List the dangerous phenomena accompanying volcanic eruptions. Signs of a volcanic eruption

Beautiful wavy locks have always been the pride of a woman. But what to do if nature has not endowed the lady with delightful curls? Nowadays, nothing is impossible, and in order to make your hair curly, you can use perm. The procedure can be done both in the salon and at home. How to make it at home will be discussed further.

About perm

How to do a perm at home? There is nothing complicated about this, just follow the instructions described below.

It is a difficult procedure and allows you to temporarily become the owner of curly hair. This styling helps you always look well-groomed. You can actually get a perm without leaving your home. Before carrying out this procedure, it should be borne in mind that even the most gentle products harm the hair and completely change its structure.

Types of hair curling

There are several types of hair perm, these are:

• Acidic. Provides long-lasting effect and reliable fixation. Suitable for any type of hair. Severely damages curls. After it is carried out, a number of restorative procedures are required.
• Alkaline. It's more soft look perm rather than acid perm. Helps create the effect of natural curls. Lasts for a long time, but is not suitable for all hair.
• Neutral. It is the most gentle method. Helps create wavy curls along the entire length, regardless of their condition and type.
• Amino acid. Suitable for owners of weakened and fragile strands. It not only curls curls, but also nourishes them with proteins and amino acids during the procedure.

Professional stylists come up with new ways to achieve curly hair every day, but despite this, many women wonder how to perm themselves at home.

Preparatory stage

Before you do a perm at home, you need to prepare for it. Twenty days before the event you cannot dye your hair. It would be a good idea to conduct a drug sensitivity test before perming. To do this, apply a little product behind the ear and wait a day. If allergic reaction does not follow, then the product can be used and, conversely, in case of irritation and rash, it is better to refuse to use the drug.

Before this event, you should see how the chemical reagent will act on your hair. To do this, a small curl is treated with a curling compound. If after a couple of minutes the strand breaks, then the concentration of the solution is halved. The procedure is repeated on another strand. If your hair still breaks, then you need to give up perm and pay attention to restoring and strengthening your hair.

All products for this event must match your hair type. For long bobbins, choose a larger diameter, for short ones - a smaller one. Be sure to evaluate the condition of your hair before curling. Weak strands should not be subjected to such an event.

Before the procedure, the curls are moisturized, which improves the absorption of the chemical solution, reduces the exposure time of the drug, makes the curl more natural and less damaging to the curls.

Tools for work

Before you do a perm at home with “Lokon”, you need to prepare your tools. For the procedure you will need:

• a comb with sparse teeth and a pointed end;
• curlers with a lock or bobbins of the required diameter, about 50-80 pieces;
• non-metallic containers;
• foam sponges;
• plastic clips;
• measuring cup;
• gloves and headband;
• cellophane cap;
• two towels.

To create curls, you can use not only “Lokon”, but also ready-made perm kits.

In addition to tools, you will need citric acid or vinegar in a concentration of 6% or 9%, shampoo, restoring balm, which is applied to the hair after “chemistry,” nourishing cream or Vaseline.

Stages of curling "Curl"

To learn how to do a perm at home with Lokon, you need to carefully read the instructions for the product. Perm with this product is divided into three stages: perm, neutralization and fixation.
Each step of this procedure has its own characteristics and is necessary to achieve beautiful curly strands.

Curling with "Curl"

How to do a perm at home (a photo of the result of the procedure can be seen below) will be discussed further. To carry out the procedure you should:

• Divide your hair into several parts. Each strand is processed by “Lokon”, combed and wound onto bobbins (curlers). After all the hair is curled, it is covered with a plastic cap and towel. WITH at this moment The curling time is counted.
• The exposure period is different for all hair. On soft strands, the drug is kept for up to 20 minutes, on normal-type hair - up to 16-18 minutes, on hard curls - no more than 10-12 minutes.
• After the specified time has passed, you should unfold several curls in different parts head and see the degree of curl. If a curl is not formed, then the strand is wound again on curlers. The next curl control is carried out after five minutes. This is done until the curl becomes the required form. The maximum exposure time for “Curl” on the hair is 45 minutes.
• After the curls are formed, the curling agent is washed off without removing the curlers or bobbins, being careful not to mix the strands with each other. A towel is applied to the hair to collect remaining moisture.

After curling the strands, they proceed to the stage of neutralizing the chemical substance.

Carrying out neutralization

To carry out neutralization you need:

• Dissolve a third of a teaspoon of lemon in a fourth of a glass of water. Grind 4 hydroperite tablets to a powder and add them to the citric acid solution. Add another quarter glass of water and half a teaspoon of shampoo here. That's all - the neutralization composition is ready.
• Each strand is generously moistened with a neutralizer. The procedure is carried out twice, spending exactly half of the prepared solution on the hair. After treatment, leave the hair for ten minutes.
• After the specified time, the curls are freed from the curlers and moistened with the remaining solution. Leave the neutralizer for another five minutes.

To fix curls, you can replace hydroperite with perhydrol. Here half a teaspoon of lemon is diluted in a quarter glass of water and 1.5 teaspoons of perhydrol are added there. Add another ½ cup of water to the resulting mixture. The consumption of the neutralizing agent is affected by the length and thickness of the scalp. The prepared composition must be used immediately and cannot be stored.

Fixation procedure

In order to consolidate the result, a third of a teaspoon of lemon is dissolved in a liter of boiled water and the hair is thoroughly rinsed with this solution. This operation is repeated 3-4 times. After this treatment, the hair is soft and pliable; all that remains is to comb and style it.

If the curls are severely discolored, then the volume of water in the solution should be increased to two liters, the proportion of citric acid does not change.

It’s not difficult to do a perm with “Lokon” at home; you just need to follow the instructions given above. All stages of the procedure must be performed sequentially.

Some ladies are interested in how to perm long hair with Curls at home. The procedure in this case is performed in exactly the same way as on strands of medium and short length. The only thing is that the curling options may be different. Here you can wind the curlers not along the entire length of the hair, but from the middle, or curl the hair only on the lower part.

How to do a perm at home without “Curl”?

You can do a perm at home without “Lokon” by purchasing ready-made kits for this event at a professional cosmetics store. The procedure includes the following steps:

• Before curling, you should wash your hair without conditioner or conditioner.
• Dry the strands slightly with a towel.
• Curl your hair in curlers, starting from the back of your head.
• Lubricate the skin around the head with Vaseline along the hairline.
• Apply curling agent. If you need soft curls, leave for 10 minutes; for strong curls, it takes half an hour.
• Put on a cap and wrap your hair with a towel.
• Check the curl by untwisting several curls: if the result is satisfactory, then wash off the product, and if the strand is not curled enough, wait another 5-10 minutes.
• Next, the hair is treated with a fixative. Leave for 10 minutes, remove the curlers and apply the remaining part of the fixative to the curls again. After 5 minutes, the hair is washed with water.
• The curls are rinsed with water and vinegar.
• A restorative agent is applied.

Before you perm yourself at home, you should carefully study the instructions for the finished kit. The curling agent is kept on average for 25 minutes on coarse hair, 20 minutes on medium hair and 15 minutes on fine hair.

Contraindications

Before you do a perm at home yourself, you need to take into account the skin’s tendency to allergies. In addition, the procedure is not performed on weakened and damaged strands or with alopecia. It is forbidden to do “chemistry” to women with bleached hair, as well as to blondes.

Perm is not carried out during the menstrual cycle and a few days after its end. It should not be done to pregnant or lactating women, or if a person is taking strong hormonal medications. Do not resort to the procedure for colds and infectious diseases.

Basic rules

Perming strands at home requires special attention. When carrying out this procedure, you should adhere to the following rules:

• If the curls were treated with a reducing agent, then the perm is done when they are completely cut off.
• “Chemistry” is done only when the previous perm has completely disappeared from the hair.
• Metal products should not be used during the procedure.
• To avoid damaging the skin of the hands and the nail plate, the procedure is carried out using rubber gloves.
• If the drug gets into your eyes, they should be rinsed immediately with water.
• To speed up the formation of curls, you cannot use a hair dryer, as this will increase the degree of damage to the hair.
• If there is damage to the skin of the head (abrasions, wounds), the procedure is not performed.

Compliance with the above rules will help you avoid unwanted consequences and achieve the desired result.

About caring procedures

Even a correctly performed procedure using the most gentle preparations can cause damage to the hair. Therefore, special attention should be paid to hair after “chemistry”:

• actively use special restorative agents;
• Do not use a hair dryer for several days after curling and comb your curls as little as possible;
• do nourishing masks at least once a week and for at least 10 sessions;
• Strands should be protected from exposure to ultraviolet rays;
• You can dye your scalp only a couple of weeks after the “chemistry”;
• To an aggressive method of gaining curls, you should prefer a more gentle one, for example, bio-perm.

