Swede stove foundation dimensions. Do-it-yourself Swedish stove design, design features, order

Among the wide range of modern heating equipment, the Swedish stove occupies a special position due to the combination of the best properties of multi-pass and bell-type models. This heating unit is highly efficient: provided that the efficiency reaches 80%, the stove pleases with its versatility and compact size.

Compared to the common Russian stove, the brick Swede has minimal dimensions: without additional extensions it occupies 1 m² of usable area, the height reaches 2 m. Multifunctionality is ensured thanks to the possibility of installing a fireplace on the living room side, a hob directly in the kitchen, as well as an oven, dryer and sun lounger With a smaller mass than its relatively common Russian counterpart, the Swede exhibits the same high heat transfer.

If you introduce additional valves, you can configure “winter” and “summer” heating modes. The unit heats up within 15 minutes; unlike other stoves, you can use coal, pallets, firewood, and peat with equal success. Even in harsh climatic conditions, a two-time firebox is enough to maintain an optimal daily microclimate.

The heat exchanger, assembled from vertically or horizontally directed channels, does not require labor-intensive maintenance. If you follow basic rules, you can avoid the formation of plugs from combustion products. But we must remember that high performance indicators will be achieved only if selected materials are used: for example, for masonry you will need high-quality ceramic and fireclay bricks.

The only vulnerability of the model may be the firebox door. This part operates under conditions of maximum thermal loads, made of stamped sheet, it will quickly fail. Cast iron specimens equipped with “whiskers” or fasteners in the form of claws are optimal.

Structural and functional features

The main advantage of a Swedish brick stove is its compactness - even “tiny” ones can cope with the maintenance of residential premises. In this model, combustion products are delivered to the pipe through a channel chimney. Bell elements located above the drying chamber and firebox are responsible for heat exchange. If a Swedish stove is installed with an oven, the latter is placed on the same level as the firebox, which ensures quick heating.

Hob

A Swedish stove with a stove is a traditional configuration; it involves the use of a thick cast iron plate, in which there are 2 lockable burners. Typically, such slabs have standard dimensions of 410x710 mm. The height of the firebox varies between 280-330 mm, the width reaches 350 mm, and the length reaches 550 mm.

Gas channel system

The channels can be horizontally or vertically oriented; the smoke passing through them heats up the structure, and the room is heated from its walls. This is an economical and highly efficient system: the heat that seeps through the pipe in conventional Russian stoves is sent directly to heating.

If the flue channels in a Swedish heating stove are horizontal, the walls of the structure are heated more evenly. But in this case, more cleaning holes with molded doors will have to be introduced into the system, which will increase the final cost of the masonry.

Vertically located channels can function perfectly with one technical hatch, but here another problem arises - uneven heating of the furnace. The shield in the first channel, into which combustion products are immediately directed, becomes hot faster compared to the third (output). That is, one room may be cooler than another.

The bell-type device works with one cleaning window, the surface of the furnace is evenly heated, and less bricks are required for construction. The unit cools down more slowly, since heat is retained in the upper part of the hoods, and ventilation from the doors is carried out only in the center.

Oven

The large volume of the cabinet allows you to prepare a wide range of dishes, it is convenient to use. The oven is made of cast iron; tin or sheet variations are not acceptable here; it will be needed not only for baking - the special design helps to quickly warm up the room immediately after kindling, if you open the door.

The box is comparable in size to the size of the firebox; it is mounted in close proximity, but so as not to have direct contact with the flame. The optimal oven wall thickness is 4-6 mm.

Convenient extensions – a couch and a fireplace

Often the heating device is equipped with a fireplace on the front or back side (that is, it will be installed either in the kitchen or in the living room). The chimney can be combined or separate. In the first case, a single structure is formed, it is easier to assemble, and little material is needed. But you can heat it either with a stove or a fireplace. Separate chimneys are not as economical to build, but they allow you to use both heating methods at the same time.

Swede stoves with a stove bench are in great demand. This device is assembled from the back of the unit, its standard length is 7 bricks, width is 3 bricks. The smoke channels passing inside heat this podium when certain valves are opened. Typically, such oven models are not equipped with an oven.

Auxiliary shelves and niches

On the front side, 2 large shelves are built into Swedish models, both located above the hob. The lower shelf heats up more, the upper one uses only the heat transfer of the brick. If you close the niche opening with a wooden or metal door, a kind of low-temperature oven is formed.

Auxiliary shelves and niches in a Swedish oven are often used for drying berries and mushrooms

Simple models use straight horizontal floors. Arched structures look more interesting and can become the highlight of the interior, although they are difficult to assemble and increase the consumption of materials.

