Good steel? Steel 9khf tempering and hardening

9ХФ, 9Х1Ф

steel grade

Type of delivery Forgings – OST 24.013.20–90, OST 24.013.21–85, OST 24.013.04–90. Long products – GOST 5950–2000.

Mass fraction elements, %

Temperature critical points, ºС

Mechanical properties at room temperature

Heat treatment mode

Operation

Cooling

GOST 5950–2000

Not defined

Normalization

Not defined

TFC hardening

TFC hardening

Normalization

Not defined

Normalization

Not defined

1 Hardness of work rolls. 2 Hardness of support rolls. 3 Hardness of bandages.

Purpose. Frame, band, circular saws, knives for cold cutting of metal, trimming dies and punches for cold deburring, cores and others (GOST 5950–2000). Work rolls and support rolls with a diameter of over 800 mm for cold rolling of metal (OST 24.013.20–90). Work rolls of rail and beam, large-section and wire crimping and section mills for hot rolling of metal, subject to intense wear and operating under conditions of minimal or moderate impact loads (OST 24.013.21–85). Work rolls, support rolls and tires of composite support rolls of sheet, crimping and section mills for hot rolling of metal (OST 24.013.04–90).

endurance,

Heat treatment

Impact strength, KCU, J/cm2,

Heat treatment

Technological characteristics

Cooling of forgings manufactured

Type of semi-finished product

Temperature forging interval, ºС

from ingots

from blanks

Section size, mm

Cooling conditions

Section size, mm

Cooling conditions

All sizes

Annealing with recrystallization, two hypothermia, vacation

On air

Blank

Weldability

Machinability

Flock sensitivity

Not applicable for welded structures.

In the annealed state at ≤ 255 HB, σВ = 690 N/mm2 K√ = 0.9 (hard alloy), K√ = 0.6 (high-speed steel)

Sensitive

Tendency to temper brittleness

stalmaximum.ru

Steel 9ХС, description of properties and hardening mode, heat treatment

Steel 9ХС, description of properties and hardening mode, heat treatment

Chemical composition in % steel 9ХС
C	0,85 - 0,95
Si	1,2 - 1,6
Mn	0,3 - 0,6
Ni	up to 0.35
S	up to 0.03
P	up to 0.03
Cr	0,95 - 1,25
Mo	up to 0.2
W	up to 0.2
V	up to 0.15
Ti	up to 0.03
Cu	up to 0.3
Fe	~94

Decoding the steel grade 9ХС: the first number indicates that the steel contains 0.9% carbon, and the letters X and C indicate that this grade contains up to 1.5% chromium and silicon, so it becomes clear that this is alloy steel .

Tools made of steel 9ХС and its heat treatment: broaches are made from high-speed steel and alloy steels of grades Х12М, ХВГ, X, ХГ and 9ХС.

To reduce deformation, broaches are usually subjected to two heat treatments: the first after preliminary machining and the second after final machining.

The hardness of the cutting part of alloy steel broaches is Rc = 61-64, and the front part of the shank is Rc = 35-45.

For all grades of steel, the following rules should be followed when heat treating broaches:

1. Broaches must be suspended during all operations (except for straightening).

2. Final heating of the broaches is carried out in salt baths for small sizes and in shaft furnaces for large ones. In the absence of such and in the use of horizontal furnaces, heating is carried out on refractory supports, while the broaches must be periodically rotated around their axis to ensure uniform heating.

3. Straighten broaches after quenching and tempering in a hot state.

4. After cleaning, straightening should be done while heating with a welding torch to the tempering temperature.

5. When cooling during hardening, move the suspended broach up and down.

Files. For the manufacture of files, 9ХС steel is also used, as well as carbon, alloy and low-carbon steels with subsequent carburization.

For hardening, files are heated in lead and salt baths and in chamber furnaces. To protect the file teeth from decarburization, special coatings are used, which are applied to the cut part of the file. These coatings contain carburizing and binding substances.

The coated files are dried near the oven and carefully, so as not to damage the coating, they are placed on a fireproof stand in the oven. When heating in lead baths, you must pay attention Special attention to thoroughly dry the files and slowly immerse them in the bath to avoid lead splashing out.

Protection against decarbonization by coatings has a number of negative aspects:

1. Grinding the materials that make up the coating and preparing the coating are very labor-intensive operations and require special equipment (mills, runners, etc.).

