How to remove the chuck from a drill. Repairing a drill, screwdriver, how to replace a drill chuck

Any home craftsman's tools must include a drill. True, sometimes it becomes necessary to remove the cartridge from it. As a rule, this problem occurs when the device breaks down.

Any craftsman who understands at least a little technology can complete this task. But for a person who has never encountered this, it can become a big problem. To easily remove a part from a drill, you first need to study the principles of its fastening, and only then proceed to replacement.

Classification of cartridges

Exists several of their varieties:

Quick-clamping types;
Collet SDS devices;
Cam types.

With quick-release elements, you can change a bit or drill in seconds, without using any additional tools. They are divided into single and double coupling types.

In the latter option, to attach the drill, you have to hold the coupling with one hand and screw the other with the other. Single-sleeve chucks have a shaft locking system that is activated when the equipment is replaced. The disadvantage of such products is low fixation strength drills In addition, application plastic parts significantly increases the risk of cartridge damage.

It is better to use jaw chucks on impact drills and rotary hammers. They are stronger, so they are often used to work in difficult conditions. In such products, plastic elements are not installed, and the equipment is fastened with a special key.

There are also collet SDS chucks that were created in the 70s of the last century. The shank of this design contains two grooves, the size of which is 10 mm.

In this system, part of the drill has to be screwed into the chuck by 40 mm. It is fixed with locking balls. In addition, in the design there are 4 grooves, 2 of them are fixing, and the rest are used for guide wedges. The spindle of a device equipped with this design is automatically locked immediately after installation.

Mounting methods

In any drilling tool, the chuck is fixed on the shaft in two ways: on a cone and using a threaded fastener.

In the latter version, there is an inch or metric thread on the internal channel and shaft of the drill. In such a situation during repairs, many often have the question of how to change the chuck for a drill. You can find out the type of thread and its characteristics on the body. For example, if 1-15M13x1.3 is stamped, it means:

M13 - metric thread diameter;
1.3 - its pitch;
1 and 15 - maximum and minimum drill shank size.

When inch threads are used, the designation UNF is marked. Therefore, before changing the product, you need to check whether the mounting dimensions correspond to the markings. Nowadays, almost all drills have inch threads.

To ensure a strong connection, a locking screw is mounted on the shaft inside the device. It has a left-hand thread, in other words, it should be unscrewed clockwise.

Another fixation option involves application of Morse cone. The end of the motor shaft is made in the form of a cone. The internal channel also has the same conical part. Install the cartridge onto the shaft cone. These elements are marked as B 10, B 12, B 16, and also B 18. This method is especially popular in screwdrivers.

To remove it you will need a screwdriver. It turns out the screw screwed into the tool spindle and installed inside the product. After which it twists off the spindle. As mentioned above, the internal screw has a left-hand thread, therefore it rotates clockwise. True, the cartridge is unscrewed counterclockwise, since, on the contrary, it has a right-hand thread.

If the screw does not want to come out, tap it through a screwdriver with a hammer. There shouldn't be any difficulties with the cartridge; it unscrews easily. Although if difficulties arise, you can use open-end wrenches and gas wrenches. Attach the spindle to the drill first, and grip the chuck last.

In addition, when the chuck has functioning clamping jaws, a thicker hexagon can be installed to turn it out. You also need to secure the spindle using an open-end wrench. Most modern battery-powered drills do not require any additional attachments to mount the drill. However, changing the cartridge for them is very difficult.

When this does not help to remove it, the tool body is disassembled. Thus, it is possible to reach the spindle, since it is hidden when assembled. Then everything is put back together, but without using keys.

What to do if the internal screw is damaged during the replacement process? In this situation, it is better to purchase an adapter for a chuck for a cam-type hammer drill, since it comes with a screw.

How to replace a cone specimen?

There should not be any difficulties when removing the element mounted on the shaft cone. You can use a special tool that is used to replace bearings.

But the easiest way is to place the tool vertically, with the drill pointing down. Then you need to gently tap the entire surface with a hammer until the cartridge is disengaged. If necessary, it is polished. The new part is inserted with light blows from above.

