Ski resorts of the Dolomites in Italy: the ideal formula for a winter holiday. Dolomites, Italy

Kristina Maistrova works as a QA engineer, tests the strength of everything she sees, and in her free time she draws illustrations, snowboards and leads blog about drawing and travel. For 34travel, the girl talked about an eventful trip to Italy - to the Dolomites.

Why Dolomites?

For the last couple of years I have been dreaming of mountains. My husband and I have already managed to travel to the Caucasus and the Balkans. Of course, the Alps were not enough for complete happiness. I read about mountain lakes, cozy chalets and crazy landscapes. But the final kick was the legend of the Dolomites. It says that the Dolomites used to be a blooming rose garden and served as home to the dwarves and their king. But it just so happened that one day the roses could not hide their magical ruler from pursuit, and he cursed them, shouting that he did not want to see them day or night. Fortunately, the king forgot about sunrises and sunsets, leaving us the opportunity to see how the mountains bloom in the rays of the setting and rising sun. So we went to the mountains in search of the “rose garden”, and along the way we decided to take a ride around Garda.

“We were in no hurry at all, stopped at viewing points and followed the rules even when it really annoyed the hot-tempered Italian drivers.”

How to get there?

The most convenient way to fly from Moscow to Verona is by direct flight S7; it will cost about € 200-250 per person. This amount did not fit into our budget. It was decided to buy Pobeda tickets. She often pleases with prices, but always disappoints with quality. At the start of sales, a ticket cost € 60 roundtrip per person. But according to Pobeda’s favorite scheme, I had to pay extra for everything: luggage (10 kg - €7), the opportunity to sit next to my husband (about € 5), commission for paying by card (10%).

Our flight arrived at the small airport of Treviso, which is next to. After an hour of queuing at customs and another hour of fiddling with paperwork at the car rental company, we picked up our pre-booked one on the Rentalcars website. They also took out additional insurance with deductible coverage. Its cost was equal to the cost of the car, but peace of mind was more valuable. On the spot we also had to pay extra for snow chains. Chains are required from November 15th to April 15th. Renting with insurance and all expenses for 6 days cost € 120.

From Treviso airport to Lake Garda you can travel cheaply, beautifully and for a long time - along regional highways through Trento - or expensively and quickly - along the toll motorways A4 and A22 through Verona (€ 15). We have chosen long haul and they didn’t regret it, because the road went along picturesque slopes, mountain rivers, small towns and very small villages. We spent about 4 hours on the road, but at the same time we were in no hurry, stopped at viewing points and followed the rules even when it really annoyed the hot Italian drivers.

Day 1. Fogs on Lake Garda

They decided to live in the town of Torbol in the very north of the lake near Riva del Garda. Both cities stretch along the coast, flowing from one to the other. If you wish, you can walk right through them while walking along the embankment. Torbol, quiet and calm, is loved by Austrian and German tourists from June to August. In April, many hotels are free, restaurants are half empty and prices are 1.5 times cheaper than in the season. If you want to stay in a room with a view of the lake, you will have to shell out €50-60. Or be cunning and rely on the favor of hoteliers.

The path lay to the capital of the province - the city of Bolzano, also known as Bozen. You can get there via the toll motorway A22 or its toll freeway SS12. In South Tyrol, the names of all cities are duplicated in Italian and German, because most of the inhabitants speak either German or the local dialect - Ladin. And even the passports of Tyroleans are written in two languages. Unfortunately, not everyone understands English.

In the city, if you want to save on parking, you can leave your car in the parking lot of a shopping center and not worry about it being towed away. Usually parking there is either free, conditionally free (for 1-2 hours), or very cheap. Of the minuses: such shopping centers are located far from the historical center. We left the car at the shopping center Twenty (Via G. Galilei, 20). A bonus was a pleasant walk along the mountain river on which the city stands. It took us about an hour to get to the center.

The historical center of Bolzano is not too big (you can walk around it in 2-3 hours), but very cozy. It feels like you are in a fairy tale. There are forged signs, stucco moldings, arched galleries everywhere, and every now and then you come across figures of gnomes in red caps. And there is a fair on one of the streets. Products here are much more expensive than in local supermarkets, but those on market shelves look tastier and more interesting. They say that the market sells farm products, and local residents prefer them, especially those grown and produced in their province. And I understand them very much, despite all the Italian abundance, Tyrolean mature cheeses and speck were most memorable.

After walking around the old town, we bought some ice cream and went to relax on Walterplatz. Along the perimeter of the square there are cafes, restaurants and even food trucks for every budget. You can have lunch here for either €10 or €100. But sitting under the umbrellas, although comfortable, is still not as interesting as on the edge of the fountain, under the warm spring sun and the shadow of Walter's monument. It is from this square that many tourist routes start and a web of streets disperses - it is not for nothing that it is called the living room of the city. Here it rises main cathedral region Duomo di Bolzano, and in December the Christmas market begins its work. The cathedral itself was built on the site of three basilicas, the ruins of which are still preserved inside the cathedral. You can get inside from 10 am to 5 pm for free.

One of the most famous attractions in Bolzano is Renon cable car, connecting Lower and Upper Bolzano with the Renon plateau. The guidebooks promise stunning views and a ride on a historic tram. Alas, we decided against this trip. There was very little time left, and the ticket price of € 14 per person motivated us to return to the car and get to the mountains on our own.

Dwarven paths. Castelrotto

We immediately abandoned the fast and direct motorway, as well as its free backup. Adventurers can't go on the highway, they'll get bored. Adventurers need to go to the mountains to see narrow paths, overhanging mountains and small villages on their slopes. So we turned off the SS12 regional motorway onto the narrow serpentine road LS24, which passes through the historic village Castelrotto. That's where we needed to go. The road rises into the mountains to almost 2000 meters above sea level, and at the pass I began to get quite stormy, which did not stop me from stopping at all the viewpoints. Life hack: if you don’t want fines, don’t leave your car near the side of the road, it’s better to wait for observation platforms or roadside cafes.

