How to take a panoramic photo. How to make a street panorama on an Android smartphone

How to take a panoramic photo. Step-by-step instruction! Simple, easy, fast. March 20th, 2012

Every amateur photographer has probably ever wondered: how to make one panoramic photo from several photos? What is needed for this? Is it difficult? Read step by step instructions, with which you can do panoramic photo (panorama) without a tripod and without much difficulty.

Today I will tell you how to do this easily and simply.

Making a panorama is not easy, but very simple! Step-by-step instruction. Modern programs allows you to make a panorama from pictures taken with any camera, as long as the frames overlap each other. To make sure you have no doubt about your camera's ability to take photos suitable for making a panorama, I took the photos for this tutorial with a phone camera.

I invite you to repeat all the steps in this instruction with me, using these photographs that you can

download from the link in the archive from my Dropbox,

If you use your own photographs, when shooting, make sure that there is at least a quarter of the total space between the photographs, and it is better that the horizon does not “run away” between frames. In fact, less overlap may be enough, but the best, as you know, is the enemy of the good, so it’s better not to overdo it with overlap.

To assemble the panorama we will use Hugin latest version. At the time of writing this tutorial, the latest version was 2011.4.0. Hugin is available in versions for Windows, Mac OS X and Linux. All instructions below are suitable for the version for any OS.

Installing Hugin is easy; just download the installation package and follow the installer's instructions.

When opened, Hugin automatically creates new project. Select photos for the panorama by clicking the corresponding button.

You can add all your photos at once in one fell swoop.

Hugin itself determines the properties of the lens.

Click "Merge..." and go have some tea, especially if you don't have the most modern computer or have a lot of high-resolution photos.

As soon as Hugin combines the images, a panorama preview window will open.

For best viewing result, disable the grid by unchecking the checkbox at the top of the window.

The panorama preview has several tabs with settings, some of which are not interesting to us at all due to the fact that Hugin has already done the main work of combining images, and the other part of the tabs may still be useful to us.

On the "Projection" tab we have the ability to change the way images are projected and some other settings. For example, you can see what a panorama would look like if it were shot with a fisheye lens:

However, today our goal is not special effects, but a finished panorama, so we will choose the equidistant projection mode.

On the “Move on the projection plane” tab, we have the opportunity to align the horizon on all frames, if suddenly it does not align automatically. We can also bend the horizon for greater effect:

To return the horizon to its original, even state, click the “Align” button:

On the next “Crop” tab, click the “Auto-crop” button to automatically crop the black edges of the panorama.

If you are not satisfied with the result of automatic cropping, you can pull inner edge frames and frame as we need, for example, if we plan to finish painting the sky and the black fields do not bother us.

Close the preview window and click "Create panorama..."

And then he will ask you to come up with a file name for the finished panorama:

We stock up on patience, tea, coffee, jam, cookies, etc., for about 5 minutes :-)

Find the resulting panorama file:

We watch with any suitable viewer.

For publication, it is best to convert the panorama to JPEG. This can be done in any graphic editor or popular viewers.

The result increases to 8209 x 1693.

We found out what opportunities panoramic photography gives a photographer and what tools will be needed for it. Today we will touch on the practical aspects of the issue. How to shoot individual frames of a panorama so that when gluing it together everything comes together without problems?

Taking pictures to stitch together a panorama

So, we are at the shooting location and want to take a panoramic photo.

Thinking through the frame. Where to begin? As always, from an artistic concept. Imagine the composition of the future photo: select the subject, foreground, etc. The difficulty of panoramic shooting is that we cannot see the final frame directly through the viewfinder or camera screen: only its fragments will fit there, from which the panorama will be assembled. Therefore, for such shooting it is very important to develop a special skill - to see the finished frame without the help of a camera. Mark for yourself the boundaries of the future photo: what you want to include in it and what you will leave outside its boundaries. For example, like this: “I will shoot a panoramic frame starting from that tree on the left to that stone on the right so that this picturesque house is located in the final image according to the rule of thirds.” Such a mental plan will help you move forward effectively, rather than just clicking the camera in all directions, trying to shoot a frame with the maximum possible viewing angle. Lack of thoughtful composition is the main problem with most panoramas taken by beginners, so think carefully about your future shot before you start shooting!

Tripod. In order for the captured frames to come together into a single panorama, it is important to take them strictly from one point. A tripod will help with this. In addition, this device will allow you to shoot at long shutter speeds. This is especially important if you have a foreground close to the camera (which is almost always the case).

