Cleaning weapons: how to do it correctly. Modern methods for cleaning rifle barrels The weapon is “soaked”, let’s start cleaning

Leaving aside debates about the correctness of cleaning a rifled barrel, its necessity in general and the quality of the approach to this process, I will simply describe the entire cleaning process as I do it myself. Surely this article will be a good help for novice users rifled weapons, perhaps experienced shooters will find some new and interesting moments for themselves. Of course, there are also critics who have a diametrically opposite opinion on the need for high-quality cleaning of a rifled barrel and make do with an ordinary “spindle” to maintain their carbine.

Of course, immediately at the beginning of the process, 3 main questions arise:

1. What are we cleaning?

2. What do we clean with?

3. Why do we clean?

So what are we cleaning?

The firing process leaves behind on the inner surface of the barrel carbon compounds and other combustion residues of the primer composition and gunpowder in the form of soot, traces of bullet casings smeared with a thin film, all this is superimposed layer on layer, forming an aggressive layer cake. The more shots fired, the more layers of the cake we get. Of course, depending on the quality of the rifled barrel installed by the manufacturer, and whether or not the new barrel was prepared for use (polishing, fire running), the amount of contamination can vary greatly. Often, after a couple of shots, there is more dirt in a barrel that has not been prepared for use than in a prepared barrel after five or six shots. But in any case, we get multi-layered, aggressive contamination, which must be completely removed from the barrel.

What do we clean with?

This is very important question! When buying an expensive rifled carbine, spare no expense on good chemicals, high-quality tools and accessories (cleaning rods, brushes, visers, inserts). Gone are the days when gun stores had two types of oil available for gun care: alkaline and neutral. Today you will find a wide range of chemicals, consumables and tools for high-quality care of your weapons, and qualified sellers will always advise and help in choosing the necessary materials.

My rifle care kit.

Let's start with the main cleaning tool - the cleaning rod. Ramrod must necessarily correspond to the caliber of your barrel, be solid (not prefabricated) and rigid enough to avoid deflection in the barrel bore, and, accordingly, friction of the cleaning rod on the rifling fields, have a protective coating that prevents direct contact of the steel rod of the cleaning rod with the inner surface of the barrel. Also, another important condition for a high-quality cleaning rod is the presence of bearings in the handle, which allow the cleaning rod rod to rotate freely and easily when the patch or brush moves along the rifling of the barrel.

In my use I had several cleaning rods from different manufacturers, settled on cleaning rods and replacement attachments for them from an American manufacturer "Dewey". Of course, professional athletes use more expensive cleaning rods, and even individual “custom” versions, but a cleaning rod from the specified manufacturer will be quite sufficient for both an ordinary hunter and a shooter at the shooting range. large number time.

Various attachments are included with the cleaning rod:

Ruffs : There must be several for the required caliber: nylon, brass, nylon on an aluminum base (for application and cleaning with solvents). Never use steel brushes when cleaning your weapon.

Vishers : there should be several under different types patches and methods of use.

Pugs: for applying preservative oil.

Aluminum brushes and patch holders for solvents.

Cleaning insert .

To clean the Blaser barrel, which is removed from the stock and has free access to the breech, I do not use an insert; it is easy for me to control the position of the cleaning rod relative to the geometry of the barrel without an insert. In all other cases, I recommend using an insert; it will allow you not to worry about contact of the cleaning rod with the bullet entrance during manipulation. With the insert, it is convenient to apply various chemicals to brushes and patches through the solvent port, avoiding getting into the internal mechanisms of the weapon and on its stock. Overall, the benefits of insertion are plentiful.

Patches.

I use different ones. I definitely recommend felt patches-tampons like VFG or their domestic analogues. They are produced for all kinds of calibers, and are very convenient for cleaning carbon deposits, applying chemicals, and polishing the barrel with pastes. In general, having tried it once, I can’t imagine my cleaning kit without them. Patches made from pressed cotton pads from women's toiletries are quite good and very cheap. Having spent very little time, you can choose the required size for your caliber and cut any quantity with scissors. Such patches are well suited both for removing carbon deposits and for finishing wiping with preservative oil. I also use standard cotton patches, which are mainly used to control the removal of copper plating. I pass such a patch along the trunk after soaking with solvent; the amount of oxidized copper in the form of blue is clearly reflected on the wide surface of the patch.

Chemistry.

Several types are required, each of which is intended for a specific operation.

I use:

Powder soot solvents: WD-40 and penetrating composition Kano Kroil.

More powerful solvents (also removing copper): HoppeS-9 And Eliminator.

Copper Solvents: SweetS-7.62, Robla Solo Mil.

Cleaning and polishing pastes (necessary for polishing a new barrel and when the barrel is heavily soiled): J-B pastes.

Neutral preservative compositions: Ballistol, Silicone Grease.

Weapon machine .

I use a homemade powerful, tough one. It was possible to build this device, which allowed both to clean any weapon in assembled or disassembled form, and to use it as a sighting machine.

The HandMade machine was designed for zeroing rifled weapons and turned out to be universal.

The machine allows you to clean the weapon as if it were assembled (most bolt-on carbines)

The same goes for disassembled parts, for example the barrel of a Blaser carbine or the barrel of a smoothbore weapon.

In no case am I forcing everyone to follow my path; it will be quite enough to have a machine of this type, which is available in weapons stores in various configurations.

And finally, we come to the third question. Why do we clean?

As I wrote above, in the process of firing, and even more so several times, a layer cake of aggressive compounds appears on the surface of the barrel. The thing is that the combustion products of gunpowder and primer composition have an acidic environment, which in turn has a detrimental effect on the surface of the barrel, causing corrosion. By high-quality cleaning using all the materials, tools and chemicals listed above, we disassemble (clean) this entire pie layer by layer and our goal is to disassemble the pie completely, freeing the barrel metal from the aggressive components left behind by shooting.

Well, now, step by step, leaving all the theoretical aspects above, we will consider the entire process of cleaning a rifled barrel.

Let's clean the barrel Blaser caliber 243Win. 15 shots were fired from the barrel with a cartridge containing a bullet Lapua Scenar.

It is convenient for me to clean the Blaser barrel separated from the stock and with the optical sight removed.

I clamp the barrel at a slight downward angle with the muzzle to allow the chemical to drain. I soak the entire inner surface of the barrel with a fairly large amount of WD-40, also passing it several times to distribute the solvent with a nylon brush, and leave it for 10-12 minutes.

We screw the visher and patch onto the cleaning rod and pass along the barrel until the patch comes out of the barrel. The first couple of patches are the dirtiest, and it is not advisable to return the dirt and rub it along the trunk. With the remaining patches we make several reciprocating movements; the limit before the patch leaves the barrel is a mark made of electrical tape on the ramrod axis.

To control the position of the patch inside the barrel, place a note on the cleaning rod.