Tyrolean village roads surprised with their not the most high quality. I firmly believed that there were no bad roads in Europe, but here it felt like we were in the suburbs of Saratov. But everything could be forgiven for the incredible alpine landscapes. And if echoes of Italy were still felt in Bolzano, then Austria begins behind it. Nobody here understands Italian anymore, and the locals look different: fair-haired, tall, with soft features. Prayer islands with the image of the Virgin Mary along the roads give way to huge wooden crucifixes. And it's even a little scary. These crucifixes are everywhere: on the roads, on houses, inside houses, among cities. We even saw a store that sells these two-meter crosses. In the dining room of the farm where we stayed, there was also a cross on the entire wall.

Castelrotto or Kastelrut, translated as “ruined castle” and is located near Mount Schrut. Trostburg Castle There really is one nearby, only now it has been restored and is available for visiting. Unfortunately, the tour is only available for groups in Italian and German. Price € 8. I really wanted to look at the famous houses with frescoes, each of which is 500 years old. The painting was based on Christian parables and local legends, so you get the feeling that you are not looking at a city, but at picture books. We were not very lucky with the weather: if in Bolzano it was +20, then in Castelrotto the temperature dropped to 13 degrees Celsius. It took us an hour to explore the city. If it were warmer, we would certainly go for a walk along one of the walking routes that start from the village.

On an alpine farm

We chose a farm for the night. Saderhof (Tötschling, 57, Bressanone) , located 15 minutes from the city Bressanone(or Brixen). We booked the farm through their website because it was much cheaper than through booking. A room for two nights with breakfast cost €80 for two. Saderhof is a real working farm with horses, goats, sociable donkeys and rabbits. The owner here is an Austrian woman, Monika, and her two daughters. They all speak pretty poor English and don’t speak Italian at all, but they are very friendly and welcoming. Every morning Monica was waiting for us in the kitchen with a huge pot of coffee and an equally sized pinscher with frothed milk. With this she literally stole my heart. The coffee was accompanied by hot buns, Tyrolean cheeses, speck and incredible Alpine butter. There were some fruits and pastries, but they didn’t interest us at all. , which is located in the center of the reserve of the same name. From the farm to the lake it takes about two hours to travel along the SS49 road. Traffic in Tyrol is completely different from the rest of Italy. Drivers most often follow the rules, do not overtake and do not press the horn when you slow down to 60. You get the feeling that the rhythm of life here is completely different and people are calmer. That's why we were in absolutely no hurry. Moreover, all the way we were followed by rain turning into snow.

The closer we got to the lake, the more I became overwhelmed foreboding. There was more and more snow along the roads, and the temperature gauge was dropping into the minus. We arrived at an empty nearby parking lot, left the car and, under the snow and drifts, went to watch “how the shadows of the trees drown in the emerald water.” Hope dies last, right? So, mine is buried under the ice that covered the fabulous Lake Braies in April. Even in winter colors it is, of course, beautiful there. But expectations diverged from reality different sides. A miracle still happened to us, but later, when an avalanche fell from one of the mountains surrounding the lake. It was far from us, and only thanks to its favorable location we could watch how the avalanche bends the Christmas tree, and were not afraid of ending up in its clutches.

We wandered around the lake some more. We were completely frozen in our light clothes. I really wanted to warm up and drink coffee, but the hotel, located on the shore of the lake, was closed in the off-season. We had to pay €5 for 20 minutes in an empty parking lot. Frustrated and tired from the altitude difference, we drove back.

Day 5. Cities hidden in the Dolomites

In the remaining time we went to see the mountain towns: Brunico(Brunesque) and Bressanone(Brixen). Brunico is located in the Val Pusteria at the foot of the Brunico Castle. The old town has almost completely preserved its medieval image. Houses with stucco, forged elements and frescoes on the walls resemble gingerbread houses. Each building, be it a tavern, a residential building or shop windows, is interesting to look at from various small parts from the bell system to the river shutters and balconies. The city is filled with shops selling clothing for rock climbing and mountain trekking. We eagerly ran into the first one we came across, hoping to buy ourselves everything. But, unfortunately, local prices did not leave us a chance. Even gas for our burner cost from €8, and the cheapest raincoat was €100. After walking around the city, we went to the castle. It is from there that it opens best view to the city. Entrance to the castle itself is paid - € 10. But if you wish, you can just take a walk in the park around it for free. Several hiking trails start from here, but after the rain we didn’t dare follow them.

Bressanone was located next to our farm, from Bolzano it took about an hour to get there via the free city and 40 minutes along the A22 motorway. Brixen, the most ancient city in Tyrol, was founded in 901 in the Isarco valley. It is in many ways similar to other Tyrolean towns, just as small, cozy and charming. There are no big shops or huge shopping centers. But there is a cozy old town, many cafes with affordable prices and a wonderful Assumption Cathedral (Duomo di Maria Assunta) in Romanesque style. Entrance to the cathedral is free (as is the case with other churches in Italy). But if you want to visit the Bishop's Palace and the Diocesan Museum (Piazza Palazzo Vescovile, 2) , you will have to pay € 8.

To end the day we settled down on the terrace

This is one of the most beautiful places in the country. The Dolomites in Italy have long been called the “eighth wonder of the world.” They form part of South Tyrol, formerly belonging to Austria. These lands changed hands more than once, and are now the property of the Italians. If you need to imagine more precisely geographical location– The Dolomites lie in the north-east of Italy, where the provinces of Bolzano-Bozen are located: Trento, Belluno and South Tyrol. They also invade the Veneto region a little.

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The Dolomites are separate mountains and small massifs. Millions of years ago there was a warm sea here. When it retreated, fjords and reefs, unusual rock formations remained. At the end of the 18th century, the Frenchman Dolomier described these mountains, collected samples, and Swiss scientists responded to a request that they had not yet explored such soil. Therefore, the mountains were named after Dolomieu. The Dolomites are most beautiful during sunrise and sunset, when they turn into different colors - from yellow to purple. Of course, this effect is provided by the minerals that make them up. However, the extraordinary spectacle gave rise to many legends.

