How to heat a greenhouse in winter technology. Stove heating of a winter greenhouse

IN recent years Polycarbonate is widely used for the manufacture of greenhouses. This material is durable and at the same time quite elastic, which will allow you to create structures of rather complex geometric shapes. In addition, it has high light transmittance (up to 85% of solar radiation) and excellent thermal insulation. Due to the heat-insulating properties of the material, heating a polycarbonate greenhouse with other equal conditions will require less thermal energy than for glass or film structures. This will significantly reduce the financial costs of the winter crop grown in them.

All this has led to great demand for polycarbonate greenhouses, which, in addition to purely utilitarian use, have also become elements of landscape design in many suburban areas. Moreover, such a design can be purchased ready-made, made to order, or installed with your own hands without any problems.

Greenhouses are quite suitable for active use in winter, but this will require the installation of heating and lighting systems. If the structure is only warmed up, this will allow the greenhouse season to begin a month earlier than usual.

For heating greenhouses in winter and early spring it is possible to use various types heating, some of them are easy to do with your own hands, while others will require careful calculations and the involvement of specialists for installation.

The simplest is biological heating or so-called warm beds. In this case thermal energy is released due to the processes of decomposition of organic matter as a result of the vital activity of microorganisms. Serves as biofuel horse manure or compost based on it, which is placed under a layer of soil. The heat from the organic layer warms up the plant root system

Can be used in winter air heating due to the movement of heated air streams throughout the greenhouse. It is carried out using electric or gas heaters. Electric heat guns are quite powerful portable fans. In gas heaters, heating is carried out using heating pads distributed throughout the greenhouse area or the heated air is distributed using an air duct system.

An option for a winter heating system by heating the air is the use of convectors. Only in this case there is no forced spread of warm air, and its heating occurs due to convective flows, which contributes to a longer but uniform heating. Such devices are predominantly electric, but can also be gas.

Water heating of a greenhouse in winter is based on a pipeline system installed under a layer of soil and a heating boiler operating on one of the types of fuel: solid fuel, liquid fuel, electric or gas. Which of these types should I install to heat the greenhouse? in winter depends on the availability of specific fuel in the region.

Heating using a resistive cable is quite effective and popular among greenhouse owners. This electrical system uses two types of heat sources - a separate heating cable or ready-made heating mats. The cable is not only laid under the soil, but can also be laid in the walls of the greenhouse, providing effective heating even in severe winter cold.

Heating a winter greenhouse with IR radiation sources is considered today the most progressive method from the point of view of plant ecology.

Video “Heating a winter greenhouse”

Can I use IR?

The action of infrared heating sources in its own way physical essence similar to heating by the sun's rays. IR radiation does not heat the air, but the opaque objects that absorb it. Then, from the heated layer of soil, plant leaves, frame and other elements, heat is transferred to the air due to convection. The winter greenhouse warms up in the same way as a summer bed heated by the sun.

Modern IR heaters are lightweight and elegant. Installing such heating in a greenhouse with your own hands is not difficult. Their main elements are a ceramic emitter and a steel reflector polished to a mirror shine. Based on their design features, they can be divided into two main types: case-based and film or tape.

The first ones are mobile and can be fixed both on the walls and on the ceiling, lowering them to the required height. More modern cabinet IR heaters no longer have a flat, but a spherical radiating surface, due to which their dispersion angle reaches 120 degrees, which significantly increases the uniformity of heating.

Film IR heaters are permanently mounted in the ceiling. However, their loss of mobility is compensated by greater energy savings and higher uniformity of soil heating in a winter greenhouse.

These heaters mainly use electricity as their energy source. But they can also be gas or liquid fuel. This allows you to select the most optimal option in terms of cost savings during operation and ensure uninterrupted operation in the winter cold.

Do it yourself

A winter greenhouse must have efficient, reliable and economical heating. If you install it yourself, you need to take into account the climate, the advantages and disadvantages of various types of heating, as well as the ability to do the correct installation and configuration yourself. What kind of heating system will be used for a polycarbonate greenhouse depends on the specific situation.

When using biological heating, in addition to warming up the root system, the plants also receive vitamin supplements, and the evaporation helps moisten the soil. It is quite easy to install such heating in a greenhouse with your own hands and does not require constant monitoring. However, the heat generated by this will not be enough even in mild winter frosts.

Air heating quickly warms up the air in the greenhouse, which is important during a sharp cold snap in winter. The equipment can be equipped with thermostats, which will automatically maintain the required temperature. At the same time, using gas for a polycarbonate greenhouse can be quite profitable financially.

However, rapid heating also has a downside - the greenhouse also quickly cools down when the heat supply is stopped. Therefore, a winter power failure or gas interruption will lead to the death of plants. In addition, this dries the air and does not warm up the soil. If placing electric guns around the greenhouse and connecting them yourself is not a problem, then to make a gas system, especially when connecting not bottled gas, but main gas, you will need to involve a specialist.

