Repair kit for bicycle inner tube instructions. First aid at home: how to seal a bicycle inner tube

The chamber is the part of the wheel that contains pressurized air. A small hole is enough for air to escape from the chamber and the bicycle is no longer suitable for use.

The main reasons for a puncture can be:

hitting a sharp object with a bicycle wheel;
pinching of the camera between the rim and tire;
impact of a wheel spoke;
the rough, hard end of the nipple hole.

What you need to prepare - choosing equipment for repairs

To save money on buying a new camera, you can perform simple repairs. It will be within the power of every two-wheeler owner.

To do this, you should use some tools and a special repair kit.

So, you will need:

hex heads and keys for wheel removal;
mounting paddle to bend the tire away from the rim;
sandpaper;
large container of water (basin or bucket).

The repair kit includes:

glue;
rubber patches.

What glue can I use?

The repair kit can be purchased at special stores, or you can do it yourself.

Rubber patches are cut from the old camera, and glue is selected separately. The cost of one bicycle repair kit varies between 90 rubles.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

Seal the bicycle inner tube using a repair kit

Preparing for work.

Place the bike in the mounting position: turn it over and secure it.
Place your tools and materials nearby, preferably in a visible place, for example, on a table with lighting.

Wheel dismantling and inspection.

Using the necessary tools, remove the wheel from the bicycle.
Secure it and carefully inspect the entire tire for damage. Wear gloves to avoid accidentally injuring yourself from glass shards or screws stuck in the tire.
Even if you know exactly where the puncture is, conduct a full inspection of the tire without missing a centimeter.

Tire removal.

Insert the previously prepared mounting blade between the rim and tire. Push the nipple inward first.
Gently pull the spatula towards you and separate the tire from the wheel.
Note! On some bicycles, the tire can be removed by hand using just one tire remover.

Camera diagnostics.

Remove the tube and inflate it using a bicycle pump.
Place the camera in a container of water and observe carefully. In the place where air bubbles appear, there is a puncture.
Note! Sometimes it seems that there is only one damage, but during diagnostics it is possible to detect several of them.

Sealing the camera.

Using sandpaper, roughen the surface around the damage.
Apply a little glue to the treated surface and distribute it evenly. Wait until it is completely dry.
Apply a second layer of glue in the same way and let it dry completely again. How to check if the surface is ready for further work? If the glue has dried, it will be matte.
Apply a third layer of glue and apply a patch to the puncture site. Or, if you have a purchased repair kit, remove the protective film from the patch and apply it to the tire. Press or press firmly.

Installing the camera and wheel.

Place one bead of the tire on the rim.
Inflate the chamber, but not all the way. Install it into its seat in the rim.
Using your thumbs, carefully push the second bead of the tire under the rim along the entire diameter of the wheel.
Pump up the camera. The bicycle is ready for use.

How to solve the problem quickly without glue

Sometimes, a puncture needs to be repaired when there is no glue or rubber patches at hand. For such cases, there is an old, time-tested old-fashioned method.

Turn the bike over and secure it.
Locate the puncture site on the camera.

This can be done during the inspection. You can also press the tire with your hands and listen. The air escaping from the puncture will make itself known with a sound similar to hissing.

Bend one side of the tire away from the rim near the puncture site and remove the tube and tie it in a knot.
Place the tire beads under the rim and inflate the tube.

What minimum should be included in the repair kit?

In addition to this small kit, you need to have pliers, small wrenches, “mounters” for removing the tire and tube, and a spare tube. These are the main tools that you must have with you not only on long trips, but also during an ordinary trip to the country.

Now we will look at alternative methods of getting out of the situation in the case when the wheel is punctured, and necessary tools No. There are many ways out of this seemingly problematic situation.

The wheel is punctured, or How to seal a bicycle inner tube to get home

First, release the wheel from the brake. If it is rim, you need to squeeze the brake horns and unhook the arc that holds them back. Next, you should disengage the eccentric and remove the wheel. If the brakes are disc, then the work is greatly simplified: we immediately disengage the eccentric and carefully remove the wheel. To make it more convenient, turn the bike over, placing it on the handlebars and seat.