Do-it-yourself Swedish stove: ordering a model with 3 modes

The operation of traditional configurations does not imply modes; such units are very difficult to melt in winter - smoke penetrates into the room. If there is a “summer” mode, the closed valve is moved back only after the neglected section of the chimney has warmed up. Thanks to the temperature difference formed during this 5-minute period, the necessary draft is created. The third, “autumn” mode improves functionality during the spring and autumn period of use.

Supplies overview

Such variations are small in size - 30 rows are enough, another 2 are used to form a pipe. Such a Swedish brick stove has dimensions of 114x76 cm, reaches a height of 210 cm, the parameters of the pipe and materials for it are usually indicated separately in the order.

Materials for masonry:

• red stove brick (solid);
• fireproof (fireclay) brick;
• cast iron hob;
• cast firebox door;
• doors for cleaning holes and blower;
• valves;
• grate;
• oven;
• steel corners;
• sheet metal

Masonry mortar is made on a clay base.

Arrangement of the Swedish stove

The first 2 rows are laid solid from oven bricks, with bandaging; here it is important to observe geometry - adhere to right angles, make sure that the diagonals are the same.

For the third row, take fireclay and add 1 red brick, here the ash chamber and the oven compartment are already outlined, and a vertical channel is formed to the rudiments of the lower cap. The material used to form the passage is sawed off. Cleaning holes must be provided in the side walls; at the same stage, the ash pan door is installed.

The fourth row is placed in the same way, but the passage between the oven and the hood is slightly reduced. 2 strips of metal are mounted above the ash pan door. In the 5th row these plates are covered with bricks. At this stage, a grate is introduced and the passage to the hood is further narrowed. Hereinafter, only fireclay bricks are used for masonry.

At the 6th stage, the firebox begins to take shape. When forming the entrance to it, 2 bricks are cut at an acute angle. The passage between the oven and the hood is immediately blocked, and an oven chamber is installed. In the 7th row, the firebox continues to be laid out and a door is inserted into it.

Next, in 8-10 rows, a fuel chamber is formed; again, part of the red brick is used for work. The oven is also lined here. The tenth row is marked by the combination of two chambers - the firebox and the oven.

In the 11th row, a “summer” mode channel is laid, grooves are cut out in the fireclay material for installing a cast iron plate (here compensation for thermal expansion must be taken into account), and an asbestos cord is placed in the gaps. The outer edge of the hob is insulated with a metal corner.

At the 12th stage, the cooking chamber is designed and the “summer” mode channel is laid. The lower cap ends in the 13th row and is covered with red brick. Change in the 14th row - an oblique undercut of one brick in the right vertical channel.

Rows 15-16 – laying out the first horizontal channel. The 17th is similar, also here the supports for the arch above the hob are placed - a corner and 2 metal strips. At 18-19 the vault is closed, the valve is inserted for the “summer” mode.

20th row - laying the drying niche, the second horizontal channel, as well as the “autumn” valve. 21st – preparation for further blocking of the “summer” channel, formation of a hole for the installation of a cleaning door.

22nd – the “summer” channel is divided in two, in the 23rd they are overlapped. In the 24th row, a small drying chamber is laid; at the next stage, the third horizontal channel and two already formed vertical ones are combined. The 26th is focusing on the horizontal channel, preparations are underway for the introduction of a damper.

The 27th row completes the drying chambers, the next step is to block all the channels, lay out the bricks with a 3 cm protrusion, and remove the main smoke channel. In the 29th row, the protrusion increases by another 3 cm, the formation of the smoke channel continues, the next stage is similar, but in its original dimensions.

At the final positions, the chimney is brought out to a given height.

In winter, all the power of the structure is used, that is, the basic mode is activated. Thanks to the valve, the “summer” stage uses only part of the potential, and the “autumn” stage will allow the use of a little more than half of the channels. These measures allow you to optimize the heating process and save fuel.

And so complete ordering, selection, calculation of the necessary materials and tools for work.

Stoves of various designs came to us in Russia mainly from Europe, and they also began to heat them with white heat abroad, that is, they came up with a chimney to remove stove gases, smoke, soot, and soot. At the beginning of the 18th-19th century, by Decree of the Tsar, our Country switched to the European standard for heating stoves “in white”; before the villages who stoked their huts, the “black” people had to make chimneys. But black heating continued in rare cases until the 20th century)

From the Europeans we received such stove designs as “Swedish” and “Dutch”; from the name it is clear that the first was invented by the Swedes, and the second by the Dutch. Both are based on the principle of fuel economy and maximum heat transfer, as well as simplicity of laying and, of course, functionality. The Shvedka oven includes a cooking chamber with a stove for 2, an oven for baking baked goods and pies, as well as for heating the room in which it is installed.

