Caution rx 6006 chandelier fan circuit. Ceiling Fan Connection

A fan, like any other electrical device, sometimes tends to break down; the stator winding in it most often burns out. But this is not at all a reason to send him into retirement. In this article, we will talk about the practice of repairing household fans.

We begin the disassembly process by removing the fan cover; hidden under it is a small single-phase squirrel-cage rotor with a power of 20 watts. Let me remind you that the rotor is a moving part of an electric motor that rotates due to . Thereby driving the blades of our fan.

The stator is a static winding that is located on steel core electric motor. The stator converts alternating current into a rotating magnetic field.

Upon external inspection, of course, it is difficult to break down any device if there is no obvious signs the damage speaks for itself. In our example, we need to test the stator winding and power cord for integrity. The easiest way to do this is with a regular multimeter, which should be in the tool arsenal of any radio amateur. You can learn how to use a multimeter correctly.

After a series of measurements, it turned out that the power cord in our in perfect order, and the stator winding of a household fan simply burned out. To repair it yourself, we will need to partially disassemble the engine. The stator winding can be removed quite easily using a regular screwdriver by driving it in with uniform blows in the places indicated by the arrows in the photo.

After successfully dismantling the stator winding, you can move on to mathematics, namely, calculating the number of turns for the motor stator winding.

For a simplified calculation, you can use the following algorithm as a basis:

The voltage in a normal alternating current network is 220 Volts, the engine power is 20 Watts, the cross section of the core is 1.2 cm 2, the current passing through the coil will be 0.09 A. (based on the well-known formula I=P/U).

The cross-section of a typical wire can be calculated using the following formula:

If we convert the cross-sectional area of the wire from 0.03 mm 2 to the diameter of the wire, we end up with: d = 0.19 mm

I borrowed the winding wire from a coil of a magnetic starter with a diameter of 0.17 mm since I don’t know how to lay the required number of turns on the coil frame.

In the latter case: U – mains voltage, S c – core cross-section, B c – magnetic permeability of iron (maximum 14,000 hectares).

As soon as we calculate the number of turns, we can start winding. It is difficult to wind so many turns around the core manually, so I recommend using a homemade one.

After the coil is made, it is necessary to impregnate it with a special impregnation varnish, otherwise the insulation of the wires in it may be damaged.

After the varnish has dried, you need to install the coil back. If, after assembly and testing, problems arise with the direction of rotation of the blades, then you only need to remove the rotor and install it on the other end of the core. Alternatively, you can pull out the stator coil again, rotate it 180 degrees and install it back.

In the figure above, short-circuited turns are marked with red arrows; the magnetic field rotating the blades, which acts on the rotor, will be concentrated on them.

In order to find the cause of the fan failure, it is necessary to disassemble it, as in the previous example. This is quite easy to do. First, we remove the protective grille, then take out the blades or impeller, which is usually secured with a special nut. Then you need to dismantle the other part of the protective grille and unscrew the screws of the cover.

I also recommend studying the typical circuit diagram of a floor fan. Typically, it uses an asynchronous electric motor with 8 windings (working and starting). To successfully start the engine, it is necessary to create a phase shift of 90 degrees. For this purpose, the circuit contains a capacitor. The circuit will work after pressing the power button, the indicator lamp should light up and the blades begin to rotate, the motor rotation speed depends on the connection diagram of the windings, using a switch.

First you need to check the serviceability of the network cable. Then execute to start the engine. It is also recommended to check the integrity of the contacts and wires. If a hum or noise is heard while the fan is operating, then you need to lubricate it with Litol thick lubricant.

Electric motor repair begins with lubrication of the bearings, usually after this the fan begins to work well. Machine oil can be used for lubrication.

A fairly typical malfunction is a break in one of the stator windings. To check, you can sharply rotate the blades in the direction of rotation clockwise. If the fan starts working, it means one of the windings has burned out.

The service life of the electric motor is reduced several times if you do not clean it of dust, or if you forget to lubricate the bearings or gearbox.

The connection plan for a fan with a chandelier is convenient. This device combines two devices in one, providing general lighting of the room and creating air movement in hot, windless weather, while saving on air conditioning. Most often, such fans are located in office buildings or small rented workshops, but they can also be located in everyday life. When purchasing such a fan, make sure that instructions are included with the kit. Previously, manufacturers added a section to it about the operation scheme, but due to frequent cases of copying, they stopped doing this.