If the brakes are hydraulic, it is better not to keep the bike upside down for too long: air may get into the inside of the brakes, and this is undesirable. If the brakes are rim or mechanical, you can safely turn them over. Just place a piece of fabric under the steering wheel so as not to damage the switches and brake levers, otherwise the question of how to seal a bicycle inner tube will no longer be so relevant - you will have to repair the hardware.

Removing the wheel

To disassemble the wheel, use the "mounters". These are special plastic devices used to remove tires. Usually there are two of them in a set. If there are no “installers”, then you can use a spoon or an open-end wrench. In short, you need to find something that can be used to carefully remove the tire without scratching the rim and without additionally making holes in the tubes. "Mounts" are ideal because they have a convenient shape and are made of plastic.

We completely deflate the tube and hook the tire with one “mounter”. Its edge must be brought out beyond the rim. It’s not a fact that it will work right away, so a second “installation” will be needed. Use it to pry the larger piece of tire out of the rim, holding the first one. Then, moving little by little along the tire, remove it completely.

We identify the puncture site

Once the tire is off, remove the valve from the rim. That's it, the camera is free, you can look for a puncture.

If the puncture is small, you need to inflate the chamber a little and listen to where the air is coming from.

Can't find a puncture? Submerge the camera in water. If there is not enough water, dampen a rag and wipe the camera with it - at the puncture site, water will begin to bubble, informing you of the hole.

Gluing the camera

When a puncture (maybe more than one!) is discovered, remember where it is, and if there are several of them, then mark all the holes with chalk or a marker.

You need to think carefully about how to seal the bicycle inner tube and prepare everything you need to make it easy to work.

First, clean all puncture sites with a piece of sandpaper to degrease the rubber.

Then prepare the patches. If there are no special ones, then you can cut them out from the old camera. Also clean homemade patches with sandpaper. Apply glue to the camera and the patch, connect them and squeeze firmly. It is better to squeeze with pliers, after placing a rag between the rubber and metal. This is necessary to ensure that the metal of the pliers does not damage the camera and the patch. If the packaging says that after applying the glue you need to wait five minutes for the glue to dry, follow this requirement and only then apply the surfaces to each other.

Now you can assemble the wheel. After your first flat tire, you'll remember how to seal your bike's inner tube on the road.

Reasons for camera puncture

Most often, the wheel runs into something sharp: a stone, glass, screw or wire. This can happen to anyone.

But there are reasons that are associated with a negligent attitude towards your “iron horse”. For example, if the camera is punctured from the rim side. In this place it is often pierced by the head of the knitting needle. This happens because the tape that runs between the rim and the tube wears out. In this case, it is very difficult to protect it from the knitting needles. To prevent punctures, wrap electrical tape around the rim to protect the area where the spokes are. Next, put the old tape on top, or better yet, buy a new, stiffer tape.

If there are abrasions or cuts on the tube on the rim side, it means it was not pumped properly. Because of this, the camera was slightly mobile when driving, which resulted in a puncture. And the last thing: if there are no holes, but the camera still lowers, then you need to check the strength of the nipple by immersing it in water. If this is the case, the part will have to be replaced.

How to repair a camera if you have few tools at hand

If there is no repair kit, then how to seal a bicycle inner tube without glue? Craftsmen found a way out long ago. You need to take a coin, bend it with pliers or, holding it tightly, hit it with a stone. Once the coin is bent, place a camera between its folded edges and bend the coin even further to firmly compress the puncture site. The damaged area will be compressed with a coin and you will be able to get home. This is one of the answers to the question: “How to seal a bicycle inner tube without glue?” A dubious method, of course, but many claim that it helped them out.

Want to know how to get to your destination with a flat tire? Now we will tell you how to seal a bicycle inner tube without a patch using water. Fill the pump with water and pump it into the chamber. The bottom line is that water will not be able to escape as quickly as air. You can ride on a “sealed” wheel for about half an hour, and this, you see, is quite a long distance. It also helps that you can add water periodically. There is little time spent on everything, much less than pulling a bicycle and walking.