So, let's look specifically at what is needed to lay a stove?

Materials

1. red ceramic brick
2. fire brick
3. clay (or ready-made masonry mixture)
4. sand
5. cement
6. gravel
7. rubble stone
8. oven door
9. sheet metal oven
10. damper
11. grate
12. metal strip

Tools

1. shovel
2. trowel
3. rule
4. container for preparing the solution
5. plumb line
6. level
7. corner
8. roulette
9. trowel
10. jointing
11. pickaxe (if the ground is rocky)
12. spatula

Step-by-step instructions for laying a Swedish stove with your own hands and ordering.

This type of stove is very economical in terms of building material, namely, according to the author, its creation will require only 500 bricks, excluding pipes. You can also save a little on pipe laying by using used red brick, the price for it is usually half that of a new one, and a thrifty owner always has a good stack of used bricks in his yard, collected brick by brick over several years)

The oven includes a cooking chamber with a 2-burner stove, as well as an oven for baking bread and pies. In general, despite its small size, the oven is quite functional and provides additional benefits in household terms in addition to heating the room.

The stove itself has significant weight and pressure on the ground, so a foundation is required; it is best to fill it at the stages of building a house, to make it easier to remove the soil; if the house has already been built, then you will have to carefully dig a hole under the foundation and carry it out in buckets ground to the street.

You also need to know the characteristics of the soil in your area, the level of groundwater and whether there is quicksand. The depth is generally made at 50 cm, and then the formwork is built, with the expectation that it will be 5 cm below the floor level. The solution is prepared on the basis of cement of a grade not lower than M-400 and sand with filler in the form of gravel and rubble stone. The composition is one part cement, 2 parts sand and 4 parts crushed stone. All this fills the formwork to the very top and is compacted so that air bubbles escape and the solution evenly fills all cavities and cracks. After everything is ready, a chemical reaction and hardening of the cement will begin. For this to happen evenly, it is necessary to periodically moisten the surface with water, so the cement will become more durable.

Professional tool used for laying stoves.

For laying the walls of the stove and chimney channels, ordinary red ceramic bricks are used, but for laying the combustion chamber it is better to take a fireproof one, because it can withstand high temperatures and changes, unlike ordinary bricks, and does not crumble or crack.

The oven also has dampers, oven doors, an oven made of sheet metal (you can weld the oven yourself), a grate, a hob, and a corner.

General view of the Shvedka stove.

And so, first of all, a layer of waterproofing in the form of roofing felt is laid on the foundation, and then the first row of bricks is laid out.

When laying rows 3 and 4, an ash chamber is formed and 3 cleaning doors are installed.

Next, when laying the 5th row, the combustion chamber is laid from refractory bricks, and an oven and grate are also installed. Attention! There should be no connection between refractory and ordinary bricks, because they have different degrees of expansion when heated.

The masonry of the sixth and ninth rows is the combustion chamber; the brick between the oven and the firebox is placed on the edge.

The tenth row is a partition over the oven, and the cavity must be filled with clay-sand mortar.

Then the cooking chamber and chimney channels are formed.

The overlap of the cooking chamber is done as follows, namely, a corner and a metal strip of 4-5 mm are laid.

Then the brickwork is done again.

Doors are installed for cleaning the channels, the gap between the door and the masonry is filled with asbestos cord.

After which comes the formation and laying of chimneys.

Then all the channels are blocked and connected into one chimney. Extension by 5 cm.

Swedish stoves differ from other heating and cooking stoves by the presence of a heating panel in the rear part. This brick panel has a system of gas ducts: vertical or horizontal. The smoke passing through them heats up the structure, and from it the rooms are already heated. The system turns out to be efficient and economical: the heat that went into the chimney in a traditional Russian stove is used to heat the premises. But both shield construction systems (vertical and horizontal) have disadvantages.

With a horizontal arrangement of gas ducts, the entire shield is heated evenly. But such a system requires a large number of cleaning holes and, accordingly, doors on them. Considering that furnace casting is not cheap today, these doors significantly affect the final cost.

If the gas ducts in the swedish are arranged vertically, there can be only one cleaning hatch. But there is another problem: while the stove is heating, in the first channel, on the side where the hot gases from the furnace enter, the shield will be noticeably hotter than in the third - at the exit. Since the shield is usually located in two rooms, one of them will be much warmer than the other.

There is also a third type of shield device: bell-type. It combines the advantages of both systems: one cleaning window is required, the entire surface is heated evenly, and less bricks are required for construction. Moreover, with this design, the oven cools down more slowly: the warmest air stays in the tops of the hoods for a long time, and the “draft” from the doors passes only through the center.

