Balancing the knife. Instructions for throwing knives

The muddy wave of perestroika, and even the post-perestroika period, had a very negative impact on the political and social life of Russia, especially affecting the condition and position of the army. The ruling elite has always been afraid of a trained army, and this continues today. Since the mid-forties, the army has been trained in practically nothing except three exercises: “stepping, broom and shovel.” Like a bad owner - “how to go hunting, so feed the dogs” - our army was trained, as a rule, only in extreme conditions, which led to colossal losses that might not have happened.

Knives Shape, sharpening*, dimensions, steel, balancing, weight

*sharpen - a system for sharpening knives and other bladed weapons.

Having dug through and studied a lot of literature on edged weapons, I have not found any material in any source that covers the section “throwing knives” correctly or competently, or rather, professionally. A few amateurish authors have attempted to explore this topic. The books by Victor Popenko and Anatoly Taras showed a lot of knives, the shapes of which came to us from ancient times and, naturally, from different peoples. All of these knives are suitable for throwing, I very much doubt it, but I am far from thinking of offending the mentioned authors, obviously this happened due to some objective reasons. It is unlikely that the above authors have seen how this is done, and I think that they have not tried to do it themselves, although with a certain desire and skill, as I myself have seen in the past, any object in the hand of a professional can become a formidable weapon (knives, plates, needles , axes, ordinary plates and even hats).

But still, I have a desire to move on to what I have seen, experienced myself, what I can do and what I can teach.

Knife shape

Over the long 30 years, standing at the leadership of the School of Martial Arts SEN "E (the path of life, the road of life, the work of my whole life), I had to try and practice with many types of weapons, including throwing ones. Somehow it happened naturally, but rather under the influence of A. A. Kharlampiev, that over the years I have developed my own method of using a knife, its canons should be extremely utilitarian and functional, that is, only in this way and in no other way. Personally, I came to the conclusion that a throwing object, namely a knife, should resemble the silhouette of a swimming shark (Fig. 1). Such a knife is not only convenient to throw, but it is also convenient for working in close combat and fencing at a long distance.

Rice. 1

The only way the “swimming shark” knife differs from knives of subsequent forms is that the lower cutting edge is more hollowly sharpened relative to the upper, resembling in profile the transition from the upper jaw of a shark to the lower.

Oddly enough, it turned out to be difficult to order knives of this shape even in the defense industry, since the turners and milling operators, having lost their qualifications in the production of edged weapons during the years of perestroika, could not understand what I wanted from them. Then I further simplified the shape of the knife, and the working part itself, the one that enters the target, and in battle into the enemy’s body, began to resemble a bullet. In general, the knife in profile resembled a large bullet, as it was streamlined, convenient and had nothing superfluous.

Rice. 2. Knife dimensions.

Two sizes of the knife were also developed, so to speak, two of its lengths: one - 25 cm = 250 mm, the other - 30 cm = 300 mm (Fig. 2). But at our school we are somehow more accustomed to the first size. So, since we have already decided what shape the throwing knife should be, let’s name its other parameters. Length = 250 mm, handle = 100 mm, blade = 150 mm, i.e. the blade is one and a half lengths of the handle, width = 25-28 mm. During manufacturing, the thickness of the workpiece should be from 2.2 mm to 2.5 mm. The thickness of the handle lining is 2 mm. You can make 3 rivets holding the handle on each side, but usually 2 rivets are made. Rivet width - 5 mm.

Steel The workpiece is steel 4x13 55 units. hardness on the Rockwell scale. If you take 60 units. rigidity, then during training the knife, falling flat into the stand, will break, because the steel will practically be surgical, and at 50 units. the rigidity of the knife, when it hits the stand, it will bend strongly. The middle of the scale is taken. If the above steel is not available, you can take spring steel from a GAZ-21 car and valve steel from a car engine.

Sharpen

The knife blank itself must be milled or sharpened in such a way that the cutting part of the knife is on only one side. The sharpening of the cutting edge itself can be of four types, as shown in Fig. 3.

Rice. 3. Knife in section

Sharpening of the workpiece is carried out in the middle of the length of the knife and runs from the tip of the knife to the beginning of the handle (Fig. 3c). You need to sharpen, naturally, 150 mm in length, completely without affecting the part that will be the handle. Otherwise, it will greatly affect the balancing of the knife.

So, sharpenings can be double-sided, with a bevel in one direction and a hemisphere. What's better? Experience shows that if you need a high-precision hit on the target, then a knife with a double-sided sharpening is used. After making the workpiece, we move on to the handle.

The handle should consist of two separate duralumin linings. Other materials - vinyl plastic, wood, rubber quickly become unusable from accidental hits with a knife and from impacts on the stand and the floor. The part of the knife intended for the handle is not milled. Two 5 mm holes are drilled into it for two rivets made of high-speed steel, which is well processed and holds well. Both holes for the rivets are drilled 20 mm from the end of the handle from the knife blade. Moreover, both handle linings at the nearest rivet are ground obliquely (Fig. 4) to the blade so that the thrower’s hand does not encounter any angles or plane differences when releasing the knife in a throw.

Rice. 4

Knife weight and balancing

The weight of the knife should be 200 g. Its balancing is checked in this way: in the place where the handle starts from the blade, place your index finger, say, right hand, and the index finger of the left hand slightly holds the knife in a horizontal position near the sting. When you release the finger of your left hand, the handle of the knife, as if pausing, should pull the knife smoothly and unconditionally towards the floor (Fig. 5). If the handle of the knife is significantly heavier than the blade, the knife will immediately fall to the floor towards the handle. Therefore, such a handle simply needs to be lightened.

Rice. 5

A few words about our army knives A straight dagger bayonet from an AKM assault rifle with a hollow for blood flow for throwing would be convenient if it did not have a ring for attaching to the barrel and an excessively bent and weighted end of the handle. When I was filming all these belongings, I made excellent use of this bayonet, as was the case, for example, on the set of the film “In the Special Attention Zone.” The bayonet, which resembles the fin from an AK assault rifle, is even more difficult to use, because the sting is shifted to the side, and the handle is very heavy, with many bends and angles. A one-sided saw also gets in the way, which can injure your hand. You have to be a well-trained fighter to have a certain result when throwing such a bayonet. But in general it can be used for the army. The distance should be 4.5-5.5 m, depending on the height of the fighter and the length of his arm. There is also an army dagger bayonet with a diamond-shaped sharpening on both sides of the blade, but with the same drawback - it also has an uncomfortable handle. In a word, you can’t throw our domestic bayonets by the handle. Apparently, scientists from the Department of Defense were experimenting with these knives in their offices. The color of a throwing knife should be black so that it is practically invisible in the hand, and even more so in flight.

Platforms and stands for throwing knives (special devices)

Knife throwing training is carried out both in open areas and indoors. To do this you need to clear various garbage a small area in the forest or garden, equal to approximately 10x4 m, compact the area, lightly sprinkle with sand and place stands so that people are not allowed to appear near them or behind them. The site must be marked out at special distances (I will talk about them in the next chapter). At one end of the site there will be a stand, at the other - a table or bench for throwing knives (Fig. 6).