Changing the drill bit in a drill

Often due to excessive load or improper fastening of the drill can jam the cartridge, it will no longer be possible to get it in the usual way. What to do in this case? First try just cooling the part. Quite often this is enough to relax the cams and pull out the drill.

You can go another way. Tapping on the cams will help release jammed equipment. To do this, secure the free edge of the drill in a vice and apply wooden strip to the chuck. It is through this that the tapping is performed. Vibration will loosen the grip of the chuck, and the drill can be easily removed. Moreover, this method is suitable for owners of quick-release and classic fasteners.

But sometimes it is impossible to remove a tool without using lubricant. In particular difficult situations, the problem can be solved only after immersing the cartridge in vegetable or machine oil. It is necessary to keep the product in the liquid for about an hour. If you combine methods, you will be able to remove a stuck drill much faster.

You have to remove the chuck from the electric drill to clean or replace it. The dismantling process itself is simple, and sometimes difficulties that arise can be solved. Our guide clearly shows how to properly remove the chuck from a drill with your own hands.

Methods for attaching cartridges

Hand drills use two types of drill chuck mounting:

Morse taper - a conical shaft shank and a corresponding hole in the chuck.
Threaded fastening - a thread on a shaft onto which the cartridge is screwed like a nut.

Take a close look at the metal rod between the body and the cartridge. In the case of a threaded fit, the slots for the open-end wrench are usually visible, and the tapered shaft is always smooth.

The method of fastening is also indicated by the markings stamped on the cartridge:

The Morse cone is designated by the abbreviation B10, B12, etc. (B is the cone, the number is the maximum drill size).
The marking of the threaded cartridge contains a designation of the type and diameter of the thread: M13 (metric by 13 mm) or UNF-1/2 (inch by half inch).

Removing the threaded cartridge

For drills with reverse function drill chuck additionally secured with a locking screw visible through the open cams.

The slots on the screw head can be cross-shaped, hexagonal or even star-shaped. Prepare the required screwdriver, wrench or bit. Use a tool with complete splines that fit exactly.

Measure the size of the wrench space on the drill shaft. Most likely, it will be 14 mm for a mid-range tool or 17 mm for a more powerful device.

Prepare an open-end wrench with thin jaws. You can take a suitable one from a bicycle repair kit or grind off the edges of a regular key using sandpaper.

Hold the drill shaft with a wrench and try using a screwdriver to unscrew the screw clockwise (left-hand thread).

Try not to tear off the splines.

If the thread does not work, secure the electric drill chuck in a vice and hit the screw head several times with a hammer through a steel rod.

Now the thread will become more pliable and the screw will come loose.

Difficulties may arise. Try increasing the leverage by holding a hex wrench in the chuck.

As a last resort, use a vice, placing a drill in it as in the photo below.

Move the cartridge from its place by striking the driver secured through the square head.

This method makes it possible to unscrew fairly strongly stuck cartridges.

After cleaning, install the cartridge in reverse order, remembering different directions threads.

Apply a little paint to the threads before tightening the locking screw.

Specifics of cone fastening

In modern hand-held electric drills, the Morse taper is rarely found. Such models are equipped with special pullers, and the dismantling process is displayed in the technical description.

In old Soviet drills The design of the gearbox made it possible to remove the cartridge using rather crude methods. One could try to separate the conical surfaces with a wedge-shaped object, lightly knocking it from different sides.

Another option was to take the drill with one hand with the chuck facing down, and with the other to apply light blows to the end with a hammer. If that didn’t help, we lubricated the landing site with a penetrating compound (kerosene or WD-40), let it sit for several hours, and tried to knock the cartridge off again.

This method can be used if the shaft bearing is installed inside the housing. For most drills used today, this method is unacceptable, as it can lead to damage to the bearings or gearbox.

When selecting a new chuck, pay attention to the type of fastening, bore diameter and the ability to operate in impact mode, if your drill has this option.

Electric drills use a special device called a chuck to securely hold the drill bits. In household drills, jaw chucks are the most widely used type. With intensive use, they may fail and require replacement or repair. Problems often arise during these operations. So how can you remove the chuck from the drill shaft, disassemble it into its component parts and replace it with a new one?

