Plastic terrarium for tarantula. Terrarium for a spider: indoor pet chooses dry mode

“When purchasing a tarantula spider, you must immediately buy a terrarium, which costs a lot of money” is one of the popular misconceptions of beginners. In this article I want to tell you how to keep small tarantula spiders, which are many times smaller than an adult of the same species.

Pick up optimal sizes containers for keeping a tarantula spider are quite simple, the diameter of the container should be approximately 2-3 times the diameter of the paws of the tarantula itself, choose the height yourself, for terrestrial species it is not important, but arboreal tarantulas The height of the container can be made 2-3 times larger than the diameter. It is in such containers that tarantulas will feel comfortable and be easy to catch feeding insects , and will not be lost from sight.

Usually mature animals are kept in glass or other terrariums. tarantula spiders , mostly females, and small animals and teenagers can live quietly in plastic containers.

In what containers should the tarantula be kept?

As a rule, tarantula spiders are kept in plastic containers for various purposes, these can be containers for storing bulk products, containers for microwave ovens, disposable salad bowls and many others.

Most budget option, these are disposable salad bowls and sauce bowls, which can be bought in bulk in specialized stores and on the market, the price per piece can start from 1 ruble, depending on the size. Containers for microwave ovens or jars for carrying food are more expensive, but they have more convenient lids, thick walls, and they will serve you better than disposable containers. You can read how to make a convenient terrarium from a plastic container in the article: " How to make a terrarium with your own hands from a plastic container."

Thus, the myth about the high cost of a terrarium for a tarantula spider, especially if you buy little spider, completely dispelled. It turns out that you can buy a small spider for 200-300 rubles, and everything you need to keep it (container, tweezers, some feeding insects , spray bottle, substrate) for an additional 500-600 rubles.

Conditions for keeping tarantula spiders of small molts:

On this issue there are almost no discrepancies with the conditions of detention for a particular species of tarantula spider. I would like to note that the temperature in a terrarium with a young tarantula spider greatly affects its growth rate; it should be kept at the upper level recommended or 1-2 degrees higher, so the spiders will grow faster. But don’t get too carried away with this activity; there have been cases when the temperature in the containers rose so much that the spiders died.

The humidity level is also very important when you keep the tarantula in a small plastic container Condensation may appear on a damp substrate, on the walls and on the lid. If there is condensation, it means that there is not enough ventilation in the container, and you should make a few more holes in the lid and on the walls of the container.

If you keep a tarantula with a small molt, approximately L1-L4, then you should not make a large layer of substrate; the spider may bury itself and disappear from view. Due to inexperience, many begin to look for it, which can end either in the escape of the tarantula or in its death.
In pursuit of increased temperatures, do not place containers close to the battery, the temperature there can be very high. First, place a thermometer on the intended installation site, wait a few minutes, and see the result. Also remember that battery temperature depends on weather conditions change, and if yesterday it was warm, then tomorrow it may become hot.
Do not place tarantulas in containers with tree spiders as decorations. chinese chopsticks from bamboo, or whatever they are made from. For me, they become moldy within a couple of days upon contact with a damp substrate.

To all beginners and owners of tarantula spiders younger ages I advise you to read the article: “Here is a small article, but I hope it will be useful for many. At one time it would have helped me quite a lot, ask questions below in the comments, or in my group VKontakte.

Plexiglas is the most suitable material for a terrarium

The most suitable and affordable materials for creating terrariums are silicate and organic glass.

Advantages of plexiglass:

It is more difficult to break than ordinary silicate;
Containers made of plexiglass accumulate heat well and reluctantly release it into the surrounding space;
Its fragments rarely form sharp edges on which you can cut yourself;
Plexiglas is easier to process and fasten.

Plexiglas has fewer disadvantages than advantages, but each of them can become critical for a terrarium.

Plexiglass is easy to scratch. Therefore, you can only wash it with a soft sponge or gauze;
The surface of plexiglass becomes cloudy over time and begins to turn yellow;
Ultraviolet rays are harmful to plexiglass.