One of the most poetic legends says that the Dolomites were once inhabited by good gnomes. They planted a beautiful garden, and from the numerous roses growing on the slopes, the mountains from afar seemed red, yellow, or pink. No walls enclosed the magical valley - the territory was limited only by the thinnest thread, like a cobweb. Evil people captured the dwarves and their king Laurino. But the ruler managed to enchant his flower garden. He told him to be invisible day and night. And only at the moment of twilight one can imagine how beautiful the mountains and lowlands in these places once were.

Another legend says that mountains with such unusual shape, were once beautiful castles. One of the princes who lived here fell in love with a beauty who descended from the moon. The girl married him, but continued to yearn for her homeland. And then the gnomes, in order to replicate the lunar landscape on Earth, covered everything around with magic threads. Because of this, the Dolomites appear light gray during the day. Even the former name of the mountains Monti Pallidi (Pale Mountains) appeared in connection with this beautiful story. Legends also call the highest peak of Marmolada an “enchanted girl”: supposedly, the stepmother cast an evil spell on her stepdaughter, envying her beauty. And, of course, according to legend, gnomes, fairies and sorcerers still live in the caves and grottoes of the Dolomites, who sometimes appear to people.

Dolomites in Italy: resorts and attractions

Today the Dolomites are known as a ski resort that unites a dozen regions. The most famous are: Val Gardena, Val di Fassa, Arabba. They are connected by ski slopes and cable cars. This gives tourists the opportunity to visit all resorts in a short period of time. In total, there are about four dozen towns and villages here – large and small. Among them there are large ones, where guests will find all kinds of amenities and a lot of entertainment, and very small ones, without developed infrastructure. The main attractions of the latter are only the stunning mountain landscapes.

Most resorts are designed for guests of all ages; both beginner skiers and families with children can come here. But there are also places that are aimed mainly at professionals. They have a system of the most difficult trails that require a high level of training. This region is also rich in sights that are worth visiting.

The unusually beautiful abbey resembles an ancient castle, drowning in the greenery of the forests. To visit here, you need to come to the town of Mals in South Tyrol. The abbey was founded at the beginning of the 12th century. Its architecture has Baroque features, and its ancient frescoes, preserved in good condition, give it additional historical value. Throughout its long life, the abbey experienced difficult times more than once. It was robbed, monks died during plague epidemics, and fires occurred here. Only in the 16th century, under the German monks, did it begin to grow.

One of the novices wrote a history of the abbey, listed the names of its abbots and the privileges that the kings and Popes granted to the monastery. In the mid-18th century, under the auspices of the abbey, a humanist school was opened, which is still run by monks. You can see the abbey from the inside by booking a special excursion.

The castle was named after its owners - the Counts of Tyrol. Moreover, the counts immortalized themselves not only in the name of the castle. Later this entire region in Italy became known as South Tyrol. This place was inhabited in ancient times. Archaeologists have found historical finds here dating back to antiquity and early Middle Ages. The first Christians even built their own church in this area. The castle was built over a long period: from the beginning of the 11th to the end of the 13th century. Each subsequent owner tried to expand and decorate it. In the 15th century, the rulers of Tyrol lived here, then their residence was moved to Innsbruck (Austria).

In the 18th century, the beautiful castle almost ceased to exist. Part of it collapsed into the gorge, and everything that remained had to be dismantled into stones. But, after a while, it was decided to restore the Tyrolean castle; this work was finally completed in the first years of the 20th century. The decision to restore it was the right one: after all, the castle is valuable not only as a building - there are rare frescoes and sculptures here. Today everyone can view them - the Museum of the History of South Tyrol is opened in the castle. Nearby there is a nursery where falcons are raised, preparing them for hunting - another fun that came from the darkness of centuries.

In clear weather, the snowy peak of Marmolada can be seen from Venice - the city is only a hundred kilometers away. Marmolada is the highest point of the Dolomites, exceeding 3300 m. Now it is no longer possible to know whether people climbed it in ancient times, but of the officially recorded ascents, the first to set foot on the top of Marmolada was the Austrian Paul Grohmann. This happened in 1864. At the same time, the mountain was called the “Queen of the Alps.” It is not only impressive with its height, but it is the only one where the glacier has been preserved, crowning it like a royal crown.

During World War I, Austrian and Hungarian troops dug tunnels into the glacier to reach Italian positions undetected. The work was hard and required rest. In tunnels made in the ice, rooms were equipped where soldiers could sleep and eat. Now there is nothing left of these tunnels - the glacier is moving. In fact, Marmolada is a mountain range, each of its peaks exceeds 3 thousand meters. In the winter season it is a real paradise for skiers and snowboarders. You can ride here seven months a year. Modern lifts and trails are equipped.

An ancient castle dating back to the 14th century is also located in South Tyrol. In the 19th century it underwent significant reconstruction at the behest of its owner, Count von Trauttmansdorff. For many years after the Second World War, the beautiful structure was neglected; restoration work began in the first years of the 21st century. Today there is a museum here that attracts large number visitors.

You can look at the rooms where Empress Elizabeth of Austria (Sissi) lived, admire the ancient chapel, a spacious hall decorated in the Rococo style, and also get acquainted with exhibits telling about the development of tourism in South Tyrol. The park surrounding the castle has now been turned into botanical garden, where plants from all continents are collected, a bird aviary is open.

Unusual peaks, shaped like teeth. There are three of them, each almost reaching 3000 m. At the beginning of the 20th century, the “Three Prongs” separated Austria and Italy; today they serve as the border between the Italian provinces. The mountains were first conquered by man in the second half of the 19th century: the same Paul Grohmann climbed Cima Grande, and Michael Innerkofler climbed the other two peaks.

Today anyone can do this if they are in good physical fitness– there are many hiking trails here, along the way there is the opportunity to relax in shelters and mountain huts. On the mountain slopes there are traces of the First World War: remains of fortifications, memorial plaques.

Cinque Torri is located in the east of the Dolomites and is a small mountain range consisting of 5 peaks, the highest of which is a little over 2300 m. This place is very attractive for tourists. Firstly, it’s possible to climb each of the mountains. Secondly, you can have a very special holiday by relaxing in shelters and mountain huts. Beautiful groves, roads from the First World War, unusual colors of the mountains in the evenings - all this attracts many guests here. And in winter, skiers come here to ski using the well-equipped slopes.