A perm done at home looks no worse than a salon perm. The main thing is not to rush and follow the sequence of all actions.

Curling without curling irons or curlers

Next we will talk about how to do a perm at home without curlers and curling irons. These devices can successfully replace cotton rags. To do this, the unnecessary item is cut into strips, the width of which for large curls is about 8 cm, for small curls - 3 cm.

Paper papillots will also help save the situation. To do this, cut out narrow strips from polished paper, twist them into tubes, and secure the end with tape. The strands on them are arranged in a spiral from top to bottom. The tube is twisted into a ring and secured with a bobby pin or hairpin. This type of curling helps to get large and tight curls.

Braids can help replace curlers and curling irons. With their help you can give your hair the desired volume and waviness. Braids are braided on damp, clean strands. The more braids, the smaller the curls will be. Similar manipulations are done at night, and the hair should be slightly dried with a hairdryer before going to bed.

There are many more ways to curl without curling irons or curlers. They cause less damage to the hair, and the result is quite decent.

How to do a perm at home for short, medium and long hair was written above. From this we can conclude that the procedure does not cause any particular difficulties for women, and the effect is no different from the salon one.

A simple procedure - perm, which was invented by the German hairdresser Karl Nessler in 1908, for more than hundred year history constantly improved and acquired analogues. What is modern chemistry?

Today, perm is one of the most popular hairdressing procedures. However, each person's hair and scalp have their own characteristics, so you need to select the type of curl only in accordance with your type.

Acid in the fight for curls

The most proven and, perhaps, the most old way creating a curl. The procedure gives stable and long-lasting results. Chemical acid hair perm lasts up to six months, and with proper care even longer.

However, this method of giving your hair a neat look has a number of disadvantages. The main one is hair dehydration. Curls become dry and hard, as the product used penetrates deep into the hair and spoils it (the bonds in the proteins are broken).

Acid perm is suitable for all hair types, and is not becoming less popular.

Lye – the opposite effect

Compared to previous methods of creating beautiful curls, alkaline curling is more gentle. The effect of the procedure lasts about 3 months and does not damage the hair structure as much. The curls look natural and natural, which cannot but please the fair half.

Unfortunately, this method of applying chemicals to hair is not suitable for everyone. Owners of straight and hard strands are better off using a different curling method, since after treatment with alkali they will return to their previous shape after a month.

The most universal way to get soft, natural curls is a neutral curling method. It is suitable for absolutely everyone, especially if there is structural damage.

Regardless of hair type, the results will be positive and long-lasting.

Neutral hair curling allows you to create large curls based on allantoin, avoiding overdrying and pH imbalance.

The safest acid perm method is carried out using thioglycolic acid. Experts allow the procedure to be carried out even on colored strands. The process occurs due to the swelling of the hair, which protects it from injury.

The only drawback of the service is that the splendor disappears after 5 weeks. On coarse and straight hair, the effect will be less noticeable, so you will have to resort to a second procedure earlier than usual.

Amino Acid – Protein Based Health

The amino acid type of perm is the most optimal way to create romantic strands on short hair Oh. The trauma of this procedure to the hair is minimized, which allows you to keep its structure healthy and intact.

The drug used contains proteins. They nourish the hair, are absolutely harmless and create a natural protective shell. The weighting effect does not allow the use of amino acid perm for long and thick hair.

Biowave - expensive and safe

The most modern and safe chemical hair perm is called bio. This method is effective not only for creating curls, but also in the process of healing hair.

Biowave is carried out on the basis of drugs where harmful chemicals were replaced with natural extracts. All components penetrate into the deep layers of the hair and restore damaged areas. Beauty and health to your curls are guaranteed.

Carving is a fashion trend

A completely new and unique installation method was recently patented by Schwarzkopof. Carving is performed using gentle means that do not harm either the hair or the scalp.

The technique of creating strands will help solve even such problems as tangles, lack of volume and difficulties with combing. Suitable for everyone with any hair type and length.

All types of perm have been repeatedly tested and are fully available in any specialized institution. However, before subjecting your hair to chemical or therapeutic effects, it is worth consulting with a professional, determining the type and degree of damage to the structure.

How does the procedure work?

The perm procedure depends on the artist, since they all resort to their favorite techniques and build the work process based on their experience and knowledge. In most cases, stylists rely on a single curling pattern that has remained unchanged for a long time.

Standard hair perm scheme

The first thing the hairdresser does before the actual procedure is to thoroughly wash the client’s hair with deep cleaning shampoo. Then the future curls are wound onto special bobbins. Their size is determined by the length of the hair and your preferences. So, if you want to get large curls during the hair curling process, then you will need devices with a maximum diameter and vice versa.

After the hairstyle has been prepared, the hair is quickly treated with a chemical solution or special harmless preparations. Each bobbin is processed separately and covered with an insulating cap.

The chemical on the hair must be maintained for 20 to 35 hairs. More accurate data is determined by the master for each hair type separately. After the time has passed, the bobbins are untwisted in several places to check the curling effect.

At the end of the procedure, the hair is washed to remove any remaining drug and treated with a fixative. After 5 minutes, the bobbins are removed and the finished curls are again treated with a fixing agent. After a few minutes, the hair should be thoroughly rinsed again.

The main mistakes of masters or how to understand that the chemistry was done poorly for you

After the procedure, many are faced with the fact that they do not know how to determine the quality of the procedure performed. Craftsmen often hide their mistakes and, ultimately, the client receives something completely different from what he saw in the photo in the service catalog.

When you come to a salon or hairdresser, first of all ask about the experience of the specialist. Remember that you trust the person with your hair and image. A good hairstylist must offer you a curling method that suits your hair structure. To do this, he will have to conduct a strand tensile test and a drug sensitivity test.

If your hair is not suitable for perm, then the hairdresser has every right to refuse you the procedure. This applies to bleached, unhealthy curls that have recently been dyed with henna.

The following facts will help you determine if the procedure was performed incorrectly:

• the composition flows onto the scalp, causing irritation;
• the hairdresser uses very tight elastic bands, which stretches the hair too much;
• hair is divided into large strands;
• expired product;
• use of metal utensils and tools.

All these minor details in the work of a hairdresser will certainly affect the final result. Hair may become brittle and dry, or many strands may remain uncurled. Incorrect hair perm will only aggravate existing problems and deprive the curls of structure and shine.

Hair care after perm

Hair needs constant care, and after perm it requires even more attention. All funds should be aimed at protecting, maintaining the shape of curls and recovering from stress.

After the procedure

Even if you permed according to the most modern methods, then your hair still requires special care. To maintain the effect, it is not recommended to wash your hair for at least two days after the procedure. The hair should be left at rest, which will allow the keratin to attach to the newly created curls. In the future, protect them from exposure to the sun, wind, and chlorinated water.

Washing hair after perm

After the specified time after chemistry, all attention and care must be focused on the hair. New suitable products should appear in the bathroom. The best option is a complex of shampoo and hair balm with permanent. If you don't have it, you can use a mild, gentle shampoo.

Starting from the 4-5th wash, it is advisable to start using medicinal cosmetics. This will prevent the formation of split ends and help restore the hair structure. To ensure that the curls retain their shape, gently pat them dry with a towel and shape the curls with your hands. Try not to resort to straighteners and hair dryers. Be sure to go to bed with your hair dry.

Hair restoration

First of all, perming deprives hair of moisture. You can combat dryness with the help of both pharmacy, store-bought, and home remedies. The main thing is that all products must be of high quality. The minimum course is 10 sessions.

Homemade masks for damaged hair or burdock oil will help restore water balance. Hair that lacks shine should be washed with protein shampoo. This will give them back what they lost nutrients.

Remember that it is best to perm on healthy hair. Then you won’t have to treat and restore them for a long time. It’s better to do the opposite: cure and then curl. Believe me, you will like the effect much more!

How to do a perm at home

If for some reason you are not ready to leave your hair in the hands of professionals, then there are now a number of products that allow you to perm at home.

Testing the product

Having purchased such a complex, first of all do an allergy test for the components of the drug. Soak a cotton swab in the product and wipe the area of ​​skin behind the ear. Leave for 10 minutes, wipe with a mixture of water and hydrogen peroxide.

It is also necessary to test the perception of the drug by hair. To do this, you need to moisten the strand with liquid, leave it for a few minutes and try to break it. If the hair feels normal, then this perm is suitable for your hair type. If the curl has become brittle and breaks, then dilute the product with water and carry out a similar experiment on another strand.

We do the perm ourselves

The first stage is cleansing. Curl your damp and clean hair into curlers of the size you would like to wear for the next few months. Curl your hair without pulling too much.