But if you don’t go into details, the plan for connecting the ventilation inside the chandelier is quite simple. The illuminator has a built-in motor, which can be turned on either by a separate switch or by combinations of switching on (restart), or together with the illuminator. The latter fan connection scheme is not recommended for use and is quite rare. It is not recommended due to the limitations of this scheme - when the lighting is turned on, the fan always works, which cold weather unnecessary. The recommended connection diagram is separate, when the operation of each function is regulated by its own switch.

A simple diagram for connecting a fan and chandelier

If you are choosing a fan with a chandelier for your home or home workshop, pay attention to the method of grounding the chandelier; in apartments it is TN-C. In office buildings or change houses, grounding methods may vary, so mistakes can be made. The required number of wires connected to the fan and panel depends on grounding. Attention, TT type grounding should under no circumstances come into contact with other electrical devices. If we talk about the TN-C system, then two cables, phase and neutral, will be pulled through the shield to the illuminator.

It will be necessary to connect zero and PE to the distributor via terminals. Attention: Observe safety precautions. When working with electrical appliances, it is necessary to turn off the power and check with a multimeter that there is no voltage on the wires. Only after this start working. Use terminals to connect the wires on the distributor; do not twist them under any circumstances.

In new houses it is already possible to use the TN-S grounding system. Its use is recommended and is a priority to ensure safety.

The use of TN-S implies the presence in the electrical wiring of a three-core copper cable, one of the cores of which serves to ground the circuit and is connected to the ground electrode in the distribution panel. Accordingly, the device must have a grounding cable that connects to this core. The fan connection diagrams are different, but it is not possible to describe all of them. When purchasing, read the instructions and use the recommendations provided.

During the hottest summer days, the only salvation from the sweltering heat is an ordinary floor fan.

Not everyone can afford a full-fledged split system or even a mobile air conditioner.

But unfortunately, even this inexpensive and accessible wind blower breaks down from time to time. Chinese models especially fly like seeds.

And there is an overwhelming majority of them in our market. What to do if the fan stops rotating and working? What are its main problems and why does it break down?

Let's take a closer look.

Why doesn't the fan work?

In total, there are 5 main reasons for the failure of floor fans:

old dried grease or lack of it

dried out capacitor

blown thermal relay or fuse

turn short circuit of windings or wire breakage

mechanical displacement of the motor shaft

The main problem of cheap models, which for some reason few people pay attention to, is incorrect casting of the blades. Because of this, an imbalance occurs, bearings break, and gaps increase.

You cannot influence this in any way, since you already bought a fan with such an initial defect. Sometimes it seems to work, the impeller rotates normally, but it does not blow.

That is, there is no cooling air flow from it. Why is this happening?

Due to the incorrect angle of attack of the blades. Its petals are deformed and drive the air flow in a circle, rather than throwing it out.

This effect can appear over time, after the fan has been standing in direct sunlight for a long time and its impeller, having heated up, begins to gradually change its shape.

This can only be treated by replacing the impeller with a new one.

Floor fan does not spin

The most common problem is dried out lubricant or lack of it. The fan begins to jam, lose speed and, as a result, the load on the engine increases. The wind blower no longer operates at full capacity.

The motor, wound with a thin wire of 0.2 mm, begins to heat up and the windings gradually burn out.

How is such a defect detected? In this case, the fan stops rotating. It hums, but the impeller does not spin.

It also happens that it starts only at 3rd speed, and does not respond at all to the first two. It just doesn't have enough power to turn the shaft.

In order to start it, you have to brazenly spin the blades like on old airplanes.

By the way, the same symptom can occur if the starting capacitor is damaged. Without instruments, how can you find out which reason is to blame for the breakdown?

To do this, you need to at least get to the engine shaft by removing the protective casing and blades. If the shaft rotates by hand with great difficulty, then blame dirt and dried grease.

And if it spins easily and has inertia, then most likely the air conditioner is covered. Symptom - plugged in the fan, but it does not spin. At the same time, you crank the engine up and it starts.

If you hold the fan blades with your hand while working, it may stop again. The capacitor is checked with a multimeter if it has an appropriate capacitance measurement scale.

To replace, select a new condenser according to the same parameters as indicated on the body of the old one.

By the way, a capacitor that is not yet completely dry also affects the speed. If you notice that they have fallen and the fan has begun to spin more slowly, this is a sign to check it.

The problem of tight rotation is solved by new lubrication of the bearings. So-called plain bearings are used here. Some people call them bushings.