Rice. 6. Open area

During the training process, there is a danger of knives flying and scattering around the site and beyond the site, so the stand simply needs to be fenced off with a fine mesh or wooden shields. You need to pour more sand or put rubber tracks on the ground near the stand. This will save the knives from possible damage when hitting the ground, and the student will not have to run behind the stand to look for knives that have flown there. In the room for the same exercises, the platform should be exactly the same, but more attention should be paid to sound insulation, for which the stand should be surrounded by felt sheets or rubber tracks. If there are windows in the room where throwing is carried out, then they should be blocked with a fine mesh (Fig. 7).

Rice. 7. Room (top view)

The stands should be well lit: there should be light bulbs above them or on the sides, covered with covers, since when preparing the thrower there will be exercises in twilight and in complete darkness for a flash of light. All the talk that the platform for throwing knives should be larger has no real meaning, because it is simply impossible to effectively throw knives further than 12 m, and stories that someone saw or threw knives from distances of 15, 20 and 30 m is a purebred lie. Throwing stands can be of different types. If you are in a region where it is difficult to find a tree, then an earthen rampart is poured into one side of the open air area, compacted with shovels, different figures are marked, after which the stand is ready for training (this is what, for example, the Turkish Janissaries (guard) did for fast learning a large number of warriors).

If it is possible to choose a tree for exercise, then it is better if it is poplar, since its wood is softer, absorbs the sound of a knife strike well and absorbs the knife well when stuck. The poplar is sawn into thirty-centimeter round pieces, the bark is removed, after which the sides are chopped off with an ax so that a square is obtained, then any serial number, and the finished poplar squares are placed in the stand frame (Fig. 8).

Rice. 8

The frame cover or top bar is lowered so that the poplar squares do not move, and fastened or tied at the side to keep everything firmly in place (Fig. 9).

Rice. 9

The squares can have numbers on the front and various shapes on the back. When the front surface is destroyed as a result of exercise, the side is changed or the square is completely thrown away. It is advisable to keep poplar wood damp at all times. To do this, when leaving training, you need to spray the stand with water and, if possible, cover the stand with a damp cloth. Wet wood is more resistant to knife sticking. When learning to throw, an important circumstance is the fact that the knives are thrown at the end of the block, and not at the side into the wood. Much later, when experience comes, it will be possible to throw knives at a standing tree, but, naturally, into a dry one, not a blooming one, into chipboard or plywood. True, such an exercise greatly damages knives. Experienced throwers make targets swinging on chains, although, I repeat, hitting them is only possible with very long and constant practice.

Knife throwing distances

Speaking of distance, I would immediately like to focus on the very close distance to the target, and in a combat situation, to the enemy. During the training, four such distances were identified. These are 1.25 m, 1.50 m, 1.75 m and 2 m. I am not yet talking about throwing methods and the very important section - how to hold a knife (this will be done in the next chapter). While studying, the student must increase his skills at these distances, and only after that quietly move away, moving away from the target. These are real distances both for training and also in a combat situation, making it possible to quickly deal with the enemy. Then there is a very realistic distance of 2.5 and 3 m. Then 4-4.5 m. The most effective for me. Accordingly, 5 m, 6 m, 7 and 8 m. When the thrower moves to such a distance, he feels that idle talk even about 12 m, and even more so 15, 20, 30 m, is pure fiction and bluff. In terms of methodology, having mastered several of the listed distances, at the end of the training you should try to approach and move away from the target. This practice gives a positive result in battle, when the distance will be difficult to determine by eye due to various weather or other circumstances. In general, in order to get closer to the enemy and implement your actions, a distance of 6-8 m is very good. In addition, you need to be a very good thrower, otherwise you will lose.

Ways to hold a knife in your handStances and throwing methods

Remembering that in the previous chapter we outlined four close distances, I would like to say right away that you need to hit the target and the enemy from these distances while holding the knife by the handle. The knife is held in the hand in this way: the blade is directed towards the stand or the enemy, the handle is in the palm, four fingers hold the handle from below, acting as a guide for the knife to fly out of the hand. The thumb, with the phalanx necessarily bent at an angle of 45°, lying on the knife, should never extend beyond the line of the bent index finger and lie flat on the knife (Fig. 10).

Rice. 10

None of the authors of works on knife throwing said a word about this. What does this method of holding a knife do? Properly placed on the handle, and also on the blade (we will look at this a little later), thumb hands makes it possible to correctly aim the knife. The position of the thumb on the knife determines whether the knife begins to tumble when thrown or not. Likewise, the thumb plays an important role in whether the knife hits the target horizontally or vertically. I have never seen this moment touched upon or illuminated by anyone. The thumb seems to twist the knife when it is released from the hand, pointing it to a point, horizontally or vertically. But, really, maybe these are the secrets of the masters. The knife is held by the blade in the same way, taking into account the fact that one side of it is sharp and should protrude outward from the palm a few millimeters. Throwing a knife by the handle from distances up to 2 m is done with one wave of the hand. The knife, without turning over anywhere, enters the target. But, starting from 2 m, it is more convenient to throw the knife by the blade, and here, when releasing the knife from the hand, you should slightly cut the blade from bottom to top with a bent index finger. Then the knife, having made only half a turn, will stick its sting into the target.

When a student, holding a knife by the blade, begins to try a distance of 5.5-6 m, then the knife should literally go a few millimeters into the palm, but in these cases, no more than half of the handle should still be grasped by the palm.

The knife should not be held tightly or tightly, but tightly held with your fingers using the indicated grip. A very important circumstance is the position of the hand when throwing the knife, in its very final release phase (Fig. 13).

Rice. 13

In Fig. Figure 14 shows a variant of the correct and incorrect position of the hand.

Rice. 14

In the correct position, the hand seems to strike, and the knife looks up diagonally, somewhere at an angle of 45°; in the wrong position, the hand is tilted down, and usually the knife begins to somersault and hits the ground. When throwing a knife, the hand must be completely relaxed. And only at the end, when releasing the knife, she, as if stopping, imitates a blow. The student's eyes look at the point where he wants to go, watching his hand with lower or lateral peripheral vision, directing and stopping his hand where his eyes are looking.

A classic example of all of these actions is distance 3 m when the student, holding the knife by the blade, lightly touching the handle with his thumb and not extending his thumb beyond the area of the bent index finger, sends the knife to the target (Fig. 15).

Rice. 15

This throwing style is suitable for distances from 2.5 to 4 m. At a distance from 1.75 to 2.5 m, the palm is placed on the knife to the middle of the blade.

Now that much has already been explained, I would like to talk about the need for sharpening knife blades. Of course, a master is always a master; he can throw a knife even without sharpening, that is, smooth. But if we talk about the high art of throwing, then the masters use a form of knife that is close to the heart and feeling. For a student, when he is required to learn this or that exercise, it is important to have some kind of the required part, which will increase his understanding of what is happening and qualifications. So that's when we're talking about about the knife hitting the target horizontally or vertically, this is where it must be said that sharpening hinders or helps the result.