Pour the hair perm liquid into a ceramic or plastic dishes. Soak a foam sponge in the solution and apply to curlers. Moving from the back of the head to the forehead, distribute the product. Cover your hair with plastic wrap and wrap it with a towel. Follow the time specified in the instructions.

Rinse your hair with warm water without untwisting the curls. Dry the curlers with a towel. Then apply the fixative and leave for a few minutes. Remove the curlers and apply the fixer again at the same time. Rinse your hair with warm water.

The procedure is done, all that remains is to rinse your hair with an acidified solution and apply a nourishing mask. Once your hair is dry, you will be able to enjoy amazing curls.

You will have cute small curls and “Hollywood” curls; this hairstyle always remains stylish and emphasizes feminine beauty. Now, hair perm not only helps women refresh and diversify their everyday look, but also helps improve their structure. Don't be afraid to experiment, follow all the recommendations and rules and enjoy your reflection in the mirror!

The perm was invented by hairdresser Karl Nessler in November 1906. His first client was his wife. For hair health, permanent curling is, of course, not the most useful method, but beauty, as they say, requires sacrifice, and the number of girls turning to a beauty salon to get the desired curls is growing.

Hair perm methods

Hair perming can be divided according to the type of chemical composition that is used to treat the hair. Our mothers and grandmothers curled their hair using an acid and alkaline permanent wave. These methods are still relevant, in addition, acid and alkaline perms last on the hair for as long as possible - from six months or more.

Acid hair curling

The curling agent penetrates into the hair without exposing its outer scales. This results in a very tight curl. However, if you have thin and soft hair, this type of curling is contraindicated for you - the curls will quickly lose their shape and stretch out at the roots. For those with sensitive scalps and dry, brittle hair, this type of chemical is also not suitable, it will completely destroy your hair, and you will have to cut your hair very short and treat your hair with masks.

Acid perm using thioglycolic acid is very fragile; lush curls lose their volume after just over a month. However, this is the most hair-friendly method. This perm is recommended even for recently dyed hair.

Alkaline hair curling

less persistent, lasts up to 3 months. The curls are elastic and look natural. Unlike acid perm, here the drugs penetrate into the hair, opening its outer scales. This procedure is gentler on the hair, but still not suitable for many hair types. If your hair is straight, coarse and heavy, it will become even less durable and will last about a month. Alkaline curls are cheaper than acid curls.

Neutral hair curl

has long been known for its softening properties and is suitable for all hair types. The chemical composition of the drug includes allantoin, the curls are strong and elastic, and the curl itself is relatively stable and will last from three months to six months, depending on your hair type.

Amino acid hair curling

contains amino acids and proteins. They nourish and heal the hair, which helps minimize the negative effects of chemicals on the hair. The curls are soft and look natural. Unfortunately, curls don't last long. This method is not suitable for hard, heavy and long hair, because curls will develop very quickly under the weight of its own

Hair curling "Silk wave"

The product contains silk proteins, which care for hair and do not damage the hair structure. Even bleached hair looks healthier after such “chemistry”.

Biowave hair

The composition of the biowave does not include ammonia, hydrogen peroxide and thioglycolic acid; they are replaced with a drug similar to the hair molecules that connect the sulfur bridges of the hair. Curling based on such preparations not only gives hair long-lasting curls, but also gives it an absolutely natural and healthy looking. There are several bio-curls technologies, for example, “Angel Curls” or Italian technology using bamboo extract.

Japanese hair curl

with lipid-protein complex LC2 is recommended for weakened hair. It is more durable than silk, and the biphasic lipid-protein complex regulates hair moisture, maintaining shine and elasticity. The cost is approximately the same as for the “silk wave”.

American hair curl

ideal for hair medium length. The difference between the American perm and other types is that it uses special complex designs made from Olivia Garden curlers.

Root chemistry

An excellent solution for short hair and shoulder-length hair that lacks volume. Root chemo is also done when permed hair has grown noticeably. Root chemicals for straight hair will allow you to lift the hair, for example, at the back of the head. The effect of this type of curling is lost as the hair grows, and at the roots it will be noticeable within a month. Curling the ends of the hair is an excellent solution for thin, sparse hair, cut in steps or in a cascade. The hair becomes fuller and serves as an excellent base for creating hairstyles.

Wellaformers replaced curlers and curlers. In beauty salons, hair curling technology has recently appeared using latex bags that compress and curl the hair. This device is called a wellaformer. As a result of using this new product, you will get tons of voluminous yet soft wavy curls. When curling hair with wellaformers, it should be of medium length or slightly longer. This is due to the fact that the hair at the roots in this case remains straight.

A good hairdresser in a good salon will definitely tell you what type of curl is best for your hair. Before the procedure itself, professionals in their field will first of all conduct a strand tensile test and a reagent test on the skin. A skin test behind the ear is done to determine if you are allergic to the selected composition. After this, you will be asked to do a test on one strand with the selected drug. This is required in order to determine the concentration of the composition suitable for your hair type. If after using the drug they look dull and unhealthy, then the concentration of the drug is reduced.

In some cases, the stylist may refuse to perm your hair. For example, if they are discolored or unhealthy to the point that many of the hairs in the test strand break when pulled. The reason for refusing to perform the procedure may be ordinary henna. It clogs the hair scales and prevents the product from penetrating inside. Before applying chemicals to your hair, you will be asked to make an alcohol-oil complex to draw out the remnants of henna from your hair, but one session is not enough.

If you've recently dyed your hair, you'll need to wait a bit longer to curl your hair. It is not recommended to do chemistry during “critical days”. If you were going to cut your hair and curl it, then do the chemistry first, and then the final haircut, but not vice versa.

If the master immediately offered you a perm without preliminary testing, or the salon only practices one type of permanent hair perm, which may not suit you at all, it is better to find another master in another salon.

There are two methods of performing a perm: direct and indirect.

Direct method. Each strand is moistened with a chemical composition and wound onto bobbins according to classic scheme.

Winding according to the classical scheme (Fig. 1, a) begins from the lower occipital zone of the head. Then the hair of the middle and upper occipital zones is curled, then the temporolateral and, finally, the parietal. All hair is curled in the direction of its natural growth.

Indirect method. Wet hair is wound onto bobbins according to any pattern (Fig. 2, b, c), and then moistened with a chemical composition.

a - classic; b - directional; c - variable

Wetting the hair with the composition in this case is carried out in three steps:

*a small amount of the composition is applied to the hair to soften it slightly;

*a medium amount of the composition is applied to the hair to thoroughly moisten it;

*carry out control wetting of hair.

The composition begins to be applied from the lower occipital zone.

After choosing the perm method, you begin to wind your hair with bobbins, taking into account the following:

• the width of the strand should not exceed the length of the bobbin;
• the thickness of the twisted strand should not be greater than the diameter of the bobbin;
• The strands must be pulled strictly perpendicular to the head.
• One perm requires 50g of the composition.

Put an insulating cap on the curled hair and leave the mixture on for 10 to 40 minutes. The exposure time depends on the concentration of the chemical composition and the condition of the hair. When using climazone, the exposure time is halved.

After some time, it is necessary to check the quality of the curl, for which they unwind (not completely, but only 1-2 turns) and twist 3-4 bobbins back into different zones, and also compare the diameters of the bobbin and the resulting curl. If these diameters coincide, then proceed to the next stage: the composition is washed off hot water without unwinding the bobbins.

Then fixation is performed by laying a napkin tourniquet along the edge hairline so that the fixer does not get on the face.

Currently, two types of fixer are produced: ready-made and concentrated.

For one fixation you need 50g of fixer (3-5% concentration of hydrogen peroxide). If the fixer is ready, it is applied using a sponge or applicator to the bobbins and foamed so that a foam cap is formed. The exposure time of the composition on the hair is 10 minutes. If the fixer is concentrated, it must be diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio before application.

After the foam has settled, the bobbins are untwisted and the fixer is applied to the ends of the hair for another 5 minutes. Then the fixer is washed off with clean water.

After this, final work is performed: neutralization with a special composition, styling, cutting, drying, etc.

Perm performed using braids and bobbins

Wet hair is divided into zones, as shown in Fig. 2, a.

a - division of hair into zones;b - braided braids with ends twisted onto bobbins;c - the resulting hairstyle; arrows indicate the direction of hair separation

The area of ​​the first row of braids should be 5cm wide. The number of braids depends on the thickness of the hair; The thickness of each braid is 2-2.5 cm. The hair is braided tightly; The ends are not braided, but wound onto bobbins and secured with an elastic band.

The zone of the second row of braids should be slightly wider than the zone of the first row, and the third - wider than the zone of the second row.

In this way, the hair is processed row by row up to the top of the back of the head.

Strands of hair in the temporolateral and parietal zones are braided into thicker braids (3-3.5 cm).