2. If handled carelessly, the coating may partially crumble and in these places the file teeth will not be protected from decarburization.

A much simpler and guaranteeing remedy against tooth burns is to etch files in an aqueous solution of acids.

The composition of the solution by volume is as follows: sulfuric acid (concentrated) 7%; nitric acid(concentrated) 7%; water 86%.

The files are etched in the solution for 10-15 minutes, then dried near the oven and heated for hardening. When heating, you should adhere to the lower temperature limit.

Alloy steel files are heated in oil; carburized from carbon steel - in water (until completely cooled), and files made from high-carbon steel are cooled in water to 140-180 °, followed by hot straightening and cooling in air. Files at a temperature of 140-180° are well straightened with a wooden hammer or in a special device. In addition, slow cooling of files from a temperature of 140-180° reduces the possibility of cracks.

Only the cut part should be cooled in water, and the shank should be soaked after darkening so that it does not become hardened.

Files of an asymmetrical shape should be bent before hardening in the direction opposite to the one where the concavity is formed, for example, a semicircular file is bent before hardening towards a flat edge. Cemented files are easy to straighten when cold. The files are not tempered, but are cleaned immediately after hardening.

In factories that have the appropriate equipment, files are cleaned using sandblasting machines. In factories where there is no special equipment, cleaning is carried out by etching in a weak solution of sulfuric acid, followed by brushing with wire brushes. After etching, the files are washed in running water, dried and lubricated with mineral oil, emulsol, etc. to protect them from rust.

We can recommend the following method of protecting files from rust: grated whitewash, to which a small amount of soot is mixed, is dissolved in gasoline, and with frequent stirring of the solution, the files are dipped into it. When dried, gasoline quickly evaporates and a layer of light gray paint remains on the files.

If the file shank turns out to be hard, after cleaning it is tempered in a lead bath to a hardness not higher than Rc = 35.

Testing files for tooth sharpness is carried out in the following way: a steel plate having a hardness of at least Rc = 54 is passed flat over the file in the direction from the nose to the shank. The record should stick to the file and have scratches. The file should not show any signs of chipping or denting of the teeth.

Each file should be checked for hardness with a steel plate during straightening or removal from the water. With this control method, defects are detected at the very beginning of their appearance. The presence of cracks is determined by hitting the file on an anvil or metal plate. If there are cracks, the file makes a dull sound.

If in a number of files, especially personal ones, after hardening one side turns out to be soft and the other hard, the reason for the defect should be sought in the high hardness of the lining on which the file is cut, since the teeth become blunt when notching.

For the manufacture of shell and end mills and twist drills, steels 85ХФ, 65Х, 6ХВ2С, ХГ, ХВ5, 9ХС, У8А and У10А are used.

Heating of end mills and drills for hardening is best done in salt baths, and in their absence, in chamber furnaces.

Shell cutters are hardened completely, while in end mills and twist drills only the working part is hardened. The tail part is not subjected to hardening. Tools are tempered from carbon steel at a temperature of 220-260°, and from alloy steel at a temperature of 240-280°. Keep in the oven for 20-60 minutes. Required hardness Rc = 56-58. Drills, the cutting parts of which are sharpened with a file, are released at a temperature of 320-360°. Required hardness Rc = 45-50.

Brief designations:
σв			ε
σ0.05	- elastic limit, MPa		Jк
σ0.2			σben
δ5,δ4,δ10			σ-1
σco.05 and σco.			J-1
ν	- relative shift, %		n
sв			R and ρ
ψ	- relative narrowing, %		E
KCU and KCV			T
sT			l and λ
HB	- Brinell hardness		C
H.V.	- Vickers hardness		pn and r	- density kg/m3
HRCе			A
HRB			σtТ
HSD	- Shore hardness		G

www.artwood.ru

Good steel?

46-rossi-46 12-06-2013 21:18

Greetings to everyone! Please tell me a normal knife will be made from such a saw?

Nice 06/12/2013 21:33 quote: normal knife, what do you mean? djdfy29 06/12/2013 21:39

maybe the comrade is thinking about a katana?

Deman 06/12/2013 21:39

I made it from something similar. The owner of the knife likes it. I have mixed impressions. It rusts and dulls faster than you expect. (I didn’t do chemical oxidation, but in vain). But, on the plus side, even a dull one (it practically doesn’t cut office paper) chews wood like a charm. That's just my opinion based on experience, nothing more.

teppo 12-06-2013 21:46

I made one from a saw like this at one time. A little soft.

nik ol 12-06-2013 21:54

Most likely 9хф or 6хф.