Thus, plexiglass is a good material for terrariums whose inhabitants cannot scratch the walls. These could be spiders, snakes, Achatina. To make terrariums in which animals with sharp claws (lizards or turtles) will live, you should choose a different material.

In addition to the plexiglass itself, you will need plastic corners and a metal mesh for ventilation. To make doors, you need two types of plastic E profiles. The upper profile should be 2 times deeper than the lower one. The size of both profiles corresponds to the thickness of the door material.

Choice of plexiglass

In order to choose the right plexiglass for a terrarium, you need to know that it comes in two types - cast and extruded. Casting is more expensive, but does not have most of the above disadvantages. It is stronger than extrusion and less cloudy. Some brands transmit UV rays well and are not destroyed under their influence. Therefore, it is worth choosing those brands of molded plexiglass that are characterized by strength, preservation of transparency and do not block UV rays. The sheet thickness should not be less than 5 mm.

Glue selection

The glue must meet two characteristics:

Be harmless to living organisms, do not emit chemicals in contact with litter, water or excrement;
Be durable and waterproof.

In practice, any silicone sealant for gluing terrariums or aquariums.

When working with such sealants, you must be careful, since drops frozen on the material are difficult to clean off.

Required Tools

To create a glass terrarium you will need the most common tools.

Glass cutter;
Fine-grained sharpening stone or sandpaper;
Ruler;
Marker for glass;
Sharp knife;
Heavy rectangular object;
Adhesive tape;
Sharp scissors.

You also need to take at least two rags: one for wiping glass, the other for other surfaces and hands.

Stages of making a terrarium

You should start making a terrarium with a drawing. On a piece of paper or using computer program you need to draw each side of the parallelepiped indicating the dimensions, as well as general view assembled, with sides marked. You can take ready-made sizes recommended for keeping a future pet, or you can calculate them yourself, based on the maintenance standards and conditions of a particular apartment.

Then, using a ruler and marker, draw out the details and cut them out. If there must be a hole in the part, it is drilled before gluing begins. The edges of glass parts are processed with a sharpening stone or sandpaper. To avoid glass dust, this is done under running tap water. After this, the parts are dried and the gluing areas are degreased with acetone.

Making the base

The parts are connected using glue. It is applied to the fat-free edges, after which the parts are pressed against each other and fixed. This is easiest to do with duct tape and a heavy rectangular object.

Connecting terrarium parts

Excess glue is not washed off - it is carefully cut off after the parts have completely dried. It is not recommended to press the surfaces to be glued close to each other; there should be a layer of glue of 1–2 mm between them.

In this way, they assemble a box with a built-in ventilation fence and proceed to the manufacture of doors. To do this, glue a deep profile to the ceiling from below.

Gluing deep profile

A small profile is applied to the upper part of the front corner of the ventilation fence.

Bonding small profiles

Doors are inserted into the grooves of the profiles. The result is a design like this.

Final design

Making a ventilation fence

This design uses flow ventilation. The principle of operation is that air enters one hole and exits into another, thus creating a constant current. It is very simple to set up flow-through ventilation, and in terms of efficiency it is superior to ventilation through an open lid. But there are two points that must be observed.

The air inlet is located at the bottom. The outlet should be 1.5–2 times larger and located at the top. It is optimal to place it near a heating source;
The holes should not be placed so that they are opposite to each other, otherwise the air flow will create a draft that is harmful to most insects and reptiles. The most correct option is to place the inlet hole on the side wall below, at ground level, and the outlet hole on the opposite wall at the very top.

Instead of one large one, you can make several small holes. Aluminum mesh is best suited for sealing them. Plastic and synthetic ones are fragile, iron ones rust when exposed to moisture.

Using flow ventilation you can also regulate humidity. To reduce humidity, it will be enough to increase the number or overall density of ventilation holes; to increase it, reduce it.

