Drill chuck - problems with replacement, repair and ways to resolve them. How to remove a chuck from a drill: video, how to change a quick-release chuck, disassemble and replace it, Interskol and Morse with a cone How to remove a chuck from an impact drill Interskol

Quick-release and keyed

Any craftsman who has a drill on his farm may encounter a situation where the drill chuck begins to hit (the center is lost) and the drill moves from side to side, as a result of which normal work will not work. Or the chuck's jaws are simply worn out, which can happen over time.
In this case, the cartridge should be replaced with a new one. How to choose it correctly?

There are several types of drill chucks. There are threaded ones, some are on a cone, which are simply pushed on and not screwed on. Let's consider them in more detail so as not to make a mistake when choosing.

Threaded chuck.

On thread

It is put on the drill by screwing it onto a threaded pin, which is located on the drill.
There are two main varieties threaded chuck. They differ in thread types.
They are marked (1.5-13 M12*1.25) and (1.5-13 1/2 - 20 UNF)

The numbers 1.5-13 indicate the maximum and minimum diameter of the drill shank that can be clamped into the chuck. The minimum is 1.5mm, the maximum is 13mm, 13.5 is also included, I checked it personally. On some chucks the minimum clamping diameter is 2mm.
M12 – means that the hole at the bottom is 12mm.
1.25 or 1/2 - 20 UNF is different types threads, the first is metric, the second is inch.

Choose correctly, the cartridges are not interchangeable, if there is a marking on the cartridge M12*1.25, then take that one. If M12*1/2 – 20 UNF – then only this one. If the inscription is erased, you will have to remove the cartridge from the drill and take it with you to the store.

How to remove it?
To do this, twist the cartridge counterclockwise. Sometimes the cartridge is additionally secured with a screw, which is located in the center,

this screw has a left-hand thread, i.e. unscrews clockwise, and not as usual - counterclockwise. First, unscrew the chuck (spread the jaws), then tighten the screw. After this, you can twist the cartridge itself counterclockwise; its thread is standard. It happens that this is very difficult to do, since over time it is very delayed. To remove, you can use it to grab tightly, for example, take number two. You can use the help of a friend: one holds the neck of the drill with one key, the second twists the cartridge itself with another key. Especially if the drill is old, it’s a little difficult without an assistant.

Cartridge on a cone.

They are put on by simple push-on. There are also several varieties: B10, B12, B16, B18. If there is a letter “B” in the marking on the cartridge, know that it is on a cone and there is no thread at the bottom.
The number in the cartridge marking indicates the diameter of the hole at the bottom. The larger it is, the larger the hole. In chucks B10, B12 you can clamp a drill with a maximum shank of 13mm. And B16, B18 allow you to clamp drills with a shank up to 16mm.
Such a cartridge should be removed by knocking it out of the drill, simply and simply using a hammer.
It is mounted on a special pin - a holder located on the drill.

There are cartridges with key, has quick-release fasteners(in the first photo).
The advantages of quick clamping include the fact that it is convenient to quickly change drills. The downside is that sometimes drills can turn, especially if the shank is cylindrical (round) and not hexagonal, especially when the drill for metal is of large diameter. The load is large, but you can’t tighten it by hand, which can’t be said about the “classic” cartridges, which are tightened with a key. In my opinion, this is much more reliable. The only negative is that you can lose the key, for this it is logical to screw it onto the drill cable with electrical tape so that it is always in its place.

There are chucks with a 1/4" hex shank that can clamp drills from 0.6mm.

What repair would be complete without a good drill and a set of drill bits! However, even the most reliable tool can jam during operation. Don't rush to panic! We will teach you how to change the drill bit in a drill and correctly diagnose other breakdowns.

Drill design - what do you need to know about the tool?

Every tool owner has had a jamming of a drill in a drill or screwdriver chuck at least once. To understand why this can happen, you need to understand how the drill works. This tool converts electrical energy into a mechanical one, which is possible thanks to an electric motor that spins the shaft. Through the gearbox and gears, rotation is transmitted to the fastener, in which the drill is fixed.

In addition to jamming, a loosely fixed drill can jump out of the fastener, and this is already fraught with quite severe injuries for the person working with the tool and others, given the speed of rotation modern devices. Therefore, never fasten the drill in a hurry; always disconnect the drill from the current to avoid accidental starting of the drill.