From all that has been said above, it follows that the most economical and effective are Swedes with shields built according to the bell-type principle. They are also easier to manage: it is possible to organize “summer” and “winter” operating modes, in which only a small part of the panel is switched on (in summer) or the entire heating power is turned on in winter. There is even a version of a Swedish stove with three combustion modes: an “autumn” mode is added, in which a little more than half of the chimney channels are involved in the smoke circulation.

Swedish stove with three combustion modes

Traditional options for building a Swedish stove do not provide for any modes. In this regard, especially in winter, it can be difficult to melt it: while the long chimney duct is heating up, smoke can enter the room. If there is at least a “summer” mode, warming up occurs faster. With the valve closed (in summer mode), the switch is melted in winter, opening it after the working piece of the chimney has warmed up. During this time (about five minutes from the moment of kindling), a temperature difference sufficient for normal draft is created and the entire panel can be put into operation.

Although two modes are better than one, three are even better. In case of autumn-spring weather, the stove made by Swede V. Grigoriev has three firing modes, including “autumn”. We will post the order of this oven below.

Materials and spare parts

This Swede with an oven is not very large: the order contains 30 rows (31st and 32-1 are the formation of the pipe). The dimensions of the described furnace are 1140 * 760 mm and a height of 210 cm (plus pipe). For laying without taking into account the pipe you need:

• red solid stove brick - 480 pcs;
• for masonry of the firebox, SHA-8 is used - fire-resistant brick - 129 pcs;
• oven 280*370*310 mm;
• cast iron stove with two burners 410*710 mm;
• grate - 250*300 mm;
• cast iron door for loading fuel 210*250 mm;
• ash door - 140*250 mm;
• door for cleaning hole - 70*130 mm;
• valves:
  • for the chimney, “summer” and “winter” mode - 130*250 mm - 3 pcs;
  • “autumn” mode - 205*250 mm;
• steel corner - for strengthening "hanging" rows - thickness 5 mm, size 50*50 mm, length 730 mm - 2 pcs.
• strip of sheet metal 5 mm thick, 50 mm wide, long
  • 1020 mm,
  • 730 mm - 2 pcs.
  • 500 mm - 2 pcs;
  • 320 mm - 2 pcs;
  • 250 mm.
• pre-furnace steel sheet - 500*700 mm.

Swedish oven with three modes: ordering and making it yourself

In the pictures, ceramic bricks are brown, fireclay bricks are yellow. There are also graphic images (see photos).

The first two rows are laid solid. It is very important to maintain the correct geometry: the angle is strictly 90°, the diagonals are the same. rows are placed with bandaging.

For laying the third row, fireclay bricks (14 +1/2) and one red brick are used. The formation of the ash chamber and the compartment where the oven will be installed begins. A lower cap and a vertical channel leading to it are formed. The bricks that form the passage between the stove hood and the oven chamber are sawn at approximately an angle of 30-40°.

Pay attention! Cleaning holes are left on the side walls - quarter bricks are inserted into them - they protrude beyond the walls by 100 mm. The ash pan door is installed in the same row.

Fourth row - strips of metal block the ash pan door

The fourth row is similar to the previous one. The difference is that the passage between the oven chamber and the hood is made smaller - it is 180 mm. Two metal strips 320 mm long are installed above the installed ash pan door (it is not shown in the figure) (the bricks are slightly filed so that the strips fit into the recesses and there are still 2-3 mm left to the edges of the recess to compensate for thermal expansion). To ensure that the doors hold well, experienced stove makers connect these plates to the door frame by drilling through holes (if the casting is cast iron, this should not be done).

In the fifth row, bricks are laid on strips - the ash pan door is closed. The grate is laid in the same row. The bricks are also ground under it, and so that the size of the “bed” around the entire perimeter is 3-4 mm larger - due to the thermal expansion of cast iron (steel).

In this and the next few rows the masonry is entirely done with fireclay bricks. Please note that the passage between the oven chamber and the hood has become even smaller: it is equal to 100 mm.

The sixth row begins to form the firebox. Please note that two bricks at the entrance to it are cut in half (at 45°). In the diagram, trimmed bricks are indicated in orange. In the same row, the passage between the hood and the oven chamber is blocked and the oven chamber itself is installed (it will not be shown in the following pictures, so as not to overlap the pattern of the bricks).

The sixth row of the order - the formation of the furnace of the Swedish stove

In the seventh row, the formation of the firebox continues and the door is installed.