To create a ventilation fence, you need to cut out two additional parts - a strip for the doors and a rectangular ventilation panel.

They are glued in at the stage when the structure only has a bottom, back and side walls.

There are already two walls

Then the second wall is glued in. Using corners and glue, attach to upper parts metal mesh ventilation parts.

Installation of metal mesh

After this, they move on to making the roof. Both parts are glued to the resulting frame, between which a mesh for the outlet is attached using corners and glue.

Erection of the roof

The structure is left to dry for a day, then the edges of both holes are reinforced with glass strips.

Reinforcement with glass strips

Making a terrarium lid

Often a terrarium is made without doors, but with a removable lid. The advantages of this design are that sockets for heating lamps and fixtures for appliances, as well as fans for forced ventilation, are built into the lid.

Forced ventilation is used in large structures. Ventilation is carried out using two fans. The first promotes the influx fresh air from the outside, the second one mixes it inside the structure. Any brand that combines small size and low noise level is suitable for a terrarium, for example, cooling fans for system units.

A good material for the lid is foamed PVC, other non-toxic plastic will also work..

The height of the lid is selected taking into account the equipment that will be attached from below, the length and width - according to the dimensions of the terrarium with an increase in the thickness of the material. The parts are cut out and glued together in the same way as the glass parts of the terrarium. Holes are made in the finished cover for the wires and a hatch is cut out. After this, the lamps are built in. The wires must be carefully insulated, a piece of plastic should be glued to the sockets so that between heating elements and there was a gap in the lid.

Features of arrangement of terrariums depending on their purpose

For reptiles

Turtles do better in closed terrariums

Turtles do not tolerate the microclimate of an average Russian apartment. Therefore, open terrariums are not suitable for them - it is difficult to maintain the required temperature and humidity in them. Create for turtle good conditions only possible in a closed terrarium.

The dimensions of the minimum terrarium for a turtle are calculated as follows. The length will be equal to the length of the turtle multiplied by 5, and the width will be equal to the width of the turtle multiplied by the same value. Turtles do not need a large height; even for large individuals, it is not advisable to make terrariums higher than 50 cm.

When choosing material for the walls, it is necessary to take into account that turtles do not always adequately perceive transparent barriers and can bang against them for a long time. Therefore, opaque materials are preferred. To improve inspection, the front wall can be made of glass. Plexiglas is not recommended as it can be scratched by turtles with their claws.

Turtles need very good ventilation, so the top ventilation through the lid is not suitable. Need a flow one.

The temperature in the place where the turtle is kept should not fall below 22 C. Therefore, heating is required. Thermal mats and similar devices for bottom heating are not used, since heat flows emanating from below can cause kidney disease. Heating should be from above. To do this, you can use a regular 60 W incandescent lamp or an ultraviolet lamp. What these reptiles like most is uneven heating, when half for waking and eating is warmer, and half for sleeping is colder, so the lamps are placed near one of the walls.

The choice of terrarium for a lizard depends on its species.

The shape of the terrarium for lizards is chosen depending on their species. Trees need vertical terrarium, in which the height will be at least twice the width, on the ground - vice versa.

For small lizards, especially those who love to climb, one of the side walls can be made of metal mesh. The diameter of the cells should be such that the reptile cannot get out, but can cling freely with its paws. You can make a lid from the same mesh. Such designs are suitable for keeping reptiles, the optimal temperature for which is not too different from room temperature.

However, mesh walls are not suitable for keeping iguanas and chameleons. Apartment air is too dry and cold for them. In order to maintain the microclimate necessary for these reptiles, the walls are made of plywood, organic or silicate glass.

Iguanas are kept in horizontal terrariums. For one adult reptile over one and a half years old, the dimensions should be as follows: 200x200x125 cm. When kept in smaller rooms, iguanas lose their appetite, move little and lose resistance to diseases.