It’s a bit expensive to use balls in such designs, and they rattle over time. For repairs, it is not at all necessary to disassemble the entire engine. Just unscrew a few screws and spray the required areas with WD40 universal aerosol.

How to disassemble a fan - instructions with photos

How to get to the bushings without removing the engine? To begin, unscrew the central screw on the back wall of the protective casing.

Another self-tapping screw is hidden in the adjustment button-lever for turning or stopping the fan head.

After this, the back cover can be easily removed from its place. What's underneath? Here you can see the rotation gearbox that gives rotation to the entire head.

A special rod connects to it from below.

The starting capacitor of the engine is fixed on top.

By the way, keep in mind that it may not be there in different models. In this case, look for it near the speed shift buttons.

To access the motor bearing, you will need to remove the gearbox. It is secured with three screws and supported from below by a rod.

Tighten the screws and disconnect the rod. After this, the gearbox is removed from the shaft and you have access to the rear bushing.

There is no need to unscrew or disassemble anything else. Vedashka will do the rest for you.

Place a narrow guide tube on the WD40 can and poke it several times into the gap between the shaft and the bearing.

After spraying WD40, turn the shaft by hand different sides and move it back and forth a little.

Excess thickened grease, foreign debris and dust will gradually come out. This excess dirt can be easily removed with cotton swabs.

If you have a thick lubricant like cyatim or litol, it is advisable to apply it to the gear worm. After these cleaning procedures, drop a few drops of sewing machine oil onto the bearing from the outside.

Just don't apply it too much. Otherwise, it will eventually spread all over and dust will stick to it, turning back into dirt. As a result, you will again get a wedge and a problem with fan rotation.

In some models, felt washers are placed near the bushings. They are saturated with oil and when heated, the oil flows onto the shaft, lubricating it.

Everything is assembled in reverse order. Rod - three gearbox screws - outer cover.

By the way, if you overtighten the central screw on the back cover, and this is a self-tapping screw, not a screw, it can pass through the plastic of the rotary gearbox and rest against the shaft.

You will again have problems with revs and jamming. Sometimes the cause of a breakdown is trivial and unpredictable.

We've sorted out the rear bearing, then move on to the front part of the fan. There is a protective cap in the center here.

It unscrews, attention - clockwise, since the thread here is left-handed.

You throw it off and remove the propeller from the shaft. You now have access to the front journal bearing.

The principle is the same here. First, squeeze out and soften the old grease and dirt with a Vedashka, and then apply new one.

After that, put the propeller back on and close the lid. Having completed the repair, turn on the fan at high speeds, let it run for a few minutes, and switch to the speed required.

Short circuit of windings or broken wires

If the damage is more complex and simple lubrication does not help, you will have to disassemble the fan in more detail.

First, you do all the disassembly machinations as indicated above. After removing the propeller, unscrew the plastic front lock nut, which is located immediately behind it, and remove the entire protective frame.

In your hands you still have the motor itself and the leg in which the power wires pass and the push-button mechanism is located.

You disassemble this leg by unscrewing 6 screws.

First of all, check the soldering of the wires. It is quite possible that one of them, or even several, has fallen off or burned off.

If everything is intact, how can you tell which wire? where is he going and what is he responsible for? Start testing with two wires from the power plug.

One of them, let it be black (as in the photo below), goes directly through the backlight to the fan motor.

The second wire goes to the lower terminal of the dial switch (button 0).

Next, by pressing the corresponding buttons - 1st speed, 2nd, 3rd, certain switch contacts are closed, and thereby the engine speed changes.

Each wire from these buttons goes to its own terminal on the winding, with a greater or lesser number of turns. By applying voltage to them, you make the propeller spin faster or slower.

Floor fan connection diagram

A simplified diagram of a wind blower looks like this.

Typical circuits for most inexpensive 3-speed floor fans are something like this:

Pressing each button is accompanied by the closure of its contact group.

In this case, the other contact group opens at this moment.

Sometimes these contacts burn out or do not reach their plate. Then you lose any of the speeds.

All this is checked simply with a Chinese multimeter, in circuit continuity mode.

If your very first wire breaks or there is no contact on it, the fan motor simply will not start. Therefore, if the fan is completely inoperative, check it first.

Unless, of course, before you make sure that the plug itself and the power cord from it are working properly. This is also caused by the tester.

Place one end of the probes on the pin of the plug, and touch the other end to the contact pad on the “0” button. If working properly, there should be zero resistance.

Then you can check the wires in the same way at all speeds. A contact probe on the plug - another probe on the outgoing wire from the corresponding speed button to the engine.