Fastening device – non-combat cartridge

The chuck is the fastener in which the drill is fixed. The fastener itself is screwed onto the tool spindle. Most often, drills are equipped with a jaw chuck. This design is a hollow cylinder with metal “fingers” inside. When you turn the adjusting ring, which is located outside the unit, the “fingers” converge or diverge along the inner cone-shaped surface. In such a “fist” you can clamp both a drill with a cylindrical shank and a hexagonal one.

Convenience and ease of use have made the cam mechanism popular. However, it is not without its drawbacks. One of them is the difficulty of working with small drills. Short product may simply fall inside. You can still secure it by placing the drill in a horizontal position, but you cannot press it hard while working. If another drill was inserted into the drill, you can remove it by turning the adjusting ring in the appropriate direction. It is not always possible to do this manually; for this purpose, there is a special key that acts like a lever, increasing the force. By the way, it is also not recommended to tighten the drill without a key - the larger the diameter of the drill, the more reliable the fastening should be.

When purchasing fasteners, make sure that they are rubberized - this way you will be less likely to injure your hands when securing the tool.

The quick-release fastener, the second most popular, can be operated without a key. Simply insert the drill and turn the lever; this can often be done with one hand. The drill fixation that this type of chuck provides is quite sufficient for most jobs, however, compared to the classic fastening option, it is inferior in reliability and is more expensive. The main advantage of a quick-release fastener is the speed of drill replacement and the safety of the process, since such a chuck is devoid of teeth that can injure your hands. The absence of a specialized key is also a significant advantage! Experienced builders know how easily it gets lost, so very often you can see a key taped to a wire with tape or tape.

True, this does not add convenience, but there is at least some confidence that you won’t have to look for the key throughout the construction site. How to change the drill bit in a screwdriver? The scheme is absolutely identical - the chucks of most drills are similar to the fasteners on screwdrivers. Of course, the latter tool cannot be a full-fledged replacement for a high-quality drill, if only because the fasteners are not provided for drills with a large diameter, and the speed of a screwdriver is usually lower.

How to change a drill bit in a drill - we can do it ourselves!

It is not always possible to remove a drill from the chuck in the usual way - as a result of heavy load or improper fixation, it can jam the chuck. How to get a drill out of a drill without damaging the fastener and the tool itself? First of all, try to cool the cartridge thoroughly. Sometimes this is enough for the cams to release the drill a little and you can pull it out.

The most proven method for removing a stuck tool is to tap the cams.. To do this, the free end of the drill is fixed in a vice, a wooden strip is applied to the chuck, through which tapping is carried out. This vibration can cause the chuck to loosen its grip and release the tool. This method will be useful for both owners of classic fasteners and owners of quick-release fasteners. Sometimes removal becomes possible after lubricating the drill with machine oil or the popular WD-40 lubricant.

The latter method is better, because thanks to the spray, the substance will quickly reach the desired points of contact between the drill and the chuck. In any case, after lubricating you will need to wait a little for the substance to penetrate deeper. Sometimes, especially difficult cases, the problem is solved only after dipping the entire cartridge into machine or vegetable oil. If neither one nor the other is at hand, you can make a “bath” for your drill from gasoline. You need to keep the cartridge in the liquid for at least an hour. By combining methods, you will be able to remove a jammed drill even faster.

How to replace the chuck - updating the drill

Most often, the cartridge is the first to become unusable in a drill. Dismantling it at home is not easy, but it is possible! The fastener is screwed onto the spindle itself, but in addition it is also secured with a bolt with a left-hand thread. In order to get it out, you need to completely open the cartridge - it is inside. The whole difficulty of unscrewing it lies in the fact that many do not know about the left-hand thread, and when trying to unscrew it, they twist it even more, tear off the cap and eventually take it to the service center.

By unscrewing the bolt, you can also unscrew the cartridge itself, although this is not so easy to do. Some models have recesses at the base of the thread for a wrench - in this case, you can fix the spindle and unscrew the fasteners using a lot of force. The real difficulty comes when there are no wrench cuts. You will have to remove the housing cover to secure the spindle inside the drill. Difficult, but doable.