It is easy to install a convection heating system for a greenhouse with your own hands. In addition, electronic control of the equipment makes it autonomous and automatic. Its disadvantages are the same as the air system - there is no heating of the ground and rapid cooling when the power is turned off, which is dangerous in winter frosts.

The water heating system warms up both the soil and the air in the greenhouse. In addition, the heated water after turning off the boiler will still be for a long time give off heat to environment. That is, in the event of an emergency shutdown, the winter cold will not immediately reach the plants in the greenhouse. But with such heating, the soil dries out greatly, which requires timely watering. In addition, not everyone can calculate and make such a system with their own hands without hiring a specialist for installation.

A winter greenhouse with a cable heating system allows you to create a favorable microclimate for plants, since in this case the soil and air are simultaneously warmed up. In addition, the use of special sensors and controllers makes it easy to program it to an effective heating level both in winter and during spring warming.

However, such heating will require calculations and some electrical knowledge for correct and safe installation. Also, if there is a power outage, winter frosts can destroy all the plantings, but connecting an electric generator will save the situation.

With infrared heating, a winter greenhouse provides plants with the most comfortable conditions for growth. The use of electronic control allows it to be integrated with the “smart home” system, which allows you to regulate the microclimate in different parts greenhouses depending on environmental conditions. It is not difficult to make such a system in a greenhouse with your own hands, and at the same time you can ensure uninterrupted operation in the event of a power outage.

Video “Automatic polycarbonate greenhouses”

Some greenhouses are equipped in a far from handicraft way, and have their own lighting, irrigation system and heating. Find out how it works in the video.

A spoon is for dinner, and a green cucumber is for the New Year. This addition to the Russian proverb is not controversial. No canned food can replace vegetables grown in your own greenhouse.

However, just the desire to create a “vegetable island” on the site is not enough. Heating a greenhouse in winter is the main stumbling block that causes difficulties for beginners.

What heating method is easy to implement and not too expensive? What technical innovations do greenhouse owners use to grow seedlings, vegetables and flowers? What are their pros and cons? We will answer all these questions in our review.

Types and methods of heating in greenhouses

All methods of heating greenhouses can be divided into auxiliary and basic. The auxiliary ones include solar radiation and biofuels. About the energy of the sun's rays creating greenhouse effect, everyone knows. The use of biofuels should be considered in more detail.

The decomposition of organic matter is accompanied by the release of a large amount of heat. Knowing this, experienced greenhouse growers in cold period years, horse, cow or pig manure is laid under the beds. To slow down the rate of decomposition it is mixed with straw or sawdust. The homemade “bioaccumulator” is covered with fertile soil on top and plants are planted. After a week, the process of heat release by organic matter begins. It lasts for several months. As a result, the earth warms up evenly, and the seedlings begin to grow together.

Economical and environmentally friendly solar and biomass heating methods have their drawbacks. In early spring, the energy of the sun's rays is not enough to fully warm up the greenhouse. Biofuel begins to “work” only at a sufficiently high temperature, which must be created by another heat source. These reasons explain their auxiliary status.

Main sources of heating for greenhouses

Effective heating of a polycarbonate greenhouse can be created in several ways:

A stove operating on solid fuel;
Gas boiler;
Electrical cable;
Infrared heater;
Heat gun;
Heat pump;
Solar liquid collector.

Stove heating

Heating a greenhouse with a stove is an “old-fashioned” way of maintaining above-zero temperatures. Despite its advanced age, it is still relevant. The idea of the method is to lay a long channel from the furnace, buried in the ground, through which hot gases move. They warm the soil, and the hot stove body radiates heat into the air.

This method has several advantages:

Low price and availability of solid fuel;
System autonomy;
Minimal maintenance costs.

Stove heating also has disadvantages:

The process cannot be automated;
The soil warms up in a narrow area along the smoke channel.

A modern option for heating greenhouses with solid fuel is the Canadian Buleryan stove. In its firebox, the process of burning wood is slow. Thanks to this, the frequency of fuel loading is reduced (2 times a day), and the heat output becomes uniform.

The Buleryan stove is a good budget solution for heating a greenhouse

Gas boiler

This heat generator is used very often in winter greenhouses. There are two ways to transfer heat from gas boilers:

Radiator;
Duct ("warm floor" principle).

The first option is implemented by installing heating registers - steel or aluminum radiators - along the walls of the greenhouse. The heat from them circulates in the room, warming the soil, plants and creating the air exchange necessary for their life.

Heating the greenhouse with a gas boiler (radiators and heated floors)

The second method will be understood by everyone who has encountered the installation of heated floors in their home. In this case, the gas boiler is connected to the system plastic pipes, laid over the entire floor area of the greenhouse. The bottom of the pipes is insulated with dense polystyrene foam. A layer of sand and fertile soil is poured on top of them.

