Where does the Tunguska River flow? Lower Tunguska (river)

Document No. 150 (photocopy of the general notebook)

Diary interviews with eyewitnesses of the fall Tunguska meteorite along the N. Tunguska River in July 1965. group: Pape V. E., Vronsky B. I., Boyarkina A. P., Sapozhnikova L., Shifrin V., Tsvetkov V., Chernikov V.

Group Diary

Surveys of eyewitnesses on the river. Lower Tunguska,

July 1965

Expedition composition:

Pape V. E. - director

Vronsky B.I.

Boyarkina A.P.

Sapozhnikova L.

Shifrin V.

Tsvetkov V.

Chernikov V.

The diary was written in turn by all members of the expedition.

Per astera ad astra!

...We arrived in Chechuysk around 5 pm. The cars of the regional consumer union are moving in the morning. They called the chief of Irkutsk in Podvoloshino. film crew, asked to help with the vehicle of the SOAN expedition. He promised to send it. In the meantime, we are doing the first survey tests.

Two old men, very talkative, but the problem is almost nothing. But there is a lot of information about how gypsies were killed by lightning, about collectivization, etc. ...

...By lunchtime we are in Podvoloshino. A village of two hundred yards. Lower Tunguska is shallow and narrow - about twenty meters. They wade. The village is on the right side, the forest is on the left. We go to the left. The search for shitik is successful. The forester's father finished making shitik for himself. All that remains is to caulk and tar - this is a matter of several hours. agreed to purchase. By the time the team arrives, we will have time to finish everything. The first polls are successful. Every old man is an extraordinary person, old people are well-read, they write their own life stories, they remember everything and tell it with pleasure. Old women, as a rule, refer to old men. We ourselves, they say, are illiterate, dark, and don’t remember anything.

No one has conducted surveys here before - this is all the more interesting. The phenomenon is described very similarly to well-known survey works...

... Exercise with the peas left over from the morning allowed me to reach Gazhenka by six o'clock.

Two people were interviewed. We apologized to them for a long time for disturbing them and scraped aside...

... We arrived at about 12 o'clock to the village of Nepa. The first people who greeted us joyfully rushed towards us... joyfully wagging their tails. “Pshitik,” guarded by Volodya, remained at the pier. The rest of the group, led by the captain (Apollo in a cotton tunic, short storm trousers and ski boots on bare feet) went for surveys. Scaring the residents, they walked around in a horde for some time, then, stocking up with fighting guides, they carried out a voyage in two groups, with varying degrees of success, extracting information...

...So many dead villages along the Tunguska! On high slopes, in picturesque hollows near the limestone mountains, there are empty huts. No children, no dogs, no boats on the shore. Dark, empty window sockets in rickety huts.

Abandoned human habitation always makes a grave impression on me. I can’t watch when old houses are being destroyed in Moscow: scraps of helplessly hanging wallpaper and bricks on a heavy cast-iron ball tap, like blood. And here are entire abandoned villages: Danilovo, Martynovo, Potemino...

... We reached Verkhne-Kalinina at a good pace and conducted a survey. Old people are very different: some tell willingly and a lot, others are frightened, others say that it is impossible to remember anything at all since then, and if anyone tells anything, then it’s all lies. Some of the eyewitnesses last year died, and this once again confirms the timeliness of our route. Soon there will be no people left in these places who remember the Tunguska meteorite...”

...After a three-hour swim, Preobrazhenka appeared on the left bank - a large village stretched along the river bank, with one single street. ...

We all went to the building supreme power village - village council. There was an emergency meeting going on. Chairman of the village council comrade. Chuvashev, an elderly, thin, black-haired man as carefully shaven as the Captain, interrupted the meeting and politely inquired how he could be of assistance. The captain cheerfully and clearly, almost military-style, illuminated the situation. Joyful surprise was reflected on the faces of those around. The topic of the meeting was completely forgotten. They started talking about the Tunguska meteorite, about the letter sent by Chuvashev in response to Boyarkina’s letter, etc., etc. Chuvashev promised all possible support in all our endeavors. The captain said that he was interested in old men and women of advanced age, mainly living ones. At the same time, he presented his “credentials” - a document from the Siberian branch of KMET with signatures and a seal. When you see a piece of paper open face The chairman of the village council had a closed, wary expression. He looked at us all doubtfully. “Why are they presenting documents?” it was written on his face, “Aren’t they swindlers? An honest person will not present documents... And, again, they are interested in living and dead old women.” Chichikov remembered, and the chairman slowly began to read the piece of paper, looking at every letter, especially in the signatures and seal. Unable to overcome his doubts, he handed the document to the secretary of the party organization. This was still a relatively young, well-fed, unfired sparrow, who took the burden of responsibility off the shoulders of the chairman, readily providing the Captain with a list of elders of both sexes in the diocese subordinate to the village council. The issue of daily bread was resolved just as quickly. The travelers ate the entire supply of bread captured in Podvoloshino, hoping for the Preobrazhenskaya bakery. The latter, due to the move to another premises, was inactive. An extraordinary baking of bread was organized for noble travelers, which was to be received on the morning of the 21st. Then the team, breaking into pairs, went to conduct surveys and interrogations of eyewitnesses of the Tunguska Diva. As always, old men and women shamelessly confused the circumstances of the phenomenon that occurred 57 years ago. However, being peasants, everyone unanimously claimed that a sheaf of fire was flying. Only one, a carpenter by profession, observed the flight of the “log.” A wise phrase was uttered by one of the respondents: “Don’t really believe the testimony of eyewitnesses who, having forgotten the facts, are simply fantasizing.” He's probably not entirely right. The old people treated the interviewers with great affection; it was so pleasant for them to return to the days of their distant youth, and they willingly answered our questions...

... We quickly reached the village. Moga, where several eyewitnesses of the Tunguska marvel lived out their lives, who willingly shared with us their memories, distorted in the distorting mirror of time. Only one old woman, who looked suspiciously at the crew members sent to question her, said that she had instructions not to disclose this secret information to outsiders. This instruction was given to her by her uncle famous explorer Tunguska meteorite by Viktor Konenkin, a mathematics teacher in Vanavara...