Udod 12-06-2013 22:19

Needs to be reheated. All woodworking tools are not heated too hard, but the steel is good.

kirsan_kaifat 12-06-2013 22:33

9хф with a high probability of 45-49 HRC

teppo 06/12/2013 22:46 quote: It is necessary to reheat. These canvases are thin, reheating is not very convenient. Maybe short wedges.46-rossi-46 06/13/2013 05:39

Thanks everyone!

Va-78 06/13/2013 10:36quote: will a normal knife be made from such a saw? yes. We give the mixing thinner and the angle a little larger. And everything works fine. I don’t agree with the softness - I love the kind of knives that allow me to shape the RK with a velvet file and finish it with a thin stone. With proper honing, it’s OK - even Finnish ones, even kitchen ones. Shyr3000 06/13/2013 12:24

If you call me, I’ll throw in my 5 kopecks: in the photo - a saw for a frame saw, the hardness and steel here were already indicated above 9ХФ, 45-49 HRC. Well, now the main ambush: this saw has already worked quite a bit, it’s been released for a long time, so squeeze it out with even 45 units will be very difficult.... only for re-hardening, and this is dancing with tambourines. I made 4 knives from such a saw, none of them are even suitable for peeling potatoes.

TOPIC Minsk 06/13/2013 12:37

I carried this saw for a hardness tester. Showed 44 units, and not a single one more. I made a machete out of it. But, really, the guy hasn’t been able to pick it up for three months now, so there’s no response yet. And one friend made a couple of knives from such a saw, and at the same time he cut the cuts with a file. For example, I don’t understand such softness for a knife...

steppehunter 13-06-2013 13:45

Isn't it cemented by any chance? (then it makes sense to sharpen on one side to work with the carbon layer)

vlad27k 13-06-2013 14:16

zone hardening will save the father of Russian democracy, there is no need to cement, the composition of the steel is normal

Shyr3000 13-06-2013 14:17quote:Originally posted by steppehunter:is it by any chance not cemented? why the hell are these dances??? if it is possible to carry out cementing, then it is possible to carry out hardening... and 9HF heats up normally 06/13/2013 17:25

Maybe U7A or 6FKh, the steel is not very good, and the fabric is thin, judging by the photo.

Nikolaich72 13-06-2013 17:51quote:Originally posted by nik ol:Most likely 9хф or 6хф.Post number 6.http://guns.allzip.org/topic/97/1162007.htmlquote:Originally posted by Shyr3000:saw This one has already worked a fair amount of work and has been released quite a lot, so it will be very difficult to squeeze even 45 units out of it.... just for re-hardening. I lit a couple of these for myself. To Damascus. When I finish the forge Nikolaich72 06/14/2013 05:51

If you don’t mind, can I insert one of your photos into my topic? I didn’t take a photo of my saws right away, but now they’re all cut up.

46-rossi-46 06/14/2013 06:32quote:Originally posted by Nikolaich72:If you don’t mind, can I insert one of your photos into my topic? I didn’t take a photo of my saws right away, but now they’re all cut. Of course, please. Big Bro 06/14/2013 11:54

The steel is good, but it needs to be reheated; it can be used to make wood cutters.

steppehunter 06/18/2013 22:29

I meant that it could be initially cemented.

sergrussian 27-02-2014 21:08

I made knives from exactly the same saw. Generally excellent for cutting wood, easy to edit and sharpen. Just right for an everyday household knife. Didn’t harden it, didn’t treat it with anything. But they only rust on the road and require little maintenance.

IS90 02/27/2014 21:23

what is the thickness?

alex-wolff 27-02-2014 21:28

people do.

fazadmitrij 27-02-2014 21:33

I made knives from such a saw, I only did zone hardening, you just have to heat it carefully until it turns cherry color and it will definitely crack in oil in water

roman1724 02/27/2014 22:39

Good time. I made it from such a saw too. Didn't heat up. The knives work fine and are easy to edit. They just rust. We need to watch

amsis 27-02-2014 23:43

There are similar saws with soldered teeth, they are so soft and thin, but the metal there is not so great. Some may interfere with them, the hardness there is small, but in the pictures they saw logs for more than one season, so metal - accordingly... IMHO

Big Bro 02/28/2014 06:23quote: I made knives from such a saw, I only did zone hardening, you just have to heat it carefully, somewhere until cherry color and it will definitely crack in oil in water. It should be heated at 780 according to reference books, i.e. this is true. In oil, the hardness is good. The cut on this steel seems soapy to me.

guns.allzip.org

5.8. Quenching and tempering modes

Hardness wood cutting tool working at high cutting speeds should be no lower than HRCе 58.7...59. To obtain such hardness, modes of hardening and tempering of wood-cutting tools have been developed (Table 9).