We clean until the outgoing patches have the original white look, in my case it turned out to be 10 patches for the first stage of cleaning.

Patches after the first stage of cleaning.

At this point, many opponents of “major cleaning shamanism” would have finished the whole process, because the last patch was almost snow-white, which means, in their opinion, the trunk is clean.

Well, we will continue. Having removed the carbon deposits, and even then not all of them, because it still remains under the layers of copper, we will begin to soak the dirt using a penetrating composition Kano Kroil.

I think it's the best remedy today for cleaning weapons. Possessing high penetrating ability, Kroil swells the resulting dirt film, which facilitates its further removal with patches.

We apply Kroil using a brass brush, passing several movements along the entire inner surface until the brush completely exits the muzzle. Under no circumstances should you do reverse movement a cleaning rod with a brass brush, without pushing it completely out of the barrel, otherwise the antennae of the brush will break and the brush will not last long. Just as in the first stage, we leave the barrel alone for 10-12 minutes to soak. After a while, again the visher and clean patches, and what we see: it seems that the trunk has already been cleaned until the patches are snow-white, but after a little soaking with Kroil, the first patch is no different from the first patch of a dirty trunk. At the second stage, 8 patches were spent until white came out.

Patches after the second stage of cleaning.

For soaking with solvents we use an aluminum patch holder.

This product dissolves carbon deposits well and actively oxidizes deposited copper. We pass the moistened patch along the trunk a couple of times and leave it now for 15-20 minutes for the composition to actively work with the contamination. Now, after time has elapsed, on a patch driven through the barrel, we see the remains of gunpowder residue and a layer of copper that begins to oxidize after the layer of carbon deposits (a slight blue tint can be seen on the dirty patch). After the third soaking, 3 patches were enough to get it clean, due to the fact that the bulk of the dirt had already been removed.

When soaking with solvents, it is imperative not to allow the composition to leak onto the outer surface of the barrel, since with prolonged exposure the solvent eats up the bluing.

Next we clean with felt patches soaked in HoppeS-9. The felt patch runs more tightly along the barrel, efficiently cleaning the rifling and corners of the combat edges. With each new patch soaked in HoppeS-9, I make up to 10 reciprocating movements over the entire surface of the barrel, without the patch leaving the muzzle. It took 8 patches or 80 passes along the barrel until the white patch came out. That's how much dirt still remained in the seemingly clean trunk.

Patches after cleaning with HoppeS-9 solvent.

Once every 50-60 shots, I additionally clean the barrel using a “fine abrasive” paste J-B blue. The paste, due to its abrasiveness, helps to clean off carbon particles pressed into the metal of the barrel and cannot be cleaned with solvents. You should not overuse cleaning pastes, especially on a barrel that has already been polished and previously run-in, but 10-15 passes of a felt patch lubricated with paste, at intervals of 50-60 shots, will not harm the barrel. And here we again see dirt removed by patches after passes with paste.

After a clean patch appears, we can confidently say that we have cleaned the barrel, only we have not cleaned it of all the components of the layer cake, and this is easy to check. We drive a clean patch into the barrel not reaching the muzzle 0.5-1 cm and hold it up to the light, moving it towards the table lamp, we see layers of copper on the margins and in the rifling.

Traces of copper on the margins and in the rifling.

I use it to remove copper Eliminator or Robla Solo Mil, for which I generously moisten the felt patch in the specified solvent, make several passes along the trunk and leave for 15-20 minutes for the drug to act.

After the time has passed, I run a cotton patch, which clearly shows the amount of copper removed from the barrel; depending on the number of shots, from 1 to 5 soakings are required until complete removal copper

Cotton patches with traces of copper oxide.

I carry out a control soaking with the most aggressive composition towards copper. SweetS-7.62. I do not recommend leaving it in the barrel for more than 15 minutes. Last soaking with SweetS-7.62 enough to completely remove copper from the barrel.

Now, in order to remove the remnants of aggressive solvents from the bore, we again use penetrating Kano Kroil. Having moistened generously several times, we go through the patch, and then another dry patch.

We clean the chamber with reciprocating, circular movements, using a short cleaning rod with a suitable brush and a flannel cloth wrapped around it.

That's it, the barrel is cleaned to zero, that is, perfectly clean. Depending on whether you plan to use the carbine in the near future or not, I leave the barrel dry or for long-term storage I use a pug with preservative oil. Ballistol.

Patches after all stages of cleaning.

Cleaning the barrel after 15 shots required very few consumables and quite small quantity time. Of course, the main time interval is spent on soaking with solvents and, as a rule, there are other activities during these intervals.

I would also like to warn novice users of rifled weapons, this cleaning “to zero” with such a small consumption of materials and time becomes possible only after proper preparation barrel for operation, that is, the specified Blaser barrel has gone through a full cycle before use.

Cleaning the shutter.

We wipe the outer surface of the barrel with preservative oil.

We collect. The carbine is ready for further use.

I would also like to add about the need to have such a small set for people traveling with their own weapons. Be it long hunts or rafting. Create such a kit for yourself and you can always service your weapon outside the home.

My traveling kit for 20 and 308 caliber combo guns.

Let your carbine serve you for a long time and please you with excellent results both when shooting at targets and during real hunting.

Alexey Suvorov

Let's assume that before the very first shot the barrel bore is absolutely clean - there is no dust, no lubricating oil residue, no old dirt. In this case, the first layer of new contamination will be the trace from the casing of the first bullet, which will pass through the bore when firing.

Modern rifle bullet casings are made from the most different material. Next, we will look in detail at the types of contaminants left by each specific jacket material, but for now we will focus on the fact that all bullet jacket materials, without exception, leave a mark in the barrel. This mark is a heterogeneous film that adheres tightly to the surface of the bore. The next bullet will leave a film on top of the film from the first bullet; and the more times you fire your weapon, the more extensive and thicker this cumulative film of bullet casing becomes.

The matter is aggravated by the fact that the material of bullet casings is not the only factor determining the contamination of the barrel bore, and not even the main one. The greatest influence - and the greatest harm - is caused by the gaseous combustion products of the powder charge and primer composition. Powder gases develop enormous pressure when fired; Thanks to (although it is ungodly to thank them for this) this pressure, gaseous combustion products are able to penetrate into the crystalline structure of the barrel steel and accumulate there. And since powder gases and, especially, combustion products of the capsule composition are aggressive chemical exposure on the metal of the barrel, this effect is the most deplorable for the barrel.

Solid combustion residues of the powder charge and primer composition settle on the surface of the barrel bore. Since there is already a film left by the bullet casing, the shooting results in the formation of something that looks like a layer cake - namely, a dense multi-layer film of aggressive dirt.

Should we be afraid of this dirt?