As already mentioned or shown above, there are different sharpenings. I returned to this topic once again to show how the thumb of the palm rests on the knife before throwing (Fig. 16).

Rice. 16 (sectional)

Much of what is shown above is not even obvious, it is on the verge of intuition. But by practicing, the student comes to the point that he begins to feel the distance, the knife and the sharpening groove with his finger, i.e. a feeling of understanding the sensation of the knife is born: when to press lightly when release so that the knife hits the target horizontally or vertically. I repeat once again, saying that the sharpening plays a very important role in the arrival of the knife at the target, and the thumb, when launching the knife from the hand, plays exactly this role.

Stances and throwing methods

These two concepts are closely related because there can be no throwing methods without stances. I will also have to refer to some stances and throwing techniques that resemble strikes in the language of karate and hand-to-hand combat terms.

Speaking about throwing methods, we will again have to return to the two previous chapters on distances and the manner of holding a knife in the hand, since all these concepts will be linked together in this chapter. Let's remember those first four distances close to the target. So, throwing knives at them is done from high racks, when the student stands on his feet, shoulder-width apart. And only at the moment of sending the knife to the target, either the left or the right foot comes forward. Here again it is necessary to mention the height and length of the student’s arms.

So, let's consider one of the methods of throwing at close range (Fig. 17): the student stands, slightly turning towards the target with his left side or even frontally. Remaining in place, he holds the knife in his right hand. Raising his right hand with a knife at head level, bent at the elbow so as to form an angle of 90°, with a quick and sharp movement of the hand he sends the knife to the target.

The student can make the same movement by stepping out to the indicated distance in the Hidari-Zenkutsu-dachi stance (front left-side stance), while throwing the knife with his right hand. You can also step your right foot into the migi-zenkutsu-dachi stance (front right-hand stance) and also throw the knife with your right hand (Fig. 18).

You can attack the target from the kiba-dachi stance (rider position), immediately taking a stationary position or stepping out to an already known distance simultaneously with throwing the knife (Fig. 19).

This movement will resemble a tetsui-uchi (hammer hand) strike from the outside inwards. You can swing your right hand horizontally from the kiba-dachi stance, being with your left side to the target, send the knife to the target and from a high stance from the spot. As for a combat situation, when the enemy is in front of you and does not know who you are, thinking that you will at least fencing or doing some techniques, then if you have learned how to throw a knife, this should simplify your situation.

Distances of 3-4 m are kind of classic. From these distances, learning proceeds well and maximum effectiveness is achieved (author’s personal experience). You can already take a position in hidari or migi-zenkutsu-dachi, or you can step to the throwing line from the neko-ashi-dachi stance (i.e., from the cat stance), as shown in Fig. 20.

Rice. 20

At this distance, you can throw a knife from the kiba-dachi stance (rider position) as if imitating a tetsui-uchi strike, throwing with your right hand, and swinging to throw from your left ear or shoulder.

I would like to remind students once again: whether you are throwing a knife frontally from a standstill or in the transition from neko-dachi to any of the zenkutsu-dachi stances, your thumb lying on the blade of the knife should lightly touch the handle if you are throwing behind the blade, and not in no case should it go beyond the line of the bent index finger supporting the handle of the knife from below. Moreover, as already mentioned, the phalanx of the thumb resting on the knife should be bent at an angle of 45°. It is also necessary to point out that when throwing a knife from the side from the kiba-dachi stance (rider position) from the middle and long distances, there will definitely be a scattering (scattering) of the knife horizontally, since the movement of the hand will be very swinging and it will be difficult to initially hold the hand at any one point (Fig. 21).

Rice. 21. Front and back view

Therefore, on the stand, approximately a meter-long gap 30-40 cm wide is drawn on the stand with black paint, and in the middle of this gap a thick black vertical stripe is applied, which will be clearly visible to the student even with peripheral (lateral) vision, and he will have to try to stop his hand first when throwing a knife. to this strip (Fig. 22). And then, when the skill comes, throw throughout this gap and beyond.

Rice. 22

In an extreme situation from 3 and 4 m, you can throw a knife from behind your head when the enemy demands that you raise your hands. The knife is hidden vertically behind the collar in a secret pocket if the clothing resembles a ninja suit, and the thrower stands frontally, but with his legs wide apart, or in the position of a horseman - kiba-dachi (Fig. 23).

Rice. 23. Rear view

From these same stands you can throw knives with both hands, but still hits with the left hand will be worse (there will be a larger spread on the target). Already from 5 m the knife can be thrown by holding both the blade and the handle. The student must remember that when throwing a knife by the blade, he makes only half a turn when entering the target. Throwing the knife by the handle, the knife makes a full rotation. This gives the thrower a special feeling of throwing. Just throwing the knife forward won't do anything. When throwing a knife by the handle, you must make the knife fly 4/5 of the way with the tip forward. And only at this very 1/5 of the way make a full turn and enter the target with the tip. This is difficult to explain in words, it just requires demonstration and practice, practice, practice.

From a distance of 6, 7, 8 m, you can throw a knife either from a high stance (feet shoulder-width apart) with a transition to a front left or right-sided stance (hidari or migi-zenkutsu-dachi), or from a cat stance (neko-ashi -dacha) with a sharp transition to one of the above stances, almost simultaneously with a powerful movement of the hand sending the knife to the target. But still, any leg that steps into position must freeze a little before the hand releases the knife into flight. Throwing knives from longer distances seems impractical to me. For for many years I have not met such practitioners.

This chapter concludes with some practical advice for students. If you are really captivated by this art (throwing knives), if you want to always be in shape and so that your hand does not lose the feeling of throwing, carry a bag or bag with small stones in your pocket. From time to time, with a throwing motion, throw these pebbles in different directions (this is what the Chinese masters did). IN extreme situations, where you are faced with an important task, where the stake is life, you must remember that a knife flies differently in different weather, so train outside in any weather, especially in cold and rain. A wet knife flies out of your hand completely differently. If you have the opportunity to wipe it before throwing, be sure to do so. Try to train in thin leather gloves (black, like all your clothes). The knife is a silent weapon, but remains in the enemy's body, try not to leave evidence. Three of your fingers from the enemy's silhouette inward is a very serious injury when hit by a knife, or death.

For a beginning student, it is enough to have no more than 5-10 knives to practice. As your qualifications increase, gradually increase their number. But we were talking about study and training knives; an advanced master should have a belt with a set of knives located on it, as shown in Figure 24.

Rice. 24

The knives on the belt should be positioned so that they are not only convenient to grab, but also so that they do not restrict movement when walking or falling. After all, the most important purpose of this belt is to create convenience for work and training. The belt is made only for the individual owner. Knives should be small, no more than 15 cm in length. All other parameters - weight, width, thickness, blade-to-handle ratio - are also selected individually by the master. The belt should be covered with a jacket or cape. Even a master must spend quite a lot of time instantly snatching the knife and quickly putting it away in the cell, as samurai do with a katana (medium sword). Training in snatching and putting away weapons constantly accompanies the master throughout his life. You need to train almost every day - from 30 minutes to 4 hours. But. Naturally, you need to clearly know the task that you or you have been assigned. You must follow the principle: “it’s better a little, but every day, than 4 hours, but once a week.”