How to seal a bicycle inner tube with self-adhesive if this is the only material available? You can inflate the chamber and apply any piece of rubber to the puncture site (a condom will also work), wrap it with self-adhesive or adhesive tape. You can drive on such a patch for quite a long time, unless, of course, the road is paved. And if you pump up the tire as needed, you can safely get to your home or the nearest car service center.

If special means If you don't have it at hand, superglue will help you cope with the task. Let's take a closer look at how to seal a bicycle inner tube with superglue.

We cut out the patch, carefully clean it and the puncture site with sandpaper.

Apply glue to both surfaces and wait the required amount of time indicated on the tube.

After the time has elapsed, apply the patch to the hole and press very firmly. You can wrap the camera on all sides with a dry cloth and use pliers to pinch the gluing area through it. We hold it for about thirty seconds and release it - the patch is securely fixed. This repair method is perfect for both field conditions and home use.

How to seal a bicycle inner tube with wet rubber

The most reliable way to repair a puncture in a tire is vulcanization with raw rubber. Trucks are usually sealed this way, but what's worse about a bicycle? This patch will hold on most reliably. It is impossible to use this method in limited conditions, but anyone can do the work at home.

So, let’s find out how to seal a bicycle inner tube with raw rubber: soak it in gasoline, then cut out the piece needed for the patch and apply it to the previously cleaned puncture site. Place a piece of paper on the damp rubber and place the “structure” under a warm, turned off iron. We wait until it cools down and remove it. All is ready! This method is the most reliable, but it can only be used at home.

In our article you will find answers to the question of how to seal a bicycle wheel. Remember that if you go on a trip (even a short one), take the trouble to take with you everything you need for repairs.

Today I bought a new bike first aid kit, which is nothing more than ordinary patches with glue included. The previous set of this type served me for 3 years, there were 50 round patches. Of course, the glue ran out much faster; it only lasted a few times. This set cost 50 rubles, I bought it at our local bazaar in a bicycle stall. Today I decided to get a new set, since the old one was completely gone. I went to the Ural store to buy it, in the bicycle department. There were no round patches, only rectangular ones, larger area. There was nothing to choose from, I had to buy them at the ridiculous price of 40 rubles. This surprised me a little; I didn’t think that in three years these patches would not only not become more expensive, but would also cost less. So, let's look at what I purchased today, this is what the front side of the package looks like:

As you can see, this kit is called Red Sun, there are no Russian letters on the packaging anywhere. WITH reverse side packaging brief instructions in several languages, no Russian:

But the previous set of the same type with round patches had Russian instructions. However, it’s unlikely that anyone will need it, because using this set couldn’t be easier.

Added 07/15/2015

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Bike first aid kit Red Sun-RS4803 instructions

It’s simply amazing that every day several people come to my blog looking for instructions for a bicycle first aid kit! I thought no one needed it, because it couldn’t be easier to use, but since people are looking for it, perhaps I’ll satisfy their curiosity.

1. Determining the puncture site:

First you need to determine the location of the camera puncture. If the puncture is serious, then most likely the puncture location can be determined by simply inflating the chamber. Remove the tube from the tire and inflate it with a pump; as soon as you hear a hissing sound, begin inspection; a large hole will be immediately visible. If you cannot determine it by eye, then you need to lower the camera under water; air bubbles will come out of the punctured hole. To avoid losing the puncture site, outline it with chalk and then wipe the camera dry.

2. Treatment of the puncture site:

Clean the puncture site with fine sandpaper so that the cleaned surface is slightly more sizes patches. Afterwards it is necessary to degrease the cleaned area. This can be done using cotton wool moistened with alcohol or some solvent. Of course, you can do without degreasing, but if you want to achieve a high-quality result and so that your patch does not fly off in the future, degreasing is necessary.