What does a panorama consist of? Of course, a panoramic shot consists of several separate frames! But how to take these photographs correctly so that they later come together well into a single image? To do this, you need to shoot “overlapping”, turning the camera on a tripod. Each subsequent frame must capture a certain part previous photo. Naturally, the less they overlap one another, the fewer frames will be required for the final panorama, but at the same time, the higher the chance of making mistakes when shooting. Panorama shot on a quick fix, may not form a single image. Therefore, in order for the frames to reliably converge, the overlap of one frame on another must be at least one third. And the larger it is, the better. How many frames should there be in a panorama? As much as you like - it's up to you. Don't rely on the number of frames, but on the subject being shot: just take the required number of photographs with the required overlay.

Taking images with insufficient overlap is the main reason why novice photographers fail to stitch together a final panorama. So take this moment Special attention.

The attentive reader may notice that in most examples, panoramas are assembled from vertical frames. There is nothing fundamental here: you can stitch together both vertical and horizontal photographs. But working with vertical frames seems more convenient to me. Especially if we are talking about a single-row panorama: in this case we can get a more detailed image (since the narrow side of the panoramic frame becomes the wide side of the captured frames). In addition, a vertical frame allows you to more accurately assess the overall exposure of the subject (we have enough sky and enough land in the frame). Also, when shooting vertical frames, it is much more convenient to use gradient filters.

"Multi-story" panoramas. Often, in order to obtain a sufficient viewing angle when shooting, stitching several vertical frames in a row is not enough. Gluing multi-row panoramas allows you to seriously expand the capabilities of a panorama. This method is not much different from the one described above. It’s just that during the shooting process we take not one row of frames, but several. This way you can achieve any viewing angle. The advantage of a multi-row panorama is the ability to significantly increase the viewing angle when shooting, as well as the resolution of the finished image. But there are also disadvantages. For example, when shooting a multi-row panorama, it is much more difficult to use gradient filters.

Multi-row panoramas are somewhat more difficult to shoot and stitch together. Therefore, I advise you to first practice with single-row panoramas and only then move on to more complex, “multi-story” options.

An example of a multi-row panorama.

Exposure options, bracketing and HDR. Exposure parameters for panoramic shooting are adjusted in the same way as when working with single frames. Only one thing is important: all panorama frames must be taken with the same exposure parameters. Therefore, the panorama must be shot in manual mode (M), with the automatic ISO detection function disabled. Otherwise, the final pictures will turn out different in brightness, and you will be tortured to make them look the same.

Please note that your panoramic scene will most likely have a large difference in brightness: it may happen that in some panorama frames there will be only earth and shadow, while in others there will be a colorful sky with the dawn sun. But the exposure parameters, as we have already said, should be the same everywhere. Therefore, it is important to adjust the exposure so that the details in both the lightest and darkest areas of the panorama are well developed. Modern devices Nikon D810, Nikon D750, Nikon D610, and even simpler models have the widest dynamic range. This means that with proper exposure, you can often extract details from both dark and light areas from one frame. However, this requires expertly fine-tuning the exposure, which is not always possible in the field. To insure yourself against mistakes, I recommend shooting each frame of a future panorama with exposure bracketing (when the camera takes a series of pictures with a certain exposure step). The result will be a series of frames with different brightnesses. If the circumstances are right, you can easily extract all the details from the most successfully exposed frame of such a series. Otherwise, you can stitch together an HDR image from this series, and then assemble a panorama from the prepared HDR images. In addition, gradient filters will help to properly expose the frame: they can darken the bright sky without affecting the rest of the frame.

RAW or JPEG? Since panoramic shooting involves computer image processing, of course, it will be more convenient to work with the RAW format. However, if you just want to practice panoramic photography, you can work with JPEG, but then it is recommended to enable lens distortion and vignetting correction in the camera menu so that later your images match one another. Note that such correction through the device menu will be available only when using native Nikon optics.

By the way, when working with the RAW format, you can also correct optical distortions in one click. This mechanism is implemented, for example, in the RAW converter for Nikon Capture NX-D cameras.

White balance. If you suddenly decide to shoot a panorama not in RAW format, but in JPEG, make sure that the white balance in all photos is the same. I definitely recommend shooting panoramic shots in RAW: this format is much more flexible in processing, and it will allow you to adjust the white balance after shooting, when working with images on a computer.