If for some reason it is impossible to make a belt and wear it constantly, then the master thrower must fit at least a knife on each hand, on each leg and, as mentioned above, behind the collar on the back. By the way, for this it is desirable to have knives that bend very well, even clasping the hand and protecting it in hand-to-hand combat, with a rubber handle, and well balanced.

And one last thing. During training, the knives will definitely become dull. There will be burrs and nicks on the blades and handles that need to be removed. For these purposes, you can use a file, grinding stone, etc.

So, no matter how many times you run the indicated tools along the blade of the knife, bringing it to its original condition, the same number of times you will have to run the same tools along the handle of the knife so that the ratio of weight and balancing (blade to handle) remains the same.

These are the questions everyone who enters the world of knife throwing asks themselves, but professionals are also in constant search.

Of course, you can throw nails, scissors, screwdrivers, even ordinary ones working knives, but is it necessary? Knife throwing- this is a noble art, recreation, sport, and in order to get maximum pleasure, and even more so achieve results, you need to take the choice of a throwing knife seriously.

Let's start with a few myths that have developed in society about throwing knives

Myth 1. A throwing knife is a terrible military weapon that hits anything and everything at a distance of 20 m inclusive. Just lie down and hide

The myth is clearly generated by cinema and various “front-line” stories. In fact, if a person has a knife, he would be the last fool if he throws this knife away. The working distance for the thrower is 3-9 meters. It is possible to move even further away from the target, but it is no longer easy.

Myth 2. It doesn’t matter what you throw and from what distance.

It's very important. Knife, which weighs less than 100-150 grams, is difficult to throw even for trained people, and starting training with it is generally the last thing.

Any plastic handles or the pads will inevitably break and fall off the knife - it's only a matter of time. Any winding is cut off in the same way. Exclusively interfere with throwing all kinds of balancers. They quickly get confused and change the balance, and the knife doesn’t need balancers, frankly speaking. But more about balance a little further. Any throwing technique, even a non-revolving one, is somehow tied to the distance, and if we make two absolutely identical throws from 3 and 3.5 meters, knives will arrive at the target in completely different ways.

Myth 3. My favorite myth is mercury knives that stick no matter how hard you throw them.

They come up in every other conversation about throwing anything. And almost every self-respecting person has a friend/matchmaker/brother/former commander ( underline what is necessary), who personally held them in his hands and even threw them. Especially respected ones literally have a mercury knife in their garage. But after asking to see the friend, the connection with the friend is mysteriously interrupted, and the knife is lost. I have no doubt that the mercury knife exists, but how elusive it is, you bastard. In 10 years of searching, I have never found a single working mercury knife =)

Myth 4. Only balanced knives or knives with some special balance fly well.

A huge misconception.

There are knives balanced, whose geometric center coincides with the center of gravity and not balanced– the center of gravity is shifted towards the handle or blade. Knife with balance in handle (the center of gravity is shifted to the handle) With greater strength will hit the target when thrown with a grip on the blade, knife with balance blade- when throwing by the handle, and balanced knife enters the target equally with the same force for any throwing method. That makes all the difference.

What parameters should you use to choose a throwing knife?

Unfortunately today the market is flooded a large number knives which are called " throwing “, but it’s a stretch to say that they are. I want to talk about the basic principles of selecting a throwing knife. They will help you choose a quality item and not fall for stupid crafts.

The most important characteristic throwing knife– its size and weight.

From an initial distance of 3 meters knives will fly comfortably, no easier 150 g, while already at 5 meters the knife should weigh no less 180-200 g, With 7-9 meters It's better to throw knives that weigh 200-350g . Optimal length throwing knife starts from 200 mm. It’s better to start learning with heavy knives, they “ forgive"The thrower has errors in technique. If the knife is comfortable and heavy enough, learning is easy and enjoyable.

I remember being a teenager when I miraculously found some nameless " throwing » knives in a stall, tried to throw - and was upset, knives They flew poorly and unstably. And then how could I not pull my ears away from the throwing stand in the forge, when I forged my first throwing knives(then there were no good serial ones to be found).

I would call the second most important parameter convenience of the knife.

It is very important that the surface is rough and can be felt well by the hand. All corners must be rounded, the cutting edge must not be sharpened. It is important that knife fit comfortably in your hand with the grip you are going to use for this knife throwing.

Important strength And durability knife.

From a distance of 3 meters knife hits the target with twice the force of a punch. That's why throwing knife must be especially durable. Monolithic design, without all kinds of windings and overlays. The thickness of the butt is at least 5-6 mm.

It is important to pay special attention to steel and its heat treatment. The optimal steels are: stainless steel 420, 40Х13, 65Х13 as well as carbon steel 30ХГСА and 65Г. Hardness throwing knife recommended in the area 40-45 Rockwell units. If the hardness is less, the knife will bend; if it is more hard, it may break.

Now about throwing technique

It’s not difficult to master it even on your own.

For this we need:

set from 3-6 identical throwing knives (length not less than 200 mm, weight from 150 g),
target– a simple dry tree will do, but it’s better to make full stand. It is much easier to learn with it (see video about the stand below)
tape measure for measuring distance
fundamentals of technique and training.

There are three main techniques:

Sports(axe technique) - grip the tip of the handle
Free(reverse) – with a grip blade or handle
Non-negotiable– a grip on the blade, in which the knife hits the target without making a revolution.

All techniques are tied to distance, so we begin our training by marking distances. We retreat 3 meters from the target ( This is where a tape measure comes in handy). This is the base distance we'll start with. I’ll make a reservation that over time we will learn to determine our distance of 3, 4, 5 meters by eye, but first it’s better to count and mark exactly on the tape measure.

Sports equipment the simplest

Let's take a stance. For right-handers - left leg in front, toe at the three-meter mark, right behind. Let's take it knife by the handle to a depth of about 4 cm. We swing from the shoulder so that the arm runs parallel to the body, and release the knife just above the aiming point. We release it easily, without squeezing the handle too tightly. And, if everything is done correctly, the knife sticks out at the target.

If the knife does not hit the target parallel to the ground, and the handle is tilted upward, then it twisted, you should take the next knife a little deeper. If the knife came with the handle down, this is underrotated, which means we take the next one a little less deeply. In the same way when torsion you can get a little closer to the target, without changing grip, and when under-rotated- move away.

Having determined the required distance and grip, we remember them and then work on the uniformity of movement.

Principle free technology same, different distance and grip

We take the knife by the blade from the butt side so that the fingers do not fall on the conventional cutting edge. The tip of the blade protrudes slightly from the clenched palm. The swing is also from the shoulder, but we do not turn the hand further. The knife should fly out of your hand at an upward angle of 45 degrees. We also take the handle to the full length of the palm.