The next three rows from the eighth to the tenth continue to form the fuel chamber and line the oven with bricks. Please note that there are more and more red bricks.

In the tenth row, the installed oven and firebox door overlap. There is no wall between them in this row: both chambers are combined.

In the eleventh row on the left above the oven, two bricks are placed so that they protrude inward a few centimeters: the “summer” channel will then rest on them.

A bed for a cast iron hob is cut out of the fireclay bricks of this row. The dimensions of the bed are at least 5 mm larger than its dimensions to compensate for thermal expansion. The depth of the cut is such that there is also a distance of at least 5 mm from the top row to the slab.

Asbestos cord is laid in the gaps around the perimeter. To prevent it from becoming clogged with mortar during laying, it can be covered with packaging cardboard (it will burn out when heated).

After the cast iron slab has been laid, its outer edge is covered with a metal corner. This is necessary to ensure that the bricks are not damaged during use.

In the 12th row, an area is formed above the stove - the cooking chamber. A channel is also formed in which smoke will pass when operating in “summer” mode (to the left of the stove). So that in the future the width of the channel will be exactly the same as a brick, the edge of one of the bricks is cut off at an angle.

In the 13th row, the formation of the lower cap ends: it is covered with ceramic bricks. Please note that bricks sawn lengthwise are installed there so that there is room to lay those that form the roof of the cap. In the fourteenth row, one brick of the vertical channel (on the right) is cut obliquely. The rest follows the order scheme.

In the fifteenth and sixteenth rows, the first horizontal channel is formed. In the 15th, half of a brick protrudes on the right, covering the cleaning hole for this channel.

In the 17th row, in addition to forming the channel, a metal corner and two strips 730 mm long are installed. They will serve as support for the roof of the cooking chamber.

In the next, 18th, row, ceramic bricks are laid on supports to cover the vault, leaving an exit from the “summer” channel on the left. The brick at the bottom exit is cut at an angle of 45° (indicated in gray in the diagram).

Installing the “summer” mode valve

In the nineteenth row, the masonry is carried out according to the order. Some bricks are cut to install a valve on the “summer” channel in a Swedish stove, which can operate in three modes.

In the twentieth row we begin to remove the walls of the drying cabinet above the cooking chamber. Immediately the second horizontal channel begins to form and the valve for the “autumn” operating mode of the Swede is installed. This zidvizhka is placed vertically (bricks are also sawed under it).

Installing the valve for the “autumn” mode of the Swedish oven

The twenty-first row of the Swedish stove order prepares the “summer” channel for overlap in the next row. In this row, the bricks in front and behind the channel are released a quarter inward and cut at an angle from below so that there is no step. There remains a small opening on the front side for installing a cleaning door.

It is easier to make this door yourself: it should be a frame about 70 mm deep, inside which a metal door is fixed. To prevent it from overheating, the inside is lined with bricks cut to size, which are placed in the door on a clay mortar.

In the twenty-second row, the right “summer” channel is divided into two. The dividing brick is tucked from below so that the bevel towards the right smoke channel rises (see the figure).

In the next, 23rd row, the “summer” and second horizontal channels overlap. The horizontal channel on the right has an exit, the outermost brick from below is cut at an angle of 45°. On the left side, bricks are cut to install the “winter” mode damper, after which this damper is installed.

In the twenty-fourth row, the walls of the small drying chamber on the left are laid out. In the existing vertical channels, the bricks are cut slightly obliquely, at an angle of 45° (indicated in orange in the diagram).

In the 25th row, the third horizontal channel is combined with the existing two vertical ones. On the right, a brick sticks out of the wall, blocking the cleaning hole of this channel.

In the 26th row, the formation of the horizontal channel continues, and the bricks are also ground down for installation of the damper.

In the twenty-seventh row, the brick, which is laid behind the damper, is cut at an angle of 45°. Metal strips are laid on top of the laid bricks to support the ceiling. A 1020 mm strip is fixed in front, two 500 mm strips cover the large drying chamber, and one short 250 mm strip covers the small drying chamber.

The next row is 28th, covering almost all channels. Moreover, it is larger than the previous one: the bricks protrude 3 cm on all sides. In the place where the main smoke channel passes, the bricks in front and behind are cut at an angle of 45°. At the front, the undercut is at the bottom, at the back at the top (gray and orange in the ordering diagram).

The 29th row has even larger dimensions: the bricks also protrude 3 cm on all sides. The bricks in the area of ​​the smoke channel are also trimmed, but it is now shifted 60 mm closer to the rear wall.

In the 30th row, the overlap returns to its original size. The channel is lined with trimmed bricks, due to which it moves another 60 mm.

