Which drill chuck is better? Chuck for quick-release drill

The drill chuck is classified as a collet chuck. Collet chucks are used to secure a drill, a cold rod, or clamp a cold metal workpiece. The classic chuck consists of a hardened clamping sleeve and 3 identical lobes (cams).

The collet is a central bushing made of strong, hardened steel. In the cartridge device it is installed centrally. There are 3 cuts in it, which form absolutely identical clamping petals (cams). As the diameter decreases, the petals are pressed closer to each other.

The first power drill chucks were a cylinder with an adjustment wheel on the surface. Next, an adjusting sleeve was added to the device.

The cylinder is still attached to the shaft of the drill or screwdriver. WITH reverse side they are already “installing” the nozzle.

It is most convenient to attach drills, cutters and taps with small shanks to the drill chuck. This tool It is secured inside the cartridge with a collet, pressing inward with the cams.

The following options are typical for the jaw chuck:

• key;
• gear-crown;
• quick-release;

Chuck for mechanical and electric drill also called drilling. The main advantage of the drill chuck is the range of diameters for the nozzles.

Qualitative drill chuck allows the use of drills from 1 - 2 millimeters to 20 - 25 millimeters. IN this element The drill has no significant drawbacks other than the cost of the cartridge itself.

Types of drill chucks

For household and professional drilling equipment, a keyless keyless chuck is used.

With such a clamp, you can change the drill in a couple of seconds without resorting to the help of a handy wrench. By pressing firmly with your palms, you loosen the mechanism, which will allow you to release the cutting tool from the chuck. In the same way fix the drill for further work. This type The chuck works due to a corrugated metal sleeve and a locking spindle.

The disadvantages of a quick-release chuck include unstable clamping. An already worn quick-release chuck does not properly fix large-diameter drills, which leads to turning. Typical for a round shank.

The key jaw chuck must be loosened and clamped with a special key, which can easily be lost over time in work situations. Interestingly, more experienced users drilling tool they prefer a chuck with a key, since a drill or cutter can be clamped “tightly”, for example, even in a vice.

When purchasing a drill, screwdriver or hammer drill with a key jaw chuck, immediately secure the key from the kit to the wire with insulating tape or tie it to a strong cord. There will never be any problems changing the drill.

Mini drill cartridges are very popular among radio amateurs. Such elements are sometimes placed on a drill or mini drill. Can be installed on any tool suitable for drilling. For example, jewelry makers will not be able to perform work without this fastener.

Most often, mini chucks are used for a light drill or household screwdriver. The optimal drill diameter for a mini chuck is from 0.1 to 4.5 millimeters.

It is very convenient to drill microcircuits, mini models and jewelry.

The mini chuck has the simplest quick-release design collet chuck. Most often made of brass.

How to remove and change a cartridge with a threaded connection

A threaded drill chuck is installed on the shaft of a power tool and secured by the left-hand thread of the screw. You need to remove the damaged cartridge from this mount, but take into account the non-standard threaded connection.

The above-mentioned screw is located inside the cartridge; logically, you need to unscrew the cams as much as possible, in other words, “drown” them to the limit. This is what the action looks like in the photo:

How to further disassemble the drill chuck? Inside you can see the same screw that can be removed with a Phillips screwdriver. Having gained access to it, you need to unscrew it strictly clockwise with a good screwdriver. There are models of instruments where this screw is not installed. In this case, the cartridge is completely unscrewed from the shaft without any preparatory work.

A screw with a left-hand thread loses the clarity of its groove over time due to inaccurate changes in cutting tools. For convenience, you can hit the screw through the inserted screwdriver with a hammer. This action will deepen the groove without harming the tool.

When unscrewing, you can use a 14 key for convenience.

How then to remove the chuck from the drill? Everything is very simple: unscrew the screw or spindle with a left-hand thread and unscrew the cartridge itself by hand for replacement or repair.

Further replacement of the drill chuck

It’s not difficult - purchase a chuck suitable for the drill and install it along the threads in the same sequence.