When throwing by the blade, the initial distance is 3-3.5 m, when throwing by the handle - 4.5-5 m

Non-revolving technology a little more complicated

It's easier to start with short distances at 1.5-2 m.

Basics shown in video

Quality throwing knives serve for a very long time - tens of years. However, they also require care.

An indispensable consequence of throwing is the appearance of burrs when hit knife-to-knife . As soon as a burr appears, it must be cut down immediately with a file, otherwise the next time you throw it, a cut and a splinter are guaranteed.

If knife made of carbon steel, after each workout it is important to wipe it dry, and during long-term storage - lubricate it with oil. In this sense knives made of corrosion-resistant steel have an advantage.

When throwing outdoors, it is better to mark knife handle bright electrical tape to make it easier to find.
Even if you're great throw, start your workout with smooth throws and minimal distances - let your muscles and ligaments warm up.
Focus not on strength, but on accuracy of the throw.
Keep in mind that if the ligaments are not warmed up throw shortens, which means that if at the beginning of training you hit the target from 3.5 m, then at the end you will be able to move away 4 m.
Let your brain and body negotiate. If you can't, take a break. Learning does not happen in the moment throwing, and after it.
Don't skimp on targets, study and subsequently throw It’s easier and more enjoyable when the target is large.
Look for like-minded people!

Tadeush Kasyanov.

Instructions for throwing knives.

Knives.

Shape, sharpening*, dimensions, steel, balancing, weight.

Having dug through and studied a lot of literature on edged weapons, I have not found any material in any source that covers the section “throwing knives” correctly or competently, or rather, professionally. A few amateurish authors have attempted to explore this topic. The books by Victor Popenko and Anatoly Taras showed a lot of knives, the shapes of which came to us from ancient times and, naturally, from different peoples. I very much doubt whether all of these knives are suitable for throwing, but I am far from thinking of offending the mentioned authors; obviously, this happened due to some objective reasons. It is unlikely that the above authors have seen how this is done, and I think that they have not tried to do it themselves, although with a certain desire and skill, as I myself have seen in the past, any object in the hand of a professional can become a formidable weapon (knives, plates, needles , axes, ordinary plates and even hats).
But still, I have a desire to move on to what I have seen, experienced myself, what I can do and what I can teach.
* sharpen - a system for sharpening knives and other bladed weapons.

Knife shape.

Over the long 30 years, standing at the leadership of the School of Martial Arts SEN "E (path of life, road of life, life's work), I had to try and get acquainted with many types of weapons, including throwing ones. Somehow it happened naturally, but rather under the influence of A.A. Kharlampiev, over the years I have developed my own method of using a knife, its canons should be extremely utilitarian and functional, that is, only in this way and in no other way. Personally, I came to the conclusion that a throwing object, namely a knife, should resemble the silhouette of a swimming shark (Fig. 1). Such a knife is not only convenient to throw, but it is also convenient for working in close combat and fencing at a distance.

(Fig.1)

The only way the “swimming shark” knife differed from knives of subsequent forms was that the lower cutting edge was more hollowly sharpened relative to the upper, resembling in profile the transition from the upper jaw of a shark to the lower.

(Fig. 2) Oddly enough, it turned out to be difficult to order knives of this shape even in the defense industry, since the turners and milling operators, having lost their qualifications in the production of edged weapons during the years of perestroika, could not understand what I wanted from them. Then I further simplified the shape of the knife, and the working part itself, the one that enters the target, and in battle into the enemy’s body, began to resemble a bullet. In general, the knife in profile resembled a large bullet, as it was streamlined, convenient and had nothing superfluous.
Two knife sizes have also been developed, so to speak, two of its lengths: one - 25 cm = 250 mm, the other - 30 cm = 300 mm (Fig. 2). But at our school we are somehow more accustomed to the first size. So, since we have already decided what shape the throwing knife should be, let’s name its other parameters.
Length = 250 mm, handle = 100 mm, blade = 150 mm, i.e. the blade is one and a half lengths of the handle, width = 25-28 mm. During manufacturing, the thickness of the workpiece should be from 2.2 mm to 2.5 mm. The thickness of the handle lining is 2 mm. You can make 3 rivets holding the handle on each side, but usually 2 rivets are made. Rivet width - 5 mm.

Steel.

The workpiece is steel 4*13 55 units. hardness on the Rockwell scale. If you take 60 units. rigidity, then during training the knife, falling flat into the stand, will break, because the steel will practically be surgical, and at 50 units. the rigidity of the knife, when it hits the walls, it will bend strongly. The middle of the scale is taken. If you don’t have the above steel, you can take a spring hoist from a GAZ-21 car and valve steel from a car engine.

Sharpen it.

The knife blank itself must be milled or sharpened in such a way that the cutting part of the knife is on only one side. The sharpening of the cutting edge itself can be of 4 types, as shown in Fig. 3.
Sharpening of the workpiece is carried out in the middle of the length of the knife and runs from the tip to the beginning of the handle (Fig. 3c). You need to sharpen, naturally, 150 mm in length, without affecting that

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the part that will be the handle. Otherwise, this will greatly affect the balancing of the knife.
So, sharpenings can be double-sided, with a bevel in one direction and a hemisphere.
What's better? Experience shows that if you need a high-precision hit on the target, then a knife with a 2-sided sharpening is used. After making the workpiece, we move on to the handle.
The handle should consist of 2 separate duralumin linings. Other materials - vinyl plastic, wood, rubber quickly become unusable from accidental hits with a knife and from impacts on the stand and the floor. The part of the knife intended for the handle is not milled. 2 holes of 5 mm each are drilled into it for two rivets made of high-speed steel, which is well processed and holds well. Both holes for the rivets are drilled 20 mm from the end of the handle from the knife blade. Moreover, both handle linings at the nearest rivet are ground obliquely (Fig. 4)

to the blade so that the thrower’s hand does not encounter any angles or plane differences when releasing the knife in a throw.

Knife weight and balancing.

The weight of the knife should be 200 g. Its balancing is checked in this way: the index finger of, say, the right hand is placed in the place where the handle starts from the blade, and the index finger of the left hand slightly holds the knife in a horizontal position at the sting. When you release the finger of your left hand, the handle of the knife, as if pausing, should pull the knife smoothly and unconditionally towards the floor (Fig. 5). If the handle of the knife is significantly heavier than the blade, the knife will immediately fall to the floor towards the handle. Therefore, such a handle simply needs to be lightened.

Fig.5

A few words about army knives.