Table 9

Heat treatment modes for wood cutting tools

			Steel hardening
Tool					rature oh-
		heating, °C
					environment,
Frame saws:
separated tooth
flattened tooth
Circular saws
Band saws:
rib
carpentry
Planer knives
Milling cutters
spiral
screw
Hollow chisels
Milling chains
Turning cutters
Tool

studfiles.net

Steel 95Х18, description of properties and hardening mode, heat treatment

Brief designations:
σв	- temporary tensile strength (tensile strength), MPa		ε	- relative settlement at the appearance of the first crack, %
σ0.05	- elastic limit, MPa		Jк	- ultimate torsional strength, maximum shear stress, MPa
σ0.2	- conditional yield strength, MPa		σben	- ultimate bending strength, MPa
δ5,δ4,δ10	- relative elongation after rupture, %		σ-1	- endurance limit during bending test with a symmetrical loading cycle, MPa
σco.05 and σco.	- compressive yield strength, MPa		J-1	- endurance limit during torsion test with a symmetrical loading cycle, MPa
ν	- relative shift, %		n	- number of loading cycles
sв	- short-term strength limit, MPa		R and ρ	- electrical resistivity, Ohm m
ψ	- relative narrowing, %		E	- normal modulus of elasticity, GPa
KCU and KCV	- impact strength, determined on a sample with concentrators of the types U and V, respectively, J/cm2		T	- temperature at which properties were obtained, degrees
sT	- proportionality limit (yield strength for permanent deformation), MPa		l and λ	- thermal conductivity coefficient (heat capacity of the material), W/(m °C)
HB	- Brinell hardness		C	- specific heat material (range 20o - T), [J/(kg deg)]
H.V.	- Vickers hardness		pn and r	- density kg/m3
HRCе	- Rockwell hardness, scale C		A	- coefficient of thermal (linear) expansion (range 20o - T), 1/°С
HRB	- Rockwell hardness, scale B		σtТ	- long-term strength limit, MPa
HSD	- Shore hardness		G	- modulus of elasticity during torsional shear, GPa

May 27, 2019

May 25, 2019

P.S. As a matter of fact, the Sharpening Blog did not stay away from this event...

May 22, 2019

May 20, 2019

May 17, 2019

May 15, 2019

The St. George Ribbon has nothing to do with the Victory of the Soviet people over the Nazi-German invaders, nothing to do with the awards of the USSR and the soldiers of the Red Army, because it was attached to the Order of St. George, which was officially awarded in the Russian Empire (this award has been revived today in the Russian Federation) . They say that you cannot understand Russia with your mind. I appreciate and respect the desire of the inhabitants of modern Russia to honor the memory of those who fell on the battlefield, to express respect for veterans and gratitude to the people who gave everything for the front, but I do not understand the use of the St. George Ribbon for this, which has a very dubious history during the war, a symbol of Victory in which it is they are trying to force it on us.

The farther from the war, the more lies, fables and distortions of memory. The further away from the war, the more they want to quarrel the peoples of those countries that together achieved Victory. The further we get from the war, the more they try to tell us that it is not the truth that is important, but its interpretation...

Millions innocent victims fascism is not forgotten. They are in the memory of mankind forever. Let us honor the memory of the fallen with a minute of silence. AND kind words gratitude for the lives given to us...

Created 05/08/14, last update - 05/01/18

Sources: argumentua.com, rkrp-rpk.ru, Wikipedia, Google, george-orden

May 01, 2019

Created on 10/10/14, last updated on 05/01/19

P.S. Feedback, comments, opinions, advice are welcome. Criticism that is not supported by a constructive opinion is regarded as an attempt to drag the author into an unnecessary dispute and will be deleted... Brunette:
- And my husband sent me to the Institute for Noble Maidens, and there they taught me to say “prelesno” instead of “don’t drive me away.”