The DIY Swedish oven is almost finished. Next comes the laying of the chimney. The layout of its masonry is shown in the 31st and 32nd rows. Then it rises to the required height.

We hope this procedure will help you build a Swedish stove with your own hands. There is an option for an even more compact stove: a tiny stove. It is described in the video.

Do you need a relatively inexpensive and easy-to-install heating stove for your cottage or small home? At one time I looked through many options and couldn’t find anything better than a Swedish oven. Next, I will tell you in detail how to independently assemble such a structure from the foundation to the pipe.

Illustration	Brief description
	Dutch. The classic “Dutch” is intended exclusively for heating the house. Its main advantages are its compactness and relatively low price. But since the Dutch oven does not have a frying surface, people do not favor these stoves. In addition, the efficiency of the Dutch is about a third lower than that of the Swedes.
	Muscovite. This model is considered an improved version of the Swede. With the same dimensions, it is more practical. On the left is a diagram of a Muscovite: Ash pit or “blower”; Soot cleaning hatch; Grate; Firebox; Hob; Closing doors under the hob (installed upon request); Ventilation ducts; Cleaning hatch; Water heating tank; Oven; “Winter” valve; “Summer” valve; Cleaning hatch; Central valve. It is good in operation even for a small house, up to 50 m2 is perfect, but for an amateur it is almost impossible to fold a Muscovite with his own hands.
	Swede with a bed. To some extent, this model can be called a lightweight version of the classic Russian stove, because a stove bench is not just a brick extension, but a plane with full-fledged gentle heating. This Swedish stove is convenient to use, but the design has several serious disadvantages: Large mass; A stove with a stove bench requires a lot of space; For an amateur, the order is quite complicated.
	Swede stove with fireplace. A very convenient option with high efficiency. Typically this design is built between the living room and kitchen. Everything about this stove is good, but, as in the two previous options, putting it together yourself is quite problematic.
	Oven K.Ya. Buslaeva. This heating and cooking stove can claim to be a classic option more than others. With standard dimensions of 1020x770x2010 mm, it can produce up to 3600 kcal/hour, for example, for a Dutch oven, a maximum of 2600 kcal/hour. It is the stove K.Ya. Buslaeva and models close to her are best suited for amateurs.

How to fold a Swedish oven yourself

Any such work requires a certain procedure, in particular this includes:

• Selection of tools;
• Selecting a specific model;
• Purchase of material;
• Laying the foundation;
• Construction of the furnace itself and its commissioning.

Tools and materials

Mandatory tools you will need:

• Shovels- bayonet and shovel;
• Mixing attachment for an electric drill;
• Trough for mixing the solution;
• Trowel;
• Hammers- rubber mallet and mason's hammer;
• Plastering rule length of at least 1.5 m;
• Joining;
• Hydraulic level;
• Construction level(preferably with magnets);
• Plumb;
• Roulette;
• Bulgarian with circles under iron and stone;
• Tile cutter- electric semi-professional (the price for it starts from about 3,000 rubles).

Keep in mind that it will be very difficult to do without a tile cutter. Fireclay refractory and red solid molded bricks are quite strong materials. During the construction process you will have to make up to 200 cuts, even a good grinder is not designed for such a volume, you can simply “ruin” it.

As for the model, a simple Swedish heating and cooking stove with 1 oven and 1 hob is best suited for an amateur. Leave fireplaces, sun loungers and other amenities to the professionals.

Indicative list of materials:

• Red whole-molded fired brick - 550 pcs;
• Fireclay bricks - 70 pcs;

The amount of brick is indicated with a small margin of 5–7%; believe me, a novice stove maker will definitely ruin some of the bricks.

• Door for the firebox - 1 piece;
• Door for ash pan - 1 piece;
• Grate - 1 piece;
• Doors for cleaning channels - 3 pcs;
• Cast iron hob with round burners 410x710 mm - 1 piece;
• Annealed steel wire with a cross section of 3–4 mm or perforated metal tape (for securing the doors);
• Corner 50x50 mm - 7 m;
• Steel strip 50x5 mm - 2 m;
• Oven 450x360x300 mm - 1 piece;
• Valves for regulating flue gases - 3 pcs;
• Masonry mixture - for masonry of the firebox we use the SHA-28 mortar, everything else is laid out on the basis of clay-fireclay oven mortar (it is at least a third cheaper).

Don’t even try to make mortar for laying stoves with your own hands; an amateur stove maker cannot do it. Knowing the proportions is not enough; you also need to understand the types of clay and be able to correctly determine its fat content. Make a mistake once, and then have to redo the whole job.