The role of the chuck in reliable fastening of the drill

Clamping drill chucks for household drills are available in three modifications:

key;
quick-release;
gear-crown.

The body of the key jaw chuck is made in the form of a hollow hardened cylindrical sleeve (collet), on the outer surface of which a rotating adjusting collar is installed. On one side the cylinder is mounted on the drive shaft of the drill, and on the other side there are cams (petals) for attaching cutting tools (drills, taps, reamers, etc.). When the adjusting collar rotates, the steel cams move along guides using special threads. If they come close to each other, the drill is clamped. If they diverge from each other, the tool is released. The approaching and moving away of the cams depends on the direction of rotation of the holder. Reliable fixation of the drill is ensured by tightening the chuck holder with great force. To do this, use a special key or a quick-clamping coupling with quick-release chucks.

The key helps to firmly clamp the drill and easily unscrew the adjusting collar. Drills of various diameters with a cylindrical shank are fixed in jaw chucks. Most often, household electric drill chucks are designed for drills with a diameter of 0.8 to 10 mm or 1.5 to 13 mm.

Why and when do you need to change?

The clamping device must ensure that holes are drilled with acceptable accuracy. But over time, the seats on the shaft and cams wear out, and the cartridge begins to beat. That is, the working area of the drill begins to move from side to side when rotating, and the hole is drilled with deviations both in location and in diameter. Wear on the cams does not allow the drills to be securely fastened, and they stop under load. There is only one way out - replace the worn cartridge with a new one.

How to replace the chuck in a drill with your own hands?

To attach the chuck to the drive shaft of the drill, a threaded connection or Morse taper is used. Visual inspection electric drill will not always help you suggest a way to secure the drill chuck. This can be indicated by the marking on the cartridge: it is stamped on its surface.

Replacing the conical type of part

The standard size of the Morse cone (according to GOST 9953–82) consists of 9 values: from B7 to B45. How higher figure after the letter B, the larger the diameter of the cone.

Thus, having found the marking “B” on the surface of the cartridge, we can conclude that this is a device with a conical mounting base. With this method of attachment, the cartridge can be easily removed. It is enough to use a drift and a plumber's hammer.

Video: how to remove a chuck with a cone from an electric drill?

Replacing the reversible threaded chuck

To secure the drill clamp to an electric household drill using a threaded joint, two types of threads are used:

inch (for foreign models);
metric (from Russian manufacturers).

The following marking is applied to the surface of the threaded clamping chuck body: 1.5–13 1/2 – 20UNF or 1.5–13 M12x1.25.

The reversible threaded cartridge for fixation has a screw with a left-hand thread. You need to know this nuance when filming broken cartridge. In order to get to the screw head, it is necessary to recess the cams into the collet completely. As soon as the head of the screw is visible, use a hardened Phillips screwdriver to unscrew it to the right clockwise. Then hold the hex key in your fists and hit it sharply in a counterclockwise direction. After the cartridge is torn from its place, it can be easily unscrewed.

Video: how to remove a chuck from a reverse drill or screwdriver?

On other models there are other options for mounting the cartridge on the thread. In some cases, the cartridge is twisted entirely from the threaded end of the shaft. In other cases, the screw can be fixed with a special thin key using a narrow groove. The main difficulty is to move the cartridge from its place when unscrewing. Sometimes this is very difficult to do. In any case, to remove the cartridge you need: a mechanic's tool, the necessary skill and patience.

Disassembling a drill chuck with a quick-release nut

To clean the jaws and lubricate the moving parts and threads of the cartridge, it must be disassembled. Disassembly is necessary to repair and replace failed parts. Here is a short list and sequence of operations for disassembling the jaw chuck:

The removed cartridge with the conical part up, lined with wooden spacers, is clamped by the coupling in a vice.
Use a gas wrench to carefully unscrew the notched nut.
The bearing is pulled out. The puck comes out.
The cartridge is removed from the vice.
The adjusting sleeve is twisted from the base by hand. If it does not give in (jammed), then the cartridge turns over and is again compressed by the clutch in a vice. A little machine oil is poured onto the threaded part of the coupling and base. Then, using a gas wrench, the base is skillfully unscrewed from the coupling.
If there is a retaining ring or nut at the bottom, they are removed.
The cams are pulled out of the guide rings and removed from the base cone.
All parts of the drill chuck are carefully inspected. If worn, deformed or broken parts are identified, they are rejected and replaced.
The jaw chuck is assembled in the reverse order. At the same time, all moving parts are lubricated with a special grease. It is best to use the lubricant recommended by the manufacturer.