Laying a heated floor pipeline in a greenhouse

The soft heat from water circulating through the pipes warms the roots of plants and the air above them to a height of up to 1.5 meters. Energy in this case is spent more economically and efficiently than with the radiator method.

The two heating options we considered with a gas boiler are equivalent in terms of operating comfort. Automation maintains the required temperature conditions around the clock, without requiring human intervention.

Electric cable heating

Enough new way heating the soil. It works on the “warm floor” principle. Installation of a heating electric cable is similar to the installation of a liquid ground heating system powered by a gas boiler.

The advantages of this heating method include:

low installation costs;
simple controls;
automatic temperature control;
uniform distribution of heat over the soil surface.

The total recommended cable power for ground heating is small (from 75 to 120 W per 1 m2). This means that the load on the electrical network from a small greenhouse (up to 24 m2 in area) does not exceed 3 kW and does not require laying a powerful power cable.

Installation diagram of a heating electric cable under greenhouse beds

It should be noted that in severe frosts the electric cable may not cope with heating the greenhouse. Large heat losses through glass walls require the installation of an additional heat source - a Buleryan solid fuel stove or a gas boiler.

Infrared heating

Using the same types of energy (electric and gas), this type of heater transfers it to plants not by circulating heated air or water. The bulk of the heat reaches the soil and plants instantly. It is carried by infrared rays.

The emitters are placed under the ceiling of the greenhouse or mounted on the wall frame. The option with electric infrared panels is suitable for private winter greenhouses with a small area (12-25 m2). If you want to place them in a larger room, you may encounter problems with the power supply. A dozen panels with a power of 1.5 kW each will create a large load on the network. Without laying a powerful cable, it will not be possible to fully use them.

IR emitters with gas burners are better in this sense. Their total power is unlimited. For stable operation, a gas network or bottled gas is sufficient.

Infrared gas heater

Advantages of infrared heating:

Uniform heating of the room is achieved.
The air does not dry out.
The growth of dangerous viruses and bacteria is suppressed.
Are being created optimal conditions for plant development.
Reduces dust circulation.

Heat guns

Despite their menacing name, these units are ordinary fan heaters that supply heated air to the greenhouse.

Depending on the type of energy used, heat guns are divided into electric, gas and liquid fuel (diesel, oil, gasoline). Depending on the method of heat transfer, direct and indirect heating devices are distinguished.

Direct heating heat guns are powered by electricity. The fan blows through the heated spiral, directing the air flow into the greenhouse room. Indirect heating is used in installations that burn diesel fuel or used motor oil.

Indirect heating heat gun

Because during combustion natural gas If a minimum of soot and soot is formed, then gas heat guns, like electric ones, operate according to a direct-flow circuit.

A winter greenhouse with heating only from heat guns is a rare occurrence. The reason is high energy consumption. Reviews from greenhouse owners pay special attention to this fact.

Therefore, in practice, these heat generators are used as backup ones. They turn on heat guns in severe frosts and in case of emergency breakdown of the main heating system.

Heat pump

Heating plants with heat accumulated over the summer in soil or a body of water is not a very common topic. The main reason is the high cost of the heat pump and its installation.

If the owner has the funds to purchase such equipment, then it is used in a comprehensive manner: for heating the house and heating the greenhouse.

The heat pump is included in the liquid subsurface heating system. It is not suitable for supplying radiators with hot water.

Heat pump for a greenhouse - environmentally friendly, convenient, but still expensive

Working from low-grade ground heat, it cannot heat water to a high temperature. It is used as the main source of energy in the spring. In winter greenhouses, the heat pump works in tandem with more powerful generators heat: gas boilers or slow burning stoves.

Solar collector

Let's say right away that photovoltaic panels ( solar battery) it is impossible to heat the greenhouse. The main task of this equipment is to generate electricity. Therefore, in practice, another type of equipment powered by radiant energy is used - a solar collector.

The principle of its operation is to heat water pumped through vacuum tubes laid inside a glazed panel. The water in them is heated to a high temperature and discharged into a multi-pipe pipeline laid under the soil.

On a sunny day, regardless of the ambient temperature, the solar collector provides heat to the greenhouse room. At night, you have to turn on another energy source - a gas boiler, a solid fuel stove or a heat pump.

Scheme of joint operation of a solar collector and a heat pump in a greenhouse:

Solar collector
Greenhouse room
Boiler
Heat storage tank
Heat pump
Circulation pump unit
Regulator valves
Soil heating circuit
Hydraulic accumulators
Soil temperature and moisture sensor
Controller
Automatic shut-off valves
Security automation
Geothermal circuit

As can be seen from the diagram, the operation of a solar installation paired with a heat pump is fully automated. Thanks to this, the desired temperature and humidity are maintained in the greenhouse.

Rating of greenhouse heating options

In conclusion, we will make a comparative analysis of the considered options for heating greenhouses.

