips screwdriver. After unscrewing the fastening screw, the unit intended for fixing the working tool is unscrewed. The unit is unscrewed in a counterclockwise direction. When dismantling, it is recommended to fix the drill in a vice, since the device is usually screwed very tightly. To unscrew this element of the drill design, use a gas wrench. If it is necessary to remove the working tool, light blows are applied to the device from above.

Installation of the new device is carried out in the reverse order. When winding an element, the tool shaft should be firmly fixed to prevent its rotation. After screwing the device, the fixing screw is installed.

Dismantling the conical structural element does not cause any difficulties. You can use a bearing removal tool. The simplest way to carry out the work is as follows. Using a light hammer, knock out the structural element from its engagement. Installation of the new device is carried out using light blows on the element being installed.