The procedure for disassembling cartridges of other models may be different. It depends on the type of chuck, its design and the manufacturer of the drill. To disassemble the drill chuck yourself, you need to fulfill three conditions:

have the necessary set of tools available;
have plumbing skills;
to be a person with a stable, balanced psyche.

Possible problems with the chuck when operating a drill: causes, descriptions and ways to solve them

To avoid problems with a drill, you need to be able to operate it correctly. A drill is a universal tool; it can be used to drill wood and metal, plastic and tile, stone and glass, concrete and brick. In everyday life, a rotary impact drill of medium power is usually used. It is equipped with a chuck of the SDS system, which was invented by BOSH. The SDS chuck is not particularly accurate, but is ideal for drilling concrete, stone, and brick. That is, those building materials, where drilling is necessary with impact.

For more precise drilling of metal and wooden parts, it has a special adapter for attaching a jaw key chuck or a keyless chuck. A drill cannot be used for milling work. The drill chuck is not designed for side loads and will quickly fail. Of great importance is:

correct choice of drill;
correct sharpening of the cutting part of the drill;
mandatory marking of the center of the holes using a core.

You need to skillfully select the desired speed, feed, operating mode depending on the workpiece material. All these factors directly affect the reliable operation of the drill chuck.

The part falls off

Does the cartridge fly off? This problem occurs quite often even on new drills with a cone-shaped jaw chuck when drilling a deep hole. You need to lift the drill to free it from the chips, and at this moment the chuck flies off the cone. The situation can be corrected by increasing the tension in the cone joint. To do this, the chuck is heated in oil or oven to a temperature of 110 degrees and placed on a cold drill mandrel.

Clamping jaws jammed

Drill work always takes place in dirty conditions. This is dust, dirt, shavings, sawdust and other small debris. If this debris gets inside the chuck, it can cause jamming. threaded connections, in particular, at the cams. There is only one way out here. Requires disassembly of the cartridge, cleaning and rinsing of moving parts. Before assembly, all moving parts are lubricated with lithol. Especially a lot of waste is poured into the chuck when drilling ceiling surfaces. Here you can think about protecting the cartridge with half a small rubber ball.

Runout

Chuck runout can be caused by various reasons. For example, the Morse seat cone is worn out. This can be checked using paint. An even layer is applied to the cone and the cartridge is inserted. Then the mark he left on the cone is removed and studied. Another reason could be uneven wear on the cams. In this case, they need to be changed. But more often they replace a broken cartridge with a new clamping device.

In the right hands, a household drill can work wonders. With its help, holes are drilled in durable and soft materials. The chuck is an important component of a drilling machine. It is this that ensures the reliability of drill fastening and drilling accuracy. Therefore, it is very important for a home craftsman to be able to independently carry out minor repairs and replacement of this part of the device.

Even the most reliable branded power tool, such as an electric drill, hammer drill or screwdriver, not to mention a Chinese-made tool, wears out over time, depending on the intensity of use, and begins to hold drills and bits poorly, or the chuck jams.

The same fate befell the chuck of my electric drill, which has been serving faithfully for more than 12 years. The malfunction began to manifest itself with jamming, resulting in difficulty in rotating the release ring. In addition, water got inside the cartridge during the renovation of the apartment, and a coating of rust appeared in the guide grooves of the cartridge cams. The working surfaces of the cams are also worn out. Although the drill chuck was still working, changing drills was extremely inconvenient. I decided to replace it with a new one, and then the question arose, how to remove the chuck from the drill shaft?

Methods for attaching a drill chuck

In order to answer the question of how to remove a drill chuck, you need to understand the existing methods of attaching chucks to the shafts of drills and screwdrivers.