Translated into Russian, the name means “Lake of the Holy Cross”. Even those who come to Italy to explore Venice try to get here. After the city noise, you want privacy. Silence, peace and pristine beauty - that’s what travelers find here. You can admire the centuries-old trees and mountain peaks reflected in the water surface. Tourists have boats for rent, and the bravest ones will be offered paragliding.

Ski resorts of the Dolomites

The resorts of the Dolomites are in demand at any time of the year. Rock climbers and mountaineers, lovers of river rafting and simply wandering along mountain paths come here. And yet, this place is, first of all, a ski resort. A single ski pass has been established for 12 regions.

This resort is called a “winter dream” for its extreme picturesqueness: the mountain slopes are covered with dense forest. The tracks stretch for more than 220 kilometers. Designed for both beginners and professionals.
For beginners there are sports schools. There are also skating rinks open at the resort, you can go ice skating, work out in indoor sports complexes, or go on excursions. The infrastructure is developed. Guests stay in 3-4 star hotels, many cafes, restaurants, and nightclubs.

Hotels in Val di Fassa near ski lifts:

Near the resort there is an unusual peak “Sassolungo” (“long stone”). So people come here not only to ski, but also to look at this wonder. Val Gardena is one of the best resorts in Italy. The small town is provided with everything necessary. There are excellent hotels, developed infrastructure, and excellent ski slopes. From any hotel the road to the ski lift takes just a few minutes.

The local population speaks their own dialect, which is a mixture of Italian and German languages, and is very welcoming to tourists. All the necessary equipment can be rented here, and if necessary, you can use the services of an instructor who will teach you how to ski. Alpine skiing competitions have been held in Val Gardena more than once international level. Climbers also come here to conquer the local peaks.

Hotels in Val Gardena near ski lifts:

Russians are still just discovering this picturesque resort, but residents of European countries have long appreciated it. There are all conditions here to have a good time. There are many comfortable hotels, and simple slopes are perfect for families with children and those who are just starting to learn the basics of skiing. Special buses deliver tourists from hotels and boarding houses to the ski lifts. The resort also offers a varied excursion program.

The name means "three valleys". The resort unites the small towns of Moena and Passo San Pellegrino. Every year more and more not only skiers, but also nature lovers come to Moena - the local landscapes are unusually beautiful. At sunset, the mountains are painted in a fabulous pink light. You need to go to the ski lifts by bus for about 10 minutes - they are located outside the city. Tourists have 15 km of trails for beginners, there are also “red” and “black” trails, the latter for experts. 8 lifts are in operation. Those interested can go snowboarding, and children's playgrounds are open.

Passo San Pellegrino is also popular with tourists, and hotels here are located near the slopes. It is in this town that you can fully appreciate the beauty of the Alps. The local slopes are suitable for both beginners and experienced skiers, and the landscapes opening from the mountain slopes will not leave anyone indifferent. You can also go ice skating, race through virgin snow on a snowmobile, and play snowballs. In summer, many guests also come to this town. Various tourist routes originate from here, mountain hikes are organized, and tourists visit the sights of the First World War.

Hotels in Passo San Pellegrino near ski lifts:

Val di Fiemme

This resort is also called the “gateway to the Dolomites” if you come here from Milan or Verona. Many tourists do not want to go further, since Val di Fiemme has many advantages.
There are beautiful, well-lit pistes, modern ski lifts, a wide selection of hotels, cafes and shops, reasonable prices, very tasty cuisine and friendly attitude of the locals.

The town can become best choice for families who come to relax with children. Skiers have about 100 km of slopes at their disposal, as well as toboggan runs and snow parks. It is also worth noting that there is an artificial snowmaking system here, so the weather will not interfere with active recreation. Also come here are those who simply love skiing on snow-covered plains. The tracks here are so good that major competitions are regularly held in these parts. You can ride both during the day and in the evening, and twice a week - even at night.

Hotels in Val di Fiemme near ski lifts:

This small town is located somewhat isolated, in the valley of the Boite River. There are practically no trails designed for experts, but all other skiers will enjoy the skiing. Young people love this place - it’s a great place to hang out, sit in nightclubs, and have a blast at discos. Lovers of a refined holiday will find fashionable hotels here.

In addition to skiing and snowboarding, you can go on excursions to Venice or Verona and visit local museums. In a word, this is a very beautiful and ancient resort, where everyone will be welcome - wealthy guests, young people, and families with children.

Hotels in Cortina d'Ampezzo near ski lifts:

It occupies a leading place in the list of resorts, as it unites 14 settlements located on different heights. All of them serve the ski area of ​​the same name. The center is the town of Reischach in the lower part, from where skiers begin their climb on cable cars. The trails run down from the top of the mountain in different directions, so if you wish, you can choose a “sunny” road or ride in the shade. In addition, there are two famous “black” slopes that make up the glory of the Dolomites. The ski area of ​​this resort has recently been connected to the Alta Badia resort.

Hotels in Kronplatz near ski lifts:

Here, perhaps, is the most extreme of all the resorts in the region. Experienced skiers should prefer steep mountain slopes; beginners should choose another place for training. The Marmolada glacier is located nearby; this is especially valuable for freeriders, since they can ride here throughout the year. But if beginners still come here, they should start skating under the supervision of an instructor: there are two schools here. In the village itself there are about 2 dozen small hotels. There is no influx of tourists - the resort is for professionals who are ready to ride from dark to dark.

Hotels in Arabba-Marmolada near ski lifts:

This is a whole valley that unites about 10 resorts. Skiers can note 2 places for themselves: Plose and Gitchberg. There are comfortable hotels and equipment rentals are available. People have lived in this valley since time immemorial, merchants stayed here, so they always think about guests here. They offer shops, cafes, wine cellars, and various entertainment options. And, of course, 85 km of slopes await skiers.

Sella Ronda ski route

Almost all skiers who come to the resorts of the Dolomites, at least once, pass along the famous route. This route has received various names. Some call it a “carousel”, others a “round the world”. But it really gives you the opportunity to see a lot. After all, a skier who sets off goes around the Sella mountain range in a circle. Ascents alternate with descents, but in general, the route is not difficult, and even beginners can ride here. Just be sure to take your camera with you – because you won’t see such landscapes anywhere else.