Removing a cartridge is one thing. Finding a new one is a completely different matter. In addition to the methods for clamping the drill, which are described above, different cartridges also different carvings! The surest way not to confuse anything is to take an old cartridge with you and demonstrate it to the seller, or choose the right one based on the layout. When you have completed this task, all that remains for you is to screw the chuck onto the spindle and screw in the bolt, which in our case is screwed counterclockwise.

The most popular tool in the household is an electric drill. IN lately Electric drills, called rotary hammers, are especially popular.
This tool allows you not only to drill a hole, but also, using attachments, to tighten nuts, self-tapping screws, and screws. An electric drill is a reliable tool and rarely fails. How to troubleshoot electric drills. The main faults in electric drills are divided into mechanical and electrical.

Mechanical problems

Common mechanical failures include failure of the clamping chuck.
How to remove the chuck from a screwdriver and replace it?
Let us immediately note that replacing the cartridge on an electric drill, screwdriver, or hammer drill is absolutely the same.
The reason the chuck comes out is most often due to wear on the clamping jaws. This is the most serious malfunction of an electric drill. You cannot do without completely replacing the clamping chuck. The video will show you how to remove the chuck from the drill.

By the way! The given method for replacing the cartridge is suitable for any modern models not only electric drills, but also hammer drills, screwdrivers, since all the above designs provide for just this method of attaching the chuck.

But in Soviet-made drills, the chuck is held on a Morse taper and tightened with a screw. How to remove the cartridge from the cone? To do this, you can use a bearing puller or knock it down with a hammer.

Attention! When purchasing a new power tool with a chuck, be sure to remove the chuck and thoroughly lubricate all contacting parts and threads.

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1. Procedure for replacing the jaw chuck of an electric drill
To disassemble the electric drill, check that its cable is disconnected from the electrical network.
Using a special wrench, open the chuck jaws to the maximum possible position.
If you look inside the open chuck, you will most often see a screw designed to secure the jaw chuck to the motor shaft.
As a rule, the screw is unscrewed using a Phillips screwdriver.
Remember! The thread of the fixing screw is left-handed, and it is unscrewed by turning the screwdriver clockwise.
Unscrew the screw, insert an L-shaped hex key into the chuck in place of the drill and tighten it.

If the head of the screw is worn out and you cannot unscrew it with a screwdriver, proceed this way.
Take a second drill, insert a drill bit the diameter of the screw head into it and start drilling out the screw. It will all end with the screw coming out when drilling.

Insert the open-end wrench onto the motor shaft at the base of the chuck. There are models in which the gap between the chuck and the body is very small. You'll have to pick up the key or cut it to thickness. A key is required to secure the motor shaft.
Models of earlier releases do not have key slots on the shaft. In this case, you need to disassemble the drill body and remove one cover. Simultaneously clamp the driven gear of the cartridge shaft and the cooling fan and try to unscrew the cartridge with a sharp counterclockwise movement.

But let's return to the option with a key.
Now, placing the drill on a wooden plane and fixing the shaft with a wrench, hit the protruding tail of the hex key counterclockwise with a wooden or rubber hammer.
The cartridge is attached to the shaft via a thread.
Rotate the chuck counterclockwise to remove it from the electric drill.
If you don't have an L-shaped hex key, you can use a drill of a suitable diameter, which is pressed into one of the three holes for the clamp key.

Examine the cartridge. If the jaws completely fail, replace the drill chuck with a new one. Install the new chuck onto the drill by performing all steps in reverse order.
Remember! When installing a new chuck, be sure to lubricate all rubbing parts. This is especially true for threaded connections.

We looked at the case when it is necessary to replace the jaw chuck. But power tools are also produced with quick-release chucks.

Keyless chucks allow you to change the drill in a matter of seconds, without using any additional tools or accessories.
Quick-release chucks are divided into single-clutch and double-clutch chucks.
The design of a single-sleeve chuck is equipped with special mechanism, which blocks the shaft when changing the tool. The replacement operation can be performed with one hand.
With a double-coupling chuck, tool changes are performed with both hands. The first coupling is held with one hand, and the other coupling is twisted with the second hand.
But quick-clamping designs do not securely secure the tool, especially in impact mode. And the use of plastic for their manufacture often leads to cartridge failure.
The jaw chuck is more reliable, and the parts used in it are made only of metal. To secure the tool, you must use a special clamping wrench.