After all the hair is braided and the ends of the braids are twisted onto bobbins, they are impregnated on all sides with a chemical composition and left for 15-25 minutes, depending on the condition and structure of the hair. Then the braids with bobbins are washed very thoroughly with water (t = 50...60°C) and a fixer is applied, which is kept for 10 minutes. Next, the fixer is washed off with water, the bobbins are removed, the braids are undone, and the hair is washed with water again.

At the end of the perm, the hair is washed with a medicinal emulsion and combed with a large-toothed comb.

Dry hair naturally or with a hair dryer.

The hairstyle turns out natural, with large curls.

This combined method of chemical perm is recommended for those who do not curl their hair with curlers.

To make hair look lush and thick, as well as to make it easier to style, the root method of perm is used (Fig. 3). It is recommended for sparse or excessively grown hair after perming, as well as for hairstyles in which it is necessary to create volume at the roots of the hair.

The essence of the root method of curling is that not all the hair is curled, but only part of it at the root, leaving the ends of the strands straight or maintaining the same curl on them.

You can start wrapping from any area of ​​the head. However, it must be borne in mind that if the hair has previously been permed, then the bobbin should be wound at a distance of 2 cm from the regrown part of the hair. For example, if the hair has grown 8cm, then the bobbin is installed at a distance of 10cm from the edge of the hair.

The strand is wound around the bobbin in a figure eight. In this case, the end of the strand is in the left hand, and with the right hand they hold the part of it that is located on the bobbin. Having made the required number of turns towards the hair roots, the bobbin is secured with an elastic band.

Having twisted all the hair in this way, proceed to the next stage of their processing: a chemical composition is applied to each bobbin so that it does not get on the untwisted ends of the hair.

The exposure time is 10-25 minutes (depending on the hair structure).

All subsequent stages of root perm are similar to the stages of classic perm.

Spiral hair perm using modified bobbins

There are two ways to perform spiral perm (Fig. 4).

Spiral perm and two ways to do it

A strand of hair is separated in the form of a square (starting from the lower occipital area), twisted into a rope and wound in a spiral onto a bobbin. In this case, the turns of the spiral are placed close to each other. The direction of twisting the tourniquet and the direction of winding it onto the bobbin must coincide.

A strand of hair is separated in the form of a square (starting from the lower occipital zone), while it is not twisted into a bundle, but is immediately wound in a spiral onto a bobbin, placing the turns close to each other.

Corrugated hair perm start from the lower occipital zone. Select a strand of hair in the form of a square and tightly wind it onto a plastic hairpin using the figure eight principle. Next, all stages of classic perm are performed.

With a corrugated perm, you get the same curl as with a perm using braids.

Perm on boomerangs (Fig. 6) allows you to get a voluminous curl. In this case, the bobbins are wound in a checkerboard pattern. All other stages are the same as in a classic perm. The width of the strand should not exceed the diameter of the bobbin.

Perm hair with ring curls

Perm with ring curls (Fig. 7) is used to create volume on short hair. The hair is divided into strands in the form of squares, the size of which depends on the desired effect, and arranged in a checkerboard pattern. The larger the square, the more voluminous the resulting curl will be. The end of the strand is wrapped in a special piece of paper, the strand is twisted into a ring curl and secured with a non-metallic curler.

Perm hair - Types and types

Perm has long story, and it was a long time before this procedure was perfected. After all, just recently, in all Soviet hairdressing salons, clients were curled in the same style so that they looked like lambs. Such chemistry looked unnatural and even comical; on top of everything else, it also burned hair - in a word, it disfigured women as much as possible.

Nature has endowed few representatives of the fair sex with luxuriant curls. But charming curls suit almost everyone - they make a woman's facial features softer, giving them a femininity. And for those who always want to have beautiful hairstyle with curly hair, there is a wonderful solution - perm, which can completely change a woman’s image and hide some imperfections in her face shape.

Chemistry is an auxiliary method for hair styling. She prepares her hair for curling. Recommended for those who use curlers or curling irons every day. In addition, thanks to chemistry, the problem associated with oily hair is eliminated.

The curly hair effect usually lasts for 3-4 months depending on the quality of the chemical composition. But, nevertheless, it should be taken into account individual characteristics structure of human hair.

Currently, dramatic changes have occurred in the field of hair perm. Modern chem. The curling department has high-quality, highly effective preparations and means that allow any improvisation of curling from the smallest to the largest curl. All that remains from the previous chemistry is the principle of hair curling, which is based on changing the structure of the hair. Everything regarding the methods of approach to the procedure and the method of curling, they have improved so much that this has allowed modern chemistry to damage the hair at a minimal level.

There are many types and types of hair perm:

Types of hair perm

Acid-based curling. Provides long-lasting hold, suitable for all hair types, but has a damaging effect on hair strong impact.

Alkaline perm. This type has a softer effect on the hair and gives curls natural look, but is not suitable for all hair types and lasts no more than 3 months.

Neutral curl. It has a gentle effect on the hair due to the fact that this curling method is pH neutral. Suitable for all hair types, works equally well on all areas of the hair, regardless of the degree of hair damage.

Amino acid perm. The amino acids and proteins contained in the composition penetrate into the hair during the procedure and help it recover faster.

Types of hair perms

Curling on curlers creates the effect of naturally curly hair with light wavy curls falling on top of each other.

Spiral perm great for long hair. After curling, the small spirals curl into rings without twisting with each other.

Perm “on a pigtail” Suitable for shoulder length hair and below. Strands braided into small tight braids, the ends of which are twisted into bobbins, are treated with a chemical composition.

Perm “on a stiletto heel” Looks good on shoulder length hair. Strands of hair are wound onto a hairpin made of non-metallic material.

Perm with twisting the second bobbin- part of the strand is wound onto one bobbin, and then “twisted” the second. The result is curls of varying sizes.

Perm “children’s”. Its purpose is to eliminate the influence of the composition on the scalp. The head is covered with a plastic cap, strands are pulled through the holes in it and a regular perm is done.

Basal A perm is performed on the part of the strand adjacent to the scalp to create fullness at the roots or to obtain curls at the roots of the hair if the hair that was previously permed has grown back.

Unfortunately, perming has a strong impact on the hair structure, which in some cases can lead to serious problems. To minimize the possible adverse effects of perm, follow these simple rules:

• do not dye your hair before perm;
• If you are sick, put off getting a perm;
• choose curling products that contain less alcohol and lots of nutrients;
• to wash your hair after a perm, use a special shampoo for permed hair or a mild shampoo for damaged and weakened hair;
• to moisturize and strengthen your hair, restore its shine and silkiness, make hair masks containing useful substances(moisturizing panthenol and keratin, collagens, silk proteins), as well as hot masks using hair oil;
• after a perm, the ends of your hair often begin to split, so regularly trim the ends of your hair a little or apply a special cream to the ends of your hair;
• For better preservation If you have curls, comb your hair only with wide-toothed combs.

Perm as a process and mechanism of change...

Perm as a process

The mechanism of changing hair shape during perm. Perm is a process as a result of which the hair becomes full and supple, and the strands curl into curls of varying sizes and rigidity. A wide variety of hairstyles are performed using perm. The main task of this procedure is to make the hair able to maintain its desired shape. The principle of operation of any of the permanents entering the market today is the same as it was 60 years ago.

Human hair is composed of keratin, a water-insoluble protein containing spindle-shaped cells. In turn, keratin consists of amino acids, one of which is cystine, which stabilizes the protein structure, but under the influence of perm preparations, it breaks down at the site of the cystine bond:

S - CH2 - CH(NH2) - COOH

S - CH2 - CH(NH2) - COOH

Once this bond is broken, the hair becomes pliable. Since the hair is wound onto bobbins, in cross section they take the shape of an ellipse. It is known that straight hair is round in cross section, wavy hair has the shape of an ellipse, and strongly curly hair has a flattened ellipse (Fig. 82).

To restore the elasticity of the hair, oxidation should be carried out, for example, with a weak 1-3% solution of hydrogen peroxide or a ready-made fixer. In this case, the cystine bond is restored. However, due to the hydrolysis of keratin amino acids under the action of a perm preparation on them, irreversible processes also occur - a decrease in hair mass.

The chemical process occurs at pH = 9 - 11; The higher the pH of the composition, the stronger its effect on the hair. The hair swells faster, the S-S cystine bonds are broken faster, but the hydrolysis of hair amino acids also occurs more actively. Therefore to

The choice of exposure time and concentration of the drug should be approached individually, depending on the Hair, its structure, condition (dry, oily, normal), and the effect of oxidative dyes on the hair.

Stages of perm. There are three stages of perm. On First stage They produce chemical effects using compounds and physical effects using bobbins. These two processes are called plasticization.

On Second stage They produce a chemical effect - they secure the newly formed bonds with the help of a fixer.

On Third stage Neutralization is carried out - hardening of keratin.