There is a fairly large community of shooters (mainly made up of hunters who shoot from long-barreled rifles not too often - only during the hunting season - and quite a few), which do not bother with cleaning at all. In this environment, it is generally accepted that pollution does not harm the trunks at all. And it is considered especially chic not to clean a barrel that has military origin. I myself have so often heard statements like “I don’t clean my SKS (SVT/Tiger/Vepr/Saiga/three-line, etc.) at all - why?” that it now causes an allergic reaction in me.

In fact - and this should be learned by heart - gunshot contamination is harmful to all rifle barrels without exception, regardless of the coating or lack of coating of the bore, the type of barrel steel, the celebrity of the manufacturer and the cost of the weapon. But there is no need to be afraid of this dirt. Why? Because now we will learn to fight it.

To effectively combat rifle barrel contamination, you will need some tools.

First of all, this is a ramrod. A cleaning rod is the cornerstone of proper cleaning of a rifle barrel, since the design of the cleaning rod determines not only whether your rifle will be properly cleaned. A bad cleaning rod will not damage the bore for long; if you want to avoid this, then you need a one-piece cleaning rod - in the form of a non-separable metal rod in a plastic shell - and as rigid as possible. The best rifle cleaning rods fully comply with the concept of an “ideally rigid rod” used in theoretical mechanics - there is no bending, and the force is transmitted only in the axial direction.

Of course, you can use composite cleaning rods or solid ones, but made of polymer materials. However, composite cleaning rods, even those coated with plastic, can scratch the edges of the rifling in areas where the individual links meet; a similar phenomenon can occur when using solid, but flexible, polymer cleaning rods. Since we agreed to love our guns, it should be understood that a rifle cleaning rod should not be flexible. This is not a spinning rod, after all.

The cleaning rod must also be long enough - we should not forget that a rifle, in addition to the regulated length of the barrel with chamber, usually also has a receiver. Plus, sometimes it's useful to be able to swing. I myself use a cleaning rod with a working length of 44 inches (with a rifle barrel length with a chamber of 26 inches) and do not experience any inconvenience when cleaning - on the contrary, it is just a pleasure.

An equally important tool is the bushing (in English-speaking countries it is called bore guide). I would even say that the bushing and cleaning rod share first place in importance.

The sleeve has a dual function. Firstly, it really serves to guide the movement of the ramrod - or rather, to prevent the ramrod rod from touching (and thus possible damage) the rifling in the area of the bullet entry of the barrel. This is very important, since the accuracy of the weapon directly depends on the condition of the rifling in the area of the bullet entrance. Second, a bushing that fits tightly into the rifle's chamber prevents cleaning chemicals and dissolved dirt from getting anywhere other than the rifle's bore. Agree, there is no point in spreading the dirt removed from the bore all over the weapon.

The remaining tools are a variety of attachments. All attachments can be divided into two main types: brushes and wipers (also known as “vischers”).

The purpose and principle of operation of brushes is simple and clear - they are needed for mechanical impact on a dense film of contamination. There are metal brushes (usually brass or bronze) and polymer.

Of course, you won’t be able to remove dirt with just a brush, just as you won’t be able to eat a bowl of soup with a fork - that’s what wipes are for.

And the rack (gun vise or gun cradle) closes the group of necessary instrumentation. It is designed to secure your rifle (or a separate barrel with receiver) during cleaning. There are specialized racks; There are racks integrated into folding tool boxes. In addition, you can make the stand yourself - it’s not that difficult. In any case, a stand is necessary - at least even for the convenience of the shooter himself.

In addition to tools, it makes sense to describe consumables. The most common of them (and at the same time, perhaps the simplest and most convenient) are fabric patches (from the English Patch - shred, shred). You can make them yourself by cutting a piece of fabric with scissors into squares of the desired size, or you can buy ready-made ones; but homemade patches are better for cleaning because you can, by adjusting the size of the patch you cut, adjust the tightness of its passage through the barrel, while factory-made patches in the package are usually the same size. It is best to make patches from fabric white- dirt is more noticeable on it, - and thick and soft enough for the patch to completely fill the cross-section of the barrel bore. Some time ago I myself solved the problem with patches on a grand scale, having bought about thirty meters of white flannel.

IN lately consumables produced by VFG have become very famous - in the form of felt cylinders screwed onto a special wipe (they are popularly called “VFG patches”, although this is incorrect - these cylinders do not at all look like shreds). These cylinders are indeed very convenient - and in some procedures they are generally irreplaceable - however, they are not convenient for everything, and cannot completely replace fabric patches. Therefore, it would be most reasonable to use both patches and cylinders - the procedure will be described below.

Now is the time to move on to a description of the chemicals used for cleaning.

All necessary weapons chemicals can be divided into three categories based on their operating principle. Firstly, these are means for dissolving and neutralizing powder deposits. Secondly, these are products for removing traces of bullet casing material - I deliberately do not say “copper”, since such products, as a rule, can also dissolve traces of lead and zinc. There are also universal products that simultaneously dissolve both carbon deposits and traces of metals, but their effect, as a rule, is somewhat weaker.

The third category includes cleaning pastes - an approximate analogue of cosmetic scrubs. As a rule, such pastes have an exclusively mechanical principle of action, but there are also pastes with a complex anti-copper-mechanical effect. Unlike solvents, pastes perfectly clean even those barrels from which bullets with coatings were fired - such as molybdenum disulfide (moly-coated) or Teflon-based coatings, which are not removed by conventional chemistry.

And finally, the fourth category consists of penetration and lubricating oils. The task of oils is not only and not so much lubrication itself. It is much more important to neutralize the remnants of cleaning chemicals, which in themselves - especially products from the second category - are very aggressive. Such oils must have high fluidity and penetration in order to neutralize aggressive substances wherever possible; that is why they are, in fact, called penetration ones (from the English Penetrate - to penetrate inside, to pierce). Moreover, these oils are also excellent for lubrication.

It should be noted that in the most extreme cases - for example, when you are far from civilization and there are simply no suitable means at hand - penetration oil can also be used to neutralize powder deposits. Of course, it won’t work nearly as effectively as a specialized carbon remover, but it’s still better than not cleaning at all.

Very often questions arise: is it possible to clean weapons with kerosene or its derivatives, like WD-40?

I will answer this evasively, because I know: many people clean only with WD-40, resolutely sweeping aside all advice and ridiculing supporters of specialized gun cleaning products. Yes, you can clean your gun with WD-40. You can also clean your weapon using cucumber pickle or stale Zhigulevsky beer - and just try to say that I’m wrong. Can. But it's not necessary. Trust me.

Now it's time to reward you for your patience and indulgence in my tediousness. Let's move on to cleaning.

First of all, stock up on everything you need. You already know that you need a stand, cleaning rod and bushing. Additionally, you will need one bronze brush, one plastic brush, one brush wiper for fabric patches, one wiper adapter for VFG felt cylinders, one piece of flannel, one handful of VFG cylinders, one pack of cotton swabs for cleaning ears, one roll paper towels or 65 meters of toilet paper, and one nail file. Don't forget also two arms and one head.