There are two ways to secure the chuck to a power tool. The first method was proposed back in 1864 by Stephen Morse using a cone. Morse, by the way, is also the inventor of the twist drill. The essence of the method is to pair two surfaces in the form of a shaft and a part with a hole, having the same taper with an angle in the range from 1°25'43" to 1°30'26". In honor of the inventor, this fastening method was called the Morse cone, which is shown in the photo below. The cone in the photo has a larger angle for clarity.

The Morse taper mounting method is widespread, as it is simple and quite reliable under loads along the axis, as in drills and screwdrivers. To attach the drill chuck, it is enough to put it with a little effort on the back side of the shaft with a Morse taper. Removing the cartridge is also simple; just hit its body along the axis in the direction of the drill installation location with a hammer. The ability to quickly install and remove a tool while working is the main advantage of mounting using a Morse taper.

The second, more common nowadays for attaching a drill chuck to the shafts of a power tool, is a threaded chuck.

At the end of the shaft coming out of the drill or screwdriver, a metric or inch thread is cut and the drill chuck, like a nut, is screwed onto this shaft until it touches the flange. Since the thread is right-handed, and when performing work the chuck mainly rotates clockwise, it is constantly tightened and thereby ensures its reliable fastening to the tool.

How is it secured?
drill chuck on tool

An external inspection of a power tool often fails to determine how the drill chuck is secured. But if you know the markings, then the mounting method will be determined even with a quick glance at the cartridge.

fastened with a Morse taper

In accordance with GOST 9953-82 “Shortened tool cones. Basic dimensions." There are nine standard sizes of Morse cones for fastening drill chucks: B7, B10, B12, B16, B18, B22, B24, B32 and B45. The larger the number after the letter B, the larger size cone

Now you can easily determine how to install the drill chuck shown in the photograph by the markings on it. Obviously, this cartridge is attached using a Morse taper of size B10. To remove this chuck from the shaft of a power tool, you will need to knock it down with a hammer.

In the markings before B10 there are also numbers 1-6. They indicate the range of drill shank diameters that the chuck can clamp.

Drill chuck markings
fastened with thread

Both metric and inch threads are used to secure the drill chuck to the tool using threads. Cartridges from domestic manufacturers, as a rule, are produced with metric threads, and those from imported manufacturers are always produced with inch threads.

Drill chucks with metric threads are usually marked on the body the following type: 1.5-13 M12×1.25. The numbers 1.5-13, as you probably already guessed, mean the diameter of the shanks of drills or other tools that can be clamped in this chuck. The letter M indicates that the thread is metric, the numbers 12 and 1.25 indicate the diameter of the thread and the pitch of its thread, respectively. Currently, drill chucks with fastening on a metric thread are practically not found, except that such a chuck can be seen on an old hand drill Soviet made.

The market is currently flooded with power tools foreign manufacturer, and drill chucks on it are usually attached using inch threads.

Drill chucks with inch threads are marked according to the same principle as chucks with metric threads. For example, 2-13 mm 1/2 –20 UNF, as in the photo. Numbers 2-13 indicate the range of clamping diameters of drill shanks, 1/2 is the thread diameter in inches (for reference, one English inch is equal to 2.54 cm), 20 indicates the number of threads per inch (thread pitch).

Having learned the rules for marking drill chucks, now you can easily determine how it is attached to the tool and can choose the correct technology for replacing the chuck. Marking also allows you to purchase an interchangeable chuck in case it wears out or breaks on a drill or screwdriver.

Which method of clamping
drill chuck for drill is better

In household drills and screwdrivers, one of the types is usually installed according to the method of clamping the working tool of the chucks, this is with the help of a key and quick-clamping ones. Key jaw chucks have been around for a long time and are well known to any home craftsman. Keyless chucks have only recently come into use, and they quickly gained great popularity.

In the photo on the left you see keyless chuck, and on the right is a key with a key. There is an opinion that a key chuck clamps drills better, but from many years of operating experience, both key patron, and quick-clamping, I dare say that there is no difference. Both types of cartridges are clamped with equal success. Only the convenience and speed of changing drills in a drill with a keyless chuck is undeniable. There is no need for a key, which is always lost during operation, unless it is secured to the drill or tied to it with a rope; you need to use two hands to clamp the drill.