Focusing. As with frame exposure, focusing when shooting panoramas can be done in the same way as when working with single shots. And in the same way, the focus should be the same on all frames of the panorama. If the focus “walks”, most likely it will not be possible to glue them together. Therefore, having focused once, immediately before shooting a specific panorama, it is better to turn off autofocus altogether. And be careful not to accidentally move the lens focusing ring. If the focus is lost, it is better to reshoot everything from the very beginning. When shooting a landscape panorama, it is convenient to focus at the hyperfocal distance. If you want to take a panoramic portrait with a shallow depth of field, then, of course, the focus should always remain on your subject.

Difficulties with panoramic photography

Panoramic photography is a very powerful technique in a photographer’s arsenal, but there are scenes that are very difficult to shoot as a panorama. Remember: if there is a lot of movement in your frame, especially in the foreground (for example, if you are filming a forest and a strong wind is blowing, swaying the branches of the trees), then it is better to shoot such a scene without panoramic stitching, in one frame. Otherwise, it will be difficult to bring together branches that appear in different positions in different frames. The same applies to scenes with dynamic water, surf, people and animals. If you shoot waves, they will look completely different in different frames and it will be extremely difficult to stitch them together. There are exceptions to this rule. For example, frames with mirror-like water surface can be easily stitched together. Another exception is water that moves evenly, without changes. If in the sea surf the oncoming waves vary slightly in their strength and height, then the flow in a mountain river moves absolutely stably, without sharp changes in its movement. This allows you to take footage from mountain rivers and waterfalls into gluing, without fear of any problems.

A simple solution to the motion problem is to place the moving object within one panorama frame so that it does not fit entirely within it. We can take his image from this frame and avoid the problems described.

In addition, you should not shoot panoramas using polarizing and neutral gray filters with variable density. Such filters on wide-angle optics can result in uneven darkening of the frame: as a result, in the final panorama you can get, for example, a spotted sky.

Parallax and the fight against it

Before plunging into the theoretical jungle, I’ll say: you can start shooting panoramas without all the devices described below! They are not always needed; in most cases, all you need is a camera, a tripod and your inspiration! Modern panorama stitching programs, in most cases, perfectly “digest” parallax frames and produce decent results. Also, minor flaws in the gluing can be corrected by retouching the photos in a graphics editor.

Parallax is a change in the apparent position of an object relative to a distant background depending on the position of the observer. This effect can play a very cruel joke on the photographer. If the scene includes a close foreground, its details in different frames may change their position relative to objects in the background. All this threatens that the final panorama will be assembled with errors or will not be assembled at all.

Gluing errors caused by parallax

How to be? There is a common stereotype that parallax can only be combated with the help of special panoramic tripod heads. However, such heads are difficult to use, bulky, and expensive. Yes, they will help get rid of parallax, but using them in the field poses a huge number of difficulties. At the same time, they are really needed only in very difficult cases: for example, when creating 360-degree spherical panoramas.

Greetings to you readers of the site website. In today's article we will tell you about shooting panoramas and how to make a spherical panorama for later viewing in 3D using Flash. You can see an example of such a panorama below.

Theoretical part

Panorama is a wide-format photo made from two or more frames stitched together to capture a larger viewing angle than your lens can allow.

Spherical panorama- this is a panorama made from photographs that, when stitched together, cover all 360 degrees horizontally and 180 degrees vertically, including the surface under and above the photographer. Such a panorama is projected onto the inner surface of the sphere through a special program and when viewing it, the viewer seems to be inside the sphere and can view the panorama by rotating it in any direction. You can see a similar example in Google service Street View, which allows you to view city streets. Several such spherical panoramas can be combined into one virtual tour, but this will be discussed in a separate article.

A spherical 3D panorama can be made with any camera that has manual settings. It can also be done without the help of a tripod and on a regular smartphone, but alas, there will be many inconsistencies and errors in such panoramas. Simply put, you are unlikely to be able to achieve a normal spherical panorama taken handheld. By the way, it’s no secret that you can now make a spherical panorama from an Android smartphone with Kit-Kat 4.4 firmware using the Google camera application.

A spherical panorama has one feature - it is not very suitable for viewing on a straight plane. There are several types of projection of a spherical panorama: equidistant projection, cubic and projection in polar coordinates.