Small terrariums are also not suitable for keeping agamas; the minimum volume for keeping an adult is 200 liters. A built-in ultraviolet lamp is required. Stones with a heating element inside are not suitable for heating; you need to take a terrarium lamp or a regular incandescent lamp. Agamas do not like humidity and cold, so you need to equip the terrarium with a thermometer and hygrometer.

Terrariums for insects

For spiders and snails, horizontal terrariums without doors, but with removable lids, are suitable.

The tarantula does not require much space

Tarantula spiders are capricious when kept; any deviations from the required humidity and temperature in the terrarium can cause them to become ill. They do not tolerate drafts or stagnant air. Therefore, it is best to equip the terrarium with a heater with automatic temperature control and a hygrometer.

Tarantulas do not need large volumes; in nature, they spend their entire lives in shelters. The minimum bottom area is equal to the spider's leg span multiplied by 2.

Akhatina needs a home with large area bottom

Achatina requires rectangular terrariums with a large bottom area. These snails do not need a large influx of oxygen. For ventilation, a flow system is used; the air entry and exit points are rows of holes with a diameter of 3–4 mm.

Features of making a decorative terrarium

Either a teapot or a terrarium

Terrariums are used for more than just keeping reptiles and insects. Decorative terrariums can only contain plants and decorative elements. To make them, any glass container is used; preference is given to non-standard items. The video explains how to make a mini terrarium with lighting from an incandescent lamp.

Video: DIY light bulb terrarium

As you can see from the article, making a terrarium with your own hands is easy, and even a person who does not have such experience can handle it.

The number of exotic pet lovers is growing every day. Particularly popular is the keeping of tarantula spiders (lat. Theraphosidae). This is very interesting creatures, which amaze the imagination with their size.

The span of their legs can exceed 20 cm. Currently, more than 700 species of tarantulas are known. Most of them feel quite comfortable in captivity, and keeping them in a terrarium is not particularly difficult even for beginners.

Who can breed tarantulas

It is not recommended to have such pets for people suffering from various types allergies. Allergic reactions spider hairs can be very strong, so you will soon have to part with your favorite arachnid.

Also not worth buying poisonous species. Their bites are very painful and in some cases can even be fatal. It is better to move on to keeping such spiders after acquiring practical skills in caring for less dangerous arachnids.

It must be remembered that spiders cannot be trained. They simply stop perceiving their owner as a dangerous irritant. However, this does not prevent them from changing their opinion at any time, even after many years“friendship” and at the most inopportune moment inflict a strong bite on its owner.

Tarantulas from the American continent have a relatively “meek” character, while their African and Asian relatives are more aggressive and dangerous.

How to choose the right pet

When choosing a pet, you should consider its gender and age. If in most species the male lives for about 4 years, then the female can reach the respectable age of 25-30 years, and caring for her will become the work of your whole life.

It is better to stop your choice on spiders of 5-7 molts. Older individuals will take a long time to get used to the change in environment, which will invariably affect their well-being. Buying spiders with 1-2 moults makes it difficult to determine the species. After a year of keeping it, it may turn out that the furry little animal will not be the one you have long dreamed of.

Arrangement of the terrarium

For terrestrial spiders, horizontal terrariums are suitable, but for arboreal and climbing spiders, it is better to purchase a vertical terrarium. Its dimensions should be approximately 2-3 times the span of the legs. With less space, the pet will experience mental discomfort, and with a larger one, more energy will be required to heat it, light it and maintain the required humidity.

It is necessary to purchase one lamp for irradiation with the ultraviolet spectrum at 15-18 W, and another for local heating. Spiders require a constant temperature ranging from 21°C to 28°C. Humidity, depending on the type, is maintained in the range from 55-90%. There must be a rigid ventilation mesh to provide fresh air and prevent the tarantula from escaping.

Animals should always have access to clean drinking water and a place to hide. Tree species hide under branches or pieces of bark. For ground spiders, pour a thick ball of sand and decorate it with stones.

Tarantulas are very fragile creatures. They can easily injure their paws and abdomen when falling even from a small height or when coming into contact with sharp objects. When decorating the interior of their home, unnecessary clutter should be avoided.