We will use only the chemicals that are on sale in Kyiv weapons stores. We will need one can of Forrest Foam, one can of Hoppe's #9 Nitro Powder Solvent, one can of Robla Solo Mil, one can of Cleaning Paste J-B Bore Cleaner and one bottle of Klever Ballistol spray. Instead of Robla and Hoppe #9, you can successfully use Shooter’s Choice MC #7 Firearms Bore Cleaning Solvent - this product dissolves both carbon deposits and traces of metal equally well.

So. Let's say you've just shot at the shooting range (or shot a prize-winning elk while hunting, drank on the blood and took photos) and intend to go home (or go to the base to ferment). Of course, the first thing you think about is your weapon (assuming this is true).

If you shot only a few times, and you plan to start the main cleaning of the weapon the next day - as is usually the case on group hunts - there is no point in pouring chemicals into the barrel; it will do more harm than good. It is enough to remove the bolt and drive a loose patch through the barrel, generously moistened with Ballistol. This oil has a slight alkaline effect, so it is able to somehow neutralize powder deposits - which, in fact, is what we need.

In the case when the shooting is large - fifteen shots or more - and the journey home will take no more than an hour or two, it makes sense not to limit yourself to Ballistol. If you were shooting metal jacketed bullets, blow Forrest foam into the still hot barrel and leave it like that. Due to the increased temperature, the effect of the foam will increase, while there will be no danger to the trunk - Forrest foam is a very delicate product.

At home, mount the weapon in the rack and insert the bushing into the receiver.

If the bore was lubricated with Ballistol, then it must be thoroughly wiped off - otherwise Ballistol will weaken the effect of the solvents; the same thing, but for a different reason, should be done with foam. It is best to do the first wiping with a VFG cylinder - there is still a lot of dirt in the barrel (after the foam there is, naturally, much less dirt than after Ballistol, but Forrest causes the dirt to swell in some way), and a regular patch will not help much. Pass a couple more cylinders through the barrel.

Now it's the turn of the pipe cleaners. Take a plastic brush and use a nail file to apply some JB paste to it (the paste should only cover middle part brush). Insert a cleaning rod with a brush into the barrel and move it back and forth several times (at the exit from the barrel, the brush should completely leave the muzzle). Now remove the brush - you won't need it anymore - and wipe the cleaning rod clean of dirt. Remove the spent paste mixed with dirt from the bore completely - first in cylinders, then in patches.

Now your trunk is cleaned of the main dirt; however, the most disgusting and complex dirt remained in it. I'm talking about soot that has eaten into the pores of the metal of the barrel due to the monstrous pressure developed during the shot. The complexity of this contamination is that it is hidden under a thin film of metal left by bullet casings - the very first metal film, which cannot be completely removed using a non-abrasive paste.

Solvents will help us in the fight against this film (in fact, Forrest foam itself is such a solvent, but in this case we need something more serious). Run several patches through the barrel, generously moistened with Robla or Shooters Choice, and leave the barrel alone for about half an hour (but no more, since these products containing ammonia compounds are quite aggressive).

After half an hour, wipe the barrel dry with patches. Apply a little paste to the side of the VFG cylinder using a nail file - just a little bit. Pass this cylinder back and forth along the barrel a dozen times - making sure, however, that the cylinder does not extend beyond the muzzle. This procedure will help clean off any remaining metal film that has not been completely dissolved by the chemical.

Now you need to neutralize the remaining chemicals with Ballistol. After letting the Ballistol run for half an hour or so, you need to wipe the barrel clean and dry using patches (if three patches in a row come out as clean as what came in, then you've done your job).

Now that there are no solvents left in the bore, you can use a bronze brush (otherwise it would be successfully dissolved by chemicals). A bronze brush is not needed to destroy dense dirt - we have successfully overcome it with the combined action of a plastic brush, felt, paste and chemicals. Due to its rigidity, a bronze brush is needed to destroy dirt in hard-to-reach areas of the barrel, where it is almost impossible to “get it” with more delicate means: we are talking about the angles of the rifling. A few - a dozen or a little more - movements back and forth are enough; then you need to pass several patches moistened with solvent. Then you need to wipe the barrel clean with dry cloth patches until they no longer come out dirty. Voila - your trunk is thoroughly cleaned.

It is convenient to clean the remaining components of your weapon using cotton swabs moistened with Ballistol, and the same patches used as napkins. Compared to cleaning the bore, cleaning the remaining components of the weapon does not present any difficulty, so I will not dwell on it in detail.

There is some subtlety in cleaning the barrel if you shot coated bullets - like molybdenum disulfide or some types of Teflon.

The difficulty here is that traces of these coatings do not dissolve by ordinary means. You will have to use exclusively mechanical means - brushes and paste; Therefore, when buying such cartridges, be patient.

Long life to you and your weapon.

Andrey Rudoy

Do you remember that Leskov’s Lefty asked him to tell the Tsar Father that the soldiers should not clean their guns with crushed bricks? Look, when did people in Rus' think about the abrasive properties of ceramics and the correct technologies for cleaning weapons!

Seriously, not so long ago, in remote places, trunks were simply “soaked” with boiling water, then chased away with a brush and wiped dry. But do not rush to accuse your ancestors of barbarism. The same operation is carried out for modern pneumatics for collective use in very advanced cases, when the barrel is so leaded that no chemicals or mechanical devices can handle it. Physics comes to the rescue: due to the difference in thermal expansion coefficients, lead flakes safely peel off from the steel.

I think that among the readers there are no enthusiasts of a bubbling kettle or, God forbid, an electric drill as a drive for a brush. And yet, how to properly clean a weapon and with what?

Professionals and amateurs: the difference in approaches

The author belongs to the group of “moderates” who believe that excessive enthusiasm for cleaning and lubrication, especially without a critical understanding of the essence of the processes, also does not lead to good. This is mainly due to long-standing experience, when shooters had at their disposal kerosene (then the super product WD-40), an alkaline compound and neutral oil. Weapons maintained with the help of these components have served faithfully and continue to serve for many decades, failing for reasons not related to the chemistry used and the frequency of hygiene procedures. I note, however, that all this applies to serial domestic shotguns, albeit high-quality ones, as well as to civilian versions of army rifles - OP-SKS, "Tiger", numerous "Kalashoids".

With the advent of specialized chemicals, especially aerosol ones, on our shelves, everything has become even simpler. For example, the same legendary “Ballistol” allows you, after a day full of shooting and rain, to simply wipe all the iron, fill it inside and out with this spray and not worry about anything else until you get home, where you can clean it in a more comfortable environment.

And finally, “maximalists”, most often fans of high-precision shooting. People of this type practice thoroughness in everything. As a rule, they prefer a table covered with newspapers, albeit a compact one, but still a center for cleaning. For example, such as in the photo, the extremely inexpensive “Portable Maintenance Center”.