It is difficult to give directions from where and how best to get to this route. It’s worth taking a map and seeing where you are at the moment, and then finding Sella Ronda. It is marked with green and orange colors. If you are not too confident in your abilities, it is better to start on the “green” path. It goes counterclockwise, the signs are close to each other. There are about 23 km of ski slopes and 15 lifts. The difficulty is minimal and the panoramic view is very beautiful. The journey will take from 3 to 4 hours.

More experienced skiers, as well as snowboarding fans, prefer the “orange” track. It’s a little more difficult to navigate here; the signs are located further apart. There are 11 lifts in operation, and the direct length of the route is also about 23 km. On average, the route can be completed in 2.5-3 hours.

Dolomiti Superski – holiday without limits

To ensure maximum comfort for guests, 12 resorts located in the Dolomites decided to combine their ski areas. The result is simply a huge territory, which includes 1,200 km of trails served by 450 ski lifts. To take advantage of all this splendor, you need to buy one ski pass.

When is the best time to go on vacation?

People come to the resorts of the Dolomites all year round. There is plenty to do here in both the warm and cold seasons. In summer it rarely gets hot here, usually the temperature does not rise above + 25 C. You can walk, ride bicycles, go to the mountains, and just wander through the streets of ancient cities. All you have to do is carry an umbrella or a light raincoat with you - it suddenly rains. In autumn it becomes cooler, the thermometer can show + 10C, and snow often falls in November. This good time for those who expect peace and quiet from their trip, since most tourists are leaving. Mountains covered with forest are very beautiful in the first half of autumn, before the leaves fall.

In spring, the air warms up quite late - by May. This benefits skiers. But all tourists are pleased with the abundance sunny days, and whole meadows of flowers that you can admire. In winter, the Dolomites are a real Mecca for skiers. Noticeable frosts, down to -20-25 C, are rare; more often the temperature stays around -5-8 C. The bright sun provides skiers with a wonderful tan. The Dolomites are an extraordinary place on the planet. It's worth visiting here and seeing for yourself.

The Dolomites (Italian: Dolomiti) are a mountain range within the Southern Limestone Alps system, located in northeastern Italy in the provinces of Bolzano-Bozen - South Tyrol, Trento and Belluno. It extends from the Adige river valley in the west to the Piave river valley in the east, the northern and southern borders are framed by the valleys of the Pusteria and Brenta rivers. The Dolomites are special in that the deposits of colored stone that form the peaks and steep slopes turn creamy pink in the sun.


The array owes its origin to coral reefs, which formed at the bottom of an ancient shallow sea. Approximately 65 million years ago they rose from the bottom to the surface along with mountain system Alps

The mountains were originally called Monti Pallidi (Pale Mountains). Today, in the Dolomites region, there is a beautiful legend that tells the story of why the mountains have such a unique color: in order to amuse the moon princess, saddened by homesickness, who married an Alpine prince, the gnomes covered the mountains with a light blanket woven from moon rays.

The massif received its name - the Dolomites - due to the rock characteristic of them, which, in turn, was named after the famous French geologist Deod de Dolomieu. In the 1780s, he was the first to discover a unique type of mineral in the rock, called dolomite.

The total area of ​​the massif, dotted with 18 peaks whose height exceeds 3 thousand m, is 15.9 thousand km². As a result of erosion, the region's landscapes are covered with bare cliffs, sharp vertical cliffs, and long and narrow valleys. This area is also characterized by karst and glacial landforms. Due to the accumulation of ice and snow on the vast territory occupied by the massif, avalanches, floods and landslides often occur here.

The heart of the Dolomites consists of the Catinaccio mountains, the Alpe di Siusi plateau and the Marmolada mountain (3342 m), topped by the largest glacier in the region, whose area reaches 3 km². Here, in the central part of the massif, there are snowfields and more than 40 glaciers.

Deciduous and pine forests grow on the lower parts of the slopes, but most of them are covered by mountain meadows. In spring, more than 50 species of orchids bloom here wildly. The world of fauna is presented mountain goats, marmots, chamois, occasionally you can see European brown bear. Eagles, gray partridges and crows soar over the Dolomites. The forests of the lower belt are home to woodpeckers, owls and wood grouse. Local meadows are full of huge numbers of butterflies, and mountain rivers glisten with trout.

Since 2009, the Dolomites, which include several natural parks and national park The Dolomiti Bellunesi is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Dolomites region is a popular tourism destination, especially among fans of active winter recreation. There are many resort villages on the mountain slopes: Rocca Pietore, Ortisei, Alleghe, Auronzo Cadore, Cortina d'Ampezzo and Falcade, which are connected by a narrow-gauge railway.

You can get to the Dolomites by plane or by railway transport. During the ski season, which lasts from December to April, in addition to regular flights, many charter flights open to the cities closest to the massif: Bolzano, Innsbruck, Venice, Verona.

If you travel by rail, the nearest stations are along the Verona-Brennero-Innsbruck-Munich line. From there there are regular buses to all resorts in the Dolomites.

Travelers who love the resorts of such a wonderful country as Italy should at least once visit its main attraction - the Dolomites. This massif is part of the Limestone Alps system in the eastern part of the mountain range. In this section of the mountains, every tourist can find entertainment for themselves. On the territory of the Dolomites there are a large number of villages that are rich in various attractions and historical monuments. For lovers active recreation Italy fits perfectly. This is where multiple ski resorts.

The Dolomites and their attractions

Italy boasts of its wide variety of recreation: resorts, SPA salons, shopping, beaches, nightlife. The Dolomites are also no exception. If you are already here, be sure to visit the town of Malyas - Marienberg Abbey is located here. From historical sources you can find out that its foundation dates back to 1149. Due to its location in the mountains, this building is recognized as the “highest” in Europe (1340 meters above sea level). The building is made in Baroque style. A large number of frescoes have been preserved in the halls of the Abbey. Throughout all these years, the Abbey suffered attacks, destruction and robberies. And in 1418 Marienberg was completely burned. Almost immediately, work began on its restoration.