A straight dagger bayonet from an AKM assault rifle with a blood flow bayonet for throwing would be convenient if it did not have a ring for attachment to the barrel and an excessively bent and weighted end of the handle. When I was filming all these belongings, I used this bayonet perfectly, as was the case, for example, on the set of the film “In the Special Attention Zone.” A bayonet resembling a fin from an AK assault rifle is even more difficult to use, because the sting is offset to the side, and the handle is very heavy, with many curves and angles. A one-sided saw also gets in the way, which can injure your hand. You have to be a well-trained fighter to have a certain result when throwing such a bayonet. But in general it can be used for the army. The distance should be 4.5-5.5 m, depending on the height of the fighter and the length of his arm. There is also an army dagger bayonet with a diamond-shaped sharpening on both sides of the blade, but with the same drawback - it also has an uncomfortable handle. In a word, you can’t throw our domestic bayonets by the handle. Apparently scientists from the Department of Defense were experimenting with these knives in their offices. The color of a throwing knife should be black so that it is practically invisible in the hand, and even more so in flight.

Knife throwing areas and stands
(special devices)

Knife throwing training is carried out both in open areas and indoors. To do this, you need to clear a small area in the forest or garden, for example, 10x4 m, from various debris, compact the area, lightly sprinkle it with sand and place stands so that people are not allowed to appear near them or behind them. The site must be marked out at special distances (I will talk about them in the next chapter). At one end of the site there will be a stand, at the other - a table or bench for throwing knives. During the training process, there is a danger of knives flying and scattering around the site, so the stand simply needs to be fenced off with a fine mesh or wooden shields. You need to pour more sand or put rubber tracks on the ground near the stand. This will save the knives from possible damage when hitting the ground, and the student will not have to run behind the stand to look for knives that have flown there. In the room for the same exercises, the area should be exactly the same, but more attention It is necessary to pay attention to sound insulation, for which the stand must be surrounded with felt sheets or rubber tracks. If there are windows in the room where throwing is carried out, then they should be blocked with a fine mesh. The stands must be well lit: above them or on the side there should be light bulbs covered with covers, since when preparing the thrower there will be exercises in twilight and in complete darkness for a flash of light. All the talk that the platform for throwing knives should be larger does not make sense, because it is simply impossible to effectively throw knives further than 12 m, and stories that some people have seen or thrown knives from a distance of 15, 20 and 30 m - purebred lies. If you are in a region where it is difficult to find a tree, then an earthen rampart is poured into one side of the open air area, compacted with shovels, different figures are marked, after which the stand is ready for training (this is what, for example, the Turkish Janissaries (guard) did for rapid training of a large number of warriors).

If it is possible to select a tree for the exercise, it is better if it is a poplar, because its wood is softer, absorbs sound well from the impact of a knife and absorbs the knife well when stuck. The poplar is sawn into 30-centimeter rounds, the bark is removed, after which the sides are chopped off with an ax so that a square is obtained, then any serial number is designated, and the finished poplar squares are placed in the stand frame (Fig. 8).

The frame cover or top bar is lowered so that the poplar squares do not move, and fastened or tied at the side to keep everything firmly in place (Fig. 9). The squares may have different numbers on the front and different shapes on the back. When the front surface is destroyed as a result of exercise, the side of the square is changed or the square is completely thrown away. It is advisable to keep poplar wood damp at all times. To do this, when leaving training, you need to spray the stand with water and, if possible, cover the stand with a damp cloth. Wet wood is more resistant to knife sticking. When learning to throw, an important circumstance is the fact that the knives are thrown at the end of the block, and not at the side into the wood. It is possible later, when experience comes, it will be possible to throw at standing tree, but, naturally, in dry, and not in bloom, in chipboard. plywood. True, such exercises greatly damage knives.

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Experienced throwers make targets swinging on chains, although, I repeat, hitting them is only possible with very long and constant practice.

Knife throwing distance.

Speaking of distance, I would immediately like focus on a very close distance to the target, and in a combat situation, to the enemy. During the training, four such distances were identified. These are 1.25 m, 1.50 m, 1.75 m, and 2 m. I am not yet talking about throwing methods and the very important section - how to hold a knife (this will be done in the next chapter). While studying, the student must increase his skills at these distances, and only after that quietly move away, moving away from the target. These are real distances both for training and also in a combat situation, making it possible to quickly deal with the enemy. Then there is a very realistic distance of 2.5 and 3 m. Then 4-4.5 m. The most effective for me. Accordingly, 5 m, 6 m, 7 and 8 m. When the thrower moves to such a distance, he feels that idle talk even about 12 m, and even more so 15, 20, 30 m, is pure fiction and bluff. In terms of methodology, having mastered several of the listed distances, at the end of the training you should try to approach and move away from the target. This practice gives positive results in battle, when the distance will be difficult to determine by eye due to various weather or other circumstances. In general, in order to get closer to the enemy and implement your actions, a distance of 6-8 m is very good. In addition, you need to be a very good thrower, otherwise you will lose.

Ways to hold a knife in your hand

Remembering that in the previous chapter we outlined four close distances, I would like to say right away that you need to hit the target and the enemy from these distances while holding the knife by the handle. Knife
is held in the hand in this way: the blade is directed towards the stand or the enemy, the handle is in the palm, four fingers hold the handle from below, acting as a guide for the knife to fly out of the hand. The thumb, with the phalanx necessarily bent at an angle of 45" lying on the knife, should never extend beyond the line of the bent index finger and lie flat on the knife (Fig. 10).
None of the authors of works on knife throwing said a word about this. What does this method of holding a knife do? Properly placed on the handle, and also on the blade (we will look at this a little later),

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the thumb makes it possible to correctly aim the knife. The position of the finger on the knife determines whether the knife begins to tumble when thrown or not. Likewise, the thumb plays an important role in whether the knife hits the target horizontally or vertically. I have never seen this moment touched upon or illuminated by anyone. The thumb seems to twist the knife when it is released from the hand, pointing it to a point, horizontally or vertically. But, really, maybe these are the secrets of the masters. The knife is held by the blade in exactly the same way, taking into account the fact that one side of it is sharp and should protrude outward from the palm for several mm. throwing a knife by the handle from a distance of up to 2 m, this is done with one wave of the hand. The knife, without turning over anywhere, enters the target. But starting from 2 m, it is more convenient to throw the knife by the blade, and here, when releasing the knife from the hand, you should slightly cut the blade from bottom to top with a bent index finger. Then the knife, having made only half a turn, will stick its sting into the target.

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We must remember the rule that when throwing a knife by the blade from 2 m or 12 m, the knife should make only half a turn (Fig. 11). Throwing the knife by the handle from 5 m onwards, the knife should make a full revolution (Fig. 12). When a student, holding the blade, begins to try a distance of 5.5-6 m, then the knife should literally go into the palm a few mm at a time, but in these cases, no more than half of the handle should still be grasped by the palm.
The knife should not be held tightly or tightly, but tightly held with the fingers indicated in the grip. A very important circumstance is the position of the hand when throwing the knife, in its very final release phase (Fig. 13)

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In Fig. Figure 14 shows a variant of the correct and incorrect position of the hand.

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With the correct position of the hand, it seems to strike, and the knife looks up diagonally, somewhere at an angle of 45"; if the position is incorrect, the hand is tilted down, and usually the knife begins to somersault and hits the ground. When throwing a knife, the hand should be completely relaxed And only at the end, when releasing the knife, she, as if stopping, imitates the blow. The student’s eyes look at the point where he wants to hit, watching his hand with lower or lateral peripheral vision, directing and stopping his hand where he is looking. his eyes.
A classic example of all of these actions is distance 3 m, when the student, holding the knife by the blade, lightly touching the handle with his thumb and not extending his thumb beyond the area of the bent index finger, sends the knife to the target (Fig. 15).