And it’s hard to disagree with them. Look how thoughtfully and conveniently everything is done.

When you read the recommendations of adherents of “high precision”, you are amazed at the perseverance and scrupulousness, the purely scientific approach to removing various types of contaminants. Can you imagine what kind of practical experience and surgical precision of movements you need to have in order to remove copper plating on match barrels using abrasive pastes!? Their arsenal of techniques includes, for example, the selection of chemicals for cleaning different AREAS of the chamber, methods that provide for special cleaning after EVERY shot, the use of substances that are neutral to some barrels, but literally dissolve the metal of others. In a word, if you have a burning desire to become a real BR shooter, you shouldn’t engage in guerrilla warfare - come out of the forest to people and join a team of like-minded professionals. Moreover, there is no “benchrest” without regular competitions.

For the majority of people, all this is somewhere on the other side of good and evil. Therefore, let's be guided by the condition “necessary and sufficient” known from mathematics. Without stopping at the basics of preliminary procedures, such as the need to unload and disassemble the weapon, prepare all the necessary accessories, etc., the entire cleaning process can be divided into three stages.

Stages of cleaning weapons

filling with an alkaline composition (solvent) everything and anything that came into contact or could come into contact during the firing process with the primer, cartridge case, bullet and, of course, powder gases;
actual cleaning;
lubrication and preservation of weapons.

Let's start from the beginning.

For the vast majority of cases and non-exclusive weapons, the already mentioned “Ballistol” or the well-known “Hoppes No. 9".

There are many more modern drugs with similar effects, there are much more effective ones, for example, Shooter’s Choice formulations, but many of them are highly specialized. For example, they can only be used for stainless steel barrels. If you are the owner of such a weapon, which is not too widespread, carefully study the manufacturer’s recommendations.

So, the composition we have chosen is applied to all areas to be cleaned - the barrel bore, the bolt, the mirror (at the smoothbore), the gas outlet parts, the outside of the barrel - 5-6 centimeters from the cut. We leave the entire household to soak for 10-20 minutes.

Let's move on to the actual cleaning. Here we will need tools

Toolkit closely related to weapon features

Ramrod.

Somehow it has long been the custom that for a rifled weapon it must be one-piece, for a smooth-bore weapon it makes no difference, but more often it must be composite. The approach is correct, taking into account the caliber: you never know what can happen in a long tube, the internal diameter of which is less than a centimeter, so the requirements for strength characteristics in the first case are increased.

The cleaning rod material is also different. For a smooth bore, wood and brass are quite suitable; for a rifled bore, only metal, always braided, although bending-resistant and relatively safe stainless steel products are available on sale. Do not use aluminum devices under any circumstances; the oxide covering them has abrasive properties comparable to crushed brick.

One more thing prerequisite for rifled barrels: the cleaning rod itself must rotate freely on a bearing installed in the handle, so that the cleaning devices, when moving back and forth, follow the rifling strictly.

Actually, ideally these options look something like this:

On the left is a cleaning rod for smooth-bore calibers, two-section, length 86 cm, the set includes a classic SL visher attachment. On the right is a cleaning rod for rifled weapons. 35 cal., 9 mm and above, single-section, with bearing, length 91 cm.

Visher and patches.

The chamber and bevel are sacred cows and should be treated as such. Therefore, the movement of the cleaning rod with the wiping material (patch) always goes in one direction - from the breech to the barrel. The insertion itself must be extremely careful, and the contaminated patch must be removed from the visher upon exiting the barrel. It is very convenient to do this with vishers of modern design. Compare: on the left is the classic type, familiar to almost all shooters, on the right is the brass .22/.223 cal.

Agree, it is very convenient to pin a branded or homemade patch on the latter (a square or round piece cotton fabric, selected for the caliber), which at the exit from the barrel will simply fall off and fall into a carefully placed vessel.

Cutting defects will also not add accuracy to a smoothbore gun. And here, willy-nilly, you will have to use a traditional visher, into the slot of which a cloth of suitable size is threaded and loosely wound.

Cleaning guides.

Somewhat ambiguous devices that serve to protect the chamber, the bullet entrance and the cut of the barrel of a rifled weapon.

The photo shows guides .30 ABS3 and .30 C30.

Let's start with the second one, for cutting the trunk. The scope of its application is extremely narrow, mainly for some models, and all because, as we remember, the barrel is cleaned only from treasury to barrel. There are rifles where the manufacturer, as if on purpose, did everything to make access to the breech difficult. But even here it is better not to resort to technology turned 180 degrees.

The guides inserted instead of the bolt, according to authoritative shooters, with rare exceptions do not provide accurate centering of the cleaning rod, since they are made universal for a certain caliber. Meanwhile, each rifle has its own characteristic features. In a word, it’s easier to protect the USM from dripping reagents with a cloth, and center the cleaning rod by eye; the main thing is not to rush or get nervous. Or thoughtfully, again without rushing, choose a guide strictly for your weapon.

Ershik.

In the photo: brass and hard nylon brushes, 30 and 12 gauge, as well as a powder puff, which serves both for lubrication and for removing excess oil.

There are also brushes for cleaning the chamber. As a rule, they come as part of cleaning kits, but they can also be purchased separately, even on a handle.

And one more thing: brushes are used only when dry, otherwise they are immediately covered with abrasive particles and only aggravate the process of destruction of the barrel mirror.

"Lifesaver"

You definitely won't be able to do without this device. Essentially, this is a kind of miniature hybrid of a spatula and a toothpick, carved from wood. It is with them, sometimes with a wrapped rag, that you will clean dirt from hidden places, of which there are plenty in the weapon, or carefully remove the remaining copper from the mirror of the end of the receiver (where the firing pins are).

The weapon is “soaked”, let’s start cleaning

Blessed are the owners of classic break-in shotguns and other kiplaufs, as well as modern semi-automatic rifles. It’s more difficult for the rest - you can’t unfasten the barrel, and here the already mentioned branded cleaning center could be a great help. The basic rule: in a machine or just on a table, the barrel should point down so that all the nasty things do not flow into the weapon’s mechanisms.

So, we put a patch on the visher (twist a rag) and in one leisurely movement we push the cleaning rod forward. We discard the contaminated patch and carefully remove the cleaning rod. We alternate patches with brushes (only on dry trunks). Cleaning the chamber rotational movements, under no circumstances trying to push a special brush into the bullet entrance. If necessary, treat the barrel with the cleaning compound again.

And so on until we achieve results. Professionals carefully evaluate contaminants, using specialized chemistry depending on their types.

For the average shooter, all this is more interesting in theoretical terms. Or when changing ammunition. So that you can say: “This is dirty!” And don't contact him anymore.