... After lunch we came to Yerema - a small village on the low right bank... In the village, as everywhere else, the people are very friendly and responsive. The form of “interrogation” of eyewitnesses was a little confusing. In my opinion, Valentin Tsvetkov is trying too quickly to take the bull, that is, the old eyewitness, by the horns (remember - don’t remember, saw - didn’t see, heard - didn’t hear).

Despite my shirking, I had to interrogate three old women. For some reason, they are all extremely frivolous and don’t remember anything...

Bugorkan

Kaplin Dmitry Ivanovich , ('82)

Lived in Narkaya - inhabited. the point on the Chon is on the Mukai, flowing into the Vilyui. It was daytime. sat. A lot of noise. We think it’s not thunder, but something else. I didn't see it myself. It was a clear hot day. It's like thunder, but heard differently. It goes on and on for a long time, further and further. Flight direction (by sound) 215 0 . Thunder spawn point 150 0 . Angular height 60 0 .

Temporarily lives in Bugorkan, interviewed 18 km higher while mowing. Lives permanently in Nakanna.

Kaplin Spiridon Nikol . (!882g.)

Luka, below Nakanna 30-40 km.

There were ten thunders there. In the morning I fell asleep. My father said that the lightning went down to where the sun was setting. Nothing flew, it just thundered through the air, at the end of June, at about 5 o’clock. It’s different from thunder, it goes and thunders.

Kaplina Anastasia Konst . (1884).

Toykhaya - Yakutskaya - on Chon. I heard that everything was thundering during the day. An old woman was rowing hay while mowing and heard thunder. I didn't see the body. Everything was loud.

Gromov Mikh. Ivanovich , 1899

He lived in Lavrushka in 1908. He doesn’t remember anything.

Uichegir Avdotya Illarion . (80 years old).

Toihae.

Doesn't remember anything .

It thundered during the day. I haven’t heard it myself, based on stories. Like fire it flew down the Chone. She was at home, probably sleeping. It was a long time ago, before morning.

...By lunchtime we are in Bugorkan. After light tea in home improvement - interviews with his grandfather - a handsome Yakut in flasks, gray-haired, with a high-cheekbone face. The head is tied with a scarf. About 85 years old, stocky - he needs to get over his hangover. Then 4 more old Yakut women - with pipes, wrinkled, do not understand anything in Russian - used the services of a Yakut livestock specialist. The old women, as always, are almost unknown - they don’t remember anything or are afraid to remember. Well, here are all the eyewitnesses...

SalatkinSergey Borisovich . 1920

From the mouth of the Nepa 350 km Uyang.

According to the parents' stories, it looked like a bell in shape and glittered. And then the old woman was carrying water, she saw it, abandoned the water and the washing. “The sun is falling,” and he runs out and says, “Where, why are you, you fool, the sun is still there.” The mother heard noise, then explosions.

The village of Bur - 15 km below Uyan - 1.5 km above the village of Bur, a hole with a diameter of 10 m was punched in the river, there is smoke. The miller saw it. The source of the Tira - the tributary of the Lena - the nomadic Evenks heard thunder. There was a storehouse about 8 km away. Thought that<>. In the morning we ran - everything was fine. From the Podkamennaya Tunguska, the Evenks say that the forests were shaking. They shouted that there would be the end of the world - they stopped smoking so as not to punish them.

Posted Fri, 01/04/2016 - 07:33 by Cap

People rarely walk along Nizhnyaya Tunguska. They often float along tributaries. For the most part, the river is used as the final part of the route along its tributaries or as an addition to hiking trails in the area of ​​its basin. Large tributaries Tutonchana, Vivi, Kochechum, Severnaya, Erachimo and others flow into the Lower Tunguska, and independent travel is made along each of them.

The current of the Lower Tunguska in this section is 5 - 7 km/hour. The river flows along picturesque banks.

During the first 100 km of rafting there are several easy transitions. Sometimes there are single stones in the riverbed. At the 130th km from the mouth of Nimde there is a large rapid about 1 km long. Here the river narrows (its width is about 100 m), and the flow speed increases significantly. In the middle of the river there is a drainage from a huge rock slab.

When approaching the rapids, you will have to go around a ridge of underwater rocks, which begins at the right bank and then runs across the channel. There are also pitfalls on the left. In the threshold the shaft is higher than 1 m. The main passage is on the right bank. The swell on the threshold floods small ships: you need to be careful and move away from the swell. On the right bank below the threshold there is a weather station.

GEOGRAPHY OF LOWER TUNGUSA
Lower Tunguska is a river in Siberia, in the Irkutsk region and Krasnoyarsk region of Russia, the right tributary of the Yenisei. It flows along the Central Siberian Plateau south of the Putorana Plateau. The river is navigable in high water up to the village of Tura. At the mouth there is the Turukhansk pier. The second largest right tributary of the Yenisei, flowing into it near the city of Turukhansk. Freeze-up from October to May. The spring flood in the upper reaches of the river is in May/June, in the lower reaches - in May/July.

According to the nature of the flow, the structure of the valley and banks, the river can be divided into two sections: the upper section - from the source to the village. Preobrazhenskoye (Preobrazhenka); the lower one is from this village to the mouth.

Upstream
In the upper part, 580 km long, the river bed lies in a wide valley, the gentle slopes of which are composed of clay-sandy deposits. In this part of its course, the Lower Tunguska comes close to the river. Lena near the city of Kirensk; here the two rivers are separated by a distance of 15–20 km. Current speeds on the rifts are 0.4-0.6 m/s, and on the stretches they are low.

Downstream
Below p. Preobrazhensky Lower Tunguska flows in a narrow and deep valley with high, often rocky banks. The channel is characterized by numerous lake-like extensions, sometimes reaching a length of 20 km or more.

In the riverbed, in places where crystalline rocks emerge, there are numerous rapids. The most significant of them are “Sakko”, “Vivinsky”, “Uchamsky” and “Bolshoi” (Oron), where the current speed reaches 3-5 m/s. Below the rapids, the river depth reaches 60-100 m.
Often on the slopes of the valley one can observe kurums or screes of large stones, up to 0.5-1.5 m in diameter. Such screes sometimes protrude far into the riverbed and are called “corgi”, and the quiet backwater that forms behind these spits is called “kurya” "

Along the shore there is a strip of “towpath” made of stones with a diameter of 10-40 cm. In some places the stones lie so densely and are so polished on top that they form a kind of pavement. In the very lower reaches, below the confluence of the river. Northern, the river flows among steep limestone cliffs that drop steeply into the water; The current speed here is 1-1.5 m/s.
In the bed of the Lower Tunguska, whirlpools form in places (locally known as “korchagi”). They arise in places where a rocky cliff juts deep into the river bed from one bank. The stream, hitting it, sharply deviates to the opposite bank. Below the cliffs in such places, the river forms whirlpools with funnels up to 100 m deep. Korchagi are especially dangerous for navigation in the spring during the flood period, when the water rises high above the low-water level.