The principle of perm. The strength of the hair is ensured by the presence of disulfur bridges, which create an internal connection in the keratin chains and give the hair its shape.

IN first phase perm, a chemical process of deoxidation occurs. The deoxidizer brings hydrogen into the hair, which breaks the disulfur bridges. During this phase, chemical action occurs.

In second phase Cheating occurs. The hair changes shape when wound with bobbins. The broken disulfur bridges in the keratin chains are displaced and the hair takes on a bobbin shape. During this phase, mechanical action occurs.

IN third phase Fixation occurs.

Thanks to the oxidizing agent contained in the fixative, oxygen is released. By combining with hydrogen, it restores disulfur bridges. Hair is fixed in new form. Its integrity and strength returns to it, but in a new form (Fig. 83). During this phase, chemical action occurs.

The ideal percentage of deoxidation is 30% of destroyed disulfur bridges, which allows you to get an elastic curl and maintain the quality of the hair. On average, this means that every third bridge must be broken. To do this, it is very important to choose the right chemical composition and accurately observe the exposure time. For example, if you choose too strong a chemical composition or increase the exposure time, the hair will become sensitive and will not hold its shape well. On the contrary, if you choose a weak chemical composition or reduce the holding time, the curl will be very weak, and such a chemical perm will last a very short time.

Alkalinity and acidity of solutions. A chemical indicator of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution is expressed through pH. pH scale incl.

Some values ​​range from 0 to 14; clean water, considered a Neutral Substance, corresponds to a value of 7 in the middle of the scale. A solution with a pH value below 7 is Acidic, and a pH value above 7 is Alkaline. An alkaline solution causes hair to soften and swell, while an acidic solution causes hair to shrink and harden. There are instruments and paper indicators with a special composition for determining the pH of various solutions. Thus, when a piece of paper soaked in nitric acid salts is immersed in an alkaline environment, its darkening is noted. In an acidic environment there is little or no color change. If you wet your hair with water and check the pH, the resulting value in the range from 4.4 to 5.5 will correspond to the norm of a slightly acidic reaction. Perm compositions have a pH of about 10 with a shift towards the alkaline side. The acidity index in neutralizing substances is about 3, this indicator is located on the acidic side of the scale. Until the master studies the condition of the client’s hair and has data on previously carried out cosmetic procedures, you should not use solutions with a pH closer to 7. Ignorance can lead to damage to the client's hair.

Alkaline perm. The main active ingredient in an alkaline curling lotion is ammonium thioglycolate, a chemical compound formed by the reaction of ammonia with glycolic acid, the pH of an alkaline curling lotion is usually 8.2-9.6 depending on the amount of ammonia. This composition penetrates the hair faster than the acid-balanced one. Sometimes alkaline perms are performed using a perm compound with water, some hair requiring a plastic hood, others not.

The benefits of alkaline perms include Stronger curls (usually last longer); possibility of processing at room temperature.

Alkaline perm is used to style hair that is difficult to process, as well as to obtain a mulberry curl if the client’s previously obtained a perm that was too weak.

Acid balanced perm. The main active ingredient in acid-balanced formulations is glyceryl monotiglycolate. Its pH is lower than that of an alkaline composition. This formulation is gentler on the hair and usually produces less tight curls than an alkaline cold perm. An acid-balanced lotion has a pH of approximately 4.5-6.5 and penetrates the hair more slowly than an alkaline lotion, so the hair treatment takes longer. The heat used in this case can be of two types: from the most chemical reaction(exothermic

Czech method); from an external source - usually a climazone or an infraheater (endothermic method).

Recently, new acid-balanced formulations have been developed that allow curling at room temperature. They have a slightly higher pH than regular ones, but the active ingredient is the same.

The benefits of an acid-balanced perm are softer curls and a longer but controlled treatment time. An acid-balanced perm is done if the hair is naturally fragile or dyed; In order to get curls or waves close to natural, perm serves as the basis of the hairstyle. The disadvantage is that an acid-based perm is less durable than a classic (alkaline-based) one; after 4-6 weeks, the hair becomes less voluminous.

Composition of neutralizers. Neutralizers for acid-balanced and alkaline perms perform the same function: to fix curls for a long time. Neutralization is very important stage. If the hair is not neutralized correctly, the curl may weaken or develop after shampooing. Basically, neutralizers consist of a relatively small amount of hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent and an acidic pH. Methods for using neutralizers vary.

Neutral perm. Just like an alkaline-based perm, it has a pH value of 7.4, but is much more gentle than acid-based chemicals.

Scientists developed the neutral perm method taking into account the fact that hair has so-called hydrophilic zones (water-repellent), which easily absorb excess perm liquid, unlike hydrophobic zones. Neutral perms smooth out these differences. It protects sensitive areas, while healthy areas begin to absorb liquid more actively. As a result, the hair does not experience additional stress, as it does not swell too much. Neutral perms are ideal for clients whose hair feels rough after a perm and requires more protection. A special keratin complex, already during perm, smoothes out damage in the stratum corneum and takes care of the elasticity and stability of the hair.

Choosing a permanent. The decision about what type of permanent should be used (acid-balanced or alkaline) is made based on the type of hair.

Modern permanent treatments offer a wide range of choices. There are alkaline compositions for bleached Hair and acid-balanced ones - for hard, unruly hair. Each of them gives excellent results, provided the right choice and compliance with instructions.

Preparatory work. Preparatory work for perm includes:

*Preparation of the workplace;

*Inviting the client to the chair;

*Conducting dialogue;

*Washing hands and disinfecting instruments;

Preparation of devices: two non-metallic bowls (one for composition, the other for fixer), two sponges (small for composition, large for fixer), applicators, gloves, measuring cup, insulating cap and bobbins;

Combing hair and performing diagnostics: determination of hair condition (natural, dyed, bleached), texture (thick, medium, thin), structure (oily, normal, dry), length: up to 15 cm or more, sensitivity (test: applied on the bend of the elbow or behind the ear composition and stand for 5-10 minutes);

Covering the client with linen;

Perform hygienic washing.

All haircuts with a clear, geometric shape are performed before perm.

Types and sizes of bobbins. Bobbins can be concave or straight. Concave bobbins are narrower in the center, gradually towards the ends

Expand; As a result, the curl is steeper at the end and looser at the roots of the hair. The diameter of the Straight Bobbin is the same along the entire length, and the curl is even. The bobbin is equipped with an elastic band (elastic band) attached to one end and secured to the other when the hair is already curled.

When choosing the bobbin size, you need to take into account the desired number of curls and physical characteristics hair. The number of waves, curls and volume of hair are determined by the master and the client in a preliminary conversation. The type of hairstyle depends primarily on the size of the bobbins, their number and placement on the head. When choosing bobbin sizes, hair characteristics such as length, elasticity and texture are taken into account, with the latter being the most important. So, with a rough texture and good elasticity, you need to divide the hair into small strands and take large bobbins. Medium texture and elasticity require dividing the hair into medium strands; The bobbins should also be of medium size. If you have a fine texture and poor elasticity, you should divide your hair into smaller strands than with a medium texture; bobbins are taken from small to medium to prevent hair damage. To curl the hair on the back of the head, take the smallest strands and the smallest bobbins. To perm long hair (longer than 15 cm), they are divided into small strands and curled evenly and close to the head. Dividing into small strands promotes uniform wetting.

Perm hair

Many women dream of beautiful curls, but not everyone is blessed with curly hair. One option to achieve the desired effect is perm.

Many of us have probably experienced the disappointment of having a “classic” perm. Damaged hair of an incomprehensible color, sticking out in all directions and one dream - to cut it all off as soon as possible. Now there are opportunities to minimize the adverse effects of chemicals on hair; it is possible to choose a perm not only in external indicators, but also according to the type of your hair.

True, a lot will depend on the hairstylist who will perm your hair. From my own experience, I can say that my most successful perm was the very first one. It was done with soul, but in completely unimaginable conditions, with the most ordinary “Lokon”. I was not able to achieve such a result again, which is a pity.

A true professional will definitely analyze your hair type and select a curl according to the results. For example, a gentle acid perm is suitable for tired hair. Unlike conventional chemicals, acid perms have a pH value between 6 and 7, which almost corresponds to the natural acid protective coating of the skin and hair. This means that acid perms won't strain your hair too much. If you have sensitive skin on your head, a biological perm containing sulfides is suitable for you and is very gentle on the scalp. Conventional chemicals are only suitable for healthy or very fine hair. Its only advantage is that it lasts at least twice as long as any other curling option.

And yet, the choice is yours.

So, what you need to consider when making a choice:

Negative points:

Any hair requires care and attention; a perm will not save you from the hassle of styling and care, rather the opposite. Despite the fact that gentle perm options have now been developed, the hair nevertheless experiences stress and negative impact and require rehabilitation treatment. Permed hair requires careful combing and styling.