How to quickly remove the chuck from a drill is shown in this short video:

When replacing, take into account the type of connection. There are two of them:

• conical;
• threaded

The threaded chuck is installed on the tool according to the above diagram.

It is important to know that the threaded cartridge is marked with two types:

• 1.5-13 M12*1.25;
• 1.5-13 1/2 – 20UNF.

1.5 – 13 - marking of the minimum and maximum diameter for the cutting tool installed in the chuck.

When replacing, observe this marking. If the chuck from your drill shows a value, for example, 1.5 -13 M12, then you should change it to a chuck with the same marking.

The cone type of connection is a little simpler. When replacing the cartridge, simply push it in. The following varieties exist:

It is interesting that any cartridge in the tool store marked “B” means precisely the conical mounting base. The numbers on the marking (from 10 to 18) are the diameter of the lower hole.

How to remove a flare chuck from a drill? The easiest way. The cartridge is dismantled using a regular hammer, knocking it off the pin.

How to remove a cone chuck from an electric drill - video

Quick-release and keyed

Any master who has an electronic drill on his farm may encounter a situation where the drill’s chuck begins to peel (the center disappears) and the drill moves from side to side, as a result of which normal work will not work. Or the jaws on the chuck are simply worn out, which can happen over time.
In this case, the cartridge should be replaced with a new one. How to choose the right one?

There are a number of types of drill chucks. There are threaded ones, some are on a cone, which are simply pushed on and not screwed on. Let's look at them in more detail so as not to make a mistake when choosing.

Threaded cartridge.

On thread

It is put on the drill by screwing it onto a threaded pin, which is placed on the drill.
There are two main varieties threaded chuck. They differ in thread types.
They are marked (1.5-13 M12*1.25) and (1.5-13 1/2 - 20 UNF)

Markings on cartridges

The numbers 1.5-13 indicate the largest and smallest diameter of the drill shank that can be clamped into the chuck. The small one is 1.5mm, the largest one is 13mm, it also goes up to 13.5mm, I inspected it personally. On some cartridges the small clamping diameter is 2mm.
M12 means that the hole at the bottom is 12mm.
1.25 or 1/2 - 20 UNF is different kinds threads, 1st metric, 2nd inch.

Choose correctly, the cartridges are not interchangeable, if there is a marking on the cartridge M12*1.25, then take that one. If M12*1/2 – 20 UNF – then only that. If the inscription is erased, you will have to remove the cartridge from the drill and take it with you to the store.

How to remove it?
To do this, twist the cartridge counterclockwise. From time to time, the cartridge is additionally secured with a screw, which is placed in the center,

Left screw inside the chuck

this screw has a left-hand thread, i.e. unscrews clockwise, and not as usual - counterclockwise. First, unscrew the cartridge (spread the jaws), then tighten the screw with a regular Phillips screwdriver No. 2. After which you can twist the cartridge itself counterclockwise; its thread is standard. It happens that this is very difficult to do because over time it has become very, very long. To remove, you can use a pipe wrench to grab it firmly, for example, take number 2. You can use the help of a friend: one holds the neck of the drill with one key, the second twists the cartridge itself with another key. Especially if the drill is ancient, it is difficult without an assistant.

Cartridge on a cone.

Chucks on a cone, without thread

They are put on with a regular shackle. There are also several varieties: B10, B12, B16, B18. If there is a letter “B” in the marking on the cartridge, know that it is on a cone and there is no thread at the bottom.
The number in the cartridge marking means the diameter of the hole at the bottom. The larger it is, the larger the hole. In chucks B10, B12 you can clamp a drill with a maximum shank of 13mm. And B16, B18 allow you to clamp drills with a shank up to 16mm.
Such a cartridge should be removed by knocking it out of the drill, simply and simply using a hammer.
It is mounted on a special pin - a holder located on the drill.