River hydrology
In terms of annual flow, the Lower Tunguska ranks eleventh among the rivers of Russia. The average annual water flow at the mouth is 3680 m³/s, which corresponds to an annual flow of 116 km³ per year.

The minimum flow rate was observed in 1967 and was 2861 m³/s, the maximum was 4690 m³/s in 1974 or, respectively, for the river mouth ~3093 m³/s and ~5070 m³/s. The river is fed by melting snow and summer rains.

IN winter time the river is low-water, since its basin is located in the permafrost region and it receives very poor ground nutrition. Observed over 52 years, the minimum average monthly flow was 27.8 m³/s in March 1969 - an unusually dry winter - while the maximum monthly flow reached 31.5 thousand m³/s (June 1959).[

Below is a diagram of the average water content of the Lower Tunguska in m³/s by month, obtained on the basis of 52 years of observations from the Bolshoi Porog control and measuring station.

The summer-spring flood accounts for 73% of the river's annual flow. The amplitude of water level fluctuations is very large and is the largest observed on the main rivers of Russia. In narrowed areas, powerful ice jams are observed, in which the level rises 30-35 m above the low water level. Spring ice drift on Nizhnyaya Tunguska is stormy; traces of its action on the coast are visible in polished rocks, uprooted trees, etc. On some days, the spring flood reaches 74-112 thousand m³/s and provides up to 50-70% of the flood volume of water in the lower Yenisei.

Tributaries
The main tributaries of the Lower Tunguska: on the right - Eyka, Kochechum, Yambukan, Vivi, Tutonchana, Erachimo, Severnaya; on the left - Nepa, Bolshaya Erema, Teteya, Ilimpeya, Nidym, Taimura, Uchami. The main tributary of the Lower Tunguska is the river. Kochechum with an average annual water flow at the mouth of 600 m³/s and a basin area of ​​about 100 thousand km².

Shipping
Navigation on the river is fraught with difficulties due to large number rapids and whirlpools. Navigation of heavy-duty vessels is possible during the spring flood period and in some years, in the presence of heavy precipitation, a period of short-term navigation is possible in late summer - early autumn. The Great Rapids (Oron), 128–130 km from the mouth, is especially dangerous for navigation.

In 1927, the first steamship passed through the Great Rapids; this marked the beginning of navigation on the Lower Tunguska from the city of Turukhansk to the village. Tours. As of 2009, the shipping area of ​​the Yenisei Shipping Company includes the village of Kislokan, 1155 km from the mouth. Rafting is possible along the entire length of the river.

In 1911, research was carried out and a project was developed to connect the Lena and Nizhnyaya Tunguska rivers in the area of ​​Kirensk. Near this city, both rivers are 15 km apart, but the Lena flows at an altitude of 245.3 m above sea level, and the Lower Tunguska - at an altitude of 329.7 m and is a non-navigable river here. At the beginning of the 20th century, the construction of the canal was considered inappropriate due to its complexity and high cost.

Interesting Facts
History of the colonization of the north Western Siberia and the area of ​​the river mouth by Russians starting from the 16th-17th centuries was reflected in different names, which were carried by the river in different historical periods. For some time the river was called Trinity Tunguskaya, Monastyrskaya Tunguskaya and Mangazeyskaya Tunguskaya.
In literature, Lower Tunguska is described in the novel by V. Ya. Shishkov “Ugryum River”. The fictitious name of the river Ugryum-reka could have been borrowed by the author from a Siberian song. In the village of Erbogachen on the river, which in the novel was called Erbokhomokhlya, is located local history museum them. V. Ya. Shishkova. The author took part in an expedition to Lower Tunguska in 1911.
Existing sources indicate water flow at the mouth of the tributary of the river. Northern equal to 300 m³/s. Taking into account the fact that the hydrographic point “Big Threshold” on the river. The Lower Tunguska is located higher from the confluence of the Severnaya River (62 km), which means that the average water flow at the mouth of the Lower Tunguska - equal to 3680 m³/s - is significantly underestimated. If the water flow at a distance of ~120 km from the confluence of the Yenisei River. The Lower Tunguska is 3404 m³/s, then the value for the mouth in this case should be 3700–3900 m³/s.

The issue of constructing the Evenki hydroelectric power station in Nizhnyaya Tunguska is currently being discussed, which, if the project is implemented, will become the largest hydroelectric power station in Russia.

TURUKHANSK
Turukhansk is a village that has lost its city status, the administrative center of the Turukhansky district Krasnoyarsk Territory Russia. Administrative center of Turukhansky rural settlement. There is an airport and a river port.
Initially, the settlement of Turukhansk appeared in the 17th century at the confluence of the Turukhan River with the Yenisei, on its left bank. Zimovye (later the city of Novaya Mangazeya) was part of the trade route along Turukhan, which was mainly used for the fur trade.

Subsequently, Turukhansk fell into decay, was deprived of the status of a city and its name was transferred to the village of Monastyrskoye, modern Turukhansk, which is located approximately 35 km to the southeast, on the other bank of the Yenisei. Old Turukhansk is now called Staroturuhansk (65°54′55″ N 87°34′30″ E (G) (O)). After October revolution In 1917, there was a tendency to increase the population of the village of Monastyrskoye at the confluence of the Lower Tunguska River with the Yenisei, on its right bank. The village was renamed Turukhansk.

Since the late 1930s Soviet authority created special camps for exiles in the Turukhansk region. Until 1956, released prisoners had restrictions on their rights and settled in remote settlements, including Turukhansk.
According to the census, in 1989 the population of Turukhansk reached 8.9 thousand inhabitants, but after the collapse of the USSR, people began to move to more climatically favorable areas of the country, including in the south of the Krasnoyarsk Territory.