The terrarium must be placed so that straight lines do not fall on it. sun rays. Tarantulas are active at night or twilight, so bright lighting will deprive them of their usual rest during the day.

Feeding a tarantula spider

Almost anyone can feed their pets. They are neither demanding nor whimsical when it comes to food. The main thing is that the victim is alive and 1.5-2 times smaller than the spider itself (from chelicerae to arachnoid warts).

The diet may include mice, frogs, tropical cockroaches and any insects. The only exceptions are some species of tree spiders, which ignore any terrestrial insects.

Giving frozen food is strictly prohibited. This can lead to the death of your pet.

If the spider refuses to eat for 5-7 days, then the victim should be caught and removed from the terrarium. The tarantula may be preparing to molt, and the presence of other living creatures distracts it from this important process. Small spiders can be fed as they eat food, and adults once every two weeks. The duration of the meal depends on the size of the victim and can reach three days.

It is advisable to change the bedding after each spider molt. Mites develop on the leftover food, which harm the health of the spider when it molts. After molting, the tarantula begins to feed after a week, and sometimes after 2-3 months.

Tarantula spiders are very clean. They carefully wrap food remains and droppings in a web and always leave them in one place, so cleaning the terrarium does not pose any difficulty. It is advisable to carry out all manipulations in the terrarium with long tweezers.

So, you have a desire to start exotic pet, and you wanted to buy yourself a tarantula spider. There is a lot that speaks in favor of your decision. Tarantulas are great animals to keep at home: they take up minimal space, you need to feed them once a week (or even a month), you can always surprise your friends and relatives with this pet. But where to start?

To begin with, it must be said that not all tarantulas are safe to have as a first pet. Asian, Australian and African species. The fact is that they are extremely aggressive and have a very toxic poison. Spiders of the New World are ideal for a beginner, namely most of the species from such genera as Acantoscurria, Brachypelma, Grammostola. These spiders are quite unpretentious, cheap and for the most part non-aggressive.
In fact, you can get anyone as your first spider, but some of these animals can pose a potential, although not fatal, danger, and there may be species that are very demanding in terms of keeping conditions.

At what age should I take a spider?

Finally, you have decided on the type and begin to look for where to buy the pet you need. Almost immediately you come across a ton of advertisements, but for some reason they have a big difference in price. The fact is that the cost of a spider depends on age and gender. And then you say that it’s easier to buy a small spider, watch it grow, and the price is quite satisfactory. That’s how it is, but it’s better not to do this without experience in content. Young spiders are tiny and require much more care than adults, and besides, it is much more difficult to find food for small spiders than for an adult.
As for gender, it is worth noting that male tarantulas live much shorter than females, and they are also much smaller in size, and therefore they are rarely of collectible value. There are species in which the males are much more beautiful and brighter than the females, but this is a very rare case. Therefore, if you want the spider to live with you as long as possible, then you should get a female.

Choosing a home

After choosing a spider, you should think about where it will live. For a spider, it doesn’t matter where to live, the main thing is that the conditions there are good. Food containers can serve this purpose - this will be the best home for the spider if it is still small. You need to make holes in the container for ventilation, fill it with soil and that’s it. Convenient, practical, not expensive. However, if you decide to provide the spider with more beautiful housing, then for this purpose you will already need a terrarium.
How to choose a terrarium? It all depends on the type of spider: there are terrestrial, burrowing, arboreal and intermediate species. It is worth considering that the type of young and adult spiders may differ. For ground spiders, horizontal or cubic terrariums are suitable. These spiders can much more often be found walking around your home. For burrows, both a horizontal and a cubic terrarium may be suitable, but it is worth considering what should be poured into it large number soil. In addition, burrow spiders really do not like to be in plain sight and come to the surface only at nightfall, while semi-burrowing species can stay near the burrow and hide in case of danger. Woody species require a vertical terrarium. Such spiders will build air tunnels from their webs, sometimes embedding small quantity soil to strengthen the home.
Regarding the size of the terrarium, it should be said that you should not strive to purchase a huge terrarium, since the animal will be constantly under stress, and this will affect its health. The fact is that spiders prefer to be safe in narrow conditions, so if you put a spider in a large space, you risk its health. In the wild, spiders also look for any voids, cracks in trees, or hollows, or even dig holes themselves where they feel safe.
You can arrange the terrarium itself by putting in it shelters for the spider, all kinds of driftwood and decorations. Such arrangement is sometimes even necessary, especially for tree species that require a foundation for building a home. However, when installing natural decor, such as live plants, driftwood, or bark, in a terrarium, you need to be careful - organic materials can begin to rot or mold, and they can also develop pathogenic bacteria. Such materials should be treated thermally, but in no case should insecticides or toxic substances be used, as they can harm the spider.