The easiest way to organize heating is with gas boilers and stoves running on solid fuel. Gas installations are easy to automate and create a comfortable microclimate for plants without auxiliary heat sources.

Buleryan stoves are not very convenient to use (the need for periodic manual loading of firewood). Their main advantages are low fuel cost and high heat transfer.

In second place you can put infrared emitters, cable heating systems and solar collectors. They are relatively inexpensive, easy to install and operate automatically. However, in terms of the cost of energy spent on generating a unit of heat, they are significantly inferior to gas and wood.

Heat guns occupy the third step in our rating. They are easy to maintain, can operate automatically, but are not economical. Heat pumps are located in the same niche. Despite the minimal cost of energy, the price of these installations is high and pays off for a very long time (8-12 years).

Winter greenhouses are not just a place for growing vegetables, berries or flowers. This is the same line in personal history any homestead farmer, after whom you can deservedly consider yourself not just an amateur gardener, but a gardener with a mark of quality. However, construction is by no means a simple task, requiring a capital approach, certain skills and careful preparation. Therefore, we have prepared two interesting projects for you to help you as much as possible in this difficult but very interesting matter.

Without any exaggeration, we can say the following - today there are so many different options for constructing a winter structure for growing crops that for a detailed acquaintance with each of them, a separate book or, at least, a brochure should be written. As a result, we will not test your patience with opuses from the classical typology, but will simply pay attention to the main types of differences between them.

Greenhouse buildings for the cold period differ from each other in the following parameters.

By functionality

In them you can grow not only traditional garden crops, flowers, mushrooms (champignons, oyster mushrooms, etc.), exotic fruits and citrus fruits. Everything depends on what exactly you are going to cultivate. further process its construction and internal arrangement.

The adjoining structure is warm and reliable

By location relative to ground level

Heated greenhouse structures are usually divided into three types: deep into the ground, built on the surface of the ground, equipped on the top floor of an existing building (garage, barn, house).

According to architectural solution

There are many options - one, two or three slopes, horizontal, arched, combined, wall. The choice depends on your taste, financial capabilities, and the size of the future structure.

Arched winter garden

By appearance building materials

Buildings are conventionally divided into brick, wood, with a metal or PVC frame, glazed or with a polycarbonate coating, etc. In addition, combined designs are often found.

Capital structure with a brick base

By heating type

There are solar greenhouses with technical heating (water, gas, stove, electric), buildings using biofuel;

By planting method

They can be planted in a garden bed or in special containers mounted on racks.

Choosing a place

When choosing a location, you must first take into account three main factors. Firstly, the light mode. The greenhouse in winter should receive maximum quantity sunlight. Therefore, it is best to orient the building along its length from west to east. This is especially important for solar greenhouses.

Correct orientation

Secondly, it is necessary to take into account the directions of the “prevailing” winds. If gusty cold winds are not uncommon, be sure to consider wind protection. With the right approach, you will save significantly on heating.

Thirdly, position the building in such a way that the passage to it is wide enough and optimally comfortable. This will make it easier for you to build the greenhouse and subsequent operation..

Advice from a meteorologist
If, to protect against cold winds, you decide to build an additional fence or organize a hedge, remember that the fence should not be adjacent to the structure. For example, with a ridge height of 2.5 meters, the distance between the wall and the fence should be no less than 7-8 meters. This is due to the fact that the wind flow, having encountered a “monumental” obstacle, has the habit of rushing upward and going around the obstacle. This means that “for dessert” you will get a turbulence zone, which will actively remove heat from the walls of the structure. The narrower the distance between the building and the fence, the stronger the turbulence. The ideal protection option is a hedge 15-20 meters from the greenhouse.

We build a gable in-depth greenhouse made of brick

Scheme of gable construction

Now that we are already sufficiently armed with the necessary knowledge, we can get down to business. The greenhouse structure built according to this project is distinguished by its versatility. This structure is perfect for both central Russia and regions with a more severe climate. Here you can grow not only garden crops, but also some garden crops. Construction of this type will certainly be expensive. But believe me, it's worth it. Such structures are durable, convenient, and economical.

What does a greenhouse look like?

The building consists of two rooms: a working vestibule and a greenhouse. A heating boiler and a control unit for automated processes (watering, ventilation, lighting) are installed in the vestibule. This room must have a length of at least 1.5 m (optimally from 2 to 2.5 m). Among other things, the vestibule is used for preparing earthen mixtures and storing equipment. The walls of the vestibule are made of brick. Polystyrene foam or mineral wool are suitable as thermal insulation. The vestibule roof is covered with an opaque material (tar paper, corrugated iron roofing, etc.). The partition between the vestibule and the greenhouse can be permanent (with a door, of course) or made of a plastic or metal-plastic profile with double-glazed windows.

