Tank t 34 assembled model magazine. Up-to-date and overview of each issue

This is a prefabricated model of the T-34-85 from Revell. Its construction began several years ago. I wanted, like many times before, to do an out-of-the-box assembly. But as usual, a small modification and the purchase of photo-etching entails a lot of modifications. The work was carried out intermittently for other projects. Photo-etching from Part, intended specifically for Revell kits, was used here. Now I can’t remember why I didn’t install the wings and fenders, maybe I was lazy. I had to make some parts myself. The handrails of the T-34-85 model are made of copper wire with a diameter of 0.3 mm. The radio operator's machine gun is made from a syringe needle. The optics in viewing devices are made from old DVD discs. Inspection slits were cut in the commander's cupola, and an imitation of their welding was made from drawn sprue. The fuel tank mounts are soldered from a strip of copper foil and copper wire. The headlight is drilled out and a stamped reflector made of aluminum foil is inserted; the glass itself is machined from plexiglass.

In general, assembling the T-34-85 from Revell did not present any particular difficulties. The most problems arose during the installation of the tracks. The kit from the German manufacturer is missing about one and a half tracks. I had to install spare ones from the UM model. One track was made into a prefabricated one-and-a-half track, since it was impossible to install the tracks any other way. The antenna, as before, is made of a cat's whisker (picked up from the floor, not a single animal was harmed). This is what the T-34-85 model from Revell looked like before painting.

The tank was painted using AKAN nitro-based paints. The main color of the model is 4BO. Previously, white crosses for quick identification were applied to the tower. Then tinting and washes were carried out. They were made with different types of paints. The work used water-soluble paints “Star”, Tamiya enamels diluted in White spirit, Tamiya tinting pigments, Ferrario pigments, AK washes various types. Imitation of dust was done with Hobby + nitro paint of the appropriate color. The option for painting the model and applying decals was taken, offered in the kit - April 1945. The result is up to you to evaluate. The model's photo shoot took place on the street; in my opinion, it was not very successful. Again, as in the case of the UM T-34-85 model, I did not like the color rendition. The colors are lighter and do not match those on the model. I concluded for myself that I need to learn how to photograph models. You also need to look and understand the camera settings. I also offer a short video of the finished work.

The T-34 was significantly improved during testing, and mass production was launched in September by Koshkin's successor, chief designer Alexander Morozov. The previous models, namely the T-26, BT-7 and the heavy, multi-turreted T-28, were canceled to make room for a new medium tank.

Production was also divided, Leningrad supplied the L-11 cannon, Kharkov the V12 diesel engine, Moscow the electrical components and the armored hull. Final assembly was carried out at the Stalingrad Tractor Plant.

After July 1941, all vulnerable production centers were moved to the east. Only the Stalingrad plant remained in place until the very end of the battles in early 1943 and the surrender of Von Paulus.

T-34-76, model 1940

The 1940 model had various defects. The complex shaped front armored hull was difficult to produce, and there was a shortage of V12 diesels, so most tanks of the 1940 series were equipped with the Mikulin M-17 engine at the Gorky factory, as well as temporary clutch transmissions from there. The original L-11 cannon was criticized for having a low muzzle velocity, so a replacement, the F-34 cannon, was created at the Gorky factory. It was later put into production, and the first tanks were equipped with it in July 1941.

T-34-76, model 1941

This model was very different from its 1940 predecessor. Almost everything has been researched and redesigned to facilitate mass production, such as a new gun mount, a welded turret with a new wide hatch, and many other parts.

A single hatch was added for ease of production, but it also had the disadvantage of making a wrecked tank a trap for the entire crew. This made life very difficult for the crew; many soldiers felt the lack of comfort, poor ergonomics and the huge risk of remaining in a burning tank, whose turret had by that time received the nickname “pie”.

The very large exhaust pipes located at the rear also proved to be a problem. The tower did not provide adequate protection to the commander, since it did not have a special hatch or periscope. The single heavy hatch located at the front had only one vision slit, which easily became dirty or clogged with dirt in combat conditions.