Equidistant panorama projection is most often used to create spherical panoramas and mini-planets. But without transformation it is the most difficult to perceive. Are we literally cutting a spherical panorama into planes and laying them out? At the same time, I stretch the top and bottom of the photo to fit the width of the panorama.

The cubic projection is the most convenient projection for retouching and processing, since it does not have the distortions inherent in the previous projection. However, I prefer to process photos before gluing them together.

There are also other projections, one of which is a projection in polar coordinates or, more simply, a “Mini-planet”. In the center of such a projection is the nadir and at the edges is the zenith. You get the impression that you are high above the shooting location. You can read about it in a separate lesson.

Stages of creating a spherical panorama

So, after we have sorted out the types of panoramas and what they eat with what, we can move on to the very stages of creating 3D panoramas.

Photography. Photographs are taken of the area from which you want to make a spherical 3D panorama.
Panorama stitching. Through a special program PTGui, all frames are stitched into one panorama for further processing and conversion
Converting a panorama to Flash format. Using the Pano2VR program, we convert the finished equidistant panorama projection into Flash format for subsequent viewing in 3D mode.

Panorama shooting equipment

Oddly enough, the main equipment is a camera. This can be either a SLR camera or an advanced digital point-and-shoot camera with manual shooting settings. However, using a DSLR camera paired with a wide-angle lens will make your work easier, unlike shooting a panorama with a regular digital camera.

The lens must be used with a short focal length. Wide-angle lenses with a minimum focal length of 10-20mm are suitable for shooting. However, the more focal length lens, the more frames you will have to take.

For example, having reflex camera with a crop sensor and a standard 18-55mm kit lens, you have to take 3 rows of 15 photos each, resulting in a total of 47 frames, while with a fisheye lens you only need to take 4-8 pictures , which will take significantly less time to take and stitch together photos.

Now let's move on to the most interesting part - the tripod. To shoot spherical panoramas, ideally you will need a tripod with a panoramic head, but if you don’t have one, you can use a regular tripod with a ball head. You ask " What's the difference?". And the fact is that when using a panoramic head, the camera will rotate in such a way that the parallax between frames will be minimal or absent altogether, and the panorama will be stitched together without any problems. With a ball head on a tripod, there will be difficulties in stitching a panorama, especially a shot in a tight space, since the parallax will be very noticeable and interfere with the gluing of frames. But you will read more about the features of parallax and the nodal point of the lens in a separate article. Also, the tripod itself should be strong and stable and preferably have a height of 150 cm or higher.

Preparing and shooting a panorama

Now let's move on to shooting a panorama. Let's consider all the points that need to be given special attention. First of all, choose a picturesque place and set up a tripod with a camera where you want to get a 360-degree view.

You need to start shooting a panorama from the bottom up. That is, you first take a shot of the ground or floor (Nadir) directly below the tripod. Then remove the bottom row, then middle row, top row and finally we shoot the sky or the ceiling above us (Zenith).

You need to shoot in such a way that each subsequent frame overlaps the previous one by 30% - this is necessary so that when gluing photos into a panorama, the program can put control points on the pictures. If you are shooting a large area without any details, for example a wall or blue sky, then you should overlap the frames by 50%. The most difficult thing is to shoot a panorama with a large area of cloudless sky, so try to shoot in cloudy weather so that the program has something to “grab” in the sky when stitching the panorama together. You should get something similar to what is shown in the picture below.

As I wrote above, the number of rows of photographs will depend on your lens focal length. In my example, I used a lens with a focal length of 17mm paired with a cropped DSLR. So on a full-frame DSLR paired with a 10mm lens, you will get several times fewer frames.

Camera settings

1. First of all, you need to set the minimum focal length on the lens so that the camera's viewing angle is maximum.

2. Next, set the lens focus to manual mode and focus on medium shot your panorama. This is necessary so that the focus does not change with each frame change. In my case, I focused on the Ferris Wheel, since it is key figure in our spherical panorama.

3. To ensure that everything in the frame is sharp, you need to set the aperture value in the region of f/7 - f/11. It is strictly not recommended to shoot a panorama at the maximum open aperture, since then the depth of field will be reduced to a minimum and half of the panorama will be out of focus.

4. Set the ISO sensitivity value depending on the lighting and the set aperture.

5. You adjust the shutter speed according to the illumination of the frame, but so that there are no overexposures or too dark areas. In extreme cases, shadows can be drawn out in the editor, but overexposure is more difficult to deal with.