There are chucks with a key, and there are quick-release chucks (in the first photo).
The advantages of a fast clamp include the fact that it is convenient to quickly change drills and self-tapping attachments. The downside is that the drills can turn from time to time, especially if the shank is cylindrical (round) and not hexagonal, especially when the metal drill is of huge diameter. The load is large, but you can’t really tighten it by hand, which can’t be said about the “classic” cartridges, which are tightened with a key. In my opinion, this is much more reliable. The only negative is that you can lose the key; to do this, it is wise to screw it onto the drill cable with electrical tape so that it is always in its place.

There are chucks with a 1/4" hex shank that can clamp drills from 0.6mm.

Quick-release and keyed

Any craftsman who has a drill on his farm may encounter a situation where the drill chuck begins to hit (the center is lost) and the drill moves from side to side, as a result of which normal work will not work. Or the chuck's jaws are simply worn out, which can happen over time.
In this case, the cartridge should be replaced with a new one. How to choose it correctly?

There are several types of drill chucks. There are threaded ones, some are on a cone, which are simply pushed on and not screwed on. Let's consider them in more detail so as not to make a mistake when choosing.

Threaded chuck.

On thread

It is put on the drill by screwing it onto a threaded pin, which is located on the drill.
There are two main types of threaded chuck. They differ in thread types.
They are marked (1.5-13 M12*1.25) and (1.5-13 1/2 - 20 UNF)

The numbers 1.5-13 indicate the maximum and minimum diameter of the drill shank that can be clamped into the chuck. The minimum is 1.5mm, the maximum is 13mm, 13.5 is also included, I checked it personally. On some chucks the minimum clamping diameter is 2mm.
M12 – means that the hole at the bottom is 12mm.
1.25 or 1/2 - 20 UNF is different types threads, the first is metric, the second is inch.

Choose correctly, the cartridges are not interchangeable, if there is a marking on the cartridge M12*1.25, then take that one. If M12*1/2 – 20 UNF – then only this one. If the inscription is erased, you will have to remove the cartridge from the drill and take it with you to the store.

How to remove it?
To do this, twist the cartridge counterclockwise. Sometimes the cartridge is additionally secured with a screw, which is located in the center,

this screw has a left-hand thread, i.e. unscrews clockwise, and not as usual - counterclockwise. First, unscrew the chuck (spread the jaws), then tighten the screw. After this, you can twist the cartridge itself counterclockwise; its thread is standard. It happens that this is very difficult to do, since over time it is very delayed. To remove, you can use it to grab it tightly, for example, take number two. You can use the help of a friend: one holds the neck of the drill with one key, the second twists the cartridge itself with another key. Especially if the drill is old, it’s a little difficult without an assistant.

Cartridge on a cone.

They are put on by simple push-on. There are also several varieties: B10, B12, B16, B18. If there is a letter “B” in the marking on the cartridge, know that it is on a cone and there is no thread at the bottom.
The number in the cartridge marking indicates the diameter of the hole at the bottom. The larger it is, the larger the hole. In chucks B10, B12 you can clamp a drill with a maximum shank of 13mm. And B16, B18 allow you to clamp drills with a shank up to 16mm.
Such a cartridge should be removed by knocking it out of the drill, simply and simply using a hammer.
It is mounted on a special pin - a holder located on the drill.

There are cartridges with key, has quick-release fasteners(in the first photo).
The advantages of quick clamping include the fact that it is convenient to quickly change drills. The downside is that sometimes drills can turn, especially if the shank is cylindrical (round) and not hexagonal, especially when the drill for metal is of large diameter. The load is large, but you can’t tighten it by hand, which can’t be said about the “classic” cartridges, which are tightened with a key. In my opinion, this is much more reliable. The only negative is that you can lose the key, for this it is logical to screw it onto the drill cable with electrical tape so that it is always in its place.

There are chucks with a 1/4" hex shank that can clamp drills from 0.6mm.

Depending on the power source, drills are divided into three types.

Electric– the most common option. Power source – mains or battery. Networked models have significantly greater power and performance than battery-powered ones. They are designed for long-term continuous operation and a wide range of tasks.