In addition, the commander was forced to load the cannon, since the crew consisted of only 4 people. This was only corrected on the T-34-85.

Later, many tanks had additional armor, such as the shielded version of 1942. This had to be done in order to somehow resist the new 88 mm German guns. The armor was greatly improved over the 1940 Model (or "Model A").

Approximately 324 T-34 models were re-equipped with the ZIS-4 cannon, which had excellent projectile velocity, were named T-34-57 and were used as tank hunters, for example during the Battle of Moscow.

T-34-76, models 1942-1944

Because the standardized machines used to produce the T-34 were not easily adaptable to new conditions, correction of specific manufacturing deficiencies was greatly limited. Many features of the tank remained unchanged until 1943, despite complaints from their crews and commanders.

Almost everything was done to simplify, even automatic welding, which made the armor stronger, was introduced to speed up and simplify production. The F-34 gun was simplified to such an extent that almost 200 fewer parts (from 861 to 614) were needed to assemble it. The sights and rangefinder remained damp, despite the fact that there were alternative ones. For example, the F-34 cannon, 42 caliber long, and the TMFD-7 sight, together with the PT-4-7 periscope panoramic sight, could not allow the use of weapons from the same distances as the Germans. This led to offensive tactics based on constant maneuvering and closing in on the enemy, while German tanks could stand and fire, remaining virtually invulnerable, from long ranges.

The lack of rubber prevented the use of normal wheels, the design was constantly changing, many were made of pure metal, which looked very strange together with ordinary tracks. However, at the beginning of 1942, an improved Model D turret appeared, an intermediate result from the T-34M project, which was a big step forward compared to previous models. Finally, the single large hatch was removed and replaced with separate hatches, and a new panoramic commander's sight with all-round visibility appeared in late 1943.

The T-34 tank needs no introduction. Even people far from the history of tank building can easily name best tank during the Second World War. Moreover, these people live not only on the territory of Ukraine or the former Soviet Union(each sandpiper praises his own swamp), but the Poles, Americans, British, French, and even Germans recognize this fact. U German tanks there were excellent guns, the best in their class, thick Krupp armor and powerful Maybach engines, but in terms of the range of combat qualities, the T-34 had no equal.
Give yourself or your child the joy of doing something with your own hands, the opportunity to plunge into the history of events subject to the strategic logic of military operations, famous tank battles– great disasters and amazing victories.

Let's look at the step-by-step assembly of the T-34 tank

To assemble the tank you will need: - a T-34 tank model kit manufactured by ZVEZDA 3525;
– model knife and wire cutters;
– model rug;
– glue for plastic;
– brushes;
- lighter;
– toothpick STAGE 1. ASSEMBLY OF THE CASE

1. First you need to open the box, lay out its contents and carefully examine all the frames with parts (sprues), as well as the instructions for assembly and painting. All frames are indicated by letters, and parts by numbers. The instructions show when and what parts need to be cut and glued.

2. Next you need to prepare necessary tools: model glue, which you will use to glue the parts, a model knife and wire cutters to separate the parts from the frame and remove flash and burrs (unnecessary particles), a model mat and brushes.

3. According to the instructions, we look at which parts need to be cut off first (all frames are marked with letters, and each part is marked with a number), and separate the parts from the frame using wire cutters or a model knife.

4. When all the parts are disconnected according to the first step in the instructions, you can start gluing them together.

We glue the cooling system grilles onto the upper part of the hull and assemble the aft armor plate with exhaust pipes. Which parts are connected to what and how are shown in the model instructions. You need to glue it with a special model glue and a brush (if it is more convenient for you to apply the glue with something else, you can use any available means). For example, we used a toothpick.

5. Next, according to the instructions, we cut off and glue the parts of the lower part of the body - the “bathtub”.

STAGE 2. ASSEMBLY OF SUSPENSION

1. According to the instructions, we cut off the tank rollers (wheels) from the sprue, join the wheel parts into grooves, glue them together and place them on the bottom of the tank. We secure the rollers with a special rivet.