A gentle perm lasts less than a classic perm.

Success will largely be determined by the professionalism of the master. He will not only do a high-quality perm, but will also help you decide on the type of perm depending on the structure of your hair, its health, the expected size of the curls and their rigidity. If you are not confident in the master, you risk ruining your hair and mood.

There are a lot of undesirable aspects that can reduce the results to zero. More on this later.

You may have to tint your hair, as it may still lose its original color.

If you live in an area with a hot, dry climate, this can also be bad for your hair. They will require more careful care.

Permanence. If you change your mind, you will have to wait a long time until your hair becomes natural, and perhaps part with a stubborn part of it.

And now about the positive aspects:

If you have a humid climate, and at the same time you love curls, you should choose a perm, because in the rain, in damp weather, the permed curls will only be clearer, which cannot be said about the curls laid with curlers or curling irons.

Permed hair can be styled less frequently.

Hair becomes more manageable.

If you have oily hair, chemicals will dry it out.

Perms add volume to hair.

Permanence. It could be positive quality, if you have made the right choice.

If you have an unbearable desire to do chemistry and this will simply make your soul calmer, do it, taking into account all the necessary information for the right choice.

You should not get a perm if:

• your hair is exhausted, sick and requires restorative treatment.
• your body is weakened by illness or stress.
• you are pregnant or taking hormonal medications that affect hormonal background your body, so to speak, creating the effect of “imaginary pregnancy”.
• you are breastfeeding.
• you are having your period.
• If your blood pressure is high, if it is low, try to raise it by drinking a cup of coffee.
• in the room where perm is performed at less than 24°C in winter and 22°C in summer.
• you are allergic to the drug.
• Have you recently tinted or dyed your hair? After coloring your hair, you need to wait 2-3 weeks for the perm. Spend this time on intensive hair care.
• the day before you treated your hair with a composition containing metal or urzol (for example, “Hair Color Restorer”, etc.)
• you constantly use products containing silicones. If these are shampoos with conditioner, then the silicones contained in it will dissolve in water, just warn your hairdresser to remove any remaining product with an exfoliating shampoo. Read more about silicones below.

"Killers" of perms?

Silicones in combination shampoos

(material is based on the book "500 hairstyles and makeup tips. Advice from professionals")

Products called Two-in-one (two products in one bottle) are becoming increasingly popular. Are they to blame for a failed perm?

Silicones are different

1. Water-soluble silicones form stable foam and are especially used in shampoos. They are not deposited in the hair.

2. Silicone oils increase shine and make hair easier to comb. They are found in mouthwashes medicinal products and in many combination products. These oils do not dissolve in water, but are washed off with shampoo. With frequent use, they accumulate in the hair.

3. High-polymer silicones glue the split ends of the hair. Silicones, especially those that are included in liquids for the care of hair ends, are deposited in the form of a dense film on the hair and are difficult to remove.

Weak perm, dull coloring and hair that hangs limply after every wash - many women face these difficulties. But few know how to deal with this.

Meanwhile, the use of combined products has simplified hair care. Shampoo and conditioner in one bottle is a wonderful discovery. Time is saved, and often this type of hair care is cheaper. It's no surprise that two-in-one products have now captured about 15% of the market share. However, the growing popularity of these products scares many hairdressers. “Perm, coloring and tinting of hair no longer works as well as before. Hairdressers are increasingly complaining about this,” says B. Müller, Chairman of the Board of the Central Union of German Hairdressers. Hairdressers suspect that the culprit of the above-mentioned troubles is the silicone contained in many products.

Silicones are widely used in hair care products and are essentially harmless. In many combination shampoos their share is negligible. Drops of silicone that are deposited on the hair make it softer, shiny and easier to style. However, with constant use of shampoo, more and more droplets of silicone are deposited on the hair, which form a film and close the pores. Further types of chemical treatments, such as tinting or perming, can no longer have the desired effect on the hair. First of all, delicate fine hair becomes heavy and the curl does not hold on it.

H. Daniel from the Union of Hygienic and Detergent Manufacturers, defending the new shampoos from attacks, refers to in-house tests and studies that were carried out in New Zealand and the Scandinavian countries and did not find a deterioration in the quality of perm and toning. But, since the research has only recently begun and the results of longer trials have not yet been received, hairdressers' doubts seem to be not unfounded.

Undoubtedly, certain types of silicones are always deposited on the hair. Silicones are specially introduced into the hair end care liquid to achieve just this effect. Therefore, if you intend to get a perm, you should not often use products containing silicones.<:>

• Combined shampoo should not be used daily, but not more than twice a week. The rest of the time, use regular shampoo.
• You need to buy a combination shampoo according to your hair type and use a small amount for each wash.
• for washing delicate fine hair only in exceptional cases You can use combination shampoos. Hair quickly becomes covered with silicone and becomes limp.
• For hair oversaturated with silicone, the cosmetic industry produces special neutralizers that prevent the deposition of silicone on the hair. These products are convenient for those who do not want to hesitate with perm.
• When asking a hairdresser for a perm, toning or coloring, be sure to tell him about the previous hair care.

About perm

What is a perm?

Perm is common name a process as a result of which the hair becomes voluminous and pliable, the strands curl into curls of varying sizes and rigidity.

What happens to hair during perm?

The hair substance softens under the action of acid (thioglycolic acid), its natural sulfur compounds dissolve. At this stage of curling, the hair takes a new shape with the help of curlers or curlers and is fixed in it.

Which perm is right for your hair?

This entirely depends on their thickness and condition.

It is believed that the thinner the hair, the more demanding it is for perm products, since thin hair itself is soft, weak and sags quickly. Therefore, the curling product must be strong enough to lock fine hair into its new shape. Thick, thin hair is naturally stronger and retains its shape better, so lighter chemicals are enough for them. Classic perm is best for healthy hair. If done correctly, it lasts from three to six months. True, it is not harmless to hair, therefore, in order for it to maintain its shine and healthy appearance, you have to use special rinses and balms.

If you have sensitive scalp, it is better to choose a bioperm, which contains sulfide instead of thioglycolic acid and is gentle and gentle on the hair and scalp. The new product is pleasant to the skin: the foul-smelling and burning ammonia is not included in its composition. Instead, natural urea is used, which causes the hair to swell before curling. This substance is almost odorless and does not pollute environment. But still, no long-term perm can be done without hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent, which is part of the hair bleaching cream. And this operation also tires the hair.

For tired hair, chemicals with an acid base are suitable. Unlike the alkaline composition for classical perm, the acid composition has a pH value of + 6-7, which is approximately equal to the pH value in the anti-acid layer of hair and skin, which naturally facilitates the penetration of acids into their structure. The disadvantage of an acid composition is that it is less stable than an alkaline one. The perm lasts about half as long as a regular perm with a classic composition, about 4-6 weeks. Unfortunately, acid perms are not suitable for all hair types. So, for example, it is useless to try to do an acid perm on so-called strong hair - smooth and so straight that after each attempt to make waves, it returns to its previous state. They simply do not accept the chemical curling fluid. If your waves don't last at all, ask your hairdresser to test your hair with a special device or simply do a test curl on one strand.

And finally, neutral perm is a new product. It has a neutral pH value, is less damaging to the scalp and works equally well on all areas of the hair. There are areas on every person's head where the hair is either too unruly or damaged. Thus, one part of the hair lends itself well to perming, while the other does not. And the consequence of this is uneven curling, often without shine. Neutral perm has a uniform effect on the hair and is suitable for all hair types. It's also ideal for those who want to do their own perms: it's sold as a wave foam with integrated nutrients. A special keratin complex, already during perm, smoothes out damage that appears on the stratum corneum and takes care of the elasticity and stability of the hair.

When making your choice, consult a professional hairdresser. He will help you figure out what is right for you.

TYPES OF PERMS

Curling on curlers

This type of curling creates the effect of naturally curly hair and creates light wavy curls.

For curling curls, the upper hair is divided into “steps”. This gives the hairstyle additional flexibility. The hairdresser separates the appropriately wide strands and winds them into large curling irons. They need to be arranged randomly. The hair strands should be curled in the same direction, but not parallel. This will create a picture of beautifully flowing, naturally curly hair. Then curling agents are applied. It is selected taking into account the structure and condition of your hair.

Spiral perm

Perfect for long hair, but can also be done for hair length up to the earlobe.

The peculiarity of spiral “chemistry” is the shape of the curls. Long hair is twisted in small strands into small spirals. After curling, they curl in rings without twisting with each other. The hairdresser achieves the same effect with a regular perm if he first twists individual strands into strands. It is recommended to dry spiral chemicals at room temperature or with a hairdryer with a diffuse nozzle. It acts as a filter, allowing air to pass through many small holes, without tangling your hair.