Pneumatic-powered by force compressed air coming from the compressor. This tool is designed for increased loads (working with metal, thick concrete), it is more durable and wear-resistant. The advantage is high resistance to impacts environment(for example, to high humidity, which compares favorably with electric models).

Important advantage: absence electric motor makes the drill compact and lightweight. Such a tool is expensive.

Mechanical– driven by human muscle power. This tool is not designed for drilling hard materials and is used for working with plastic, plasterboard, fiber plywood, wood, and chipboard. Advantages: low price and the ability to work in places where there is no electricity.

Variety

Drill-screwdriver– designed for drilling holes in wood, metal, plastic, as well as tightening and unscrewing screws, self-tapping screws.

Screwdriver– in addition to tightening/unscrewing screws, it is used for drilling holes of small diameters only in soft materials.

Impact wrench– used for tightening/unscrewing fasteners: bolts, nuts, screws.

Cordless screwdriver– used for screwing or unscrewing small fasteners (screws, screws, self-tapping screws, etc.).

Drill-mixer– used both for drilling and for stirring liquid and semi-liquid materials using special attachments. Since these tools do not have a hammer function, they are recommended for drilling soft materials (such as wood).

Drills - mixers are equipped with an additional handle, which greatly facilitates the stirring process.

Type

Non-percussive instruments carry out only rotational movements. They are used for drilling soft materials (for example, wood), since when using tools with impact, such materials can split.

Impact instruments– in addition to rotational ones, they also produce reciprocal - forward movements. Used to work with hard materials (concrete, brick, etc.). They are universal because the impact function can be turned off and used as unstressed ones.

Compared to hammerless instruments, these instruments have greater productivity, but are more expensive. For impact wrenches, the impact mode involves tightening the nut with impact, and is usually not disabled.

Corner drills– used for work in hard-to-reach places (for example, under the engine hood) and limited space. The name “angular” is due to the design features of the tool - the gearbox on which the chuck is mounted is fixed at an angle of 90°.

Diamond Drills– used for working with very hard materials: reinforced concrete, asphalt, granite, natural stone. Such tools are characterized by increased power and are equipped with a reinforced chuck into which special drill bits with diamond-containing segments are installed. The diameter range of diamond bits is from 20 mm to 350 mm.

Power

This parameter directly affects the performance of the tool. Drills with a power of 500 W and above are capable of working with hard materials and producing large diameter holes. And drills with a power of up to 500 W and small drill bits are perfect for working with soft materials (for example, wood). Thus, a drill with a power of 500 -700 W.

Chuck type

Key cartridge (toothed)– in this chuck the drill is fixed using a special key. It is usually secured by three “cams”, symmetrically located around the longitudinal axis of the spindle. The disadvantages of a key chuck are that the key can be lost, and replacing a drill with it will take a lot of time.

Keyless chuck– in this chuck the drill is secured with a little hand effort.

There are one - and two-sleeve quick-release chucks. Single-sleeve(press - lock and auto - lock) are easy to use, two-sleeve equipped with two rotating rings - clamping and loosening.

The main advantage of a quick-release chuck is ease of use and time savings when replacing a drill. Despite the fact that the quality of the clamp is usually not inferior to the key one, when working with hard materials and under high loads, you should still use a key chuck.

Bit holder – Used only in screwdrivers.

The bit is a bit with a standard hex shank on one side and a slot on the other. The advantage is ease of use. To install a bit that is fixed in the chuck, just insert it until it clicks slightly, and to remove it, simply pull it out.

IN impact wrenches a special chuck is used in the form of an outer square, the dimensions of which can be 1", 1/2", 3/4". It should be noted that a set of hand tools with heads is suitable for attachments on a wrench. To do this, you need to select a model with a suitable chuck or use adapter.

Number of speeds

Models with the same speed rotate the same regardless of the type of materials or work. Drills that provide multiple speeds are characterized by increased functionality. For example, to tighten screws you need low speed, and for drilling holes in hard materials - the highest.

Universal drills have a two-speed gearbox - at low speed you can drill holes of large diameter, at high speed - small ones.