In the village of Meran there is a beautiful Tyrolean Castle - the pride of all Italy. The castle is located on the top of a mountain in the Dolomites. In this area, during excavations, a church was also discovered dating back to antiquity. The building was built in several stages. It all began in 1100 and came to an end in the second half of the 13th century. For a long time the castle was the residence of the leaders of Tyrol. At the beginning of the 18th century, part of the castle was destroyed due to cliffs, and it was sold. But already in the 19th century, work began on its restoration, and it was decided to preserve the castle as a cultural monument. Inside, the building is rich in frescoes, paintings, portals, sculptures and images of mythical heroes.

The highest peak of the Dolomites is Mount Marmolada. On the western side, the mountain forms a steep cliff, reminiscent of a smooth, even wall. Its length is several kilometers. The northern side is covered with glaciers. This is the only year in the entire Dolomites where glaciers have been preserved. The first person who was able to conquer this peak was the Austrian writer Paul Grohmann (1864). During the war years, multiple tunnels passed through these mountains. Inside there were catacombs with ammunition and uniforms. Due to global warming, glaciers are gradually thawing and the remains of ammunition and clothing of soldiers from the First World War appear on the surface of the mountains.

Other attractions are definitely worth mentioning:

  • Trauttmansdorf Castle;
  • Tre Cime di Lavaredo;
  • Cinque Torri;
  • Parish Church;
  • Lake Santa Croce.

Ski resorts of the Dolomites

All the highest quality ski resorts in Italy are gathered here. There are 12 ski regions here, and about 40 resorts. So everyone can choose the right one for themselves. The trails here are quite extensive, with plenty of room to roam. The trails of all resorts are conveniently combined into unified system lifts. Italy is famous for its resort in the Dolomites, Val di Fasa. Both residents of Italy and visiting tourists strive to get here. This attraction is located in the town of Trentino. Here are the most high-quality tracks and convenient transport interchange in the entire Dolomites.
A wide variety of routes allows you not to repeat the routes, but to choose something new and unknown for yourself every day. And by purchasing a special pass, you can visit any slopes of this ski resort and lifts at any time. Val di Fasa is perfect for both professionals and beginners. The most famous ski area of ​​this resort is Tre Valley. For beginners, shorter trails with a soft descent are recommended. This area is located between Vigo di Fassa, Pera di Fassa and Pozza di Fassa. In one of this villages (Pozza di Fassa) there are mineral springs. So the Alps will help every tourist not only to actively relax, but also to improve their health. These ski resorts have a lot of entertainment:

  • Luge tracks;
  • Open and closed skating rinks;
  • Sports complexes;
  • Trails for children;
  • Winter kindergartens.

For lovers nightlife there is a wide variety of nightclubs, bars and restaurants. In this small town in Italy, the famous Andrea Soparetta gallery holds annual exhibitions where handmade products are presented. All resort hotels are presented to choose from - from a cozy budget house to luxurious apartments of a five-star hotel. Not far from the resort, just forty minutes by bus, there are cities such as Milan, Venice, Verona.

Italy and the Dolomites boast a real paradise - the ski resort of Val Gardena. This mountain range is located on the border of Germany, Italy and Austria. This zone has its three centers: Selva, Ortisei and Santa Cristina. A holiday in this valley is perfect for spending time with the whole family. Here all the slopes are quite soft and there are many places for entertainment. This is where Italian schoolchildren go for the winter holidays. Many trails are equipped for children different ages. There are also trails for snowboarders and cross-country skiers. The nature of this area has the greatest beauty. To get here, you should know the location of this area: Milan - 300 km, Bolzano - 40 km, Venice - 250 km, Rome - 700 km.
In this valley there are also trails for real professionals, which any confident tourist can visit. It is in this part of Italy that all world alpine skiing championships are held. It will be important information for travelers that the instructors here do not speak Russian. Therefore, it is worth improving your Italian, German or English. If you decide to go along all the routes to common system lifts, then first check their operating hours. Because you risk making a mistake and going to the hotel by taxi, for whose services you will have to pay a lot of money.
A picturesque skiing region in the Dolomites is Alta Badia. This territory is famous for its pink mountain peaks. The ski resorts here are as follows: Corvara, Colfosco, San Cassiano, La Val. It is in this valley that the Sella Ronda circular route is located. Corvala is the liveliest resort of the Dolomites. A large number of restaurants, clubs, bars, and cinemas are concentrated here. Local trails are multi-level. By purchasing a ski pass you can visit all four resorts using a common lift system. This service will allow you to save a lot of money.

Other Dolomites ski resorts also deserve attention:

  • Tre Valley - length of trails 100 km;
  • Val di Fiemme - length of pistes 107 km;
  • Cortina d'Ampezzo - 140 km;
  • Kronplatz;
  • Arabba–Marmolada;
  • Valle Isarco.

Italy is a diverse country that you should definitely visit in your life. Italy receives great opportunities and privileges because of the Alps located on its territory. Significant replenishment of the country's budget is determined precisely by the presence of tourism infrastructure. The Dolomites bring revenue into Italy's budget all year round.

I was lucky enough to visit the Dolomites twice - in autumn and summer. I will begin my report on this stunning mountainous UNESCO World Heritage Site with a trip in November.
Through the window, through the darkness and clouds, the snow-capped peaks of the foothills are visible Italian Alps. The plane is landing in Bergamo, it is eleven o'clock in the evening. Having received our 500 Fiat at the airport, we go to the hotel in the Old Town.
Waking up before dawn, I hurried to the walls of the Sitta Alta to admire the beautiful morning view from them.

Bergamo is a very beautiful and cozy town with beautiful, varied architecture and a unique atmosphere. Old part The city is located on top of a hill. After having a snack, I climb to the very top high mountain from there to look at the Cathedral, the Church of St. Mary Maggiori and the Palace of the Mind. The foggy view turned out to be just what we needed

In November, nature here is replete with rich and bright autumn colors, and the trees beckon to pick their ripe, beautiful and juicy fruits. It’s a pity that only my long-focus lens could reach this persimmon.

Before leaving for the Dolomites, we decided to take a walk around the center of the main city. On Sundays there is a festive atmosphere here: fairs are everywhere, folk festivals and entertainment.