3. Gluing the patch:

Apply glue to the cleaned and degreased puncture site in as even a layer as possible, with a margin of area so that the surface coated with glue is slightly larger than the size of the patch. Do not spread too thick a layer of glue; this will not improve the adhesion strength of the patch, but may worsen it. In addition to the glue from this Red Sun bicycle first aid kit, you can use another, for example: rubber glue, instant “super glue”, transparent “Moment” glue. I have used all of these glues and each of them gave excellent results. In order to achieve best quality gluing, read the instructions on the tube of glue you are using. If you decide to use instant “super glue”, then your actions are as follows: after applying the glue, cut off one of the patches from the set, tear off the foil that protects the glued surface, place the patch on the glue with the red side and gently press on it with all your might. The harder you press, the higher the quality of gluing. Since the “super glue” sets within a few seconds, the camera can be used immediately. If you are using glue from the kit or other rubber glue that requires curing, then after pressing the patch, you need to soak it for 24 hours so that the glue dries. In order to achieve the best result, when using rubber glue, I do the following: after pressing the patch, I place the camera area with the patch in an old, unnecessary book. Having opened it in the middle, I put the camera there in such a way that the pages of the book squeeze the camera, pressing the patch to the place to be glued. Then I put a small weight on the book and keep the camera in this state for 24 hours. The patches glued in this way hold very tightly.

Let's see what's inside:

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And inside there are 48 rectangular patches and a tube of proprietary Red Sun glue:

All patches are on one canvas, which is folded several times, twice in this photo:

To test this kit, I had three leaky inner tubes prepared in advance, so today I tried out this bike first aid kit. In general, when gluing cameras, I use instant “super glue”. It allows you to press the patch to the camera and immediately inflate it after gluing it, this is very convenient because it is fast. And despite the fact that super glue does not exhibit elastic properties after hardening, the patch glued with it holds very tightly; out of all 50 previous ones, only one came off. But I didn’t test the speed of the glue from the bike first aid kit. After applying and pressing the patch, I held it for a while to be sure and sent it to rest without pumping it up. Tomorrow I will pump up all three sealed chambers and write here what the result is. However, I can already say that it’s somehow stuck =)

Added 11/22/2013:

So, today, exactly one day later, I tested the strength of the glue from the bike first aid kit. Each of the three chambers was inflated and lowered under water in the place where the patch was glued. None of the cameras bubble, that is, everything was sealed more than perfectly. Verdict: This bike first aid kit is worth using, especially considering how much it costs. At the end of the post, I want to show a photo of what the glued patch looks like; it also shows an old, round patch from the previous bike first aid kit:

For robots: bicycle first aid kit, bicycle first aid kit, patches, glue, sealing a bicycle inner tube

A bicycle tube puncture is the most common cause sudden stop of a cyclist. At the same time, oddly enough, a puncture is not a breakdown, but an unfortunate but inevitable incident. Today we will talk about how to seal a bicycle inner tube.

On the one hand, inner tube punctures on a bicycle should happen less often than on a car, because a car has twice as many wheels, and the area of their contact with the road is also larger. But in reality, it turns out that cars mostly travel on roads with good surfaces. And cyclists “collect” all sorts of things on the side of the road dangerous items. And the tire on a bicycle is much thinner, and the load on it is greater.

Why do camera tears occur?

In addition to banal punctures, the inner tube may rupture on a bicycle.

A gap is a linear defect that has not a point size, but visible boundaries. This happens because that when jumping from curbs or during aggressive riding, the camera experiences significant shock loads, and the quality of the rubber is very important. Sometimes, as in the picture, the tube ruptures along with the tire.

Which breakup is the most “tragic” for the camera?

The camera cannot be repaired, perhaps, in case of one type of rupture - the valve is torn off along a part of the circumference.

A sign of such an event is a deafening hiss and the camera turning into a “rag” in 3-5 seconds. After this, the bicycle tube can only be used for patches.

How to prevent a camera puncture

In many cases, a puncture can be prevented. To do this, you need to comply with simple conditions:

When installing the camera for the first time, it should be dry, preferably powdered with talcum powder;
there should be no debris or small stones in the tire;
the wheel must be carefully inspected - there should be no protruding ends of the spokes, the safety tape must be intact and fit snugly to the rim;
the chamber valve must be threaded into the rim perpendicularly, and not crookedly;
While riding, an experienced cyclist looks at the path 5-7 meters ahead of the bike, noting “subconsciously” the shine of fragments of glass, metal, planks, wire, accumulation of suspicious debris, small and sharp stones. If you cannot go around them, it is better to walk (in this case the weight of the bicycle will not be enough to cause a puncture;
If, nevertheless, a fragment of a bottle “turns out” with a crunch from under the front wheel, swerve the bicycle so that the rear wheel does not pass over the same dangerous object. After all, there is nothing more offensive than having both wheels punctured by the same fragment of a bottle or a nail firmly sticking out of a board;
try to “jump” less from curbs, loading the rear wheel, especially if you have a lot of weight.