The brunette's prayer:
Lord, I pray you, give me
Wisdom to understand a man.
Love to forgive him, and Patience for his moods.
Because, Lord, if I ask for Strength...
I'll just beat him to death!

A traffic cop stops a brunette, dyed blonde, in a very nice car, hoping to earn more than usual, and diplomatically asks:
- Why do you think I'm standing here?
The brunette, dyed blonde, answers without hesitation:
- I think that at school you are not in the best possible way did what they should have done...

Announcement:
"Brunette, 90-60-90, height 175 cm, length of the inner thigh - 56 cm, shoulder girth - 114 cm, distance between the eyes - 2 cm, hair length - 34 cm. SELLING ROULETTE."

The blonde asks the brunette:
- Do you have a personal life?
- Do not ask! Starts with "P" and ends with "C".
-You have a prince?!

Brunettes are smart, they are able to make a career and earn an apartment and a car. And blondes are stupid, so they just give them as gifts.
***

I'm standing in line at the pharmacy. Ahead of me is a pretty girl, brunette.
A bald grandfather spent half an hour studying the packaging of some medicine,
Finally, he decides to buy it. Everyone breathes a sigh of relief. Queue
brunettes. She hands the pharmacist a pre-prepared amount of money and
so timidly, in a low voice, he says: “Please give me the packaging.”
condoms and Pentalgin for headaches. And after a pause he adds:
- So what to do? I don’t want to, but I have to.

A blonde, a brunette and a redhead are in 3rd grade. Who has bigger breasts?
- The blonde's. She's 18.

So what kind of work actually has the right to be called professional, and what kind of amateur work?

To understand this issue, we must take into account that professional work is usually called work performed by a person for whom it is a profession and the main means of earning money. Whereas the activity of a person for whom it is an interesting and favorite hobby in his free time and not a means of earning money in another profession is usually called amateur.

Profession (from Latin professio) - type labor activity the person who owns the complex special knowledge and practical skills acquired through specialized education, training, or experience that enable one to perform work in a specific line of production for direct and specified compensation. Usually the source of his existence. (Wikipedia)

If you try to connect words professional And professionalism with a profession, there is also a direct connection here - a profession means work for the purpose of earning income and livelihood.

So, if you are a photographer by profession (for example), then your earnings, and therefore the well-being of your family, directly depend on the quality and volume of services provided, so you are interested in supporting and improving the level of your skills and your client base.

It is the profession that allows you to constantly engage in your work, daily practicing old ones and acquiring new skills and experience. Of course, the material incentive also plays an important role here, which forces you to take on sometimes thankless work.

Not always and not everyone’s profession coincides with what they love, but if this happens, then the person puts his soul into his work. Perhaps this can be called a small miracle. But, oddly enough, miracles also occur in our time. In any case, a professional is a person who earns money through his profession. If your profession is a photographer and you work as a photographer, then your photographs are considered professional, but if you are a car mechanic by profession, then your photographs will be amateur.

Professional (from the English profes) is a representative of a profession or any person who earns a living by a specific professional activity. Also, etymology defines a professional as a person of a certain profession who has a reputation as a reliable worker. (Wikipedia)

But every person has a personal hobby that he loves, to which he devotes his free time and invests his money in it. But which does not affect his earnings from his main profession.

Gradually, devoting his free time to his favorite hobby, a person himself acquires new knowledge and experience, which can be comparable to or higher than the level of a professional working in a field similar to his hobby.

Such a person will still remain an amateur because for him it is only favorite hobby, who occupied it free from professional activity time. But if an amateur in his hobby can achieve high level skill and new income will become more important for him than his main job, then he can become a professional by making favorite hobby with his new profession.

An amateur (from the French amateur) is a person who is engaged in a certain activity, training or research, regardless of the source of his income. In other words, this is a person who has sufficient funds and free time to be interested in any subject without using your amateur knowledge and skills to make a living from it. (Wikipedia)

Above I mentioned financial incentives. If for professionals it comes first, then for an amateur it is love that motivates him to do what he does.

If in his work a professional is often limited in time and his choice, then an amateur passionate about his work has to a greater extent freedom, chooses only what is interesting to him, and thanks incl. and in creative (and not only) moments, he can sometimes reach greater heights than a professional.