Early 19th century
There are two churches in the city: the stone one, the Transfiguration of the Lord (built by Matvey Fedorovich Khoroshev, illuminated in 1829) and the wooden one of Peter and Paul. State-owned houses: a bread store, a salt barn, a wine cellar and a powder cellar. The city is governed by a Separate Assessor, here are also the Salt Bailiff and a hundred Cossacks of the Yenisei Cossack Regiment under the control of one Hundred Officer.
There are 52 philistine houses, they are inhabited by burghers: 124 males, 107 females, peasants: 19 males, 16 females. Houses, as a rule, are small, most of them are heated and have no yards. Some have baths and premises for livestock. Agriculture is not developed. Men spend most of the year away from the city, hunting and fishing. The basis winter nutrition- fish and prepared wild fowl.
Mail from Yeniseisk to Turukhansk and back was delivered once a month on the 5th. Mail delivery was carried out in the summer by boats, and in the winter - on sledges, which were moved by people, deer or dogs.

Population
1897 1989 2002 2010
212 ↗8900 ↘4849 ↘4662

Turukhansk is located 1,474 km north of Krasnoyarsk, at the confluence of the Lower Tunguska with the Yenisei, 120 kilometers south of the Arctic Circle. The village is located on the right bank of the Yenisei River, geographically it belongs to the western part of Eastern Siberia and to the western foothills of the Central Siberian Plateau.
Turukhansk is located in the taiga zone with a sharply continental subarctic climate. Average temperatures in July are 16.5 °C, in January - −25.4 °C, and there can be frosts down to −57 °C. On average, about 598 mm of precipitation falls per year.

Average annual negative temperature and low winter temperatures cause the widespread distribution of permafrost, the thickness of which in this area reaches 50-200 m.
During the spring flood, the water level in the Yenisei can rise to 11 m above normal, which is largely due to floods in the Lower Tunguska.
Along the Yenisei from Krasnoyarsk or Yeniseisk during the navigation period (navigation in the upper reaches of the Yenisei from approximately May 25 to September 25, depending on the temperature, plus or minus 10 days), ships run to Dudinka with a stop in Turukhansk.
Place of exile
IN different times The following were exiled to Turukhansk:
Decembrist Lisovsky, Nikolai Fedorovich (1828-1844)
Solts, Aron Alexandrovich (— 1917)
Martov, Yuliy Osipovich (1896)
Sverdlov, Yakov Mikhailovich (1913-1917)
Voino-Yasenetsky, Valentin Feliksovich (St. Luke) (1923-1925)
Joseph Stalin (Dzhugashvili) served his exile in the Turukhansk region before the revolution.
Joasaph (Udalov) (1926-1929)
Kramarov, Viktor Savelyevich (father of Kramarov Savely Viktorovich) (1950-1951)
Efron, Ariadna Sergeevna (daughter of Marina Tsvetaeva and Sergei Efron) (1949-1955)
and others.

RAFTING ON THE LOWER TUNGUSA
Rafting length - 240 km
Duration - 7 - 8 days
Seasonality - July - August
Difficulty category - II
Only people rarely walk along Lower Tunguska. For the most part, the river is used as the final part of the route along its tributaries or as an addition to hiking trails in the area of ​​its basin. Large tributaries Tutonchana, Vivi, Kochechum, Severnaya, Erachimo and others flow into the Lower Tunguska, and independent travel is made along each of them.
You can sail along the Lower Tunguska starting from Tura, where planes fly from Krasnoyarsk: this is a long, easy route along a powerful taiga river. During your trip, you can fish in the tributaries and admire the majestic landscapes.
The lower reaches of the river can be an interesting addition, for example, to a walking route along the southern part of Western Putorana with a length of up to 300 km: the Erachimo River valley - the Holokit River valley - Lake Oneka - the Nimde River valley - the mouth of the Nimde River. From the mouth of Nimde you can raft on any tourist boat, depending on the capabilities of the group.
The current of the Lower Tunguska in this section is 5 - 7 km/hour. The river flows along picturesque banks. During the first 100 km of rafting there are several easy transitions. Sometimes there are single stones in the riverbed. At the 130th km from the mouth of Nimde there is a large rapid about 1 km long. Here the river narrows (its width is about 100 m), and the flow speed increases significantly. In the middle of the river there is a drainage from a huge rock slab. When approaching the rapids, you will have to go around a ridge of underwater rocks, which begins at the right bank and then runs across the channel. There are also pitfalls on the left. In the threshold the shaft is higher than 1 m. The main passage is on the right bank. The swell on the threshold floods small ships: you need to be careful and move away from the swell. On the right bank below the threshold there is a weather station.
Other obstacles should be noted: the Gerasimovo roll, 200 - 300 m below the mouth of the Erachimo (passage on the left side of the channel: there are many stones on the right); the "Cheeks" threshold is 10 - 12 km below the weather station (the river is compressed by high rocks); The “oblique” threshold is 85 km from the weather station (here, at the narrowing of the river, a ridge of underwater stones stretches on the right, and a ridge of surface boulders juts into the river on the left; the threshold is overcome closer to the right bank). Before the confluence of the right tributary - the Northern - there are several simple riffles. Further up to Turukhansk there are only separate “clamps” to the rocks.
The journey ends in Turukhansk, from where you can travel by water or air to Krasnoyarsk.

ATTRACTIONS OF LOWER TUNGUKA
The bed of the Lower Tunguska is replete with rapids (locally called shivers) and rapids.
In many places the river cuts through outcrops of solid crystalline rocks (traps). Where the channel passes among high, steep banks, traps made up of weathered outcrops form characteristic columnar units (pillars) and stone screes are observed, sometimes extending far into the river bed. Such screes are called corgi.

Bull of Turin
(left bank of the Lower Tunguska).
On the right is the mouth of Kochechum
Upon exiting the mountains onto the plain, the river is approached in places from one bank or the other by spurs of mountain heights that drop steeply to the water's edge. Such rocky cliffs, approaching the river from one bank, are locally called bulls.
According to the nature of the flow, the structure of the valley and banks, the river can be divided into two sections:
1) upper - from the source to the village. Preobrazhenskoe and
2) lower - from the named village to the mouth.
In the upper section, about 580 km long, the river mostly flows along the bottom of a wide valley, the gentle slopes of which are composed of clay-sandy deposits. In this part of its course, the Lower Tunguska comes close to the river. Lena; here both rivers are separated by a distance of 15-20 km. Current speeds on the rifts are 0.4-0.6 m/sec, and on the reaches they are low.