Ways to remove a keyless chuck from a drill or screwdriver

The cartridge is mounted on an axis along the thread and locked with a clamping screw.
The quick-release chuck is removed using the same algorithm as the jaw chuck.
First, unscrew the locking screw clockwise. If there are key flats on the shaft near the chuck, then insert the key into the grooves, hold some lever in the chuck, and try to unscrew the chuck by rotating it counterclockwise.
Installing a new cartridge occurs in the reverse order.

But the cartridge can be repaired
In order to inspect the parts of the chuck, it must be disassembled.
We offer a proven and reliable method for disassembling the chuck of an electric drill.

Take a regular hammer drill, remove the boot from it and insert the adapter. An adapter can be made from a broken impact drill. The adapter is a drill shank with a cut off drilling part.
Place the cartridge on the adapter shaft and press it with a rubber shock absorber or a wooden board.
Before installing the chuck on the adapter, it is necessary to insert the jaws into the chuck until they are completely immersed.

After assembling the structure, turn on the hammer drill in impact mode. After 3...5 seconds the cartridge should sort itself out.
Immediately you need to mark the cams and locations in different colors.
Now you can begin to inspect and troubleshoot the cartridge.
If necessary, the cams can be replaced with new ones. True, you can’t do without additional boring of the cams on a lathe.
The remaining parts can be easily replaced if available.

But there are other mechanical faults
There are cases when the failure of an electric drill is caused by a failure of the gearbox or bad work bearings.

2. Procedure for working with the electric drill gearbox
To get to the gearbox, you need to disassemble the plastic housing of the electric drill.
After removing the housing cover, release the chuck shaft and remove it. A driven gear of larger diameter is attached to the shaft.
A small-diameter spiral-shaped drive gear is attached to the electric motor shaft.
There is a bronze bushing in the gearbox housing, which most often leads to failure of the drill. Everything happens due to its significant wear and tear.
Check the dimensions of the bushing and order it from a turner. Use bronze as a material, but caprolon can also be used.
When replacing a bushing in a gearbox, be sure to check the bearings, their tightness and filling with lubricant.
If the gear teeth are very worn, they will have to be replaced. Gear teeth wear out when the support sleeve fails.
Most often, the driven gear with a larger diameter wears out. Replacing it is simple, you just need to remove the retaining ring and key.
The old gear must be removed from the chuck axis. You can use a puller, or you can just gently knock it down with a hammer, using wooden supports.

Electrical faults
Now let's try to look at the characteristic faults of the electrical part of the drill.
Most often, the operation of an electric drill is interrupted due to wear on the brushes.

1.Replacing brushes in an electric drill
To replace the brushes, you need to remove the side cover of the electric drill housing by unscrewing the fastening screws. There must be at least 7 of them.
The housing is removed by carefully prying up its edges with a screwdriver.
Having opened access to the electric motor, you will see two boxes in which the brushes are installed.
In order to get the brushes, you need to release the boxes, bend the holders and remove the worn brush. Do the same with the second brush.
Install new brushes in the vacant areas and wipe the area around the contact area with a clean cloth soaked in white spirit.

2. Repairing the power cord of an electric drill
One of the unpleasant malfunctions is the periodic stopping of the electric drill during operation. Most often this happens due to an arbitrary loss of power supply. The whole point is that when entering the drill body, the power cable experiences various loads, which lead to wire breakage.

To fix the problem, you need to remove one of the side covers of the case. Use a tester to check the integrity of the cable.
If damage is detected at the point where the cable enters the housing, but the failed piece is cut off from the cable, a 20 cm piece of rigid vinyl chloride tube is put on the cable and the cable is installed in place and then connected.

To replace the button with the speed controller, simply remove the housing cover and disconnect the wires from the controller. The new regulator is installed in the same place and connected according to the diagram. If there is no diagram, then before removing the old regulator, you need to sketch out the connection diagram.