Most likely, for his activities, an amateur will need good mood, while for a professional it is the material incentive that will force him to work in an orderly and systematic manner, to look for an approach to each client and study his needs, to delve into all the nuances, to calculate the deadlines for completing a task, even to plan another vacation your family, etc...

I often visit technical forums, where there is a discussion not only of any completed work, but also of its technical aspects. And I noticed a long time ago that the words “professional” and “professional work” are found very often, while I cannot remember the use of words such as “amateur” and “amateur work”.

Perhaps there is a psychological factor here, when, being essentially an amateur in some activity, a person cannot call himself that? Or are these cases banal prejudices with a false, without any reflection, judgment about the essence of the issue?

Right now I don't have an answer to these questions. Perhaps next time I return to this conversation, I will have something to write about these issues.

Good luck everyone and have a nice day!

ZAT(Dnepr, Ukraine)

Nice 12-06-2013 21:33

quote: normal knife

In terms of?

djdfy29 12-06-2013 21:39

maybe the comrade is thinking about a katana?

Deman 12-06-2013 21:39

I made it from something similar. The owner of the knife likes it. I have mixed impressions. It rusts and dulls faster than you expect. (I didn’t do chemical oxidation, but in vain). But, on the plus side, even a dull one (it practically doesn’t cut office paper) chews wood like a charm.
That's just my opinion based on experience, nothing more.

teppo 12-06-2013 21:46

I made one from a saw like this at one time. A little soft.

nik ol 12-06-2013 21:54

Most likely 9хф or 6хф.

Udod 12-06-2013 22:19

Needs to be reheated. All woodworking tools are not heated too hard, but the steel is good.

kirsan_kaifat 12-06-2013 22:33

9хф with a high probability of 45-49 HRC

teppo 12-06-2013 22:46

quote: Needs to be reheated.

These canvases are thin and it is not very convenient to reheat them. Just short wedges.

46-rossi-46 13-06-2013 05:39

Thanks everyone!

Va-78 13-06-2013 10:36

quote: Will a normal knife be made from a saw like this?

Yes. We give the mixing thinner and the angle a little larger. And everything works fine.
I don’t agree with the softness - I love the kind of knives that allow me to shape the RK with a velvet file and finish it with a thin stone. With proper honing, it’s OK - even Finnish ones, even kitchen ones.

Shyr3000 13-06-2013 12:24

If you call me, I’ll throw in my 5 cents:
in the photo - a saw for a frame saw, hardness and steel were already indicated above 9ХФ, 45-49 HRC.
Well, now the main ambush: this saw has already worked quite a bit, and has been used up for quite some time, so it will be very difficult to squeeze even 45 units out of it.... only for re-hardening, and this is dancing with tambourines.
I made 4 knives from this saw, none of them are even suitable for peeling potatoes.

TOPIC Minsk 13-06-2013 12:37

I carried this saw for a hardness tester. Showed 44 units, and not a single one more.
I made a machete out of it. But, really, the guy hasn’t been able to pick it up for three months now, so there’s no response yet.
And one friend made a couple of knives from such a saw, and at the same time he cut the cuts with a file. For example, I don’t understand such softness for a knife...

steppehunter 13-06-2013 13:45

Isn't it cemented by any chance? (then it makes sense to sharpen on one side to work with the carbon layer)

vlad27k 13-06-2013 14:16

zone hardening will save the father of Russian democracy, there is no need to cement, the composition of the steel is normal

Shyr3000 13-06-2013 14:17

quote: Originally posted by steppehunter:

Isn't it cemented by any chance?

why the hell are these dances??? if it is possible to carry out cementation, then it is possible to carry out hardening... and 9HF heats up normally

Ulman@Serjan 13-06-2013 17:25

Maybe U7A or 6FKh, the steel is not very good, and the fabric is thin, judging by the photo.

Nikolaich72 13-06-2013 17:51

quote: Originally posted by nik ol:

Most likely 9хф or 6хф.

Post number 6.

quote: Originally posted by Shyr3000:

This saw has already worked a fair amount, and has been used up for quite some time, so it will be very difficult to squeeze even 45 units out of it.... only for re-hardening

I lit a couple of these for myself. To Damascus. When I finish building the forge

Nikolaich72 14-06-2013 05:51

46-rossi-46 14-06-2013 06:32

quote: Originally posted by Nikolaich72:

If you don’t mind, can I insert one of your photos into my topic? I didn’t take a photo of my saws right away, but now they’re all cut up.