What should you take with you in case of a tire puncture?

Everyone gets ready to travel in their own way, sometimes not at all. The understanding that you need to be “fully prepared”, as a rule, comes after the tire goes flat in bad weather far from home. As luck would have it, there is nothing, not even a pump. You have to drive your bike for a whole hour, and sometimes much longer, returning home chilled and often at night.

To prevent this from happening, you need to have the following minimum set, which will save you in almost any situation and allow you to carry out repairs yourself:

As they say, “no comment.” If you have everything but forget the pump, as they say, “congratulations”;

LED headlamp. Helps with repairs at night. Even if you have a super headlight on a bicycle, it will be inconvenient and often impossible to use it, having deployed it to the place where it broke;

This allows you to avoid the most unpleasant incident - the valve coming off. Without a backup camera, you will be helpless. Among other things, having a “duty” camera is very convenient. You save time on the road because you can simply replace the camera. At home, you can easily repair the camera and put it back, and hide the camera in the glove compartment.

A set of montages. They are used to disassemble the wheel and reassemble it. IN Soviet time they used a flat allen wrench, a screwdriver, a spoon handle—anything that could fit between the rim and the tire.

Bicycle first aid kit
Special mention should be made about the first aid kit. A “classic first aid kit” should have something like this:

Rubber patches different sizes(you can cut it yourself from the unusable camera).
Medium-grain sandpaper, which can “rub” the rubber well, makes it look lighter).
What to seal it with? The classic first aid kit comes with a small tube of rubber glue.

The main task is to ensure that the camera glue does not “suddenly” dry out. The fact is that the glue is capable of drying out “suddenly”, and precisely when a puncture occurs.

Modern versions of the first aid kit are more compact; in volume they take up no more than a quarter of a box of matches. The fact is that instead of glue they simply contain self-adhesive patches. Their big advantage is that you don’t have to wait for the glue to dry. You just need to press the patch tightly to the camera and “forget it.”

It is also advisable to have a water bottle. This may be water for drinking, or maybe after a puncture you will be able to find a small body of water with a convenient place to descend.
A regular ballpoint pen.
Repellent against mosquitoes and midges. This is an important accessory, especially in summer in Siberia.
A pair of rag gloves(in case you have to remove the chain to free the rear wheel - it's not good to drive with dirty hands).

Sequence of actions in case of an accident

How to glue correctly? Let's look at the sequence of actions in case you don't have a spare camera. As many years of practice have shown, the inconveniences in nature are as follows:

darkness;
lack of opportunity to sit down;
the presence of mosquitoes, midges and other “bloodsuckers”.

Once you are sure that you are shaking hard and the tire is flat, first of all try to pump it up. It is quite possible that the puncture occurred half an hour ago, and the camera “holds.” In this case, after making one or two pumpings, you can easily get home and fix the defect in comfortable conditions.
If the wheel “radically flattens” in less than a minute, you need to choose a level place and put the bike “on its butt”.
Using eccentrics, loosen the wheel fastening in the fork stays; be sure to disconnect the brake pads (V-brake) to remove the wheel. If the rear wheel is punctured, you need to move the shifter lever on the right to the smallest driven sprocket, and on the left to the smallest drive sprocket, disconnect the brake pads and, wearing gloves, remove the wheel.
The most crucial moment is that the wheel needs to be beaded. To do this, the mounting is inserted into the gap between the rim and the tire, and then it is used as a lever, and the tire ends up outside the rim.
By running the tire around the rim (parallel to the spokes), the tire begins to wobble. Now, on the other side, you can pull out the camera and carefully, being careful not to damage it, release the valve from the rim hole.