Priming

If we figured out the terrarium and the spider, now we need to know what to put in the spider’s terrarium. The soil is very important, since it serves as the basis for the home, it is important for maintaining humidity, and besides, it is through the soil that spiders will drink - they will most likely either mercilessly bury the drinking bowl, or weave it, or even shit in it.
Selecting soil is quite easy. It should allow air to pass through well, not mold, maintain the required level of humidity and not be too small. Therefore, ordinary soil is not suitable for flowers; moreover, it may contain insecticides. Decorative sand or regular sand are also not suitable, since the sand contains very small particles that the spider can inhale and die. Coconut substrate is best suited for these purposes. Now it has gained great popularity; it can be easily obtained in almost any store for a relatively low price. It is also not recommended to use vermiculite or perlite, because these substrates contain a lot fine particles In addition, spiders living on these soils often become more aggressive, apparently experiencing stress.

Creating favorable conditions

We have a spider, a terrarium, how can we now create conditions in which the spider will feel comfortable? First, you need to create the desired temperature. For this, there are various thermal mats, heating stones, thermal cords and other elements, which usually have the ability to set the desired temperature. Absolutely all tarantulas will feel good at a temperature of 25 degrees. Lamps should not be used as a heating device, as light negatively affects the health of the pet.
Now let's figure out how to create and maintain the required humidity. Spiders live in tropical forests, where humidity can sometimes reach 100%, and in deserts, where humidity is minimal, and increasing it can kill spiders. Depending on the level of humidity you need, you can divide the procedures for maintaining it into 4 levels:

1. 50-60%. At this moisture level, the soil should be completely dry. Spiders, at this level of humidity, should be moistened approximately once every 4-5 days with a spray bottle, or a drinking bowl should be installed, and the spider should be provided with clean water.

2. 60-70%. This level is very similar to the previous one. At this level, the spider needs to install a drinking bowl and lightly moisten the soil next to the drinking bowl.

3. 70-80%. At this level, it is already necessary to moisten the soil well, but at the same time create dry islands.

4. 80-90%. The soil must be kept completely well moistened at all times. You can install artificial waterfalls, but make sure that the spider does not drown in the water. The higher the humidity level, the more the soil should resemble a swamp.

To all of the above, we can add that for measuring humidity there are hygrometers that can be purchased at pet stores. These devices will allow you to create the most suitable humidity level.

Substrate in a terrarium for tarantulas

When determining the conditions for keeping tarantula spiders, it should be taken into account that the substrate in the tarantula’s terrarium is not only a “bedding” for it, but performs at least two essential functions– maintaining general humidity and ensuring normal molting of tarantulas. In nature, a spider, moving deep into a hole or, conversely, to its surface, tearing out side holes or deepening it, thus regulates the temperature and humidity conditions. In captivity, when creating and regulating conditions artificially, directly by man, this role of the substrate for adult specimens is minimized, but for juveniles early ages extremely significant.

Based on many years of experience in raising young tarantula spiders, it has been noted that in the presence of a large layer of moistened substrate, as a rule, there are no problems with molting, and the possibility of their dehydration (dehydration) is virtually eliminated.