Below p. Preobrazhensky Lower Tunguska flows in a narrow and deep valley with high, often rocky banks. In the riverbed, in places where crystalline rocks come out, there are numerous rapids.
Often on the slopes of the valley one can observe screes of large stones, up to 0.5-1.5 m in diameter. Such screes sometimes protrude far into the riverbed and are called corgi, and the quiet backwater that forms behind these spits is called kurya. Along the shore there is a strip of “scourge” made of stones with a diameter of 10-40 cm. In some places the stones lie so densely and are so polished on top that they form an “alluvial pavement”.
(In the old days, strapmen pulled limkas with loads on a whip upstream).
According to the dictionary of V.I. Dahl's use of the words becheva, towline (see below figure from A.A. Sokolov's work "Hydrography of the USSR") is incorrect; the words should be pronounced and written correctly: BECHEVA, BECHEVANIK.

In the very lower reaches, below the confluence of the river. Northern, the river flows among steep limestone cliffs that drop steeply into the water; The current speed here is 1-1.5 m/sec.
Powerful whirlpools (locally known as korchagi) form in places in the bed of the Lower Tunguska. They arise in places where a rocky cliff juts deep into the river bed from one bank.
The stream, hitting it, sharply deviates to the opposite bank. Below the cliff a whirlpool is formed, where the river creates a funnel sometimes up to 60-100 m deep.
Such, for example, is the korchaga in the area of ​​Ulovnoy Kamen (Hayuli catch), 398 km from the mouth. The depth of the fairway in 1964 in this place was more than 36 meters. Korchagi are especially dangerous for navigation in the spring during the flood period, when the water rises high above the low-water level.
The depth of the whirlpool (korchaga) formed by a similar rock on the left bank of the river. Vivi, 4 km from its mouth, reaches more than 90 m, approx. AK.
The average annual water flow of the Lower Tunguska is 3600 m3/sec. The river is fed by water from melting snow and summer rains. In winter, the river has low water, since its basin is located in the permafrost region and it receives very poor ground nutrition. The amplitude of water level fluctuations is very large and is the largest ever observed on rivers in the USSR.
In narrowed places (in the cheeks) powerful ice jams are observed, in which the level rises 30-35 m above the low water level.
The spring ice drift on Nizhnyaya Tunguska is proceeding rapidly. Traces of its action on the banks are visible in polished rocks, uprooted trees, etc.
Navigation on the river is fraught with difficulties due to the large number of rapids and whirlpools. The Big Rapid (128-130 km from the mouth) and the korchaga near the city of Turukhansk are especially dangerous for navigation.
According to data from water gauges, the amplitude of fluctuations in the water level in the river (between maximum navigation and minimum navigation) gradually increases towards the mouth of the Nizhnyaya Tunguska and reaches 31.8 m at the Bolshoy Porog.

In 1927, the first steamship passed through the Great Rapids; this marked the beginning of navigation on the Lower Tunguska from the city of Turukhansk to the village of Tura.
Rafting is possible along the entire length of the river.
In 1911, research was carried out and a project for connecting pp was developed. Lena and Lower Tunguska in the area of ​​Kirensk. Due to the complexity and high cost, the construction of the canal was considered inappropriate.

Explanation of the table:
The local names used by the residents of Tura are given in brackets (for example, the First Pillars rocks, the Militseiskie rocks, the Meteorite camp, etc.), and the new values ​​of the distances on the kilometer posts installed along the banks of the river are also indicated in brackets, for example, p.g. T. Tura 864 km (866 km).
The distance values ​​were replaced due to the publication of a new, more accurate location (Map of the Lower Tunguska River from the village of Kislokan to the mouth, 1976). It was made based on materials from hydrographic work carried out in 1970-1974. riverbed survey parties of the Yenisei technical section.

In this regard, discrepancies arose in the distances to settlements Nizhnyaya and Podkamennaya Tunguska, which are taken from the website of the Yenisei Shipping Company - here Kislokan is located at a distance of 1155 km, and in this table at 1152 km.
In general, the discrepancies amounted to 3-2 km, but the distances between points remained the same, and in order to calculate them (for example, for a trip), the accuracy indicated in the table will be sufficient.
name of the place Nizhnyaya Tunguska
Distance
from the mouth (km)
Bad Cape rock
7
R. Northern (right tributary)
63
Northern stone
67,5
Oblique threshold
Shivera Oblique Threshold
formed by rocky shoals coming from both banks, narrowing the shipping channel and forming fast current. At high levels the shallows are flooded
85-86
Spartacus roll
Rocky shallows extend up to 250 m into the river from the right and left banks. The entire river bed is replete with stones. The smallest depth on individual stones reaches 2.1 m.
The riffle is surrounded by two pairs of gates.
105-106
Cheeks
catch Cheeks
are characterized by the presence of strong whirlpools, covering the river from the right to the left bank for more than 2/3 of its width. The fastest current is on the right bank
106-107
Gerasimovsky roll
from the mouth of the river Erachimo, down from the right bank, a drying rocky shoal extends along which an underwater stone ridge extends into the river bed, extending to the ship's passage.
There are also coastal stones along the left bank
121-123,3
Below the Great Threshold (1926)
Big threshold
formed by rocky ledges extending into the river from the right bank by 210 m, from the left by 180 m, and narrowing the shipping passage to 80-100 m. The current in the rapids at high levels reaches 18-19 km/h
129-130,5
Kamenny roll
In the upper part of the riffle, near the right and left banks, there are separate stones that go out into the riverbed. At the bottom and at the exit from the riffle, the right bank has a rocky outcrop
160,3-161,5
shivera Noginskaya
formed by ridges of underwater rocks extending from the right and left banks. The coastal ridge crosses the shipping channel. The smallest depth on the ridge at the design level is 2.6 m.