Sound advice from a digger
If you are building an in-depth greenhouse, you should adhere to the basic rule - the soil in the pit should be removed to the depth of the freezing layer. On average, this is 80-90 cm. The same rule applies when pouring foundations for non-deepened structures.

Foundation

On dense natural soils, the strip foundation is poured to a depth of 45-50 cm.

Walls

For the construction of capital walls in this project One brick masonry is used (wall thickness 25 cm). Window openings for installing greenhouse frames should be located 50-60 centimeters above ground level. The width of the spaces between the windows is approximately 50 or 75 cm (two or three bricks). Thanks to this, the plants will receive additional natural light.

Winter structure design diagram

Important tip from the builder
Here is another very interesting wall solution:

remove the brick or monolithic base (height - from 90 to 120 cm);

mount a metal, wooden or metal-plastic frame on it;

cover the frame with cellular polycarbonate.

Greenhouse frames must be equipped with transoms for ventilation. Alternative option– equipping frames with supply ventilation valves.

Roof

The gable roof shape will ensure free flow of atmospheric waters. The angle of inclination of the roof planes is 20-25°. The lower strapping beams (2 pieces) are laid along the side walls on roofing felt. The ridge beam is attached to the strapping beams using paired rafters.

harness and ridge - timber (section 120x150 mm);
rafters - timber (section 70x100 mm);

For the light-transmitting roof covering, double glass with a thickness of at least 4 mm is traditionally used. The roof is glazed using grooves (40x75mm) with gutters for condensate drainage. But today, polycarbonate honeycombs are increasingly used to cover the roof of winter greenhouses. This material has a number of clear advantages over ordinary glass. A winter greenhouse made of polycarbonate will serve you faithfully for at least 12 – 15 years.

Capital structure made of polycarbonate

Helpful advice from a glazier
When glazing the roof of a greenhouse, the glass is laid along the folds on putty (layer - from 1.5 to 2 mm.). It is best to start laying glass from the bottom trim beam and move up to the ridge. It is recommended to use natural drying oil compositions or modern plastic mixtures as putty. The glass is attached to the glass beads with a wooden or plastic bead using metal pins (20-25 mm). A layer of putty should also be applied between the glass and the bead.

To protect the walls from water leakage, a canopy made of galvanized profile is installed. The canopy should deviate from the plane of the wall by 6-8 cm. A drainage chute is laid along the inside of the canopy to collect and remove condensate coming from the grooves of the sprockets.

Selecting the heating type

Heating with electromats

Before building, you also need to decide on heating. The choice of heating depends on the usable area of your greenhouse. For small rooms with an area of no more than 15-20 m², stove heating is quite suitable. For more extensive forms of land tenure, we recommend paying attention to three possible options:

water heating;
electric heating;
heating with biofuel.

Horse manure – provides a temperature of 33-38°C (70-90 days).
Cow manure – up to 20°C (100 days)
Rotten bark – up to 25°C (120 days)
Sawdust – up to 20°C (14 days)
Straw – up to 45°C (10 days)

Biofuel is placed directly under the fertile soil layer. For proper heating of organic matter, it is important to ensure good aeration (air access) and maintain the required level of air humidity (65-70%).

Advice from an agronomist
When using biofuel, it is necessary to take into account its acidity level, as this affects the quality of the soil. The optimal acidity level for cow manure is 6-7 pH. Bark and sawdust form an acidic environment (5 pH), horse manure forms an alkaline environment (8-9 pH). In addition to the heating function, biofuel serves as a source of mineral nutrition for greenhouse plants. Spent biofuel is used as humus.

How to make an economical version of a greenhouse for winter

If finances do not allow you to build a permanent greenhouse, do not despair. With the right amount of ingenuity, you can achieve excellent results at minimal cost. We invite you to see for yourself. A video from the “Four Hundreds” program will tell you how to build a winter greenhouse simply and inexpensively with your own hands:

Sound advice from a businessman
If you plan to use your future greenhouse not only for growing fresh vegetables and herbs for the dinner table, but also for commercial purposes, you will need a building with a usable area of at least 50-60 m². Then the harvest will quickly recoup your costs. According to experts from the Ontario Farmers Association (Canada) perfect size commercial greenhouse for small farms – 100 m².

In order to get a good harvest and protect it from negative influences high humidity and fog, you need to take care of arranging a winter greenhouse. Often, when constructing greenhouses or greenhouses, summer residents use plastic film, but it requires annual replacement, which entails certain costs. In this article we will tell you how to build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, present photos and video installation instructions, and also demonstrate drawings, diagrams and types of polycarbonate greenhouses and profiles.

What is polycarbonate?

This building material is produced in the form of two-layer plastic sheets of varying thickness. Most often, when building winter greenhouses made of polycarbonate with their own hands, they use sheets with size 6x2.1 m with a thickness of 4.4 mm.