Our task is simple: regardless of whether the copper on the patches turns blue or matte remains of polyethylene in the sleeve are found, we must ensure that the cleaning material at the exit does not differ from what was at the entrance. That's it. Depending on the degree of contamination, all procedures can take ten minutes or an hour.

Lubrication and preservation

Finally, the patches emerge from the trunk pristinely clean. And it’s the turn of neutral oil. By and large, we use it to remove not so much dirt as the remnants of cleaning substances, including from metal micropores. Suspicious marks will again appear on the patches. After they disappear, apply a thin layer of neutral oil to the now dry trunk with a lightly lubricated patch, cloth, or powder puff. Or a preservative composition - depending on your goals and objectives. For example, Rust Prevent Corrosion Inhibitor or Elite Hoppe's GO4.

It is highly advisable to repeat the second stage of cleaning (with neutral oil) after three to four days, maximum a week. This is how long, on average, the sweating of contaminant residues from the deepest microcracks continues.

I would like to repeat it again. With the modern variety of weapons, carefully read the manufacturer’s recommendations if you have, say, a stainless or chrome-molybdenum barrel. And select cleaning compounds, especially aggressive ones, strictly in accordance with them. Do not always trust opinions from the Internet; if you read carefully, they often contradict each other. In a word, be careful and careful.

Do you remember that Leskov’s Lefty asked him to tell the Tsar Father that the soldiers should not clean their guns with crushed bricks? Look, when did people in Rus' think about the abrasive properties of ceramics and the correct technologies for cleaning weapons!
Seriously, not so long ago, in remote places, trunks were simply “soaked” with boiling water, then chased away with a brush and wiped dry. But do not rush to accuse your ancestors of barbarism. The same operation is carried out for modern pneumatics for collective use in very advanced cases, when the barrel is so leaded that no chemicals or mechanical devices can handle it. Physics comes to the rescue: due to the difference in thermal expansion coefficients, lead flakes safely peel off from the steel.
I think that among the readers there are no enthusiasts of a bubbling kettle or, God forbid, an electric drill as a drive for a brush.

How to properly clean a weapon

In order to avoid omissions, let’s say right away that there are a lot of legends, myths and opinions in this area of knowledge. The most radical of them: cleaning weapons is harmful. As a rule, it is followed by those who have ruined the barrel or bolt group through incorrect actions, for example, the wrong choice of lubricant. Or - you will laugh - owners of models with extremely difficult disassembly/assembly and access to the breech.
The author belongs to the group of “moderates” who believe that excessive enthusiasm for cleaning and lubrication, especially without a critical understanding of the essence of the processes, also does not lead to good. This is mainly due to long-standing experience, when shooters had kerosene at their disposal (then spray WD-40), alkaline composition and neutral oil. Weapons maintained with the help of these components have served faithfully and continue to serve for many decades, failing for reasons not related to the chemistry used and the frequency of hygiene procedures. I note, however, that all this applies to serial domestic rifles, albeit high-quality ones, as well as to civilian versions of army rifles - OP-SKS, « Tiger", numerous " Kalashoids».
With the advent of specialized chemicals, especially aerosol ones, on our shelves, everything has become even simpler. Let's say the same legendary " Ballistol"allows you, after a day full of shooting and rain, to simply wipe all the iron, fill it inside and out with this spray and not worry about anything else until you get home, where you can clean it in a more comfortable environment.
And finally, “maximalists”, most often fans of high-precision shooting. People of this type practice thoroughness in everything. As a rule, they prefer a table covered with newspapers, albeit a compact one, but still a center for cleaning. For example, like the one in the photo, extremely inexpensive Portable Maintenance Center.

And it’s hard to disagree with them. Look how thoughtfully and conveniently everything is done.
When you read the recommendations of adherents of “high precision”, you are amazed at the perseverance and scrupulousness, the purely scientific approach to removing various types of contaminants. Can you imagine what kind of practical experience and surgical precision of movements you need to have in order to remove copper plating on match barrels using abrasive pastes!? Their arsenal of techniques includes, for example, the selection of chemicals for cleaning different areas of the chamber, methods that provide for special cleaning after each shot, the use of substances that are neutral to some barrels, but literally dissolve the metal of others. In short, if you have a burning desire to become a real shooter" Benchrest“, you shouldn’t engage in partisanship - come out of the forest to people and join a team of like-minded professionals. Moreover, “Benchrest " there is no such thing as regular competitions.
For the majority of people, all this is somewhere on the other side of good and evil. Therefore, let's be guided by the condition “necessary and sufficient” known from mathematics. Without stopping at the basics of preliminary procedures, such as the need to unload and disassemble the weapon, prepare all the necessary accessories, etc.

Basic steps when cleaning weapons

filling with an alkaline composition (solvent) everything and anything that came into contact or could come into contact during the firing process with the primer, cartridge case, bullet and, of course, powder gases;
actual cleaning;
weapon lubrication.

For the vast majority of cases and non-exclusive weapons, the already mentioned “Ballistol” or the well-known “ Hoppes no. 9».

The first one is extremely convenient to use, since it is made in the form of an aerosol, it quite successfully copes with all contaminants, including lead and copper plating, while being absolutely safe. And not only for the wood or plastic of the stock, but also for your hands. Moreover, according to the manufacturer and numerous users, it has a bactericidal and generally beneficial effect on the skin. "Hoppes", on the contrary, is very toxic, so the author does not really like its relatively rare aerosol version. You can grab a dose even in the fresh air. It copes with its direct responsibilities perfectly, perhaps better than Ballistol.
There are still a lot of modern drugs with similar effects, there are much more effective ones, for example, formulations Shooter's Choice, but many of them are highly specialized. For example, they can only be used for stainless steel barrels. If you are the owner of such a weapon, which is not too widespread, carefully study the manufacturer’s recommendations.
So, the composition we have chosen is applied to all areas to be cleaned - the barrel bore, the bolt, the mirror (at the smoothbore), the gas outlet parts, the outside of the barrel - 5-6 centimeters from the cut. We leave the entire household to soak for 10-20 minutes.

Cleaning weapons

Here we will need tools that are closely related to the characteristics of the weapon. Let's look at everything in detail.

1. Cleaning rod

Somehow it has long been the custom that for rifled weapons it must be one-piece, for smooth-bore weapons it makes no difference, but more often it must be composite. The approach is correct, taking into account the caliber: you never know what can happen in a long tube, the internal diameter of which is less than a centimeter, so the requirements for strength characteristics in the first case are increased.
The cleaning rod material is also different. For a smooth bore, wood and brass are quite suitable; for a rifled bore, only metal, always braided, although bending-resistant and relatively safe stainless steel products are available on sale. Do not use aluminum devices under any circumstances; the oxide covering them has abrasive properties comparable to crushed brick.
Another prerequisite for rifled barrels: the ramrod itself must rotate freely on a bearing installed in the handle, so that the cleaning devices, when moving back and forth, follow strictly the rifling.