We take the Venice highway, then go north. The road gradually gains altitude, we turn into Riva del Garda.
The exploration of this picturesque place begins from the observation deck. From here you have a magnificent view of the northern part of Lake Garda. This is where the foothills end and the real Alps begin.

The ancient town of Riva del Garda is very cozy and well-kept. No wonder he is considered one of the best places holidays in Italy. But now is not the season. On the almost deserted streets you can only meet lonely pensioners and fishermen. All cafes and restaurants are closed. The picturesque embankment is unusually deserted.

As soon as I took bread out of my backpack, all the birds from the area immediately flew away. The sparrows, seagulls and pigeons were so hungry that they snatched pieces right out of our hands and fought for every crumb.

But we need to move further towards Austria. The beauty of the mountains in autumn is amazing. Clouds hang over the well-groomed green slopes, yellow vineyards add contrast to the already picturesque pictures. The Alps at this time of year resemble puzzles, the pattern of which on each individual mountain is original.

The most beautiful medieval castles and houses are built on almost every rock, right under the clouds.

Before Bolzano, we left the highway and climbed the serpentine road into the mountains to enjoy the beautiful scenery, take a walk and breathe the purest mountain air. Beauty surrounds us on all sides, and we are among the clouds.

It's time to go down to Bolzano. After walking around a bit and having dinner, we went to the hotel to sleep. The next morning we were to find ourselves in Dandelion Valley...

It's dark outside. Thick clouds surrounded the mountain valley of the city of Bolzano. There is a light drizzle outside. The soft and warm bed does not let me out of its embrace into the cool and damp autumn mountains. As much as I don’t want it, I have to get up and follow the planned program. After breakfast, we leave for one of the most beautiful places in the Dolomites, this is Dandelion Valley. Having left the main road, we rushed up the seemingly endless mountain serpentine. The dark sky, which had recently hung overhead, now appeared before my eyes. It gets light very slowly. The higher we rise, the denser the clouds become.

To be honest, I imagined the morning in Dandelion Valley in a different light (orange sun, curly clouds and other beauty). But now it’s the end of November outside the window - a time of heavy snowfalls. The weather makes its own adjustments and we have to be content with such a cloudy and foggy morning.

In the Dandelion Valley there is a wonderful village - Santa Magdalena. After some wandering we find ourselves there. Friendly locals in Tyrolean attire are already wishing us good morning. Some of them are already chopping wood at such an early hour, and some are starting the tractor, the workers have begun repairing the road, a team of woodcutters is ready to go to the plot. A police car also showed up. Why is she in these parts? This is probably the most peaceful place on the entire planet - it would be better if they were sent somewhere to Sicily :)

Santa Magdalena is a very pleasant and quiet place at the foot of magnificent mountain ranges, with beautiful alpine houses, many beautiful flowers on the streets in summer time, households, churches, rivers. We climb to the observation deck to admire the fantastic view of the mountain peaks. Below in the frame you can see the wonderful three-thousanders: Sass Rigais and Furchetta, which did not dare to peek out from behind the clouds :) Sad, but still beautiful.

I had to turn on the “time machine” and move forward seven months. I found myself in someone's garden without permission and was impressed by the sunset light. And you, dear readers, which view do you like best?

Sharp dolomite teeth strive to grab some lush cloud, shining with a stunningly beautiful rainbow in the warm evening light. Such beauty is everywhere here.

The Chapel of St. Johann stands alone and modestly on a spacious alpine meadow.

Let’s finish our inspection of this most picturesque valley, in which I never saw dandelions.
We go back down and then climb the most beautiful Alpine passes.

We had to go around the Sella Group mountain range twice. Having climbed a little uphill, the road forked, and the sign read: “If you go left, you will get to the Passo Gardena pass, if you go right, you will get to the Passo Sella pass.”
In November the lot fell on Sella. From 1500 meters the road rose through the clouds to the 2200 mark. The snow increased with each turn of the road. From somewhere out of the clouds, illuminated by the sun, creamy sheer cliffs could be seen.

One thing was good - the road was cleared, and there was only ice in places. The magnificent view of the winter snow-capped Alps was worth such an extreme trip. Having risen above the clouds, we saw the sun for the first time in 2 days.

Having left this pass and overcome a couple more similar ones, we finally found ourselves in the capital of winter olympic games 1956 - the city of Cortina d'Ampezzo. This is a panoramic view of the city and mountain valley.

I’m returning to my “time machine”... It’s July again. At the fork in Val Gardena I turn left. It's already dark. I climb to the 2100 mark, to the Passo Gardena pass. Despite the middle of summer, it’s only +4 outside. I spend the night in a hotel at the pass.

The morning begins, as always, early. Climbing onto one of the slopes, a magnificent view of the serpentine rising from the Gardena Valley opened up in front of me

This beautiful chapel on the pass was built already in this century. It fits well into the beautiful mountain landscape.

Next to it are these barracks (or maybe huts or barns). If it weren’t for the mountains in the background, I would have thought that this was the Russian outback, and not the center of Europe.

After leaving Passo Gardena, I headed along a winding and narrow gorge to the village of La Valle.

The smell of manure, which is dumped here right along the road, immediately made me feel the village flavor. But it in no way affected the positive impression of this wonderful place.

Having climbed to the very top, the road ended, I got out of the car to admire the magnificent view of the mountain valley. A black domestic cat kept me company.

La Valle reminded me a lot of Dandelion Valley. Very beautiful place, where you can be away from the urban jungle, breathe clean mountain air and admire fantastic mountain landscapes.

I won’t linger here, there is still a very busy program ahead. After making a couple more stops, I headed further. After driving another 15 kilometers, the road took me to the banks of the Rienza River.

The next place I visited was the pearl of the Dolomites - Lago di Braes. It is located at an altitude of almost 1500 meters above sea level. Anyone planning a route through the Alpine corners of Italy should definitely visit here.

Having difficulty finding a space in three equipped parking lots, I went for a walk along the shore of the emerald lake. People are brought here by bus, so you don’t feel lost far in the mountains. The path along the lake resembles the sidewalk of a decent city.