Polycarbonate has a number of obvious advantages, in contrast to polyethylene film and glass:

The material completely protects the crop in the greenhouse from the negative effects of UV rays.
Polycarbonate is characterized by high strength and is not damaged by light impacts (the strength is approximately 250 times greater, unlike simple glass).
Material scatters passing through it sunlight, that is, combustion of plants is excluded.
Withstands temperatures -45/+65C.
It is very easy to process and is easy to drill and cut.
Double-layer plastic has high thermal insulation.
The polycarbonate surface has dust-repellent properties, and the resulting dirt can be removed with ordinary water.
Polycarbonate weighs less than glass, which makes it much easier to transport and install.
Its price is similar to the cost of plain glass.
Polycarbonate does not burn, but upon contact with fire it melts.

How to care for polycarbonate?

In order for a polycarbonate winter greenhouse to be durable, it is necessary follow certain rules:

After studying all the features and benefits, you can start building a greenhouse with your own hands.

Construction of a polycarbonate greenhouse

It is advisable to make a drawing or design of the greenhouse, and also mark on the site the place where it will be located. The greenhouse will need a lot of free space away from buildings and trees to ensure large number warmth and light and good ventilation.

The project needs to show what the greenhouse will look like. In this case There are a number of options available:

the most common is an arched roof, especially when it is made of polycarbonate, but there are also difficulties in constructing an arched roof. The arch is made of metal pipes and angles, and for this you will need a pipe bender or you will have to buy ready-made arch structures;
The shape of greenhouses comes with a two- or one-pitched roof;
in order to conserve heat and save materials, sometimes they build a wall-mounted greenhouse with a tie-in to an existing building.

If the shape, dimensions, location are chosen, and the necessary drawings are available, then you can begin constructing the foundation. For a greenhouse, the foundation is very important, and the strength of the greenhouse depends on how high-quality the foundation is.

Technology for building a winter greenhouse

The best option for using polycarbonate is to cover winter greenhouses with plastic, metal or wooden frame.

In any case, for growing, you need to provide ventilation openings in the form of door and window openings. It is advisable to make the roof in the form of an arch, thereby increasing the air volume in the structure. The built-in lever system will allow you to open transoms built into the roof.

Important! The size of all transoms must be at least a quarter of the total roof surface. Additional ventilation will be provided by doors located in the end walls of the structure.

Foundation construction

The first step in building a winter greenhouse is to build a foundation, at the same time making barriers for the beds. For the frame, it is advisable to use square metal corners or pipes. First, they make the strapping, and then secure it to the foundation.

Types and structure of the foundation:

brick;
lumber;
tape;
stone.

Timber foundation. In terms of costs, it is relatively inexpensive, but does not last long, about 4 years, despite impregnation with an antiseptic. Over time, the tree will begin to rot. If you need to make a temporary greenhouse, then this foundation is the best. The construction of a timber foundation is done in this way:

Metal corners are driven in along the perimeter of the overall structure;
Wooden supports are fixed to the corners and driven into the ground;
Pre-prepared wooden blocks with a cross-section of 10x10 cm are laid around the perimeter of the base of the greenhouse.

Brick base differs in terms and quality of operation. If you build this foundation correctly, it will serve you for a very long time, but its construction will require quite a lot of bricks in order to support the weight of the entire structure. First, a cushion with waterproofing is constructed to protect against the action of wet soil. When constructing a brick foundation, ordinary cement mortar is used.

A stone foundation is an ideal option for building a polycarbonate greenhouse, since this foundation is durable and can withstand any weight load.

During manufacturing, this base is particularly complex. It must be taken into account that the laying of natural stone different shapes requires certain skills, and making a stone foundation with your own hands is quite a difficult task. For the solution it is best to use clay-sand mixture in proportion 1:1. This solution will contribute to thermal conservation. To prevent the clay from being washed away by water, the foundation must be plastered, and if it is uneven, then install the formwork and fill the edges with mortar.

In the manufacture of greenhouses, strip foundations are most often used. The main advantage of this foundation is that the time, money and effort spent are relatively small, but the result is simply excellent. Since this type of foundation differs from others in reliability and durability. To build it you will need:

a cushion that protects the base from subsidence;
log formwork;
concrete solution.

Construction of a strip foundation it happens like this:

The pillow is made of sand or gravel;
Afterwards, the formwork is attached to the shape of the structure and filled with concrete to a width of 35-45 cm and a depth of about half a meter.

This technology will ensure the reliable strength of this foundation.

How the greenhouse is attached:

Polycarbonate profiles

Plays a very important role properly designed frame made of quality materials, one of them is the profile. We will not dwell in detail on the factory profiled structures, since in the purchased kit you can find detailed instructions for constructing the frame. Let's focus on the most economical method of framing - a frame made from a plasterboard profile. A structure with rounded shapes will not work, but the frame will be quite reliable to contain wind and snow loads. Let's consider main advantages of use this material for constructing the frame:

Convenient to attach polycarbonate sheets.
The profile is galvanized, so it is not afraid of moisture.
Low price.
The construction is quite lightweight.
The ability to make a frame with your own hands, without the help of assistants.