Actually, ideally these options look something like this:

On the left is a cleaning rod for smooth-bore calibers, two-section, length 86 cm, includes a classic Visher attachment SL. On the right is a cleaning rod for rifled weapons. 35 cal., 9 mm and above, single-section, with bearing, length 91 cm.

2.Visher and patches

The chamber and bevel are sacred cows and must be treated as such. Therefore, the movement of the cleaning rod with the wiping material (patch) always goes in one direction - from the breech to the barrel. The insertion itself must be extremely careful, and the contaminated patch must be removed from the visher upon exiting the barrel. It is very convenient to do this with vishers of modern design.">

Compare: on the left is the classic type, familiar to almost all shooters, on the right is brass .22/.223 cal.

Agree, it is very convenient to pin a branded or homemade patch on the latter (a square or round piece of cotton fabric, selected for the caliber), which, upon exiting the barrel, will simply fall off and fall into a carefully placed container.

It is clear that the reverse movement must be no less careful, so as not to damage the rifling ribs at the barrel cut, even with soft brass. This will lead to loss of accuracy of any rifled weapon, including pneumatic ones.
Cutting defects will also not add accuracy to a smoothbore gun. And here, willy-nilly, you will have to use a traditional visher, into the slot of which a cloth of suitable size is threaded and loosely wound.

Somewhat ambiguous devices that serve to protect the chamber, the bullet entrance and the cut of the barrel of a rifled weapon.

The photo shows guides .30 ABS3 and .30 C30.
Let's start with the second one, for cutting the trunk. The scope of its application is extremely narrow, mainly for some models, and all because, as we remember, the barrel is cleaned only from treasury to barrel. There are rifles where the manufacturer, as if on purpose, did everything to make access to the breech difficult. But even here it is better not to resort to technology turned 180 degrees.

The guides inserted instead of the bolt, according to authoritative shooters, with rare exceptions do not provide accurate centering of the cleaning rod, since they are made universal for a certain caliber. Meanwhile, each rifle has its own characteristic features. In a word, it is easier to protect the USM from dripping reagents with a cloth, and center the cleaning rod by eye; the main thing is not to rush and not to be nervous. Or thoughtfully, again without rushing, choose a guide strictly for your weapon.

4.Brush

There are also a lot of nuances here. In principle, you should remember two things: do not use soft polymer brushes (not to be confused with “puffs”), which generously scatter torn bristles everywhere, and steel brushes for rifled barrels. Hard nylon and copper or brass only. For smooth-stemmed steel, when removing lead and hard carbon deposits, the use of steel mesh devices is quite acceptable.

In the photo: brass and hard nylon brushes, 30 and 12 gauge, as well as a powder puff, which serves both for lubrication and for removing excess oil.
There are also brushes for cleaning the chamber. As a rule, they come as part of cleaning kits, but they can also be purchased separately, even on a handle.

And one more thing important rule: brushes are used only when dry, otherwise they are immediately covered with abrasive particles and only aggravate the process of destruction of the barrel surface.

5. Lifesaver

The final stage of weapon cleaning

Depending on the configuration, we scrub various parts with a stick, sponge, or rag. After the dirt has disappeared, wipe it dry, generously lubricate it with neutral oil, wipe it again and now lubricate it with what is called a thin layer. We drip a little bit into the holes of the smoothbore strikers. It is clear that competition forces manufacturers to move and produce a wide range of solvents and oils. If you want to support them and do everything according to Feng Shui, you can purchase and use lubricants, say, separately for the stem or bolt stops or something else in the same spirit. But, in general, even domestic neutral gun oils are the same “ Golden eagle", are quite functional.

Blessed are the owners of classic break-in shotguns and other kiplaufs, as well as modern semi-automatic rifles. It’s more difficult for the rest - you can’t unfasten the barrel, and here the already mentioned branded cleaning center could be a great help. The basic rule: in a machine or just on a table, the barrel should point down so that all the nasty things do not flow into the weapon’s mechanisms.
So, we put a patch on the visher (twist a rag) and in one leisurely movement we push the cleaning rod forward. We discard the contaminated patch and carefully remove the cleaning rod. We alternate patches with brushes (only on dry trunks). We clean the chamber with rotational movements, under no circumstances trying to push a special brush into the bullet entrance. If necessary, treat the barrel with the cleaning compound again.
And so on until we achieve results. Professionals carefully evaluate contaminants, using specialized chemistry depending on their types.

For the average shooter, all this is more interesting in theoretical terms. Or when changing ammunition. So that you can say: “This is dirty!” And don't contact him anymore.
Our task is simple: regardless of whether the copper on the patches turns blue or matte remains of polyethylene in the sleeve are found, we must ensure that the cleaning material at the exit does not differ from what was at the entrance. That's it. Depending on the degree of contamination, all procedures can take ten minutes or an hour.
Finally, the patches emerge from the trunk pristinely clean. And it’s the turn of neutral oil. By and large, we use it to remove not so much dirt as the remnants of cleaning substances, including from metal micropores. Suspicious marks will again appear on the patches. After they disappear, apply a thin layer of neutral oil to the now dry trunk with a lightly lubricated patch, cloth, or powder puff. Or a preservative composition - depending on your goals and objectives. For example, Rust Prevent Corrosion Inhibitor or Elite Hoppe's GO4.

I would like to repeat it again. With the variety of modern weapons, carefully read the manufacturer’s recommendations if you have, say, a stainless or chrome-molybdenum barrel. And select cleaning compounds, especially aggressive ones, strictly in accordance with them. Do not always trust opinions from the Internet; if you read carefully, they often contradict each other. In a word, be careful and careful.

Best wishes for a great hunt

Saltsov Igor

Gun barrel cleaning device made in the form of a visher, which is a tip with the diameter of the working part, consistent with the caliber of the barrel, with an end section (2) for placement on the ramrod, while the tip is a piston (3), made of an elastically deformable material, rigidly connected to a metal rod (1) passing along the axial line, the piston is made in the form of a body of revolution with annular grooves (4) along the generatrix. The technical result is an expansion of the range of devices for cleaning weapon barrels, providing effective cleaning with minimal labor costs. 1 n.p. f-ly, 1 salary files, 1 drawing

The claimed utility model relates to accessories for cleaning gun bores and can be used to clean gun barrels of smooth-bore and rifled guns from soot, soot, and unburnt particles of gunpowder.

A known machine for cleaning the bore small arms brushes mounted on a rotating eccentric shaft mounted on a frame that moves progressively in the direction of the barrel bore, ensuring movement of cleaning rods over the full length of the barrel (USSR Copyright Certificate 119101, 1958).

Bronze and nylon brushes, which are mounted on cleaning rods, are widely used for manual cleaning of gun barrels from carbon deposits to this day.