Laying the foundation

We're done with the preparation, now let's talk about how to make a Swedish stove with your own hands. Under any brick stove you need to pour a foundation, and this structure is done separately. The distance from the stove foundation to the foundation of the house must be at least 100 mm.

Illustrations	Work order
	Scheme. On the left is a classic diagram of laying a furnace foundation. The foundation should be laid just below the freezing point of the soil. But if the house stands on a solid strip foundation and the stove is located in the center of the building, then its foundation can be laid to a depth of 70–80 cm. The monolith should be slightly larger than the stove; a 100–150 mm belt should be left around the perimeter.
	Arrangement of the pillow. The bottom cushion for the foundation can be made of large or medium crushed stone, as in the photo. Mix sand with gravel (fine crushed stone); Pour the mixture into the pit and tamp it well, periodically watering it with water; Cushion thickness 150–200 mm; Further from the ground, to the level of the finished floor, wooden formwork is placed; After that, everything inside, from the sand and gravel cushion to the top, is covered with waterproofing (roofing felt or thick polyethylene 200 microns).
	Installation of reinforcement cage. We knit the reinforcement cage from a rod 10–12 mm thick. The size of the cells in the reinforcement cage is about 150 mm; it rises almost to the very top.
	Pouring concrete. The monolith under the furnace must be poured in 2 steps: First, the main part of the monolith is poured; it is made from the classic one with a ratio of 1: 3: 4 (M500 cement/quarry sand/gravel or medium crushed stone). This layer does not reach the edge 100–150 mm; Next, you need to strengthen the reinforcing cage from above and fill the remaining 100–150 mm with cement-sand mortar in the proportion: 1 part cement to 3 parts sand.
	Leveling the screed. The formwork should be made from planed boards and the top edge should be set strictly horizontally using a level. After pouring the cement-sand mortar, you simply take a plaster rule and use it to level the surface under the stove, as shown in the diagram.
	Aging of concrete. Concrete matures for 28 days and to build a furnace it is advisable to wait this entire period; if you are in a big hurry, you can start construction in 3 weeks, but not earlier. In the first week, the monolith should be regularly watered and covered with polyethylene so that it dries out less.

How to install a Swedish stove

Illustrations	Work order
	Waterproofing. Waterproofing in 2 layers is laid on the concrete monolith. Any membrane will do here; the most affordable and proven option is roofing felt.
	Furnace masonry. The first 2 bottom rows are made solid, the main thing here is to respect the dimensions and maintain the horizon. If the foundation plane is not level, then these two rows can correct the flaws and level the horizon of the furnace.
	3rd row. From the third row of the furnace masonry we already form the ash chamber (1), the lower heating chamber (2) and the smoke exhaust vertical channels (1, 2, 3) Moreover, channels 2 and 3 are combined. Holes are left on the sides of the chambers and channels for the installation of cleaning hatches. Please note - we place 4 bricks in this row on the edge and at the entrance to 1 channel, a quarter of the fireclay brick is placed.
	Bookmarking the doors. At the same stage, the lower doors are laid. All doors have holes at the edges; burnt steel wire is tied to them and embedded in the masonry.
	4–5 rows. In the 4th row we simply continue laying. In the 5th row we make ceilings for all the lower doors and lay them “under” (the bottom) of the combustion chamber with fireclay bricks. First, you need to select a groove in the refractory bricks for installing the grate. Groove depth 20–30 mm.
	6 row. In this row, the walls of the firebox, the doors of the firebox and the base for the oven are laid. The walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks placed on edge. A wall is laid between the firebox and the oven. Plus, in row 6, a demarcation jumper is installed between channels 2 and 3.
	7-8 rows. Row 7 is a continuation of row 6. In the 8th row of fireclay bricks, a jumper is installed between the first ventilation duct and the space for the oven.
	9 row. Here we continue everything the same, only we put a cover on the firebox door.
	10 row. In this row we cover the oven and cut out a seat for the hob in the brick. Please note: a window is left between the firebox and the oven; at this level they must communicate.
	Hob installation. The arrow shows the place that is not covered with refractory bricks, where a kind of window is obtained. The slab needs to be “planted” not just on the mortar, but also a 5 mm thick basalt cardboard gasket must be placed in the groove; accordingly, when cutting the groove, these 5 mm must be taken into account.
	Cooking chamber. The cooking chamber is the niche above the hob. In the 11th row we install the base of the cooking chamber and lay in the window near the stove that we have left. At the same time, we place the red brick across.
	From rows 12 to 16 we lay out the cooking chamber.
	Corners. After finishing the laying of the 16th row, we install 4 corners above the cooking chamber. Two singles on the edges, towards each other and 1 paired in the center.
	Covering the cooking chamber. Rows 17 and 18 are laid the same way. This is the arch of the cooking chamber, but on the left in the far corner of the arch there is a steam exhaust duct the size of half a brick. On top of the 18th row, another metal corner is installed along the outer edge.
	Laying out the dryers. The next 4 rows (from 19 to 22) are laid out exactly the same, these will be dryers. After the 22nd row, we cover the leftmost dryer with a metal sheet; the sheet extends 20–30 mm onto the edges of the brick.
	23 row. In row 23, we need to install an adjustable valve on the steam exhaust duct. To do this, we pre-cut a niche in the brick according to the dimensions of the valve; it should be a couple of millimeters larger than the valve itself.
	24 row. This row covers the valve and almost completely repeats the previous one. The only difference is that we no longer make a jumper between the first and second smoke exhaust channels.
	25 row. In this row, the steam exhaust duct is connected to the third smoke exhaust duct.
	Rows 26–27. They fit exactly the same. Once complete, they are fitted with an outer corner and a pair of metal strips above the large right-hand drying chamber.
	Laying sheets under the ceiling. We need the corner and strips as stiffening ribs for the top metal sheet. This sheet covers almost the entire plane, leaving only the third smoke exhaust channel free. The minimum sheet thickness is 2 mm, but it is better to take a sheet with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm.
	Lay out the pediment. The next 2 rows are mounted in the same way, but each of them protrudes 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the stove.
	Next row We return it to its place, that is, lay it out according to traditional dimensions. As a result, we got a beautiful antique pediment.
	Pipe laying. In the first row of the chimney, we again make a cutout for the valve and insert the valve.
	Second row of pipe. Then the pipe is laid out exactly to the very end, its height varies according to location.