2. After this, we begin to assemble and secure the vinyl tracks (caterpillar). To do this, we cut off the track strip from the sprue, connect the tracks in a circle (the last track has special recesses that are inserted into the grooves on the first track) and solder them with a heated screwdriver.

For this operation, children need the help of an adult!!!

3. We install the caterpillar track on the rollers, and the “ridges” of the tracks should fit into the gap inside the roller.

STAGE 3. ASSEMBLY OF THE TOWER

According to the instructions, we separate the turret parts from the sprue. We assemble the gun mantlet and barrel so that the latter remains movable. We glue the tower to the shoulder strap and install the stopper. We glue the gun mantlet, viewing devices, hatches, armored fan cover, handrails, etc. onto the tower.

STAGE 4. FINAL ASSEMBLY We glue the upper and lower parts of the hull, assemble and glue (in the open or closed position) the driver's hatch, the casing of the course machine gun, eyelets, spare parts boxes, chance tools, old-style fuel tanks, spare tracks, towing cables.

It should be taken into account that on each tank all of the above items were attached very individually, often not in their mounting places. Therefore, there are great opportunities for creativity here, and there is a real opportunity to add individuality to the model.
You need to make your own antenna. To do this, you need to cut off 5-6 centimeters of a straight section of unnecessary sprue without parts and heat it in the middle, over the fire of a lighter, slowly twisting it. Then stretch the heated part of the sprue, achieving the desired length and thickness of the antenna. Cut the required length and glue the antenna in its proper place to the antenna input.
The antenna should be made and glued last, because... it tends to break quickly.

At the same time, children also need the help of an adult!!!

We install the tower in place, and that’s it! Your first tank is assembled!
Now all that remains is to paint it, apply identification marks in the form of decals (stickers), and you will have a small tank at home, but very similar to the real one. If desired, you can detail it a little with photo-etching (metal detailing kits), but we will talk about the use of photo-etching and painting in the next article.

Assembling the tank did not pose any particular difficulty for me, although this is my first model. With a little help in the form of advice from more experienced comrades, the assembly took no more than two incomplete days. At the same time, the pleasure from creativity is incomparably greater when you see the finished result. The T-34 model from Zvezda in 35 scale may well become your first model!

Relaunch of the collection, autumn 2017. The collection is available only by subscription.
New magazine Tank T-34 collection will allow you to independently assemble an accurate scale model of the famous T-34 tank on a scale of 1:16. Each issue of the magazine comes with quality parts to assemble your model. Eaglemoss Publishing.

During World War II, the T-34 was the most mass-produced tank and became a legendary fighting vehicle of the Red Army. He combined high firepower, maneuverability and speed, and played a significant role in pushing the Wehrmacht troops back towards Germany.

Model

To assemble a unique model you do not need special skills. All parts are attached using grooves and screws. With each release of the collection, you will receive another set of parts and step by step you will be able to assemble your own model. The metal elements of the future model convey the true power of a real tank, and inside the model looks exactly like its prototype - from the crew compartment to the engine compartment. The tank has internal lighting.

The model that you have to assemble is made on a large scale - 1:16 and reproduces with maximum accuracy the legendary T-34-85 of 1945 with a ZIS 85 mm caliber cannon.
Moving tracks and wheels, rotating turret with cannon, detailed interior, opening hatches.
Each part is made of high-quality material: from metal to high-strength ABS plastic.
The model corresponds to a tank that took part in the battles in the spring of 1945 against Nazi Germany, as part of the 26th Guards Tank Brigade.
All parts of the model are already painted.
To assemble a tank model, all you need is a diagram from a magazine and a screwdriver.

Magazine

Every issue magazine "Tank T-34" describes in detail the next stage of model assembly. And fascinating stories about the creation Soviet tanks and the development of the T-34 model will inspire you to create a smaller copy of it.

The magazine contains many exciting essays about great battles involving the T-34 and about the people who were directly related to the creation of the legendary tank.

Release schedule

№1 – Parts for assembly – 2017
№2 – Parts for assembly
№3 – Parts for assembly

Current and review of each issue!

How many issues

Total planned: 120 issues.