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This throwing style is suitable for a distance of 2.5 to 4 m. At a distance of 1.75 to 2.5 m, the palm is placed on the knife to the middle of the blade.
Now that much has already been explained, I would like to talk about the need for sharpening knife blades. Of course, a master is always a master; he will throw a knife even without sharpening it, i.e. smooth. But if we talk about the high art of throwing, then the masters use a form of knife that is close to the heart and feeling. For a student, when he is required to learn this or that exercise, it is important to have some necessary detail that will increase his understanding of what is happening and his qualifications. So, when we are talking about the knife hitting the target horizontally or vertically, this is where we need to say how sharpening interferes or helps the result.
As already mentioned or shown above, there are different sharpenings. I returned to this topic once again to show how the thumb of the palm rests on the knife before throwing (Fig. 16).

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Much of what is shown above cannot even be explained; it is on the verge of intuition. But, while practicing, the student comes to the point where he begins to feel the distance, the knife and the sharpening edge with his finger, i.e., a feeling of understanding and sensation of the knife is born: when to press lightly, when to let go, so that the knife hits the target horizontally or vertically. I repeat once again, saying that the sharpening plays a very important role in the arrival of the knife at the target, and the thumb plays precisely this role when releasing the knife from the hand.

Hello friends!
I would like to bring to your attention a bare copy-paste. I have come across this text several times and in different sources. In the magazine “prorez” for 2000 there is a shaggy year, on Shirogorov’s office and somewhere else. Sentences and paragraphs were rearranged, but the essence remained unchanged and very IMHO correct. And it doesn’t matter anymore who stole Maryanko from Shigorov or vice versa. If they can do it, then I will do it too. I think the old knife wolves won’t learn much new, but it will be interesting for beginners.

Despite the fact that everyone’s knife requirements are different, there are a number of mistakes and misconceptions that almost everyone repeats – and both beginners and people with extensive experience are often mistaken.
Let's look at the 10 most popular mistakes when choosing a knife, so in the end you can clearly decide which knife you personally need.

1. Captivated by versatility.
The desire of many manufacturers to make a universal knife is commendable, in contrast to the results of their activities. In practice, it turns out that the knife has a saw with which it is impossible to saw through anything, files that instantly “go bald”, compasses that show north every time different sides and other “useful” things. And the square hollow handles in which the NAZ (emergency emergency reserve) is stored would seem - great idea, but in practice, the handle instantly rubs bloody calluses, and the NAZ is best assembled by yourself and fastened more securely - the knife can even be lost along with a backpack, for example, since few people want to wear this miracle on their belt, there are different situations.
Massive guards do not make it any easier to work with a heavy knife when setting up a camp - note that traditional machetes are made without a guard - yes, this is not so safe for an untrained person, but much more functional for any sensible person who does not grab the blade with his hands.

2. Captured by size.
Many people sincerely believe that the larger the utility knife, the better it is. A kind of cleaver, the length of which is half a meter, looks most attractive. How to perform purely everyday tasks like peeling potatoes? How about cleaning the fish? Iron argument - and the bear will come, what to do? It breaks down due to unforgiving practice - such a knife does not help anyone against a bear, here a larger caliber is better.
Even archaeologists confirm that in all centuries, universal knives were not knives. large sizes– and it doesn’t matter what material the knives were made of. According to the results of archaeological research, the traditional length utility knife ranges from 6 to 20 cm, the more popular length was 6-9 cm, the width of the knife is usually 1-2 cm, the thickness of the spine is 3-6 times thinner than the width value.
Yes, undoubtedly, there were large knives, but they were not universal, but special - for setting up a camp and as a weapon.
And universal knives for everyday work have always been small and convenient.
Many people recommend two knives - a large and a small utility knife. But in Russia, the option of combining a knife and an ax is considered more popular and practical. Often, despite more weight ax, only with its help can you fully and quickly set up a camp.

3. In strong captivity.
Durability for many has become a kind of standard for the suitability and “coolness” of a knife. As a result, not even knives are born, but rather objects that have external resemblance with knives. Thick pieces of iron with a spine more than 5 mm thick and a knife size of 25 cm are impressive. Yes, many survival experts believe that you can pry off a manhole cover with a knife (probably their taiga is well-equipped). How applicable is the requirement of fantastic strength to a utility knife? In ordinary life, you don’t have to use a knife to disassemble the wheels and press out the doors. Probably, the ideal for such a super strong knife could be a regular pry bar - it’s surprisingly strong and can withstand anything (not everything, of course, some even break pry bars). But how can you peel the same potatoes or gut fish with such a heavy and incredibly thick knife? Do you think this is convenient? Then try to do this at least at home in the kitchen in a comfortable environment.
In addition, thin does not mean fragile. When used correctly with a knife, it is for cutting, and not as a crowbar, that knives last for years!
The weight of a knife plays an important role when hiking, when you have to carry everything yourself. And 200 gr. permanent excess weight this is sometimes quite a lot. Especially if it's useless weight.

4. Captured by hardness.
“Look what hard knife!” - one of the most favorite reasons for boasting. After all, some simple criterion is needed, but for simplicity, many focus on the hardness of the steel from which the knife blade is made.
Knives made of very soft steel - 50 Rockwell units lose their sharpness very quickly, and many try to get a knife made of steel with high hardness - sometimes reaching up to 64 Rockwell units.
And it is completely overlooked that with such a high hardness the knife is very difficult to operate. Very often, the owners of such knives do not realize how fragile the cutting edge on the blade is and calmly open cans with a knife, the blade of which, due to improper loading, is in a hurry to crumble and then presents a pitiful sight - instead of a beautiful cutting edge, the owner sees a jagged, torn edge that rather saws, than it cuts. And attempts at self-sharpening are disastrous - such steels, as a rule, are sharpened with diamond abrasives, which, if used incorrectly, leave very deep grooves on the steel and do not create the most stable cutting edge. Sharpening with traditional abrasives, if possible, takes a very long time. long time– it will take hours before things start to work out.
The last thing you want is to be somewhere far from civilization to constantly be with a dull knife and waste time sharpening it, and quick sharpening with coarse diamond abrasives (if you carry them with you) will only lead to insufficient sharpness of the cutting edge and premature wear of the knife. for constant editing on coarse abrasives.
Therefore, the optimal hardness for a utility knife ranges from 56-57 for stainless steels, and up to 60 Rockwell units for carbon steels. Which one to prefer? personal choice everyone - stainless steel is much less demanding in terms of care, and carbon steels hold an edge longer and cut more pleasantly.