283,0-285,5
With. Noginsk
Noginsky mine (on the left bank).
The village was closed in 2005
In 1982, ~30 km southeast of Noginsk, beyond the administrative border of the EAO, an underground nuclear explosion was carried out
288
R. Kochumdek (right tributary)
379,5
Mount Ulovnaya (on the left bank).
catch of Hayuli
Below the mountain a large whirlpool (korchaga) is formed with a current from right to left.
In 1964, the depth of the river in the fairway here was 36 m. (see diagram of the formation of the korchaga above)
398
R. Detykte (left tributary)
416
With. Tutonchany (on the right bank)
R. Tutonchana (right tributary)
437
Kamenny Boets tract (left bank)
474,2
R. Chikty (left tributary)
513
R. Korbunchana (right tributary)
533
R. Chiskova (right tributary)
540,3
Shivera Chiskovskaya. In the lower part of the rift, stones are found in the ship's passage. The minimum depth at the design level is 2.2 m. The stones are fenced with three milestones.
538,5-541,5
Sentinel Islands
547-558
With. Uchami (on the right bank)
593
Hektama Island
596,3-598,3
Uchamsky threshold
in low water it is furnished with three white and two red milestones
603,0-604,5
Shivera Uchamskaya
From the left bank to the middle of the river there are separate stones, the depth of which at the design level is 2.2 m.
607,5-608,5
R. Kataramba (left tributary)
An underground nuclear explosion was carried out against the mouth of the river on the right bank of the Lower Tunguska in 1981
640,7
Iryakta Island
652-654,2
Gagari Island
657,7-660,0
Korablik Island
677,3-677,9
R. Taimura (left tributary)
682,3
R. Vivi (right tributary)
(here at the mouth in 1926 there was a Vivi trading post)

699
Vivinsky threshold
a narrow shipping channel is formed by a protrusion protruding into the river from the left bank against the lower part of Zayachiy Island (702-704.3 km). Below the ledge are two rocky islands that are flooded at high water levels. On the right, the ship's passage compresses the rocky middle, located at the mouth of Zayachiy Island. Below there are single stones.
700,5-703
R. Exa (right tributary)
718
Exa rock (on the right bank)
719-720,3
Oneksky roll
The pebble flooded middle presses the ship's passage to the left bank, from which pebble lining and individual stones narrow it to 100-120 m. Towards the mouth of the middle in the river bed there are also individual stones.
728-731
R. Yambukan
742,4
Crane Islands
761,3-774
Babkino village (on the right bank).
Employees of the Shpat expedition (No. 20) lived in this former village. Spar was mined on the opposite bank of the Lower Tunguska 795
Suslov rocks (on the right bank)
801,7-804,5
Chaya4chny Island
81
R. Ganalchik (left tributary)
819
roll N. Ergatinsky
A stony corga extends from the right bank, with a continuation under water into the river to the ship channel up to 200 m. Below the left bank, a stony corga also extends far into the river. The shipping channel is narrowed.
In the area of ​​the rapids on the left bank of the Lower Tunguska, two underground nuclear explosion(1977 and 1979). The mines are located at a distance of ~300 m from each other.
There are special signs
822-824
camp (“Meteorite”) (on the left bank). Here in the late 80s of the twentieth century (one kilometer from the explosion sites) there was a children's health camp that used a residential complex in which people who were preparing nuclear tests previously lived
824
Ergaty Island (Veal)
827-834
With. Nidym (on the right bank)
841
Shivera Nidymskaya
formed by the left bank island of Nidymsky (840.3-843.1) and from the right bank by korgoy with individual stones extending into the river up to 150 m. The ship's passage is near the island.
841-842
R. Delingde (right tributary) (First Delinda)
847,6
R. Hektama (left tributary, just above the mouth - lake)
848
R. Arkhip-Balagan (Second Delinda) (right tributary)
851,5
Pebble Island
853,5-856,5
R. Delimekit (right tributary)
854,3

R. Potap (Potapovka) (right tributary)
858
manual Uchupchunan (right tributary)
861,2
R. Kochechum (right tributary)
864
p.g.t. Tura. In low water on the Lower Tunguska (500 meters above the mouth of the Kochechum) there is a pebble middle with separately protruding stones. The running channel is on the left bank.
864 (866)
Bushmarine Island (~800 m)
868 (870)
R. Kiramki (left tributary)
(at the mouth until 1995 there was a settlement of the expedition "Spat" (No. 20), which mined Icelandic spar
926,7
roll Sukhorechensky (Osipovsky)
941-944
Sukhorechenskaya rock (on the left bank)
944
Barricade rocks (first pillars)
(On the left coast)
952-954
Shivera Turka, rock (on the right bank)
R. Turka (left tributary)
1014,6
Yastrebok cliff (on the left bank)
1050
R. N. Kochechumo (right tributary)
1061,7

R.V. Kochechumo (right tributary)
1075,3
R. Muldaul (left tributary)
1081,5
Scallop rock (on the left bank)
1097-1098
Guskonda Island (with lake)
1106,5-1109,5
R. Kananda (right tributary)
1118
Lonely cliff (on the left bank)
1126
R. N. Kislokan (left tributary)
1133,5
Cherepovy cliff (on the right bank)
1135
Zalivnoy Island
1136
Kislokan Island
1148-1151
R. V. Kislokan (left tributary)
1151,5
With. Kislokan
1152 (1155)

____________________________________________________________________________________________

SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND PHOTO:
Team Nomads
NIZHNYAYA TUNGUSKA, Yandex: Dictionary of modern geographical names
Surface water resources of the USSR: Hydrological knowledge. T. 16. Angara-Yenisei region. Vol. 1. Yenisei / Ed. G. S. Karabaeva. - L.: Gidrometeoizdat, 1967. - 823 p.
Sokolov Chapter 23. Eastern Siberia// Hydrography of the USSR. — 1954.
Great Soviet Encyclopedia // B. A. Vvedensky II. — Moscow: PGK im. Molotov, 08/13/1956. - T. 43. - P. 392-393.

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Soon the outlines of Turukhansk, one of the oldest settlements in Eastern Siberia, appeared on the horizon.

At 23-30 the ship moored at the landing stage located at the mouth of the Nizhnyaya Tunguska. As elsewhere on the river, despite the late (albeit completely bright) hour, there are a lot of people crowding the pier, several trucks are approaching the ship - "Chkalov" brought a lot of cargo to Turukhansk.

Unlike all previous marinas, in Turukhansk the ship stays for a long time - as much as an hour and a half (from 23-30 to one in the morning). This is great - the village is located near the Arctic Circle, so the night will not prevent us from getting to know Turukhansk in more detail.