Perm "on a pigtail"

Suitable for shoulder length hair and below. The peculiarity of this perm is that strands braided into small tight braids, the ends of which are twisted into bobbins, are treated with a chemical composition. But you can also twist the entire braid. This achieves an interesting effect.

Perm "on a hairpin"

Looks good on shoulder length hair.

The peculiarity of this perm is that strands of hair are wound onto a hairpin made of non-metallic material.

Perm with curling the second partsticks

The peculiarity of this type of perm is that part of the strand is wound onto one bobbin, and then “twisted” the second. The result is curls of varying sizes.

Children's perm

The purpose of performing a “children’s” perm is to avoid compositions on the scalp and hair roots.

This kind of curling is done like this. The head is covered with a plastic cap. Using a regular crochet hook, strands are pulled through the holes in the polyethylene cap made with the same crochet hook. Next, the usual perm is done.

Perm "Twin"

This type of perm is distinguished by the shape of the curl: half of the strand has curls in the form of vertical curls, and half - in the form of horizontal curls.

Root perm

It is used in cases where it is necessary to perm a part of the strand adjacent to the scalp, for example, to create fullness at the roots or to obtain curls at the roots of the hair if the hair, previously permed, has grown back. The length of the strand to be curled is selected as desired.

Advice:

In order to pre-determine the expected curl shape and appearance of the hairstyle using non-traditional types of perm, you can perm by moisturizing the hair strands with plain water with the addition of beer in a 1:1 ratio or with the addition of citric acid (add citric acid to 1/2 cup of water). tip of the knife).

A few hours after perming, the hair should be rinsed with acidified water (a tablespoon table vinegar per liter of water);

On the day of curling, do not comb your hair;

For 2-4 days, do not wash your hair or heat-treat it, for example, using a hair dryer, hot rollers, etc. is not recommended.

Do not use electric tongs;

You can't comb your hair with a brush. A comb or wide-toothed comb is more suitable for this;

Do not overdry your hair, try not to expose it to direct rays of the sun, be sure to rinse your hair after swimming (in salted or chlorinated water);

In order to improve the hair structure, do not use urine therapy, since the curl may soon “develop”;

Use special nourishing shampoos and balms to wash your hair;

It is advisable to conduct a health and restoration course for hair.

Gentle hair washing. Ideal for washing with super-mild shampoo for damaged hair after perm or washing with shampoo and conditioner. Hair breaks less as it becomes more elastic. You need to lather your scalp and hair roots with shampoo. It is enough to clean long hair with the remaining shampoo flowing down the hair.

Recovery at night. The effect of chemicals during curling affects not only the external, but also the internal structure hair. Protein compounds disappear, which give the hair strength and at the same time make the hair elastic. The consequence of this is dry, brittle hair without shine. A special course of treatment in ampoules restores damaged hair within seven days. The ampoules are used as follows: the liquid from the entire ampoule is applied to dry hair in the evening and combed. Overnight, it will be absorbed into the hair and begin to restore damaged connections. In the morning, your hair should be rinsed well.

Course of treatment in between. Instant action, ideal for women who have little time. To do this, just spray your hair with moisturizing liquid. An amazing double effect: nutrients are introduced into dry hair and at the same time the curl is “refreshed” through massage. For hair particularly affected by perms, it is necessary to apply a nutrient aerosol daily.

Regular energy saturation. Regardless of whether your permed hair looks faded or not, you should rinse it well after each wash. Hair masks should be done after every 3 or 4 hair washes. New perms contain lightweight nutrients such as moisturizing panthenol and hair growth-enhancing keratin, collagens and silk proteins. They also give elasticity to the curls.

Soft styling is acceptable. This applies mainly to long hair. Be warned: hot air from a hair dryer is poison. Dry your hair only with warm air using a diffuser attachment, otherwise the hair will become tangled and the curls will be unable to curl. New: drying under a lamp infrared radiation- like in a hairdresser's. It is difficult to imagine a more gentle drying method. If you want to achieve trendy big waves, roll large sections of hair into pre-heated Soft Styler rollers. The advantages of this method: the hair remains dry, the curlers cool within 20 minutes and do not require clips or pins.

Magnificent effective remedy- hot oil. This is the latest innovation: it strengthens the hair without leaving any traces of oil on it. Its secret lies in a new combination of ingredients from keratinates and protein hydrolysates and thermal action. Closed bottles with oily liquid must be heated for 2 minutes. hot water, then uncork and insert into damp hair. Thanks to the heat, the ingredients are evenly distributed on the surface of the head and have a better effect on the hair. Let the oil soak in a little and then wash it off with shampoo. Thanks to this treatment course, hair becomes healthier and more elastic.

Natural oils are the most valuable find for hair.

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Preparatory work

To perform perm hair, you need the following tools and devices:

1) a porcelain or enamel bowl with a volume of at least 50–60 ml, stable enough so that it does not tip over during operation;

2) a polyethylene or any other non-metallic comb with a “tail”;

3) thinning razor for cutting hair (an experienced master can cut hair with a straight razor);

4) a measuring cylinder with a capacity of 50 ml with a division value of 5 ml;

5) wooden or plastic bobbins with elastic bands for fixing a strand of hair in a twisted state;

6) cotton wool and foam sponges measuring 10x10 cm for applying fixative to hair and 3x4 cm for applying the composition;

7) rubber gloves;

8) an insulated cap made of polyethylene or any other waterproof material.

Note: If the hairdresser has a PA-1 apparatus for steaming hair, there is no need to use an insulated cap.

Preparatory work before curling hair is carried out in the following order:

– external examination of the scalp and hair;

– checking the scalp for sensitivity to the chemical composition for curling;

– checking the condition of the hair when wetting it with the preparation;

– preparation of tools and devices for curling.

An external examination of the scalp and hair before perming is necessary to identify various diseases for which perm cannot be done. Contraindications are pronounced irritations on the skin, scratches, cuts, ulcers, etc. If diseases of this kind are detected, you should refuse to perform a perm, and the visitor should be advised to consult a doctor.

When examining your hair, you need to pay attention to its condition. If the hair has previously been heavily bleached or dyed with any other dye, it is necessary to check it for tearing: if the hair is easily torn off when dry, perming should not be done. It is also not recommended to perm hair colored with Restorer or metal-containing dyes.

After an external examination, it is necessary to check the reaction of the client’s skin to irritation (idiosyncrasy) by the product with which the perm will be performed. It is most convenient to do this behind the ear, since this is where the effect of the drug will be most noticeable. Take a piece of cotton wool moistened with the preparation and apply the composition to the skin in the indicated place. After 8-10 minutes, the skin’s reaction to the irritant is already visible. In the absence of irritation (redness), we can assume that this drug is not contraindicated for the client and, therefore, perm can be performed. If pronounced skin irritation occurs, it is necessary to wash off the applied composition with a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide and rinse the skin with water. In this case, hair perm should be abandoned. If the hairdresser has a curling product of a different composition, you also need to check the skin's reaction to irritation and, if negative, perform a curl with this composition.

At the same time as checking the skin for irritation, it is necessary to check the hair's reaction to the curling product. This will help identify contraindications to curling that were not noticed during external examination. You need to take a small strand of hair and moisten it with the curling compound. After 1-2 minutes you need to try it to break. If the hair has retained its strength, then it is suitable for curling. If they have lost it and have a tow-like appearance, they cannot be curled with a composition of this concentration. In this case, it is necessary to dilute the composition with water in a ratio of 1:1 or 1:2 and repeat the test. In this way, you can find the required concentration of the composition or make sure that curling should be abandoned.

When preparing tools and devices for curling hair, the hairdresser must first make sure that everything necessary is available. It is especially important to have a sufficient number of bobbins with elastic bands of various thicknesses, as well as the necessary compositions for curling. You should check the sharpness of the thinning razor blade and, if necessary, replace it with a new one. All tools and devices should be laid out in their places so that the master does not waste time finding them while working.

Washing your hair before perming is a necessary and important operation. The quality of the curl depends on how well it is done. When washing your hair, your hair is cleansed of fat and other contaminants that prevent the composition from penetrating into the deeper layers of the hair. That is why this type of work requires the same attention as any other during perm.

Regardless of how much time has passed since the last time you washed your hair, your hair should be washed before perming.

To wash your hair, you can use various detergents depending on the degree of contamination of your hair. If your hair is very oily, it is better to use liquid toilet soap, which easily removes oil. Shampoos work well on dry and normal hair. It is recommended to comb your hair after washing your hair with a non-metallic comb, since hangnails and sharp edges on metal combs can damage hair that has been softened after washing.