Model assembly in 15 months (8 issues per month)
Set of parts + electronic version of magazines – 2312 rub./month.
Set of parts + magazines – 2632 RUR/month.

Promotional video

Forum

01.11.2016.

I’m starting a new blog on construction, or rather I’ve re-sawed the T-34-85 model from Zvezda.

Standing on my shelf, covered in dust, was my first assembled tank. It is clear that it was assembled poorly and painted accordingly. But I still wasn’t going to throw it away. Periodically I looked at it and thought what to do with it. It looked something like this, an old photo from the time work on this tank was completed:

And now I’ve finally matured - I’ll remake it. You shouldn’t expect anything supernatural from this build, and you shouldn’t expect compliance with hardware and other things. The sawing is done to practice various skills. I’ll do it slowly, depending on my mood, maybe I’ll never finish it)))

Now to the stages of work.

The first step was to remove the old paint from the model. For this I used folk remedy"Mole". Instructions for use are attached:

After removing the old paint, it's time to disassemble the entire model as much as possible. Because it was put together frankly lousy.

After I tore off everything that came off, I moved on to more radical methods. I cut off the fenders and also made holes in the MTO cover to later insert the mesh.

I also removed all the details from the rear armor plate. Unfortunately, some of the bolts were damaged and will have to be restored.

I decided to experiment, just experiment. Take a plastic mesh for MTO from the Royal Tiger set from Zvezda and glue it onto the 34-kilometre lid, having previously adjusted it to size. At first glance it doesn't look bad, I would even say good. Especially considering how it looked originally.

The next step was to close the “holes” between the upper and lower halves of the body. For this I used sheet plastic 0.3mm thick. For him to hold the required form, made into a stand from a sheet backing for laminate.

The next step was to restore the hinges for the tower hatches. The relatives were broken during dismantling.

Initially, I glued them in the open state, but... detailing wants to leave the best, I decided to close them.

04.11.2016.

Another small update.

Added welding seams to the armored turret ventilation caps. I used Moment Epoxylin Duo for this for the first time. It turned out mediocre, maybe I'll redo it later. I enhanced the effect of the mark from the gas cutters by additionally cutting with a knife and trimming with a file. And smoothed out the imitation of the injection mold of the tower, because... on this model it is made in a rather rough manner. This is also the first time. Still a good model for experiments :). I did it this way: I took it on my brush a small amount of putty (in this case it was putty from Ya-Modelist), dipped the brush into the star glue and, using poking movements, evenly walked over the entire surface to be treated. The result of these experiments is in the photo.

10.01.2017.

First update of the new year.

Switched to new camera, now the picture in the video is much more detailed and it is possible to show everything in detail.

The first thing I started doing was combat test new bending material for photo-etching, which I made at the end of last year. To begin with, I started making fenders. Because If the task is not to “fit into the drawings and the number of rivets,” then I took the dimensions from plastic. The width of the outer edge is 1mm, the inner one is 2mm, and the shelf itself is 5mm. The material for the shelf is foil from a tube of mustard. I have used it more than once to make various parts. Moderately soft, holds its shape well, and is easy to handle. Preliminary result looks like that:

Some manipulation will be done on the shelf, but later, this is not the final look.

Next, it was decided to replace the rear armor plate, because The original one was damaged quite badly during dismantling. Here sheet plastic came into play. The slab itself was cut out using a paper stencil and finished with 1mm thick plastic. The engine access hatch is made of 0.3mm thick plastic. The circle was cut out using a special tool (https://goo.gl/71DBKX or http://ali.pub/zoalb). It cuts paper without any problems, but with plastic I had to tinker. I also had to make the hinges for the hatch from scratch, all from the same foil and a piece of wire. Well, I made a preliminary outline for restoring the bolts. At this stage everything looked something like this:

The next step was to drill holes for installing the bolts. Next, I made a couple more loops for the bottom of the armor plate. I transferred the dimensions and drilled holes for installing the exhaust system. I made the bolts using a rubber mold from GreenStuffWorld; you can watch a video of the manufacturing process. Well, after making them, I started gluing all the parts. I glued everything using regular Tamiya model glue. The final appearance of the armor plate after all manipulations:

In the first part of the blog I showed the modified MTO cover. But then I remembered that one of the subscribers sent a photo-etching kit for 34k. Initially I planned to use it on the SU-100, but decided to put it into use now. And the modified one will go to DRYING. Well, a photo for comparison of the standard, modified and photo-etched MTO cover:

The final look of this stage is as follows:

Well, as usual, a visual video with comments:

15.03.2017.