Now you can carry out diagnostics. Sometimes it happens that a nail continues to stick out in the tire with the point inward. If you overlook it, then, despite the repair, you will immediately get a second puncture.

For diagnostics, the chamber is inflated to an elastic state.
The primary location of the puncture is determined by the place of hissing.
If you place the camera with the hissing part towards your lips, you can feel the breeze from the air flow.
Then you can moisten the intended puncture site with water or simply spit on it. The place where the bubbles originate is the puncture site.

Sometimes it is not possible to identify the hole this way. In this case, the chamber is wetted entirely or placed under water (if possible). Sometimes it happens that the camera is intact, but the valve is leaking. If there is no spare chamber, then you can try to move the valve inside or seal it up chewing gum after the chamber has been inflated.

Once a location is found, it can be easily lost. Take a pen and mark it with a cross or a circle.
To seal it properly, thoroughly dry the chamber and clean the area with sandpaper with an area of about 1 square meter. see based on a point puncture. You don’t have to clean it, but degrease it, for example, with alcohol.
Then we also clean the surface of the selected patch.
Spread the glue over the chamber (first layer), wait a minute or two until the glue dries.
Then apply a second layer on top of the first, wait 3-5 minutes.
Then the surfaces are tightly connected so that they do not “ride” relative to each other.
To seal the camera, the glue is left in place for 1-3 minutes, and then the camera is carefully put in place and the valve is threaded.
The wheel “beads” and slowly inflates.

All! You can go.

Of course, it is better to have a modern first aid kit without glue. I applied it and “forgot.” Even better is having a whole new bike tube. And it’s even better to try not to drive where there is a high risk of “catching a nail.”

If you can’t fix the camera or you forgot something, then you have a way out: as a last resort, you can try filling the tire tightly with grass or hay and carefully continue driving. In this case, you will move, although without the usual comfort, but much better than on the “bone shakers” that existed before the invention of rubber tubes and tires.

How to tape a bicycle tube:

1. Find the puncture.
To find the cause of a puncture, check the tire all the way from the nipple. Remove any glass shards or pebbles you see. Even if you found possible reason puncture, still check the tire thoroughly.
2. Remove the camera.
Release the air. Push the valve into the tire. If there is a ring on the nipple, unscrew it and store it in a safe place. On the side of the wheel opposite to the nipple, push the bead under the tire bead approximately 5 cm. Do the same with the remaining beads. Bike guards can be purchased at almost any bike shop. Pull the bead closest to you until the bead of the tire rises above the edge of the rim.
Lifting the bead of the tire with the remaining beads, make sure that it completely slides off the rim. Take out the camera. Remove the entire tire from the rim—with the exception of the tightest tires, most tires can be removed by hand.

3. Inflate the chamber.
Inflate the tire and try to determine by ear the location of the air leak. I usually try to find the puncture site with my lips. If you still cannot find the hole, then try inflating the camera again and place it in a bowl of water. Now the puncture site is easy to notice by the escaping air bubbles. Before you start next step, be sure to let the camera dry.

4. Prepare your camera.
Select a patch required size. When in doubt, out of two patches, always choose the larger patch. Before sealing the camera, be sure to use sandpaper to roughen the surface of the camera around the hole. There should not be a single glossy area left. Place one drop of glue and spread it in a thin layer within a 2 cm radius around the hole. Wait until the glue dries. Apply a second thin layer of glue in the same way. Let the glue dry again - it should become matte, not shiny.

5. Attach the patch.
Inflate the camera a little to better see the puncture site. Remove the foil from the patch and press it firmly against the camera. The thin cellophane coating on the patch does not need to be removed. To prevent the tube from sticking to the tire, sprinkle the sealed area with chalk, talcum powder or road dust.

6. Check the inside of the tire.
Before installing the tube, double check the inside of the tire to determine the cause of the puncture. Once, after driving along a road along a river covered in hedge thorns, I found about a dozen thorns! By comparing the tube and tire, you can find the puncture site. Carefully walk your fingertips around the inside of the tire to find the objects that caused the puncture and remove them.