3.A spark appeared inside the case
The occurrence of sparking inside the housing is most often caused by an interturn short circuit of the armature windings.
The second reason that causes sparking is the contaminated surface of the collector lamellas.
Interturn closure can only be determined with a special device.
But you can remove dirt from the collector part yourself using fine sandpaper. After cleaning, you must carefully remove dust from the grooves between the contact plates, called lamellas. The best way to do this is with an old hacksaw blade. At the end of the work, the anchor must be checked with a PPYa device.

These are, perhaps, the main malfunctions of electric drills of any brand.

During construction and repair work, a drill is often used. When working intensively with this tool, the bit or drill often becomes loose or falls out. In most cases, the situation can be corrected by tightening the cartridge. If this does not solve the problem and the drill continues to fall out, the drill chuck needs to be replaced or repaired.

Types of cartridge

One of the main parts found in the design of a drill, hammer drill or screwdriver is the chuck. The drill, bit and other working devices are mounted in it between several parts called cams. Based on the design of the cam mechanism drill chuck It can be quick-clamping or key-type. In the first type, the drill is fixed manually after applying a little force.

The key mechanism requires the use of a special key. In the body of such a cartridge there is:

Collet. Hardened cylindrical bushing with a cavity inside.
Adjustment clip. It is attached to the outside of the collet and can rotate.

On one edge of the sleeve there are steel petals that allow you to install a drill, reamer, or tap. The rotating holder makes them move along the guides. Depending on the direction of movement, the petals either come closer or move away from each other, clamping or releasing the device installed in them. To ensure the most rigid fixation of the drill, a special key or coupling is used.

Reasons for replacement

The main function of the clamping mechanism is to ensure maximum precision in the hole drilling process. As the drill is used, the seats and steel jaws wear out. The following signs indicate this:

The cartridge flies off the shaft.
The axis of rotation shifts during drilling.
The drill does not lock or cannot be removed.

Each of these situations is unsafe, so if it occurs, you should stop working with the drill and repair or change the chuck.

The drill has a special threaded short-pitch fastening that holds clamping mechanism. In addition to it is a screw with a left-hand thread, located at the outer end of the shaft and acting as a control clamp. To securely fasten parts when assembling drills in production, all connections are treated with a sealing compound, which serves as an adhesive layer and protects the metal from corrosion and oxidation after exposure to moisture. This must be taken into account before disassembling the drill chuck.

Do-it-yourself dismantling

To repair or replace a part, it is necessary to correctly remove it from the structure. To do this, you will need to move the cam clamps apart (as far as possible) and unscrew the main fastening screw. Due to the action of centrifugal force or due to the lack of sealant on the thread, it can be very securely fixed in the mounting hole, so great effort will be required during the dismantling process.

This screw has a Phillips-shaped slot, so disassembly is best done using a similar type of screwdriver. Using a mechanical impact screwdriver may break the slots. In this case, additional replacement of the gearbox shaft will be required. To remove the chuck from the thread, you must prevent the shaft from rotating. To do this, the shaft should be kept stationary while twisting. using an adjustable wrench.

Another method of fixation is to manually hold the gears from turning. To do this, you will first need to remove the gearbox housing. If the chuck is of a key type, then to stabilize the shaft it will be enough to insert the key into the hole and set it motionless.

Some drill models use a Morse taper rather than a thread for connection. In this case, after unscrewing the mounting screw, you will need to position the drill vertically using a vice so that the chuck is at the bottom. Then knock it out of the mounting hole using a rubber or wooden mallet. In this case, be sure to use an open-end wrench as a gasket. You should hit it carefully to avoid damaging the body and main parts of the drill.

Mechanism repair

Once the clamping part is removed from the drill, it is necessary to determine whether it can be repaired. If molded plastic and rolled metal were used for its manufacture, its disassembly will lead to a violation of the basic properties of the materials and dynamic characteristics. It will be impossible to use such a mechanism in the future. If the cartridge turns out to be collapsible, you can try to repair it yourself. The recovery process will depend on the nature of the problem.

Vibration during drilling or slipping from the axis indicates that the fastening screw has broken. It can occur due to sudden impacts or lateral loads. To solve the problem, you will have to drill out the broken fastener and replace it with a new one.

Another common problem- jamming of the clamping jaws - can happen due to the use of drills with a diameter that is too large and does not match the size of the hole in the chuck. Excessive use of lubricant can also lead to this. Dust and debris generated when drilling in large quantities, stick to the lubricant and severely clog the mechanism.