The method of clamping the chuck is not related to the method of attaching it to the drill shaft, so if you change the chuck with a key clamping method, I advise you to install a chuck with a quick-release method of fixing drills instead.

How to unscrew the chuck from a drill
screwed

As a rule, chucks secured with a thread on the tool shaft are additionally secured with a screw with a left-hand thread. Therefore, removing the drill chuck must begin with unscrewing this screw. In order to get to the screw, you need to push the chuck jaws as far inward as possible, as shown in the photo.

On the bottom of the cartridge in the center there should be a screw head with a slot for a Phillips screwdriver or an asterisk. To prevent the screw from unscrewing when drilling, it is installed with a left-hand thread. Therefore, you need to unscrew the screw by rotating the screwdriver clockwise. There may not be a screw. In this case, immediately proceed to the second step - unscrewing the cartridge.

How to unscrew a chuck from the shaft of a drill or screwdriver

To remove the chuck from the tool, you need to fix the shaft and, grabbing the chuck by the body, unscrew it, rotating counterclockwise, as viewed from the cams. The main thing is to get the cartridge off the ground; then it usually unscrews easily.

I was lucky, since there were chamfers on the round base of the chuck that could be easily grasped with a #19 open-end wrench. The cartridge purchased as a replacement did not have such samples.

After grabbing the chuck with an open-end wrench and one sharp blow on the wrench with a hammer, even without fixing the shaft, as in the photo, the chuck moved. But it was difficult to unscrew, and there was a reason for this. I had to continue twisting it by lightly hitting the key with a hammer.

Looking inside the chuck, I did not notice the fixing screw because the hole in the head for the star bit was clogged with dirt, which just needed to be removed. Therefore, while unscrewing the cartridge, I simultaneously tore off the thread of the fixing screw; it is strange that it did not break off.

If there are no chamfers on the base of the cartridge, then you need to clamp a hex rod or an M10-12 bolt with a hex head in its jaws, place a key on it and hit it with a hammer. If you cannot screw the chuck in this way, you will have to disassemble the drill, remove the shaft with the chuck, clamp it in a vice and twist it. Instead of an open-end wrench, you can use a pipe wrench by grasping the chuck by the outer part of the housing.

How to screw a chuck onto the shaft of a drill or screwdriver

It was not possible to find a new screw with a left-hand thread, because they are used only in exceptional cases. I tried to screw the screw into place into the drill shaft, it screwed in without any problems and, to my surprise, held on tightly.

For more convenient tightening and further unscrewing, I decided to use a hacksaw to cut a slot in the head of the screw for a flat-head screwdriver. In order not to spoil the already damaged thread, before clamping the screw in a vice, I wrapped the thread with a piece of leather.

A drill chuck of the same type was purchased in advance. Installing it on the drill presented no difficulties. It is screwed clockwise, like an ordinary nut on a bolt. It is enough to lightly attach the chuck to the shaft threads and lightly hold the chuck by the body and turn on the drill. When the chuck is screwed in all the way, release it and turn off the drill.

Next, you need to open the jaws of the chuck and tighten the fixing screw. The drill has now been repaired and is ready for use again. Test drilling showed that the drill began to work like new, the chuck holds tightly, the drill is easily and securely clamped.

The drill chuck is classified as a collet chuck. Collet chucks are used to secure a drill, a cold rod, or clamp a cold metal workpiece. The classic chuck consists of a hardened clamping sleeve and 3 identical lobes (cams).

The collet is a central bushing made of strong, hardened steel. In the cartridge device it is installed centrally. There are 3 cuts in it, which form absolutely identical clamping petals (cams). As the diameter decreases, the petals are pressed closer to each other.

The first power drill chucks were a cylinder with an adjustment wheel on the surface. Next, an adjusting sleeve was added to the device.

The cylinder is still attached to the shaft of the drill or screwdriver. WITH reverse side they are already “installing” the nozzle.

It is most convenient to attach drills, cutters and taps with small shanks to the drill chuck. This tool It is secured inside the cartridge with a collet, pressing inward with the cams.