There are different opinions among collectors around the world regarding the composition of the substrate and the materials used as the substrate. However, it is absolutely clear to formulate the requirements that it must necessarily meet: moisture capacity, i.e. the ability to absorb a sufficient amount of water and slowly evaporate it, neutrality (non-aggressive environment) and hygiene. The hygiene of the substrate lies in its being as resistant as possible to rotting and fungal attack, as well as inhibiting the proliferation of mites in it.

Vermiculite certainly meets the requirements. It is widely used in hydroponic culture in growing agricultural and ornamental plants in an intensive way. Vermiculite is chemically neutral, retains moisture well and has antibacterial properties. Its only drawback is that it is a fine fraction, crumbles and for this reason cannot be used to contain actively digging species. Another significant disadvantage can be considered the fact that appearance It is not easy to determine the degree of its humidity.

Another substrate on which tarantula spiders are successfully kept is peat and its various mixtures, and, as the most practical, a mixture with sphagnum moss in various proportions. Such a substrate is also highly hygroscopic, but is much more easily affected by fungus and, being biologically active, requires a significant thickness of backfill in the terrarium, which, given the tendency of most species of tarantulas to dig up soil, makes it less practical for species that do not require a large layer .

Remember that at the slightest manifestation of fungal growth, the appearance of mites or dipterans (especially the predatory humpback fly) in the terrarium, the soil must be immediately replaced, and the terrarium must be sanitized!

However, the most popular substrate common today is the so-called. Coconut substrate, which is finely ground coconut fiber, is widely used by hobbyists around the world. It is easy to use and meets all the requirements for a substrate for keeping tarantulas, but can also be affected by fungus (depending on its quality and processing).

As a last resort, you can use special garden soil as soil, but in conditions high humidity, required to maintain almost all tropical species, there is a very high risk of mites and fungal growth in it.

It is not recommended to use gravel, aquarium soil, or artificial surfaces as a substrate for tarantulas. The thickness of the soil layer is great value when keeping actively digging burrowing species (Hysterocrates spp., Haplopelma spp. and some others). For other species, its layer should be sufficient to maintain moisture, i.e. about 3-7 cm depending on the type of substrate (less for vermiculite, more for “earthen” soils).

Remember: under no circumstances should the substrate be allowed to become waterlogged - this can lead to the death of your pet!

Decorative design of the terrarium

Decorating a terrarium is only advisable if it is intended as an element of home interior decoration, and is optional, since decorating the terrarium is unlikely to have any significance for the spiders themselves.

Terrariums can be decorated with bark, driftwood, artificial plants, and live moss. All decoration elements must be securely fixed in the terrarium and placed so that they cannot serve as a refuge for food items. When fixing them, it is necessary to remember that it is inadmissible to use compositions containing toxic substances(Only specialized adhesives for aquariums are applicable).

Special attention should be paid to the use of living plants in terrariums with tarantulas.
As you know, the vast majority of plants require bright lighting, which is unacceptable for almost all types of tarantulas. In addition, given the active digging activity of many species and the tendency of almost all terrestrial representatives of the family to move the substrate in the terrarium, it is not practical to use live plants in the terrarium. Therefore, their use is possible only in terrariums with woody species tarantulas, but due to the difference necessary conditions It is also impractical for plants and tarantulas. Instead, it is better to use artificial plants.

Under no circumstances should objects and materials with sharp edges that could damage the tarantula be used as decorative elements in the terrarium.

Lighting in a terrarium for tarantulas

All tarantula spiders live in various kinds burrows and shelters and lead exclusively twilight night image life, being active, usually in the absence of lighting. Therefore, there is no need to equip terrariums for tarantulas with additional lighting.

If you decide to decorate a terrarium with a spider using live plants, and special lighting equipment is necessary, use small fluorescent lamps, installing them on top of the terrarium (however, in this case you should not count on the fact that you will see the tarantula often). Under no circumstances use incandescent lamps for this purpose, as they dry out the air, thereby causing a sharp drop in humidity in the terrarium, and can also cause burns to your pet (if installed inside the terrarium). In addition, they are very poorly suited in terms of spectrum for living plants.