Modes

Pulse– the spindle does not rotate constantly, but periodically in measured jerks. This mode is the best option for using a drill as a screwdriver. If the head of a self-tapping screw or screw is torn off, the pulse mode will make it easy to unscrew it.

Impact drilling– in addition to rotary drill, reciprocating motion is also transmitted. Thus, the drill both cuts the material and hits it in the direction of drilling. Especially often used when working with hard materials. If necessary, the shock function can be disabled.

Chiseling– the rotational mode is turned off, and only reciprocating motion is transmitted to the drill. In this case, the drill only hits the material in the direction of movement. As a rule, it is found in rotary hammers, but also occurs in some models of professional drills.

Functions

Engine brake– allows you to save time when turning off the drill, since the drill stops completely within a few seconds. This makes it easier to operate the tool, since there is no need to hold the drill suspended while waiting for the drill to stop completely: for some models this time is ten or more seconds.

Reverse– changes the direction of rotation of the drill to the opposite using a switch. May be necessary to free a drill bit stuck in a material. In addition, this function can be useful when using a drill as a screwdriver. Reverse is provided in most instruments.

Electronic speed control– ensures high-quality work, increases the service life of the tool and its productivity. This is a special device that, depending on the given material and type of drill, determines the optimal rotation speed.

Anti-vibration system–reduces the vibration level of the tool. As a rule, expensive and professional drills are equipped with it.

Equipment

Additional handle– helps to correctly distribute efforts when working with the tool and reduce vibration, which is especially important when working with difficult-to-process material. It can be rigidly attached to the body, removable, or rotate around the body.

Battery operation– allows the drill to operate from autonomous power supply. The undoubted advantage of such tools is their high mobility. Therefore, battery operation is especially effective in places where there are no outlets, hard-to-reach places and in jobs that require frequent movement of workers.

Spot light– used for working in hard-to-reach places or when there is insufficient lighting. Built into the instrument body.

Safety (anti-lock) clutch– protects the drill motor from burnout. For example, when a drill jams when it hits reinforcement. In addition, the safety clutch protects the user from “ kickback", since when the drill suddenly stops, all the power of the drill is transferred to his hands. Most instruments are equipped with this device.

Drilling depth limiter– helps to make several holes of the same depth. It is a metal or plastic rod attached to the drill body. Used for drilling in a thin wall (for example, assembling furniture, etc.) so as not to make a through hole.

Dust collector– collects dust that is formed during the operation of the drill, especially when drilling concrete and brickwork. However, personal protective equipment against dust (respirators, masks, etc.) will also be useful.

Magnetic holder on the case– allows you to save time when replacing the drill during operation. Objects such as a drill or a key are fixed on the body, and not in the operator’s hands or pockets.

Case– designed for easy storage and transportation of the drill and its accessories.

Manufacturer

It is not recommended to purchase drills from little-known and some local manufacturers. For example, Elprom and Monolit-Kharkov. Most often, the tool fails very quickly, and problems with service are caused by the low popularity of the brands. Thus, main drawback These drills have very low reliability.

Knowledgeable craftsmen use a tool such as a drill with the following types of chucks: key and quick-release chucks. A drill chuck is a mandatory device designed for fixing drills and other types of drill attachments. Torque from the tool's electric motor is transmitted through gears to the chuck shaft, which is driven into rotation. The product in question plays an important role, so it is important that the device is of proper quality.

For drill use the following types cartridges:

• Gear-crown or they are also called key. main feature This device consists of using a special clamping key to secure the nozzle.
• Quick-clamping. Clamping of the nozzle is carried out by manual rotation of the clamping sleeve. In turn, quick-release fasteners are divided into several types: double-clutch, single-clutch and with a special retaining ring.

Gear-crown types are found quite often on electric drills, since a significant advantage of such a product is the quality of the clamping of the fixing nozzle. Such drill chucks allow you to install attachments with a diameter ranging from 1 to 16 mm.