5. Captured by brands.
Many people believe that only well-known companies produce good knives. Yes, many world famous knife brands make good knives. But in our age, the owner’s name on a product no longer always means high quality knife More and more more companies locate their production in countries with cheap labor force.
Nevertheless, small companies founded by enthusiasts never cease to surprise with more and more new knives made from excellent materials, and companies with great history More and more people are thinking about how to do more and cheaper.
Many famous knife makers work either on their own or with a small team, while the queue for knives is often scheduled for 1-2 years and the point is not at all in the exclusivity of such knives (although this is also present), it’s in the attitude of the master to the knife - he really invests in it part of his soul, and not just soullessly slap him in the molds.
Many private craftsmen in Russia make amazing folding knives - both in terms of working and artistic characteristics; it is not at all necessary to order a knife somewhere overseas in order to get a knife made with soul, made for you taking into account your requirements, one that is more no one will have it.
Therefore, in no case should you disparage small manufacturers or craftsmen who make knives on their own; believe me, no assembly line at a large factory will make such soulful knives.

6. Captured by finances.
Good things don't come cheap! Fair point. But focusing only on price is unreasonable; a knife for 3 thousand rubles and a knife for 60 thousand will differ in the quality of the cut by more than 20 times.
Many excellent knives have a price in the range of 700-3000 rubles. Scandinavian knives from the brands Mora, Eka and others are especially good. These are excellent and reliable all-rounders, you won’t boast about them in company, but they will become your reliable companion and will help you out more than once. Excellent “workhorses” among knives - thoughtful and functional designs; you will not be disappointed if you give preference to Scandinavian knives, which are made by people with colossal practical application and a rich knife culture.
And if you accidentally lose or damage a knife, you won’t have to worry too much - the amount is not fantastic, you’ll go and buy yourself another one.

7. Captured by a stereotype - a folding knife is not serious.
Many people consider folding knives to be capricious and completely unsuitable for use outside urban conditions.
This is partly true. But if the knife is used only as a knife, then a folding option may be good. A folding knife takes up little space, is lightweight, often contains several tools, and there will be no problems with the police - but very often the police confiscate large knives from tourists, the return of which is always accompanied by hassle, and the vacation will definitely be ruined. And no ECC and test reports and conclusions are valid, a repeat examination will be required - to be honest, many simply do not want to get involved and the seized knife may well be appropriated by unscrupulous people from the police.
With a folding knife, despite its small size, it is quite possible to cut large animal- an experienced hunter who is well acquainted with the anatomy of animals can easily accomplish this. Even with one multitool you can cut up an elk - a video on this topic was once popular in narrow circles.
IN South America Okapi folding knives are very popular among the population, Opinel is popular in France, these knives can be bought without problems in Russia.
Take a closer look at them - excellent quality knives for little money, light and compact - great for picnics.

8. Captive of factory fantasies.
Many people believe that manufacturing is only possible in factory conditions. good knife. This myth is actively supported by many manufacturers - both Russian and foreign. But if foreign products in the knife industry can truly boast excellent examples, then Russian knives mass production is increasingly causing disappointment. Poor quality of fit, ill-conceived designs and, worst of all, poor and unstable heat treatment of the blades.
Often Russian manufacturers, in response to criticism of quality, say: “Are our knives bad? Just look at what individual craftsmen sculpt!”
In fairness, we admit that many sincerely believe that the best knife is obtained from a cutting saw, two rolls of blue electrical tape and half an hour of work on the sharpener. The result is something like a Stone Age knife made from modern materials.

Fortunately, such knives are not the majority - hundreds of craftsmen in Russia make knives for a wide variety of tastes, but they criticize knives, often forgetting that the master does not himself develop the concept of a knife, but embodies the wishes of the customer, often very far from the world of knives.
But when a master has freedom of creativity, then masterpieces are born - both high-quality, reliable working knives and simply works of art.
Here, more than anywhere else, the joke that professionals built the Titanic, and an amateur built the ark, is appropriate.
As for high-quality materials, it is extremely accessible to the individual craftsman. wide range materials for making knives - like materials for handles - any kind exotic plants are not found - literally from all countries of the world of all colors and shades, and steel - from personally forged strips of steel (we still have blacksmiths) and purchased from the best steel concerns in the world.
Private craftsmen, as a rule, cannot compete in price with factory assembly line production, especially if the knives are assembled in a country with cheap labor, but private master will listen carefully and make for you exactly the knife you want. No large company can offer you the production of a knife according to your order.
And in general, if we make a comparison, knives from private craftsmen are superior to factory-made knives. Russian ones are superior in quality, and foreign ones are superior in price.

9. Captured by the aura of professionals.
We often pay attention to the equipment of professionals, knives are no exception. Sometimes they give the example of special forces who found this or that knife in their equipment - “Yeah, since these specialists chose a knife, it means it’s the best!” And happily rubbing his hands, a person buys an army Ka-Bar or a bayonet knife, believing that this is the best choice.
In practice, officials in all countries are primarily guided by the quality of the knife and its ease of use when putting a model into service.
Here, the low price and foolproofness, i.e., come to the fore. strength and, as usual, personal interests.
Our classic example is the AKM bayonet; people who have encountered it know that THIS cannot be used as a knife. And the situation has not changed for many years.
Special forces, as a rule, purchase knives on their own - and while foreign soldiers receive enough salary to afford any knife, in Russia everything is not so rosy.
If we analyze which knives are popular among US soldiers, then these are the well-known three - Cold Steel, Benchmade and Spyderco. All three of these companies are not official suppliers of knives to the US army.
In addition, it should be taken into account that in army life a knife is much more often used for domestic purposes - opening a box, cutting food - than for murder. Professionals prefer to work from firearms rather than cutting with a knife.
If it comes to the knife, it means somewhere a mistake was made. And modern combat knives completely unsuitable for everyday use - they are created only for killing, and not for slicing bread.

10. Captured by technology.
Manufacturers are doing their best to promote exclusive steels, which are hardened almost in antelope milk. Assurances of corrosion resistance, extraordinary strength and hardness - all this is pouring down on the consumer like confetti in a New Year, and the abundance of materials on the handles is amazing, the sheath is only made of Kydex (and even though this is rarely convenient, the main thing is technology).
Prices immediately rise exponentially, and producers happily watch their bank accounts fill up.
Yes, a knife made of designer damask steel or damascus is very beautiful, as a collection item - simply wonderful. It’s nice to show off such a knife, but few people dare to work as a work of art.

Therefore, give a sober assessment - how much you are willing to pay to buy a knife for everyday work, and whether you are willing to overpay for the special steels and materials used in the manufacture of such a knife.
Now imagine that you broke or lost the knife? How critical is the loss of its value to you?
If the difference in the cost of a knife is 5 times, their cut does not differ by the same 5 times and sometimes it is better to separate knives for everyday tasks and knives that will only lie on the shelf.
To summarize, I would like to advise you to listen to your feelings more often and not chase the price tag, brand and fashion. 90% of the tasks that tourists and fisherman face are solved with the help of an inexpensive Scandinavian knife. The shape of these knives has been proven over centuries of use, and modern materials make them extremely practical, low prices– accessible.

Original copy-paste