Important: If the greenhouse is quite large, then it is advisable to buy a wall profile, since it is more durable.

First, you need to make a drawing or draw a sketch of the future greenhouse, taking into account the dimensions. Then, using this data, cut the workpieces. Then it is necessary to attach the profile to the foundation with anchors, which will be the basis of the structure. Then you can begin installing the frame.

As for assembling the frame, everyone chooses for themselves how it is convenient for them to do it. We advise you to assemble the arches on a flat horizontal surface, and then install and make the cladding, as well as heating.

Pipe frame

The frame for a winter greenhouse can be made from several types of pipes. If the frame is made of metal, then it is advisable to use profile pipes, welding them with electric welding. The arched structure experiences less snow loads, but to give the pipe the required shape you will need a pipe bender. If you don’t want to buy ready-made arches or bend pipes, then you can make a greenhouse shape the same as from a metal profile - with sloping roof.

The racks are secured to the walls and corners of the frame by welding. At the same time, door openings are installed. An upper frame is built on top of the door structures and pillars, where the arches are fixed. Then proceed to install the arched transoms on the roof and attach the hinges to the ridge. Make a lever system to open the transoms, then start painting the frame. The arched structure made of polycarbonate and pipes is ready.

It’s easier and faster to build a regular frame from polypropylene pipes. Again, you will need to complete the drawing and cut the blanks. To assemble the structure you will need a soldering iron, and required number of fittings and pipes will need to be purchased in accordance with the selected type of greenhouse.

One of the obvious advantages of a frame made of polypropylene pipes is considered to be an excellent combination of flexibility and strength of this material. Flexibility makes it possible to give the frame the desired shape, and strength makes it possible to withstand heavy loads.

As for the door, it is made of the same material as the greenhouse. For convenience, you can build a window for ventilation here. Then, once the frame is assembled and attached, it can be lined with polycarbonate.

Heating and heating of a winter greenhouse

It is also important to take care of the heating and heating system of the winter greenhouse. Today, technologies include the installation of bubble or transparent plastic to heat the structure from the outside and inside. The benefit of this solution is that this material looks decent and does not absorb sunlight.

Heating options for a winter greenhouse:

Heating in a greenhouse may not be very cost-effective, but, so to speak, the goal, in our case grow a rich winter harvest, and not save on heating.

At this stage, all technological nuances are completed, and now you have a do-it-yourself winter polycarbonate greenhouse. This design will enable you to get a large harvest and preserve it from the adverse effects of precipitation, fog and ultraviolet radiation. The high strength of the material will allow the structure to survive heavy precipitation in the form of hail and snow without any damage.

Each owner of a plot of land has his own motivation for erecting a winter greenhouse on the site. The general procedure of work (choosing a location and materials, drawing up a drawing, and so on) is not much different from building any other structure with your own hands - a private house, a garage or a summer kitchen. But once we're talking about about a winter greenhouse, and even one with heating, then you should understand in more detail all the nuances of its installation.

Next, only the features of such construction will be outlined and practical recommendations will be given. The reader who does not know what, for example, a foundation strip or grillage is, should first familiarize themselves with this information in the “” section.

You should not be distracted by such details as the shape of the greenhouse (one-, two-, three-slope, arched, combined or other), its dimensions (including height) and so on. All this is at the discretion of the owner, since much depends on what the greenhouse itself is being built for (growing something for oneself or for sale) and what crops are supposed to be planted in it. Therefore, it makes sense to consider only the nuances of installing it components– foundation (base), frame structure, its covering, utilities (lighting + heating).

A special feature of a heated greenhouse is that such a building is mounted as a stationary, non-removable structure (unlike). Therefore it is required the right approach to choosing a location for a capital structure that cannot be disassembled and moved to another segment of the territory if necessary.

Light mode

The greenhouse should be located and oriented to the cardinal points so that during the day it is illuminated as much as possible naturally.

Wind rose

Heating is installed in greenhouses, which are usually used year-round. Therefore, you should think about organizing a fence from the most problematic direction. It may be necessary to install wind protection on several sides. If you think everything through carefully, you can quite significantly reduce heat loss and save on heating costs, not to mention increasing crop yields.

We should not forget about air turbulence. The smaller the interval between the fence and the wall of the greenhouse, the higher it is. Consequently, it will be necessary to “heat” more intensively, since the extraction of heat from outside will increase. The dimensions of the building also matter. If we focus on the average indicator, then the optimal distance between the fence and the greenhouse is about 6 - 7 m (with a ridge height of 2 - 2.5 m).

Ease of access to the greenhouse

This will greatly facilitate both the construction process and vegetation care. If possible, you should also take into account the specifics of laying communications - lighting, water supply, heating (if it is not autonomous) - in order to minimize costs.