After the next big break got to work.

The first step was to add a handle to the hatch of the rear armor plate, which I forgot about last time (thanks to the subscribers, they suggested it).

During the downtime, metal tracks from FriulModel managed to arrive to me. Which naturally I started collecting. They assemble nicely and without any problems. Quality and appearance chic. I collected only half on one side, I will continue later, because... there is still a long way to go before working with the suspension. Separators were also added to the left fender, which was torn from the hull because will interfere with further work.

Dividers, mounting loops and grab handles were also added to the other side of the tank. Dividers made of the same foil as the shelf. Handrails and loops and thin wire (0.5 and 0.35). Manufacturing details are in the video report.

And I also worked a little with photo-etching. Installed MTO blinds. There was a lot of fuss with small details. The funny thing is that none of this will be visible in the final result. But since it was given, I decided to do it the right way.

It seems like I didn’t do much, but it took a fair amount of time.

Well, a video report on the work done with all the details:

30.05.2017.

During the break between building models, I experimented with sculpting bags and rolls. I was drawn to sculpting because... A parcel with modeling tools arrived from China. All modeling products from China can be found in the article.

Unfortunately, I didn’t know that you can’t leave it unbaked. polymer clay on plastic. As a result, the side of my 34 melted. I had to putty. And in three passes. To my surprise, the Tamiya putty shrinks quite a lot.

While the putty was drying, I assembled the MSD tower. Surprisingly, the parts fit together perfectly. All that remains is to add welds and imitation of injection mold. Well, for one thing I tried on a metal barrel from Aber, it looks great.

Another photo for comparison with the original tower from Zvezda.

Rollers from MSD were also assembled and tried on the tank along with half a psaltery from FriulModel. Again, it looks many times better than the ones from Zvezda.

Well, the final touch of this approach is the armored caps on the turret. I made 3 of them just in case. I hung one on a chain from Aber, and inserted the second into the tower. Of course I had to drill out the appropriate holes first.

Here is the final view of the stage:

The sawing continues at a leisurely pace. In the meantime, you can watch another video with this stage of construction:

03.12.2018.

Construction was frozen for more than a year. First, other projects, then moving, and finally I sorted out the boxes and got to the project with the 34th.

The plans are to replace the previously installed hinges and finish with the alignment of the damaged side.

But I'll start with assembling the tracks. And the first thing you need to do is drill out each track with a 0.5mm drill (according to the manufacturer’s recommendation). I didn’t have a suitable one, so I used a larger one, around 0.7-0.9mm. The process is long, but necessary.

Then I cut some extra brass wire that came with the Friul tracks and connected the tracks to each other.

Excess length can be easily cut off with pliers.

Well, then fitting the caterpillar track onto the tank.

Well, more clearly “standing” on the skating rinks on both sides:

After that, I removed the old hinges from the side and leveled the layer of putty.

Now assembling the tanks. There are three of them in the photo-etch kit. Although I will most likely need 1 or 2, I collected them all. Assembly is not difficult, all the details are in the video.

I was surprised to find that the photo-etch kit from Aber does not include fasteners for hanging tanks, only for smoke barrels.

The full video with all the details of the stage is already available on the channel:

I hope there will be no more long pauses and the next episode will be released as soon as possible.

21.04.2019.

Another small update on 34ke.

The next break was due to the birth of my second child, and I’m slowly returning to modeling.

I cut out the plastic grilles from the MTO section. Marked for photo-etching. Now it looks much nicer. Later I want to “beat them up” a little, but this is already closer to the end.