However, this in no way detracts from the beauty of Lago di Braes and does not cause discomfort.
You can walk around the lake in about an hour, covering a distance of about 5 kilometers. It’s a pity that the weather was cloudy without a single hint of daylight.

After taking a walk, I headed to the car, but a nearby cafe beckoned me with fresh and fragrant pastries, so I had to stay here for half an hour to have lunch and then visit another lake located nearby. Meet Lake Dobyakko (Toblakh Si)

In November, we experienced a terrible snowfall here, but we looked at the beautiful swans, which were supposed to fly away towards the warm Adriatic any day now.

Directly here it’s only 150 kilometers.

My route was built in a different way, but a camera tripod forgotten in La Valle made adjustments and the next place I found myself in was the Valparola Pass and the lake of the same name. There is still snow on the pass even in July.

After admiring Lake Valparola from above, I decided to come closer to its shore.
As soon as I got closer, I noticed some kind of creature scurrying around near the shore. From a distance it was difficult to identify him. The “long” lens, reserved for such cases, helped me.

I read on the Internet that if you are very lucky, you can meet Alpine marmots in the Dolomites, so it turns out that I was lucky. However, as soon as I tried to get closer to him, he immediately hid behind numerous stones. This photo is from the series find the groundhog :)

Now I’ll tell you about another Dolomites lake. From the city of Bolzano there is a direct road to it, which begins with a three-kilometer tunnel. The lake itself is about 25 kilometers away. On the way I make a stop in Welschnofen to take a closer look at the interesting chapel.

This lake is called Karreza and it greeted me very cloudy and rainy in places.
Hopes for good weather there was almost none, so we had to be content with such corpulent species

I decided to go back and have a coffee in the parking lot. The miracle happened in about 15 minutes. The clouds suddenly retreated and the sun finally illuminated the water surface of the lake.

This shot “The Lattemar mountain range in the reflection of Lake Carreza” took second place in one of the NG photo competitions.

Having wandered around the Dolomites enough, I headed towards probably the most picturesque mountain range, Tre Cime Di Lavaredo, to meet the Alpine sunset there. Having safely crossed the Tre Croci pass, I found myself near Lake Misurina. Standing on the shore of Misurina with a cup of tea and hot apple strudel, bought in a store on a nearby street, I admire the stunning view of the mountain lake.

Having traveled only a few kilometers up, I found myself on another lake called Antorno.

Nice ponies stroll leisurely along the shore and nibble on the juicy and, most likely, very tasty alpine grass, but they were still afraid to come close to me.

Carpets of colorful and fragrant alpine flowers and herbs surround almost all the shores of this fabulous lake. The weather was magnificent, and towards evening it finally cleared up.

Risking missing the last rays of the long-awaited sun, I climb up from Antorno.A barrier blocks my way. I paid 20 euro rubles. Having wound 15 turns of the serpentine I was already familiar with, I found myself somewhere in a rain cloud, and the thermometer was again +4. Auronzo's hostel-shelter, located 100 meters from me, was barely visible. Hello, we've arrived! Where is the sun that was shining in my face 10 minutes ago? Where is the sunset and the most important question: where, in fact, is the trident of Tre Cime di Lavaredo itself? Of course, I’m not one of those people who gets discouraged, but I clearly wanted to see something else here. Having left some things at the shelter, I went straight to the cloud for luck in the hope of seeing at least something...

After walking half a kilometer, the cloud suddenly ended, and the majestic mountain peaks of Lavaredo loomed above me. On the way, I came across this beautiful chapel, which was built right on the edge of the abyss. The area of ​​light around her seemed very symbolic to me.

Stunning mountain landscapes are everywhere here, just have time to turn your head and press the camera buttons. After jumping over a small pass, I finally saw Tre Cime from the other side. I saw it exactly as I had imagined it. This is what a sunset in the Alps is like.

However, the miracle did not last long; in this light I was able to take only a few shots as the sun first disappeared behind the clouds and then behind the neighboring mountain peaks. But thanks for that too. At the foot there are three small lakes “no name” with crystal clear glacial water.

I had to reach Auronzo's shelter before dark. The route “around Tre Cime” turned out to be about nine kilometers.

The next place I will visit is the magnificent Lake Federa, hidden in the mountains.

After Cortina, D’Ampezzo had to slow down and look for the right path. Fortunately, there was an information stand and signs near it. Leaving the car right on the side of the road, I began the six-kilometer climb.

At first the track was relatively flat and passed near a beautiful mountain gorge.
Having crossed the bridge, I came across a very steep mountain, which I had to climb. A challenge worthy of a good workout.

I have already seen a lot of things in the Dolomites, but Feder will be remembered for its unique and unlike anything else landscapes and atmosphere of alpine tranquility.

I got down to the car much faster and headed towards the already mentioned Valparola Pass. Having not reached it a little, I left the car in the parking lot next to the deployed division of NATO troops and began the two-kilometer climb to Lake Limides.

Along the way, I repeatedly came across fortifications from the First World War. Due to its accessibility, this route is very popular, especially among tourists with children.

Lake Limides is not very large - only 100 meters in length.
It is surrounded on all sides by magnificent mountain ranges. The springs bubbling up at the bottom of the lake create the illusion of heterogeneity and multi-colored water.

The Cinque Torri mountain is just a stone's throw from here.

You can climb to its foot either by ski lift or by car. Since the ski lift ends quite early, I drove up the mountain by car. The one-kilometer walk to the foot of the Cinque Torri, naturally, was not difficult.

There is an open-air museum of the First World War here. There are trenches and dugouts everywhere.
The dugouts have been reconstructed, mannequins of soldiers and replicas of weapons from those times are on display.

The highest peak has a height of 2361 meters. About five years ago, this massif was partially destroyed - a huge block of stone broke off from the second peak and fell.
Climbers constantly train on the steep cliffs of the Cinque.

This is the last place from my report.
I planned to stay here until late in the evening, but the fickle wind again brought in numerous clouds from somewhere, and it began to rain. Realizing that this was the Dolomites’ way of saying “goodbye!” to me, I got into the car and set off on a multi-hour drive to the Adriatic coast...