Turukhansk- one of the oldest settlements in the Krasnoyarsk Territory. Turukhansk is older than Krasnoyarsk. Let me give you some historical data.

In 1600, Boris Godunov ordered the construction of the Mangazeya fort, 200 kilometers from the mouth of the Tazovskaya Bay. It was the first Russian city in Siberia to have great importance in mastering and studying natural resources Siberia. The city was beautiful with its pointed towers and gilded domes of churches. Industrialists were attracted by the fur-rich Siberia of the Yenisei region and the areas east of the Yenisei. To get to the Yenisei, people sailed from Mangazeya up the Taz River, and from there along its tributaries and small watercourses they reached the Taz-Yenisei watershed, where they dragged and then through the tributaries reached the Turukhan River, a tributary of the Yenisei.

In 1607, on the banks of the Turukhan River near its confluence with the Yenisei, the governors Zherebtsov and Davydov founded the Turukhan winter quarters, which main role in the development of the north of the Yenisei Siberia. After the big fire in Mangazeya in 1619, the Turukhansk winter hut, located on big river, began to be settled by Mangazeans and turned into a city. Devastating fires in Mangazeya in 1642 and 1662 led to its final desolation; the inhabitants of Mangazeya moved to Turukhansk, which was long known as New Mangazeya. In 1670, the voivodeship administration was transferred to Turukhansk from Mangazeya. In 1677, 4 wooden towers with cannons were built in Novaya Mangazeya; in 1780, the city was renamed Turukhansk and became a district town.

In the 2nd half of the 17th and throughout the 18th centuries, Turukhansk was a large shopping center, specializing in furs. Merchants and traders not only from Siberia, but also from all over Russia came to the Turukhansk fair. The fair began on June 29 and lasted two weeks; Gostiny Dvor had 25 shops; In addition, many temporary shops and booths were built in the open, and about 25 km from the city there was a fair on ships and boats. As already noted, all these years Turukhansk was not located in the place where it is now, but somewhat lower down the river.

In 1822, the period of decline of the city began - it was left behind the state, and in the mid-19th century it was moved to its current location, at the mouth of the Nizhnyaya Tunguska River - to where the village of Monastyrskoye used to be located, and in the old place there is now the village of Staroturukhansk.

Village Monastyrskoye, on the site of which modern Turukhansk is located, was founded in 1660 - then a monastery was founded on this place by the monk Tikhon, exiled to Mangazeya, around which houses began to appear, forming a village. Since the end of the 17th century, the monastery played a significant role in the economic development of the north of the Yenisei region - over time, the monks concentrated in their hands a significant amount of land and industries in the Yenisei and Mangazei districts. The monastery was the cultural center of the region, and was also actively involved in the Christianization of the indigenous population. In 1923, the monastery was closed - to this day, only the Trinity Church, used for administrative needs, has survived without domes. In 1991, it became operational again, and in 1994, the restoration of the monastery began.

For a significant part of its history, Turukhansk was a place of exile - in the ancient Holy Trinity Monastery for a long time there was a religious prison, here in 1827 the Decembrist N.S. was imprisoned. Bobrishchev-Pushkin, and from the beginning of the 20th century Turukhansk became a center of political exile - first revolutionaries were exiled here (Sverdlov, Stalin, Spandaryan were here), and then political prisoners convicted in Soviet times.

In Turukhansk there is a museum of political exile, founded in 1938, as a memorial house-museum of Ya.M. Sverdlov, in 1984 merged with the house-museum of S.S. Spandaryan, and in 1992 renamed the “Political Exile” Museum. The museum contains authentic items of that time - clothes of exiles made of deer skins, the trestle bed on which Stalin rested (he constantly stayed in Kureyka, which is lower along the Yenisei, but twice a month he was allowed to come from there to Turukhansk for mail), as well as letters and photos. The exposition also reflects the link Soviet period. So, in 1949, A.S. Efron, translator, poetess, daughter of M.I. Tsvetaeva, came to Turukhansk along the Yenisei for life. Here she lived and worked until 1955, until her complete rehabilitation.

In an hour and a half of parking, I managed to walk around almost the entire Turukhansk. The village left a very pleasant impression - very well maintained and clean. There is an airport in Turukhansk that serves local lines that connect remote villages of the region.

Photo walk around Turukhansk.

Monument to those who fell in the Great Patriotic War:

Monument to S.S. Spandaryan against the backdrop of the memorial house (now the “Political Exile” museum)

Turukhansk pier, located at the confluence of the Lower Tunguska with the Yenisei and a small fleet on the Lower Tunguska:

The view from the steep cliff is especially amazing - taiga, and everywhere you look there are wide expanses of water! Here, the Yenisei, as vast as the sea, receives Lower Tunguska- one of his own largest tributaries. Lower Tunguska (close-up) meets the mighty Yenisei(from behind the cape)

In terms of its water content, the Lower Tunguska is only slightly inferior to the Angara (but it still carries more water than the Kama, or three Don, or two Dnieper, or one and a half Neva), but in length the Lower Tunguska has no equal among the tributaries of the Yenisei - for almost It carries its waters to the Yenisei for three thousand kilometers - for comparison, this is only slightly shorter than the length of the Ob River. If the Lower Tunguska flowed through the European part of Russia, it would be its second largest river after the Volga. This is a big river - Lower Tunguska.

In the upper reaches it flows in a wide valley, and in the lower reaches lake-like expansions up to 25 kilometers wide alternate with numerous gorges through which the river breaks through the Tunguska Plateau. In the gorges, the river bed narrows in places to 100 meters, the banks more than 200 meters high are completely vertical, and the depths sometimes reach 60-100 meters. Like Podkamennaya, Nizhnyaya Tunguska is very rough River with numerous thresholds and shivers. The river is navigable mainly in high water. There are very few villages on the river: the only relatively large village on the river is the capital of Evenkia, Tura, with a population of about 9 thousand people. Tura is located almost a thousand kilometers from the mouth of the Lower Tunguska, 1630 kilometers from Krasnoyarsk, while Turukhansk, located at the mouth of the Tunguska, is the closest settlement to it! Caravans with fuel and food rise into high water along the Lower Tunguska to Tura, and the rest of the time you can only get there by air.