If there are zeros everywhere, then the switch and wires are working.

Next, check the second contact on the plug and the wiring that goes directly past the switch to the engine. Make sure your cord is intact here too.

Only after this can you proceed to checking the windings of the motor itself.

How to check fan windings

Set the resistance on the multimeter to 2000 ohms. Next, in order not to bite the wires anywhere, at the place where the capacitor is connected, strip off the insulation a little.

Look for the common point of the circuit, as in the diagram below.

Having found it, you call up the resistance of the winding. To do this, touch the contacts on the switch with the second probe one by one.

Approximate fan winding resistance values can be as follows:

Of course, they may differ slightly for different models, but the most important thing is that there is no breakage or short circuit. Measurements can show either several hundred Ohms or a little more than 1 kOhm.

It all depends on the power of the fan and the cross-section of the wire.

The resistance between the terminals of the windings will be lower - 100-200 Ohms.

The capacitor winding and the total resistance of all windings combined are also checked.

Here is the most competent and complete video on checking the performance of fan windings with a multimeter.

If checking the integrity of the windings also does not reveal any deviations or defects, move on. To do this, you completely disassemble the fan, as they say, piece by piece.

Engine disassembly and malfunction

First, the engine must be freed of all plastic parts. Unscrew the 4 screws from the front side and remove the cover.

On new models, in addition to screws, there are also latches. They need to be bent with a screwdriver.

To disconnect the leg, you need to find another screw, which is usually hidden under the plug.

Loosen it and pull out the mounting shaft. To dismantle the wires that pass through the leg, you will need to bite them out or unsolder them from the terminal blocks on the speed buttons.

At the same time, write down or sketch where each one is initially connected.

As a result, you should have a bare fan motor in your hands without anything unnecessary.

Let's take it apart. Unscrew the screws holding the back cover together.

At the same time, before disassembling, be sure to put marks on all covers and hardware indicating how everything was originally assembled.

Otherwise, after incorrect docking, you will lose alignment. There will be problems with the shaft wedging and the rotation of the blades.

Thermal safety relay malfunction

After removing the bearing, you get to the windings themselves. Among the bundle of power wires coming from the switch, look for a special thermal relay.

Very often the engine stops working after it burns out. This relay should operate and open the circuit at a winding temperature of 135-145 degrees.

After cooling, the relay closes again and the fan starts. So, sometimes it burns out completely and actually plays the role of a fuse.

If your fan often turns off and starts again on its own, this protection is to blame. Know that it doesn't just work. This means that your shaft is either jammed or the windings are exhausted and they are overheating.

Overheating of the windings may be associated with the destruction of the small impeller, which is located on the shaft inside the motor itself. It is designed to blow air and reduce the temperature of the coils.

The cheapest models do not have a temperature sensor-relay; everything is connected directly. Based on this, if your “thermal fuse” has burned out, you can, of course, bypass it and start the wind blower. But at the same time you will be left without fire protection.

This relay is also checked by the tester.

There should be a chain between its legs in continuity mode.

Shaft displacement and broken turns

If all the parts and relays inside are intact, all that remains is to carefully examine the windings, shaft and rotor through a magnifying glass. You may see broken or damaged copper strands.

This happens when a bearing jumps out of its seat and the rotor begins to hit the windings.

With modern Chinese floor fans, the screw connection between the two halves of the motor quite often loosens. Do not forget that the shaft on both sides is fitted with self-centering copper-graphite bushings, which are tightly locked in the covers.

When assembling and tightening them, you can lightly tap the transformer iron itself with a hammer so that the shaft rotates easily, with little inertia. Someone tries to catch the center on their own and creates such a quiet horror.

Eventually the shaft falls out of the bearing, resulting in a wedge. As a result, the rotor begins to scratch the windings and its surface.

Also keep in mind that if your fan fell and then stopped working and rotating, then the bushings are most likely misaligned here too. Nothing else can break from such a fall.

This will not damage the capacitor, and the windings covered with varnish will not break. Perhaps some buttons may move away. But first of all, check the alignment of the bearings. And then everything will work as it should.

Unfortunately, you cannot cope with a mechanical defect in the windings or rotor, as well as their intra-turn short circuits. It is not rational to rewind the engines of cheap wind blowers; it will be much easier to buy a new model.

However, this is already last stage check, and there is hope that you will never get to it, having found the damage somewhere else using the methods discussed above.