7. Install the tire.
After repairing the tube and checking the tire for glass, thorns or other sharp debris, install one bead of the tire on the rim. Inflate the camera a little and install it in the rim. Insert the nipple into the hole provided for it. Starting on the side of the rim opposite the valve, use your thumbs to fold the tire bead (the part of the tire in direct contact with the rim) over the rim. Go over the entire wheel in the same way, leaving only a small section of the tire uninstalled. Using your thumbs, carefully install the remaining section of the tire bead.

8. Perform final inspection.
Check that the tube is not pinched between the rim and the tire bead. Inflate the tire until it is still soft but still maintains its shape. Make sure that the tire's circular mark runs evenly along the entire length of the rim. If not, then you will have to lower the tube a little and level out all the protruding places so that the bead goes evenly along the rim.
Inflate the tire to the recommended pressure and check again that the tire bead sits evenly and the tire does not bulge anywhere from the rim. Finally, check that the tread moves straight when the wheel rotates. If not, then you need to deflate the tire and repeat this step.

Important tips for repairing punctures:

When removing the tube from the tire, remember in which direction the tube was placed in the wheel. This will help determine the location of the puncture in the tube after the location of the object causing the puncture in the tire has been found.
Use a ballpoint pen to mark the puncture site with a cross so that you know it exactly.
If you don't have sandpaper, you can use stone and paving stones instead.
To prevent the beads of easily inflated tires from falling into the rim groove on one side and swelling on the opposite side, install a thicker rim tape or two rim tapes.
To make tight tires easier to take on and off, install the rim tape as thin as possible.
Follow the puncture repair procedure carefully. The last thing you need to install on the rim is the section of the tire at the point where the nipple is attached. Make sure the tire beads are as deep as possible into the rim groove. When installing some hard tires, you cannot do without beads. Use special edges VAR 425 to help with installation.

Determining the type of puncture.

Two adjacent small holes in the chamber indicate snake bite , which occurs as a result of the tube being pinched between the tire and the rim when driving over a sharp object. Also, these punctures are often caused by the tire not being inflated to the recommended pressure. Make sure that side wall the tires remained intact. Otherwise, you can't do without.

A hole on the inside of the chamber indicates that the head is to blame for the puncture knitting needles. Check the entire length of the rim and make sure that the spoke holes are covered with rim tape and that the ends of the spokes do not protrude beyond the inside surface of the rim. If they protrude, they need to be filed down.

A less common cause of puncture is rough edge of nipple hole. This puncture is located at the base of the nipple and it is not possible to seal the bicycle inner tube.

Create your owncamera repair kit:

Several patches;
Rubber glue;
A pair of plastic sides;
A piece of good sandpaper;
Small adjustable wrench (if using wheels with hex nuts);
Or a hex key (if using wheels with hex nuts);
Reliable ;
LED key fob (useful for);
A couple of spare tires (always carry them with you).

Everything except the pump needs to be packed in the seat bag.

Systematic tire inspection.

Check every week for tread cuts, sidewall bulges and wear. Tires with cuts, bulges and tires with skin showing through the tread are not subject to further use. Remove any pebbles or glass found embedded in the tread. Use a tire pressure gauge to check the tire pressure. Tires inflated to the recommended pressure puncture less often and last longer. The recommended pressure is usually indicated on the sidewall of the tire.

Carry spare tubes and tires with you.

In the rain it is very difficult to patch up a bicycle tube, as the patch will not be able to stick to the tube. In such a situation, you need to install a spare camera, which you should always carry with you! A spare tube will also be indispensable in the event of a tire bulging from the rim or a puncture at the nipple attachment point.

Urgent bicycle tire repair.

Fold a large piece of strong polyethylene in half. Cut the piece to a size that is 10 cm wider than the cut and 5 cm wider than the tire. Remove the tire from the rim. Center a double layer of patch over the gap or cut inside the sheathing. Holding the emergency patch that should protrude from both sides of the tire, install the first bead of the tire onto the rim.

If required, install new camera and pump it up a little. Install the second bead of the tire, and install the sealed section of the tire last. Make sure the patch sticks on both sides. Inflate the tire and trim off any excess patches, which should stay in place just fine thanks to the tire's air pressure.