As soon as this river was not called different years- Trinity Tunguska, Mangazeya Tunguska, and sometimes, with the light hand of the writer V.Ya. Shishkov, are called the “Sullen River”. The Lower Tunguska is a unique, capricious and amazingly beautiful river - rapids, river gorges, breakers and riffles, beauty and desolation of the banks, coastal mountains and rocks. On the plateau of the left bank of the Lower Tunguska there are unusually clean and beautiful mountain lakes.

The mouth of the Lower Tunguska from the ship:

For a long time I stood on a cliff at the point of two huge Siberian rivers, looking first to the south up the Yenisei, from where we sailed, then to the east - up the Lower Tunguska, which opens the way to a mysterious huge region where I so want to penetrate... then to the north , where two rivers, having united, flow further through the Great Yenisei into the Arctic Ocean...

Approaching the pier, I wander along the water for a long time...

On Far East In Russia, among its many rivers, stretching across endless expanses rich in natural gifts, there is a surprisingly clean and beautiful river Tunguska. Is she left

It is along this line that the border between Khabarovsk Territory and the Jewish Autonomous Region, respectively located on the left and right banks.

General information

It's amazing in these beautiful lands Podkamennaya Tunguska is a river that represents one of the small pearls in the beautiful necklace of numerous natural attractions of Siberia.

The Tungus, who have lived since ancient times in the vast territory of Eastern Siberia, began to be called Evenks in 1931. And the fact that along the banks of the Yenisei from the very Arctic Ocean the Tungus lived for centuries before the border with China, which is proven by the fact that there are many rivers here with the name Tunguska. There are seven of them in total.

And there are 4 more rivers, the names of which contain adjectives characterizing them: r. Podkamennaya Tunguska, the Upper Tunguska River and two Lower Tunguska Rivers (one of them represents the old name of the Angara River). There are more in southern zone natural region, called Tunguska. also has the same name - “Podkamennaya Tunguska”. The name “Tunguska” is quite popular.

River characteristics

The length of the river is 86 kilometers, the basin area is 30.2 thousand square km. The average daily water consumption is 408 m³. The banks are very swampy, making access to the river very difficult.

Freeze-up occurs here from November to April.

Source and mouth of the river

The Tunguska, flowing through the Lower Amur Lowland, is formed by the confluence of two rivers: Kur and Urmi. From the sources of the Urmi River, the length of the Tunguska is 544 kilometers, and from the sources of the Kur River - 434 kilometers.

A fairly extensive floodplain is formed by the river, on which there are about 2 thousand lakes, making up a total area of ​​about 80 square meters. kilometers

Nutrition

And the Urmi bring the bulk of water to Tunguska. Mostly rain power she has. Within the river catchment area in winter there is usually not much precipitation and spring floods are insignificant.

The bulk of floods occur during the summer monsoons. At 37 kilometers from the mouth, the highest water consumption is 5100 m³ per day, the lowest is 7.3 m³ per day, and the average annual water consumption is 380 cubic meters. m. per day.

Lower Tunguska River

Width of the river Nizhnyaya Tunguska near the village of Tura reaches 390 meters. The Kochechum River, when it flows into it, splits into two branches with a width of 340 and 380 meters, respectively. A large island appeared between them. Just below the confluence of these two rivers, the width of the Lower Tunguska reaches 520 meters.

This river is very rich in fish. In total, about two dozen species are found here. The most numerous of them are taimen, perch, whitefish, grayling, peled, pike and roach. The fish here are very large; for example, you can catch pike weighing about 12 kilograms and taimen weighing more than 10 kilograms.

The nature of the river flow

The Tunguska (river) is a fast, powerful and deep body of water. Its sandy and gravelly cliffs alternate with rocky shores. The river bottom is rocky, covered with coarse sand and gravel. The water in it and in its tributaries is clean with a gray-greenish tint.

The thickness of the ice in January reaches one meter, and freeze-up begins in early October. When ice drifts, starting in May, huge jams of ice blocks appear on the river, resulting in flooding of the floodplain and the territory of some villages.

A tributary of the Lower Tunguska is a river with a very interesting and cute name Eika. There are several more tributaries with no less interesting names: Nepa, Northern, Ilimpeya, Teteya, Uchami, Vivi and many others. etc.

Tura and its inhabitants

The dense forests of the northern taiga surround a village called Tura. Roads leading to it are accessible only to off-road vehicles. From other cities and regions you can only get here by helicopter or plane from Krasnoyarsk and some cities in the region. You can get to the village by motor boat or speedboat from the Yenisei, going up the water to Nizhnyaya Tunguska.

Tura is the capital of Evenkia. Tourists often stop there when heading north, where the Putora Plateau, which interests everyone, is located, as well as the place where the famous Tunguska meteorite fell.

Tunguska is a river favored by numerous rafting tourists. Best period for such extreme look The month of holiday here is August. Moreover, all travelers enjoy fishing along the way, which is a great pleasure in these places.

Life in the village of Tura largely depends on the rivers flowing nearby. Nizhnyaya Tunguska carries many cargoes for residents of local coastal villages and towns. Residents of the region’s settlements also move along the river.
The most popular pastime among the residents of Tura is fishing and picking berries in summer time. They prepare fish both for themselves and for sale.

There are no industrial enterprises near the banks of the river, which, as a rule, discharge industrial wastewater, which explains the presence of a huge amount of fish in the river, and large ones at that.

Economic importance

The Tunguska is a river that is navigable along almost its entire length. Large volumes of timber used to be rafted along its waters until the 1990s.

There are no road bridges across Tunguska, but there is a railway bridge along the line - “Komsomolsk-on-Amur - Volochaevka-2”.

Tunguska, as noted above, is very rich in fish. In autumn, chum salmon go there to spawn.

Conclusion

Not only are the waters of the river rich in living creatures, but the vegetation along the banks is also no less diverse and magnificent. Along the entire length of the river, the banks are overgrown with untrodden dense forests of coniferous trees. Pines, larches, spruces and Siberian cedars. You can also find alder with birch, as well as rowan with bird cherry. The region is also rich in a variety of delicious and healthy berries: black and red currants, lingonberries, cranberries, cloudberries and blueberries.

In conclusion, I would like to note that it is the Lower Tunguska that is called the famous Gloomy River: that is how it was called by the writer in his famous novel of the same name.