The quick-release version is the most convenient to use, as it allows you to replace the nozzle quickly and without the need to use a key. To replace, you only need to manually unscrew the cartridge sleeve, then install the nozzle, and then fix it in the same way. This option is most popular for use in cordless drills and screwdrivers.

A significant disadvantage of the BZP is the unreliable fixation of large-diameter drills, especially when the mechanism elements wear out.

Due to such a significant drawback, it is necessary to periodically replace such a cartridge. To avoid the need for frequent replacement, craftsmen prefer a key type of chuck. This type guarantees reliable fixation of the attachments, unlike the BZP.

The only disadvantage of key products is that you constantly need to use a special key, which is often lost. To prevent the drill key from getting lost, it is recommended to fix it to the power cable of the tool.

The characteristics of the drill's keyless chuck allow it to be used in low-power tools. BZPs come with both a partially plastic construction and a completely metal one. The latter option is more reliable, but it often causes difficulties when unscrewing it by hand.

There is no definite answer to the question of which cartridge is better, since everyone chooses for himself what is more convenient for him. If you do not have to use the tool often, then it is more convenient to use the key type. If the work is carried out daily, and you plan to use only thin drills, then in order to save time and effort, it is better to take a BZP.

Design features

The design of a classic drill chuck is based on the use of a collet or cam mechanism. This type of cartridge allows you to clamp attachments in the jaws or petals of its mechanism various forms: hexagonal, cylindrical and square. The main design elements of key cartridges are:

• A body that has the shape of a cylinder.
• The sleeve that rotates on the outside of the mechanism.
• The collet or cam mechanism, which is located in the inner part of the mechanism and consists of 3 clamping petals.

An important role in collet mechanism petals play, which are made from durable steel, and have exactly the same shape. When the sleeve rotates, all three petals simultaneously move closer together. This type of fixation allows you to securely fix round-shaped drills, preventing them from turning inside the chuck. The maximum drill shank diameter for key or cam work is 16mm. Of course, there are cartridges with a larger diameter and with a different type of fastening, but they are already used on machine tools and are not used on drills.

How to replace a drill chuck with your own hands

Replacing and disassembling the chuck on a drill is not particularly difficult. Initially, you should find out what type of product is used on the tool: with a cone connection or a threaded one. The threaded connection is the most complex, so the technology for removing this type of product is as follows:

• The clamping blades move apart.
• In the inner part of the mechanism there is a screw for a Phillips screwdriver. If there is no screw, then the cartridge should simply be twisted off the shaft.
• Unscrew the screw, taking into account the fact that it has a left-hand thread.
• After unscrewing, you need to unscrew the product and replace it with a new one.

In the design of a large electric drill, they are often used key cartridges with cone connection. We will learn further how this type of replacement is performed.

• First, you can find out the labeling of the product you are using, and then purchase a similar one.
• The jaws move apart and the screw is unscrewed.
• Take a standard hammer and then apply light and sharp blows to the back of the clamping device, as shown in the photo below.
• After each blow, rotate the device in the direction shown by the arrow.

So in a simple way The product is being dismantled. Installation is much simpler, which requires inserting the product into the mounting part of the conical hole and securing it with a screw.

How to disassemble the cartridge can be seen in the video:

Possible problems when working with the cartridge

Drill chucks are an important part of the tool, so you should know the possible types of damage to this part. These include:

• Part falling out. The cases, although rare, are possible for conical types of cartridges. If the product has fallen off the cone of the tool, then the situation should be corrected as follows: heat the product in oil to 110 degrees, and then put it on the cone of the tool. If this procedure difficult to perform, the cartridge should be replaced.
• Jammed clamping jaws. If the jaws jam, which happens quite often, you will need to remove the product, disassemble it, clean it, lubricate it, and then return it to its place. These steps are described in the video.
• Beating. If beating occurs, it is recommended to try to find the cause. If the cause cannot be determined, the device must be replaced.

The interval and need to replace the cartridge depends on various reasons. They are strongly influenced by: operating features, the quality of the cartridge itself, and the manner of working with the tool. If the problem cannot be detected or resolved, it is best to purchase a new product.