The haircut model is determined by the style of the future hairstyle. A haircut is the foundation of a hairstyle. The shape of the hairstyle also depends on the shape of the haircut. It is advisable to cut hair before perming with a thinning razor - with its help it is easier to obtain different lengths of hair in each strand. Naturally growing hair can be of different lengths due to its constant renewal. This natural ratio in hair length has a greater influence on the duration of the perm. When cutting your hair, you must remember that the best results with perm can be achieved on relatively short hair - up to 15–20 cm. However, you can also curl longer hair.

When thinning your hair, the ends of the strands need to be made thinner so that they fit well in the hairstyle. On the neck and temples, if necessary, you can trim the hair with scissors. In this case, cutting off a thick layer of hair is not recommended. If the haircut is done correctly, there is no need to trim the hair with scissors.

Any haircut before curling should be done in such a way that even without curling, the hair has a complete, well-defined shape.

Curling hair with bobbins

After a haircut, which is done on wet hair, it is not at all necessary to dry it, especially under a dry dryer. When drying hair under the device, the stratum corneum of the hair hardens, as a result of which the curling preparation has difficulty penetrating through the scales of the surface layer. If there is a need to dry your hair, it is better to do it naturally. To speed up this process, you need to continuously comb them with a comb in different directions. Usually 5 minutes is enough to dry your hair naturally.

There is an opinion that you should not curl wet hair due to the fact that in this case the composition is diluted and the curl may turn out weaker. This opinion is erroneous, although in reality such dilution does occur. However, wet hair absorbs the curling preparation much faster, and the required holding time does not increase, and sometimes even decreases. The curl turns out natural, and the hair better retains its original structure, which is a very important factor, considering that the goal of the hairdresser is not only to get a good curl, but also to preserve the hair.

Before winding your hair with bobbins, you need to divide your scalp into sections (strands). The width of the strand should not exceed the length of the bobbin. If a strand of hair turns out to be wider than the bobbin, then when winding it will not be possible to position it strictly perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the bobbin. The latter is very important for getting a good curl. The strand of hair should be positioned and wound around the bobbin in a similar manner to the threads on a spool.

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Usually, the scalp is divided for winding into bobbins as follows: horizontal partings are made on the right and left sides of the head to the back of the head, approximately at the level of the eyebrows, so that the strand of hair on the crown matches the width of the bobbin. This strand of hair must be secured with a clip so that it does not interfere with subsequent operations. Then, from the horizontal partings down to the ear on both the left and right sides of the head, a vertical parting should be made, observing the established width of the strands. These areas must also be secured with clamps. Then you need to divide the hair remaining on the back of the head into three strands. To do this, you need to continue the horizontal partings made earlier at the level of the eyebrows from the back of the head down to the neck.

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Thus, the width of the middle strand of hair will correspond to the width of the strands on the crown of the head. After this, they move on to processing the side strands of hair behind the ears. Typically, on a medium-sized head, these strands of width satisfy the requirements. If the width of the strand exceeds the width of the bobbin, you can, for example, move the vertical parting a little back, behind the ear, and then, since part of the hair at the temple has become wider, separate a small strand from the side of the face for curling. This strand of hair is wound onto a bobbin in a vertical position.

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You should wear thin rubber gloves when curling your hair to protect your hands from contact with the skin. The operation begins with the middle strand of the occipital part of the head. It is not recommended to wet the entire strand with the composition. You need to separate a small part of it - 3-4 cm - and moisten it with the composition using a foam sponge about 3/4 of its length, starting from the ends. It is not recommended to wet the hair at the very roots to avoid the harmful effects of the chemical composition on the scalp. Having moistened a strand of hair in this way, separate a small part of it - about 1 cm (depending on the thickness and length of the hair) - and wind it onto a bobbin as shown in the figure.

When winding onto bobbins, you need to carefully twist the ends of the hair, otherwise the broken ends will stand out from the total mass. The combed strand is placed on the palm of the left hand, then the bobbin, which is in the right hand, is brought under the strand, and at this time the ends of the hair of the prepared strand are grabbed with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. In this case, the bobbin is held by the end with the thumb and forefinger right hand– this position is the starting point.

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Then the ends of the hair are placed on the bobbin so that they protrude on one side by 1–2 cm. Using the index finger of the left hand, bend the ends of the hair inward in the direction of twisting, and with the middle finger of the same hand press them to the bobbin. Pressing your hair with your right hand, you should immediately slightly pull the strand perpendicular to the surface of your head.

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After this comes the most crucial moment in winding: with the index finger of your left hand, with a quick sliding movement along the plane of the bobbin in the direction of winding, you need to bend the ends of the hair under the strand, and with the middle finger of the same hand, following the index finger, repeat its movement, as if securing it and pressing the hair to bobbin At the moment when the index finger of the left hand begins a sliding movement along the plane of the bobbin, bending the ends of the hair under the strand, the index and thumb With your right hand, slightly loosening the tension of the strand, you should quickly rotate the bobbin in the desired direction. The correct grip of the ends of the hair on the bobbins depends on the synchronization of the work of the three fingers of the left and two fingers of the right hand.

To acquire the skill in performing these techniques, from the very beginning of mastering perm, you need to try to accurately follow the proposed recommendations. The fingers of the right hand should not hold the bobbin tightly - they seem to support it, so that if the ends of the strand are broken, the fingers, encountering additional resistance, will feel it. The process of twisting the first 1.5–2 turns must be carried out easy fast movement.

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Then you need to release the fingers of your left hand and move them to the left end of the bobbin, and the fingers of your right hand, slightly pulling the strand captured on the bobbin, take their original position for the final twisting of the bobbin. Using the same techniques, they wind the rest of the hair around the bobbins.

The thickness of the winding bobbins should be changed depending on the thickness and length of the hair. On the neck and other parts of the head where the hair is thin or short, thinner bobbins are used.

After the hair on the back of the head is twisted into bobbins, they are moistened with a curling preparation.

The next stage is curling the hair on the temporal areas, and then on the parietal areas. It is better to curl the hair on the crown of the head towards the forehead. When twisting each strand, you must ensure that the hair is pulled strictly perpendicular to the surface of the head in the treated area. Otherwise, the hair curls unevenly, that is, the lower part of the strands curls closer to the root and its curl turns out to be steeper, and upper part– further from the root and its curl is weaker.

Compliance with the requirements when curling hair on all parts of the head (uniform distribution of hair over the bobbin, tension of the strands) ensures a good curl.

Having twisted all your hair into bobbins, you need to moisten it with a curling preparation and cover it with an insulating cap. The exposure time of the curling preparation on the hair in each specific case must be set depending on the property of the hair, the preparation used or at the request of the client.

When using a PA-1 steam hair treatment device, the exposure time is reduced by one third. To determine the required exposure time, you need to untwist 3-4 curls on different parts of the head and check the elasticity of the curl. Special attention You should pay attention to the curls at the bottom of the head, behind the ears - they usually curl somewhat more difficult than the rest of the hair. If the curl is elastic, you can proceed with subsequent operations in accordance with the technological regime for processing hair during perm. The exposure time of the solution on the hair depends on the type of hair: for soft hair – 18–25 minutes; for normal – 16–18 minutes; for hard ones – 12–15 minutes.

Rinse with water

To ensure that there is no curling agent left on the hair, rinse the head with a copious stream of warm running water for 4–5 minutes. Considering that the hair is curled, the procedure should be performed very carefully.

Curl fixation

After rinsing your hair, you can begin fixing the curls in a twisted position. For this purpose, the master prepares a special composition - a fixer, which is hydrogen peroxide of 3-5% concentration. You need to add a certain amount of soap shampoo to the fixer for viscosity. The fixer is prepared immediately before applying it to the hair and used immediately after preparation.

Fixer composition:

1. For short hair:

– 2 tablets of 6% hydroperite,

– 20 ml warm water,

– 15 ml of shampoo.

2. For long hair:

– 4 6% hydroperite tablets,

– 40 ml warm water,

– 15 ml of shampoo.

In the absence of hydroperite, perhydrol of 30% concentration is used.

Pour into a non-metallic container:

– 40 ml warm water,

– 15 ml of shampoo,

– 8-10 ml of perhydrol 30% concentration.

The resulting solution should contain about 5% hydrogen peroxide.

Having again tied a towel twisted into a rope on the head to protect the face from the fixer, the latter is foamed with a foam sponge and each bobbin is carefully treated with it, generously moistening it with the solution. It is very important to evenly distribute the fixing composition between the bobbins. Since the component of the fixer - oxygen gas - evaporates very quickly, the fixing solution must be constantly foamed and moistened with it.

After applying approximately 1/3 of the entire solution and leaving the fixer on the hair for 5-10 minutes, carefully (so as not to unnecessarily stretch the curls) remove all the bobbins. Finally, apply the remaining fixer to the hair for another 5 minutes.

After this, rinse the hair thoroughly with water without shampoo.

Hairdressing
L.G. Gutyrya