The following options are typical for the jaw chuck:

key;
gear-crown;
quick-release;

Chuck for mechanical and electric drill also called drilling. The main advantage of the drill chuck is the range of diameters for the nozzles.

A high-quality drill chuck allows you to use drills from 1 - 2 millimeters to 20 - 25 millimeters. IN this element The drill has no significant drawbacks other than the cost of the cartridge itself.

Types of drill chucks

For household and professional drilling equipment, a keyless keyless chuck is used.

With such a clamp, you can change the drill in a couple of seconds without resorting to the help of a handy wrench. By pressing firmly with your palms, you loosen the mechanism, which will allow you to release the cutting tool from the chuck. In the same way fix the drill for further work. This type The chuck works due to a corrugated metal sleeve and a locking spindle.

The disadvantages of a quick-release chuck include unstable clamping. An already worn quick-release chuck does not properly fix large-diameter drills, which leads to turning. Typical for a round shank.

The key jaw chuck must be loosened and clamped with a special key, which can easily be lost over time in work situations. It is interesting that more experienced users of drilling tools prefer a chuck with a key, since a drill or cutter can be clamped “tightly”, for example, even in a vice.

When purchasing a drill, screwdriver or hammer drill with a key jaw chuck, immediately secure the key from the kit to the wire with insulating tape or tie it to a strong cord. There will never be any problems changing the drill.

Mini drill cartridges are very popular among radio amateurs. Such elements are sometimes placed on a drill or mini drill. Can be installed on any tool suitable for drilling. For example, jewelry makers will not be able to perform work without this fastener.

Most often, mini chucks are used for a light drill or household screwdriver. The optimal drill diameter for a mini chuck is from 0.1 to 4.5 millimeters.

It is very convenient to drill microcircuits, mini models and jewelry.

The mini chuck has the simplest quick-release design collet chuck. Most often made of brass.

How to remove and change a cartridge with a threaded connection

A threaded drill chuck is installed on the shaft of a power tool and secured by the left-hand thread of the screw. You need to remove the damaged cartridge from this mount, but take into account the non-standard threaded connection.

The above-mentioned screw is located inside the cartridge; logically, you need to unscrew the cams as much as possible, in other words, “drown” them to the limit. This is what the action looks like in the photo:

How to further disassemble the drill chuck? Inside you can see the same screw that can be removed with a Phillips screwdriver. Having gained access to it, you need to unscrew it strictly clockwise with a good screwdriver. There are models of instruments where this screw is not installed. In this case, the cartridge is completely unscrewed from the shaft without any preparatory work.

A screw with a left-hand thread loses the clarity of its groove over time due to inaccurate changes in cutting tools. For convenience, you can hit the screw through the inserted screwdriver with a hammer. This action will deepen the groove without harming the tool.

When unscrewing, you can use a 14 key for convenience.

How then to remove the chuck from the drill? Everything is very simple: unscrew the screw or spindle with a left-hand thread and unscrew the cartridge itself by hand for replacement or repair.

Further replacement of the drill chuck

It’s not difficult - purchase a chuck suitable for the drill and install it along the threads in the same sequence.

How to quickly remove the chuck from a drill is shown in this short video:

When replacing, take into account the type of connection. There are two of them:

conical;
threaded

The threaded chuck is installed on the tool according to the above diagram.

It is important to know that the threaded cartridge is marked with two types:

1.5-13 M12*1.25;
1.5-13 1/2 – 20UNF.

1.5 – 13 - marking of the minimum and maximum diameter for the cutting tool installed in the chuck.

When replacing, observe this marking. If the chuck from your drill shows a value, for example, 1.5 -13 M12, then you should change it to a chuck with the same marking.

The cone type of connection is a little simpler. When replacing the cartridge, simply push it in. The following varieties exist:

It is interesting that any cartridge in the tool store marked “B” means exactly the conical mounting base. The numbers on the marking (from 10 to 18) are the diameter of the lower hole.

How to remove a flare chuck from a drill? The easiest way. The cartridge is dismantled using a regular hammer, knocking it off the pin.