Of course, please.

Big Bro 14-06-2013 11:54

The steel is good, but it needs to be reheated; it can be used to make wood cutters.

steppehunter 18-06-2013 22:29

I meant that it could be initially cemented.

sergrussian 27-02-2014 21:08

I made knives from exactly the same saw. Generally excellent for cutting wood, easy to edit and sharpen. Just right for an everyday household knife. Didn’t harden it, didn’t treat it with anything. But they only rust on the road and require little maintenance. Big Bro 28-02-2014 06:23

quote: I made knives from such a saw, I only did zone hardening, you just have to heat it carefully, somewhere until it turns cherry color and it will definitely crack in oil in water

She is glowing with 780 according to reference books, i.e. this is true. In oil, the hardness is good. The cut on this steel seems soapy to me.

Why did Russia fall in love with machetes, khukri, parangs or bolos? After all, in Rus' there was a very good, in no way inferior to cutting and piercing edged weapon - the cleaver. And as a type of cutlasses - short and light broadswords. How to make a cleaver?

Cleaver - Broadsword is not only excellent bladed weapon, but a full-fledged assistant in any campaign - he is sharp as a razor and strong as short sword, reliable and durable if made of the right steel, for example, Soviet-hardened 9HF.

The need for a cleaver-broadsword for a survivalist-autonomous taiga dweller is obvious, so it is unnecessary to list the areas of its application. Separately, it can be noted that the broadsword presented in the video is not a bladed weapon, according to the legislation of the Russian Federation for a separate feature - its “yoke” from the axis of the blade is higher than 15 mm. Sharpening testing in the field revealed everything unique properties steel from which the broadsword is made.

Soviet steel grade 9HF is worthy of special consideration.

Modern steel of this brand cannot be compared with steel Soviet period. Moreover, since 9HF steel was used to cut other steels, its quality life was unprecedented during the Soviet period. It was used not only for cutting other steels. Yes, 9KF steel could not be welded. But the quality, temperature and plastic properties of this steel made it an optimal choice for use on sawmills during logging. Why?

One detail is important here. Namely, the design of sawmills, which led to the fact that there was no one for use in them the best steel than 9HF steel.
So, the design of the R-63 sawmill was specific (it remains this way to this day)), complex, timeless, but not very easy to maintain. If one of the cutting saws broke down, it was necessary to reconfigure the entire saw scale again, which led to downtime of the sawmill, and given that logging in the USSR was carried out mainly by prisoners in the zones, such downtime did not help career growth her bosses. And delivering new saw blades to the wilds was problematic.

In this regard, there is an interesting fact: in some places the R-63 was tuned, paradoxically, by prisoner musicians. The 9xf blades were all industrial grade, the grip in the frame was the same, but the tension gap had a slight play. According to GOST, everything turned out fine, and the service life of the canvases was very decent. But still, sometimes incidents occurred due to the imperfection of the human spirit of the saw set. So, the prisoners, not being able to sharpen steel blades with high quality, quickly receive them from manufacturing plants, despite the fact that the plan had to be EXCEEDED, came up with the idea of ​​​​using blades made of 9HF steel, which holds an edge perfectly and is incredibly flexible and durable, and for grips insert razors that allow you to tune the frame with a kind of tuning fork: they achieved the same sound of the saw blades in the frame, the frame was started, the service life of the threading was enormous - all the blades were tensioned equally - there was no overload of tension on some blades, and a lack of it on others. The service life of 9HF steel on wood is enormous.

R-63 sawmills became a thing of the past as soon as the famous Soviet-made 9HF blades ceased to be produced. Modern ones, declared as saws made from 9HF, do not have nearly the same properties as the old steel: their composition is not the same, the hardening is not the same, and therefore the characteristics are not the same. In some villages and abandoned sawmills, grandfathers still have either whole canvases or fragments of Soviet-made canvases.
Craftsmen, knowing the amazing qualities of that steel, collect them as best they can and where they can - in villages and abandoned areas. Here are its characteristics:

This kind of 9HF steel from the Soviet period can be recommended to any taiga autonomous worker for making a cleaver or knife, since with fantastic flexibility, it has amazing hardness, holds the sharpening of the cutting edge for up to six months (unless, of course, you cut stones and sand) and does not lose their properties in conditions low temperatures Subpolar region, Far North, Siberia and Far East.