6. Shoot in RAW mode or - this will give you the opportunity to adjust white balance, exposure, draw out shadows, add sharpness and remove noise in RAW files.

Shooting a panorama

And now that you have everything installed and configured, you can start shooting.

Consistently take one frame after another, remembering that the next frame should overlap the previous one by 30%.

If the lighting changes suddenly during shooting, adjust the exposure by changing the shutter speed.

Don't forget that when shooting a panorama, people or cars may get into the frame. Because when assembling a panorama, you may find people with half a body, or a person who will be cloned as a result of getting into the frame several times. Therefore, when shooting, stick to one simple rule- if the object in the frame is moving in one direction, then you need to shoot in opposite direction. That is, if a person walks past you from left to right, then you need to turn your camera from right to left to prevent this person from getting into your panorama several times.

By the way, the most difficult thing in shooting a spherical panorama is to shoot the floor underneath you (Nadir). To do this, you need to remove the camera from the tripod, holding it at the same point where it was on the tripod, extend it with your straight arm and shoot the frame underneath you. Make sure your legs are not included in the frame. This can be done as shown in the picture below.

Taking pictures of the sky above you (Zenith) is quite simple; you can simply turn the camera on a tripod up and take a picture, or take a picture handheld. There shouldn't be any difficulties with this.

This completes the panorama shooting, now the next step is " " and " ". Do you have any questions? Ask them in the comments!

Every amateur photographer has probably ever wondered: how to make one panoramic photo from several photos? What is needed for this? Is it difficult? Read the step-by-step instructions so you can do it panoramic photo (panorama) without a tripod and without much difficulty.

Today I will tell you how to do this easily and simply.

Making a panorama is not easy, but very simple! Step-by-step instruction. Modern programs allow you to make a panorama from pictures taken with any camera, as long as the frames overlap each other. To make sure you have no doubt about your camera's ability to take photos suitable for making a panorama, I took the photos for this tutorial with a phone camera.

I invite you to repeat all the steps in this instruction with me, using these photographs that you can

download from the link in the archive from my Dropbox,

To assemble the panorama we will use the latest version of Hugin. At the time of writing this tutorial, the latest version was 2011.4.0. Hugin is available in versions for Windows, Mac OS X and Linux. All instructions below are suitable for the version for any OS.

Installing Hugin is easy; just download the installation package and follow the installer's instructions.

When opened, Hugin automatically creates a new project. Select photos for the panorama by clicking the corresponding button.

You can add all your photos at once in one fell swoop.

Hugin itself determines the properties of the lens.

Click "Merge..." and go have some tea, especially if you don't have the most modern computer or have a lot of high-resolution photos.

As soon as Hugin combines the images, a panorama preview window will open.

To better view the result, turn off the grid by unchecking the checkbox at the top of the window.

However, today our goal is not special effects, but a finished panorama, so we will choose the equidistant projection mode.

To return the horizon to its original, even state, click the “Align” button:

On the next “Crop” tab, click the “Auto-crop” button to automatically crop the black edges of the panorama.

If you are not satisfied with the result of automatic cropping, you can pull the inner edge of the frame and crop it as we need it, for example, if we plan to complete the sky and the black fields do not bother us.

Close the preview window and click "Create panorama..."

And then he will ask you to come up with a file name for the finished panorama:

We stock up on patience, tea, coffee, jam, cookies, etc., for about 5 minutes :-)

Find the resulting panorama file:

We watch with any suitable viewer.

For publication, it is best to convert the panorama to JPEG. This can be done in any graphic editor or popular viewers.

The result increases to 8209 x 1693.

Typically, panoramic photography refers to a frame with a large viewing angle. A 3D image, in turn, must be projected onto a cube or sphere, providing the opportunity to view all its details with a shift in the viewing point.

Even ordinary cameras have a mode, but equipment manufacturers are for last years This concept has been expanded somewhat. It is not necessary to use special settings to create a spherical panorama. You can take several successful shots, and then “sew” them into a single composition. The method of scanning matrix pixels when rotating the camera is also widely used.

Creating spherical panoramas various methods gives different results. In this article, we'll look at how you can create 3D images and discuss the best programs to use for this.

A spherical panorama is one that is intended to be displayed on a computer using special software.