Heating option

The design (scheme) of the greenhouse largely depends on the scheme by which the heating of the greenhouse is organized. This will be discussed in more detail below, but it should be noted that if the boiler is installed inside the building, it will be necessary to provide not just a vestibule, but a separate room with the appropriate dimensions. The linear parameters (cubic capacity) of the mini-furnace must correspond to the power of the installed unit.

Features of the selection of materials and installation of the greenhouse

Foundation

Its depth depends on the characteristics of the soil, the configuration of underground aquifers and the presence (efficiency) of a drainage system on the site.

Tape

This is the most popular type of foundation in the private sector. But considering the cost of materials (primarily cement) and the low weight of the greenhouse, is it worth constructing a foundation of this type? big question. In addition, if the site is already planted, then it is extremely undesirable to carry out extensive excavation work (there is a high risk of damage to the root system of the plantings) or is not possible everywhere (due to utility lines laid across the territory).

Conclusion - if local conditions allow, then it is advisable to use.

Columnar (pile)

Under a greenhouse is a more suitable option. And if pipes are used as supports, then soil excavation will be reduced to drilling holes at the designated points. With screw piles it’s even easier.

You will need to install a grillage. What is the point of heating a building under the floor of which “the wind is blowing”? By the way, if necessary, you can lay some kind of insulation in the space between its bottom and the ground, for example, fill in expanded clay. But mineral wool is not suitable, as over time it will absorb moisture and begin to deteriorate.

Frame

In general terms, the choice of materials for the “skeleton” of the greenhouse is large, but for capital construction it is somewhat narrowed. Building walls made of brick or concrete blocks is not a cheap pleasure. We will look at simpler technologies.

Wood

It should not be used unambiguously. There are several reasons. Firstly, it dries out, which means heat loss will increase. Secondly, the need for regular treatment with special preparations and painting is an unattractive prospect. In addition, there are monetary costs and time. Thirdly, not all vegetable crops like “close proximity” to a tree. Experienced gardeners often cite cucumbers as an example. Fourthly, there will be problems with glazing, as well as ensuring its tightness throughout the entire life of the greenhouse.

Metal

If you use aluminum samples, the weight of the structure will be insignificant. The difficulty lies elsewhere - in its assembly. Not everyone can bend a metal profile correctly; experience is required.

Plastic

For a small greenhouse with heating, this is the best option. Pipes can withstand significant loads, easily change geometry, are inexpensive - there are enough advantages. The only question is how to securely secure such a frame to the foundation?

Tape - rods (from small-diameter pipes, rods or something similar) are embedded into it according to a pre-designed pattern, onto which the plastic is placed.
The pillars are the same. To ensure strength, a solution is poured into the supports. This is where pieces of smaller cross-section pipes or thick fittings are installed.

If a boiler is mounted in the greenhouse vestibule, then there must be a wall (partition) with a door between it and the main room. Part of the roof (above this utility room) is covered with opaque material.

Sheathing

There is no point in talking about materials such as polyethylene film or glass. In the first case - due to a short service life and large heat losses. In the second - due to the complexity of installation and high cost. You should pay attention to polycarbonate. But since we are talking about heating, then you need to choose.

There are several advantages of such a greenhouse covering:

reasonable price;
light weight;
strength;
ease of attaching sheets with your own hands;
good light transmission and heat conservation;
excellent maintainability.

Engineering systems

Arranging ventilation and lighting is not that difficult. It is only necessary to provide for the ability to control light and air flow. How to do this - manually or install automation - the owner decides for himself. The same applies to the water supply system. Some will make a branch from the main line and extend a separate line to the greenhouse, while others will be quite happy with collecting water in a bucket from a well located next to the building. But it’s worth talking about heating in particular.

Greenhouse heating options

Actually, this is the most important point from the entire process of constructing a winter greenhouse. It is the constancy of temperature and uniform heating of the building that is the key to high productivity. What to choose as a source of thermal energy can only be decided by the owner himself, since even hypothetically it is impossible to take into account all the nuances of construction and the capabilities of the owner of the site, especially if the work will be done with his own hands. But a short overview of the options would be appropriate.

Bake

These are not the only options for electrical appliances. You might think about purchasing air heaters (but they dry the air), oil radiators - there is a choice.

Heating with biofuel

On many sites this method heating is positioned as the most economical. But if you carefully read the technology, a number of questions arise. For example, where can a city dweller get manure, sawdust and the like? How long is one bookmark enough? Plus, there are strict requirements for air humidity, aeration and a number of others. It turns out that such heating is quite a troublesome task. So it’s not for everyone.

Conclusion

In principle, there can be no specific recommendation for the construction of a winter greenhouse. The information provided is sufficient for the reader to make a choice of the most suitable project and option for the interior arrangement of the premises. Everything can be done with your own hands if you approach the issue thoughtfully and in a businesslike manner.