When producing cheap models, the manufacturer saves on the quality of materials, so they break more often than their more expensive counterparts. If the fan stops working, then do not rush to throw it away, because restoring its functionality in most cases will not require much time and financial costs.

I won't dwell on mechanical failures. such as repair of the impeller, housing, turning mechanism, etc. To eliminate these breakdowns, you simply need to restore the worn or broken part or replace it with a new one. This article will discuss issues related to repairing the electrical part of the fan, in which the electric motor does not turn on or operates with a hum, unpleasant odors scorched or jammed. A more complex floor model will be taken for consideration. Built-in exhaust fans are much simpler in design, due to the absence of a speed switching unit, so they are even easier to repair. But repairs, given the price of a simple model exhaust fan without bells and whistles it is impractical.

For that to find the reason If the fan is malfunctioning, it will need to be disassembled. Doing this yourself will be quite simple and quick. First remove the protective grille, then the fan blades or impeller, which is secured with a nut. Next, you need to remove the second part of the protective grille and unscrew the screws of the cover.

Troubleshooting when repairing a household fan

Before you start repairs You need to study the principle diagram of the device with your own hands.

As a rule, an asynchronous electric motor is installed in a floor fan, consisting of eight windings (working and starting). A 90 degree phase shift is required for successful launch. For these purposes, a capacitor is installed. The device starts to work after pressing the power button, after which the indicator light lights up and the motor starts, the rotation speed of which depends on the winding switching circuit, which is controlled by a 3-speed switch with a mechanical lock for the simultaneous activation of several buttons, which may cause short circuits.

Before you start checking the motor:

Straightaway it is necessary to check the serviceability of the cord connection to an electrical outlet. To do this, you must first disassemble the switch block, and then, in compliance with electrical safety measures, use a multimeter to check the presence of 220 Volts at the contacts of the light bulb.
Check the condition of the capacitor By .
Ring for integrity and check the reliability of all wire contacts and connections in the circuit.
If you hear a hum when the fan is running or noise, then lubricate with Litol or Solid Oil plastic parts inside the gearbox through the holes that are specially provided for this purpose.
Check availability of 220 Volts at the output with the switch button turned on.

Fan motor repair

You need to start repairing the electric motor yourself by lubricating the bearings, very often after this the fan begins to work normally. The motor shaft rotates in plastic bushings. Machine oil is suitable for lubrication - drop a couple of drops of oil at an angle so that it flows into the inside of the bushing, and then rotate the shaft back and forth along the axis until it begins to rotate easily.

Possibility of rotor failure engine is relatively small and in my repair practice household appliances I haven’t encountered it yet, because EMF is induced in the rotor (current arises) under the influence of the stator windings.

Often in electric motors household fans there is a break in one of the stator windings. If even one winding is broken, then the engine will not work at all. To check, simply turn the blades sharply clockwise. Just immediately quickly remove your hand from the blades to avoid injury. If after this the floor fan starts working, it means one of the windings has burned out. Please note that if the winding connected to the capacitor breaks, the fan will not work in any case. To determine the integrity of all windings, I recommend testing them with a multimeter. Please note that the winding resistance should not be too high or zero.

Very important Before disconnecting the wires from the windings, do not confuse them when connecting them, so before removing the wires, apply distinctive markings on them if they are the same color. Before removing wires or starting to disassemble any devices with my own hands, I always take photographs of all stages. If you then have questions or doubts during assembly, then photographs are a great help.

If the stator winding is broken or burnt out Considering the price of a floor or built-in fan, I do not recommend rewinding or repairing the winding. In this case, it is more advisable to buy a new model.

The service life of the fan motor is reduced several times, if you do not periodically clean it from dust and dirt, and also if you do not lubricate the bearings or gearbox.

Related materials:

Hello, the engine is noisy but does not turn over.

Victoria:

Hello. Help please. The floor fan broke, and I, pregnant, am dying from the heat. It worked, and then it just started humming and the impeller wouldn't spin. What to do?
Yuri:

It's a shame! I didn't do anything... I read the instructions, dripped some oil and the fan started working like new. Thank you!
Andrey:

Good afternoon! I read the entire thread and to be honest, I saw only one similarity with my problem, but I’m not completely sure.
So there was a fan, an ordinary kEtai. I bought it when I was in Bulgaria, brought it home. It worked... Then it stopped starting, it hummed when turned on and started only with the pusher. It spun and then began to stop sometimes. It helped to stop again with the pusher, but with turning on overdrive) 2 or 3. Then I disassembled it, washed it and lubricated it. It started working without a pusher, but with a loss of power in all modes. At speed 3 it works like at speed 1 approximately.
I have two options. Either a capacitor or one winding. I haven’t figured out how to ring it yet. Thanks in advance
Marseilles:

Hello! I have this problem, the fan was spinning, then I turned it off, moved it to another room, after a couple of hours I turn it on, and suddenly it spins slowly, after a couple of minutes it stopped spinning altogether, the motor inside works, but the fan itself does not spin. What could be wrong? problem? What do you recommend?
Anonymous:

Hello! I have this problem. Vitek floor fan, when turned on, two indicators on/speed and mode light up simultaneously. And the fan turns off. Please tell me what could be the problem.
Victor:

Good afternoon A very good, solid article) The essence of my difficult problem is this: the children knocked over the fan, thereby damaging the motor windings with the rotor. Result: multiple breaks in the windings. Due to a limited budget and sporting interest, I want to rewind the engine. At least even at one speed. Do you have any useful articles at your disposal?
Conventional floor fan Chinese delfa 40W. Motor with 8 windings, three speeds. What surprised me: the winding wire is aluminum. I myself am a winder of transformers, but I have no experience with motors. Please help. Thanks in advance!
Victor:

I’m also interested in whether there is anywhere approximate data on the number of turns of windings (maybe you’ve seen it?). Otherwise, it is no longer possible to count by eye.
Ilya:

Hello, I bought a fan, assembled it at home and turned it on, it seemed to me that it was working quite noisier than the one that was on the sample in the store and I noticed that the motor shaft (to which the blades are screwed) gets very hot, after about half an hour of operation the shaft becomes very hot, It’s impossible to say that it’s really hot outside and at home. Is this normal or should this iron pin not get hot at all?
Experienced Electrician:

During the hot season, a large ceiling fan performs better than other fan models in normalizing the microclimate in the room. The air flow from it covers a significant area. And even at low speeds, the effect is very pleasant for residents. The fact that the fan occupies a central place on the ceiling, which is usually used for a chandelier, does not cause problems, since in some models the functions of the fan and chandelier are combined.

But attaching an ordinary chandelier to the ceiling and combined model somewhat different. For an ordinary chandelier, a hook is sufficient, which is provided in any room. It is motionless and other than gravity, no other forces act on it. And when the impeller rotates, a torque arises. It is directed in the direction opposite to rotation. And this feature should be taken into account when hanging a ceiling fan of any design, especially when combined with a chandelier. In the absence of rigid fastening, axial movements will appear when the impeller rotates.

For high ceilings

A simple ceiling fan is not noticeable during these movements. But the movement of light bulbs in a chandelier with a fan will create an unpleasant lighting effect in the room. Light and especially shadows will begin to move. If the ceilings in the room are high, suspended ceilings are usually installed. The base of an ordinary chandelier is made according to the level suspended ceiling and suspended on a chain or cable. These extension cords cannot be used for a chandelier with a fan. In this case, the best extension cord would be a metal pipe. Its diameter should be such that it fits onto the ceiling hook with two holes made near its end. These hook holes should be diametrically opposed.

The pipe is also convenient for placing wires inside it. Although the wires are connected as if to one device, they actually create two separately operating circuits. After all, during the day when the impeller rotates, lamp light is not needed. Therefore, to control the lamps in the simplest circuit, you will need the same thing as for a chandelier. And the fan has its own separate circuit. It allows you to adjust the speed of the impeller. The connection diagram of the simplest model is shown in the image below. It has one lamp and one impeller rotation speed. Therefore, to control such a chandelier-fan, a switch with two keys is enough.

Variety of models

The number of lamps can be three, five, and sometimes more. The impeller speed can be divided into two or three stages and can even be adjusted smoothly. You can also smoothly regulate the light of lamps using dimmers. There are many models of such combined structures produced and it is unlikely that they can be standardized with just a few schemes. In order not to experience problems with installing the connection diagram for such a chandelier, when purchasing, you need to make sure that the accompanying documentation is available and everything is clearly stated in it regarding connecting the product to the electrical network.

If the connection diagram for a chandelier with a fan turns out to be too complicated to assemble it with your own hands, there will probably be specialists who will do everything necessary. When the selected model contains sensors for lighting control, or impeller rotation speed, there is a separate control unit, the possibility of programming is better to resolve the issue immediately upon purchase by calling a specialist to connect such a chandelier with a fan. You can not only fail to assemble a complex circuit with your own hands, but also damage something.