Thorough cleaning of the parts will correct the situation. However, the use of a cleaned cartridge will be possible if the threads inside it are intact. Otherwise, the part will need to be replaced. To avoid clogging of the cam structure in the future, the use of a special protection that fits onto the drill and prevents dust from getting inside will help.

Reassembling the structure after completion of the repair should be done in the reverse order. At the same time, you need to pay special attention how reliably the leading element is fixed in the conical recess of the cartridge. Final fixation can be carried out if their longitudinal axes completely coincide.

The joints between parts must be treated with sealant. You can use the drill after it is completely dry. This will take about 10-12 hours.

If the problem does not disappear during operation of the device, this means that the repair or installation was carried out with errors. To eliminate them, you will have to dismantle the device again.

It's hard to imagine a home without an electric drill. This is almost every man's favorite instrument.

Usually the user does not worry about the drill, works for himself with the tool, and let it work. But then a strong beating of the drill appeared or the clamping mechanism jammed, and repairs loomed on the horizon. It became necessary to remove or even disassemble the cartridge. This is where some inexperienced craftsmen will need advice on how to perform necessary work without damaging the drill completely and irrevocably. To begin with, you should familiarize yourself with information about the types of cartridges and methods of attaching them to the drill.

Design features

Main types of cartridges for household drills the following:

quick-clamping or BZP, easy to use, allowing you to easily and quickly change tools, but strength and durability are not too high; nevertheless, drills with quick-release chucks (with one or two clutches) are deservedly popular;
toothed, requiring the use of a special key.

There are also other varieties, for example, SDS+ and SDS-max from Bosch. But it is not worth dwelling on this issue in detail, since the type of chuck according to the method of clamping the drill does not affect the method of attaching the chuck to the drill spindle.

Attaching the chuck to the spindle of an electric drill

Actually, There are two mounting methods:

cone mate;
threaded connection.

You can find out the type of fastening by the marking:

the inscriptions B10, B12, B18, etc. characterize the parameters of the Morse cone, the special shape of the mating surfaces (in total there are 9 standard sizes from B7 to B45); before this designation, the range of drill shank diameters is marked, for example, 1−6 B10;
type designations 1−15 M13×1.3; characterizing the parameters of a metric thread (the diameter of the drill shanks, the diameter of the thread and its pitch);
abbreviation UNF (the full marking is similar in structure to the marking of metric threads, for example, 2−13 mm ½ - UNF, where ½ denotes the diameter of the thread in inches, and the number 20 characterizes the number of threads of thread per length of one inch), which indicates fastening using an inch thread ; this type of connection is typical for imported instruments.

Technology for removing the chuck from an electric drill

To perform this operation The following tools may be required:

The tool is first removed from the chuck. Key cartridge can be unlocked without a key by inserting the drill shank into the hole.

Dismantling with conical mating

This pairing option should not cause disassembly difficulties.

If there is a fixing screw, remove it.

It is recommended to orient the tool with the drill down and remove the cartridge by light tapping hammer (to protect mechanisms from damage, the best option is to strike the cartridge body with a rubber or wooden mallet through a gasket - an open-end wrench).

If you have a tool for removing bearings, it is better to use it.

Dismantling with a threaded connection

In this case The disassembly order is as follows:

The cams are recessed as far as possible, since at the bottom of their socket there is the head of the internal screw, which must be reached with a screwdriver. However, the presence of a screw is not mandatory.
Use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw from the spindle; the fixing screw has a left-hand thread, that is, it is unscrewed by rotating the screwdriver clockwise. If you have difficulty turning the screw, you can lightly tap it with a hammer through a screwdriver.
The cartridge is unscrewed from the shaft like a regular nut with a right-hand thread, that is, by rotating counterclockwise. If the process is difficult, it is recommended to use two keys. The spindle is fixed with an open-end wrench, and the chuck is unscrewed with a gas wrench. You can insert a thicker hexagon into the jaws and unscrew the cartridge with it.

If the operation still fails, you will have to disassemble the body of the electric drill to gain access to the spindle.

And one more tip: if during disassembly the screw turns out to be damaged, then you can purchase an adapter for