Some hobbyists equip terrariums with tarantulas with red light lamps, which allows them to observe the active life of spiders at night without disturbing them, since tarantulas do not seem to perceive the red spectrum of light. It should, however, be noted that many spiders adapt to the light over time and do not seek shelter during the daytime, allowing them to be observed almost around the clock.

Temperature of keeping tarantulas

The body temperature of a spider, and therefore the intensity of metabolism and other functions of its body, is directly dependent on temperature environment. The optimal temperature for keeping tarantula spiders ranges from 20-25°C (for tropical forest species) and up to 26-28°C for inhabitants of arid biotopes (group 4), but minor temperature changes in one direction or another do not cause any harm to tarantulas.

In the case of certain species of group 2 (for example, Grammostola rosea, Chilean Paraphysa spp. and some others), capable of withstanding significant drops in temperature, a temperature drop of up to 14-15 ° C is permissible, and for Megaphobema mesomelas from the mountain cloud forests of Costa - Ricky, temperatures above 23-24°C can be fatal (observation for natural individuals).

A drop in temperature below 18°C for species of group 3 (except for burrowing Asian tarantulas, for which successful breeding it is necessary to arrange a period of rest at low temperatures), and especially tarantulas inhabiting biotopes of low-lying humid tropical forests, living in nature in deep burrows, where the temperature is quite stable and is 20-24 ° C (Striffler, B., 2006; Cloudsley-Thompson et al., 1984) depending on the depth of measurement from the surface of the substrate, as well as representatives of the group 4 (inhabiting arid biotopes of Africa) is extremely undesirable. At the same time, decreases of 3-5 ° C and even lower in relation to the required temperatures do not affect tarantulas in any negative way if the spiders are not fed and the impact low temperatures not long lasting.

Observations in captivity show that during summer period When the ambient temperature rises sharply (above 30°C), the tarantula can be seen submerged in containers of water for drinking. This behavior is especially characteristic of burrowing forest tropical tarantulas (Theraphosa spp., Megaphobema spp., Nhandu spp., etc.), for which a significant increase in temperature is also extremely undesirable, as is its decrease.

Therefore, when choosing temperatures for keeping, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of specific species of tarantulas. But for the most part, tarantulas do not require additional heating and normal life and development are quite content with average room temperature.

Moreover, it was noted that the practiced “forced” rearing of tarantulas at elevated temperatures with intensive feeding leads to adverse consequences for their further development and reproductions. So, for example, the productivity of giant males and females is much lower than those raised under normal conditions.

On the other hand, the possibility of artificially regulating the temperature of the content has its advantage, since it allows you to control the growth rate of spiders, which is important when breeding tarantulas due to the limited number of individuals of one species, if there are only limited quantity individuals of a species from one cocoon.

It should be noted that tarantulas bred and raised in captivity are more flexible in relation to the maximum and minimum temperatures of maintenance.

Humidity in a terrarium for tarantulas

In nature, the spider’s body is protected from drying out by its shelter; it also has the opportunity to choose various places for shelter within the natural biotope. In captivity, a person deprives him of this opportunity and is obliged to artificially provide the level of humidity necessary for the tarantula on his own.

As already mentioned, the substrate used for terrariums with tarantulas plays an essential role in maintaining the required level of humidity, and therefore, even for the relatively dry species of group 4, it should be slightly moistened in one of the corners.

The installed drinking container is also a factor in maintaining humidity due to water evaporation. For species of groups 1 and 3, regular spraying of the terrarium is recommended. The average humidity of keeping tarantulas ranges from 60 to 80%. For representatives of arid African biotopes, a decrease in humidity to 40-50% is allowed, while species such as Theraphosa blondi and a number of others require high humidity - about 90%.

Mikhail Bagaturov