A device for cleaning a weapon barrel is also known, containing a rod with a replaceable nozzle, the rod is connected to the piston of a pneumatic cylinder, the cavities of which communicate with a source of compressed air through control equipment and a controlled spool, while the cover of the pneumatic cylinder with a hole for the rod is connected to a centering clamping device for connection with the muzzle of the barrel by means of fastening with side windows made on it for access to the replaceable nozzle when replacing it (Patent RU 2107877, 1998).

Known devices provide automated cleaning of weapon barrels, i.e. can be used on an industrial scale and are not used for cleaning personal weapons. To manually clean the barrel of a personal weapon from carbon deposits, various bronze and nylon brushes, which are installed on cleaning rods, as well as powder puffs, etc., are still widely used. tips.

A device is known for cleaning the inner surface of a gun barrel, which includes a fabric sleeve having a first end, a second end and a wall; and a brush placed inside said sleeve, wherein the bristles of said brush penetrate through said wall of said sleeve. The device may be provided with a flexible cord attached to said fabric sleeve for pulling the cleaning device along the bore. (Utility model patent RU 99136, 2010).

The well-known kit with a flexible snake, oil and solvent is applicable for cleaning personal weapons, however, it is usually used as an auxiliary cleaning method in addition to cleaning the barrel of a weapon using a cleaning rod; it is labor-intensive and not convenient enough.

The closest to the proposed device is Visher Yu.N. Lysakovsky, which is a threaded brass tip with the diameter of the working part, matched with the caliber of the barrels for winding rags (patch), equipped with an end section equipped with a thread for screwing onto a ramrod and a hole for a pin for unscrewing the visher (see “Handbook for a sportsman hunter ", edited by Prof. P.A. Manteifel, Publishing House "Physical Education and Sports", Moscow, Volume 1 section "Care and conservation of hunting weapons", 1955, and "Encyclopedia of hunting weapons" ). Vishers are used as ramrod tips to remove carbon deposits and residual oil from the walls of the bore.

Known tips require a labor-intensive process of cleaning the bore by repeatedly moving the cleaning rod from the breech to the muzzle of the barrel. In this case, with each pass of the ramrod, the patches attached to the visher must be replaced with new ones, and the used ones must be thrown away. Moreover, the brass tip is not deformed, but smoothbore weapon has a slight narrowing in the muzzle. This creates additional difficulties in using the well-known visher. In addition, patches, brushes and brushes are prone to clogging with solid particles.

The task to which the proposed utility model is aimed is to expand the arsenal of devices for cleaning the bore of a weapon.

The technical result is to perform the function of cleaning the bore of a weapon with increased efficiency.

The problem is solved by the fact that the inventive device for cleaning the barrel of a weapon is made in the form of a visher, which is a tip with the diameter of the working part, matched to the caliber of the barrel, with an end section for placement on a ramrod, while the tip is a piston made of elastically deformable material, rigidly connected to a metal rod passing along the axial line, the piston is made in the form of a body of revolution with annular grooves along the generatrix.

The inventive device differs from the known one in that the body of the visher is made of an elastically deformable material, which can be used as elastic polymers, for example, vulcanized isoprene rubber (rubber), silicone, nylon, etc. materials.

The metal rod is made of bronze or brass or stainless steel or similar metals and alloys.

The end section of the metal rod, intended for mounting on the cleaning rod, can be made with threads, flange connections and other similar known detachable connections.

The head section of the visher, opposite the end section intended for attachment to the ramrod, is made soft (elastically deformable), allowing passage of the choke area.

Making the working part from an elastically deformable material, made in the form of a piston with annular grooves, allows for effective final cleaning of the weapon barrel from the breech to the muzzle in one pass, ensuring a tight fit to the walls of the barrel both in the breech and in the muzzle. Existing carbon deposits and other residues to be removed are pushed out of the barrel bore during translational movement due to the tight fit of the elastic surface of the head and annular sections of the piston to the walls of the barrel. A tight fit is ensured by matching the diameter of the piston with the caliber of the barrel and the elastically deformable material of the piston. The head part of the piston and several annular sections of the working surface of the piston, formed by annular grooves, provide in one pass the same effect that is provided with multiple passes of known vishers. At the same time, not only large soot particles are removed, but also fine particles, including rust, as well as cleaning agent residues, copper plating and lead particles. When using known devices (brushes, ruffs, visher with rags, etc. devices), carbon deposits are removed from the barrel channel in stages, remaining in the channel, including due to the shedding of working surfaces from the fibers. This requires repeating cleaning operations many times, replacing brushes, brushes and patches with new ones. Unlike the known ones, the inventive device allows for effective cleaning of carbon deposits from the barrel channel with minimal labor costs, because The working surfaces are not only the piston head, but also the ribs of its annular sections. In addition, the elastic material of the piston cannot damage the inner surface of the bore. The above allows us to conclude that the claimed device provides the claimed technical result, which is in a direct cause-and-effect relationship with the claimed set of essential features.

The inventive device is illustrated in Fig. 1, which shows a general cross-sectional view.

The figure shows a visher having a central rod 1 with an end section 2 intended for ramrod attachments (not shown). The piston body 3 is made of elastically deformable material, rubber is used, is equipped with end grooves 4 and is rigidly connected to the central rod 1.

The inventive device is used as follows. The end part 2 of the visher is placed on the cleaning rod and fixed. First, the barrel of the gun is treated with cleaning agents. To do this, a patch moistened with a cleaning agent is put on the piston 3 of the inventive visher. After use, the patch is removed from piston 3 and discarded. The treatment operation with cleaning agents is carried out once or repeatedly, depending on the cleaning regulations. Next, the claimed visher (without a patch) is inserted with the head part into the bore from the breech side of the gun, slowly pushing it with a ramrod to the muzzle. The central metal rod 1 provides the necessary rigidity, and the head part of the elastically deformable piston body 3, in close contact with the inner surface of the barrel bore, provides mechanical cleaning of carbon deposits, cleaning agent residues and other removable residues, pushing the removable residues separated from the walls towards the exit from the muzzle of the barrel. Particles of the removed residues that did not separate during the passage of the head part of the piston 3 are sequentially in contact with the ribs of the annular parts of the piston body, accumulating in the annular grooves 4, and are pushed out of the barrel bore during a single pass of the visher.

The inventive device makes it possible to expand the range of devices for cleaning weapon barrels and provides effective cleaning with minimal labor costs.

1. A device for cleaning the barrel of a weapon in the form of a visher, representing a tip with the diameter of the working part, consistent with the caliber of the barrel, with an end section for fixation on the ramrod, characterized in that the tip is a piston made of elastically deformable material, rigidly connected to a metal rod , passing along the axial line, the piston is made in the form of a body of revolution with annular grooves along the generatrix.

2. A device according to claim 1, characterized in that elastic polymers are used as an elastically deformable material.