It is based on an image in a cubic or spherical projection, created from a huge number of individual pictures. Characteristic Frames of this type have a huge coverage angle, which makes it possible to capture the entire environment.

Virtual tours and 3D panoramas

It’s very easy to get a 3D panorama; just apply a cubic or spherical projection to a cube or sphere, respectively.

Several composite panoramas turn into a virtual tour. Surely you have already seen something similar on websites educational institutions or libraries. Virtual tour- This is an online excursion, in which movement occurs by clicking on transition points. They are the ones who move the user to the next panorama.

Step-by-step creation of a spherical panorama

Creating a classic 3D panorama occurs in several stages:

the area from which you plan to create a spherical panorama.
Stitching frames. This procedure involves combining all photos in the PTGui program for further processing.
Converting a panorama to Flash format. Converting the finished projection into the required format for viewing in 3D mode.

Preparing for shooting

A spherical panorama is an image that requires some skill and preparation. Before we begin the process of creating it, let’s consider the nuances that deserve special attention.

First you need to select interesting place for shooting and place a tripod at the central point of the composition. The basis is a photo of the ground. Next, the bottom, middle, and top rows are shot, and the composition ends with shooting the sky. Remember that all subsequent frames should overlap the previous ones by a third - this will facilitate the panorama stitching stage.

Camera settings

First of all, you need to make adjustments on the lens. It should be minimal, and the viewing angle of the device should be maximum.

It is best to set the focusing of the camera lens to manual mode and concentrate it on the middle ground of the panorama. This will prevent you from changing focus with each subsequent frame.

For the desired image sharpness, the aperture value should be in the range of f/7 - f/11. You should not take pictures at its maximum value, as it will decrease to a minimum and many elements will fall out of focus.

Photosensitivity parameters should be selected based on the set aperture and the illumination of the location.

The shutter speed is also selected according to the illumination of the composition. Make sure there are no overexposures or too dark areas in the photographs.

For shooting, select RAW mode. This will allow you to correct the exposure, color balance, remove noise and add sharpness at the end of the work.

Shooting a panorama

After installing the equipment and setting it up, you can proceed directly to shooting. A spherical 3D panorama is a composition that requires several consecutive frames that partially replace each other. When changing lighting during work, you will have to adjust the shutter speed.

The most difficult part of shooting a spherical panorama is the surfaces under the tripod. To do this, you will have to pick up the camera, holding it at the same point, extend your arm up and take a frame below you. Be sure to watch your legs - they should not be in the picture.

To capture the sky, the camera must be tilted upward on a tripod, or a frame must be taken using the same technology as when photographing the ground.

After successfully completing all these steps, all you have to do is combine the photos and convert them into the desired 3D product.

How to make a spherical panorama on Android

Let's step back a little from classical concept spherical panorama and move on to studying the technology that every owner of a device with operating system Android. And the Google Camera program will help you do this, and more specifically, the Photo Sphere mode in it.

The spherical panorama must be of high quality. To do this, you need to take a stable position and hold the tablet or phone at face level. The lens should be centered on the blue dot that appears on the screen.

When shooting a spherical panorama, you need to follow the point of blue color, carefully turning along with the device. An audio alert will tell you when to make your next turn. Clicking on the green check mark after completing the circle will automatically start processing the captured frames.

Creating 3D panoramas on iOS devices

You already know how to create a three-dimensional image on Android, and now owners of iOS devices will learn how to create a spherical panorama.

In this case it is worth using Google app Street View, which is identical to the Google Camera program. At the end of the circle you need to press the "Stop" button. The result can be viewed by opening the standard Apple Photos gallery.

View and share a panoramic image

You can take a new photosphere immediately after processing the previous composition, but if you want to view the panorama you just created, swipe from right to left on the screen.

Useful tips to help make your photography more successful

The photo will look much more advantageous if the surrounding picture is not too colorful and contrasting. Make sure that cars and people do not get into the camera lens, because the mark they leave on the picture will ruin the entire composition.

But this does not mean at all that a spherical panorama cannot contain third-party objects. For example, a person can become part of a composition. In order for him to fit into it well, you just need to ask him not to move for a while. But, on the other hand, if the person in the frame moves in the same direction as you, it will create a kind of magical effect.

Shooting spherical panoramas is creative process, to which you need to put a little effort and imagination. Unfinished photospheres, duplicated people, interesting compositions - that's all that can be created with my own hands using a camera.