Firing the furnace

After completion of construction, the structure must be allowed to dry “cold” - do not touch it for 2 weeks. It is best to complete construction in the summer, so it will dry out faster.

Commissioning takes 10–12 days:

1. During the first 3 days, 3–4 kg of straw or hay is burned in the oven;
2. Then for 2 days we heat it with straw and wood chips, take the same amount of straw and about 2k g of wood chips;
3. Then we heat it with dry wood for a couple more days, about 3–5 kg per day;
4. The next 3-4 days progress, the stove is heated with wood and coal, and it needs to be heated 2-3 times a day;
5. After a couple of weeks, we continuously heat the stove all day long with dry aspen wood, coal or coke.

If the stove has been standing all winter in a cold room, then it also needs to be started carefully in 2 stages:

1. First you need to open the hatch below the pipe and put crumpled newspaper there, at the same time we put firewood in the firebox. After that, set fire to the newspaper and wait a couple of minutes;
2. After a couple of minutes, while the newspaper is still burning, we set fire to the wood in the firebox. The newspaper will give the initial movement and start the draft, as a result the firewood should light up normally.

Operating principle

The high efficiency of the Swede is due to the proper distribution of flue gases:

• From the firebox, gases pass under the hob and enter the oven compartment;
• Having gone around the oven, the gases enter the lower part of the first smoke exhaust channel, which is located on the back side;
• Then the flue gases move like a snake, that is, through the second intermediate channel they enter the third and go into. Thus, almost all the heat remains in the house.

Conclusion

A Swedish stove with oven and stove represents the presence of warmth and delicious food in the house. The important advantages of the oven include: small footprint, minimal fuel consumption, as well as the ability to simultaneously heat and prepare culinary products. Below is information that will help our readers lay out such a stove with their own hands.

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Operating principle of the furnace

An important distinguishing feature of the “Swedish” is maximum heat. If we compare its design with channel variations, there the heat is released through a pipe and heats the combined channels, and in the “Shvedka” the cooking plate and oven are heated at the same time.

In a vertically built oven, the channel openings are located behind the main device. Unlike other varieties, there is no overheating of the lower part in the furnace and the amount of soot is noticeably reduced.

The oven compartment in a buffet oven serves as heating. The main heat is concentrated in this part. The heating wave spreads in just 2-3 minutes from the floor to the very top.

The schematic designation can be seen in the figure below:

Construction materials

If we take as a basis the structure of a “Swedge” of a traditional type with a power of 3.2 kW (for an area of ​​40 sq.m., and if we rely on decent insulation, its size will increase to 50 sq.m.).

To work, you need to purchase the following materials:

• fireclay bricks (ША-8) in the amount of 33 pieces;
• solid ceramic bricks - 552 pieces;
• oven device with dimensions 45x25x29 centimeters;
• grate format - 20x30 centimeters;
• cast iron cooking panel - 410x710 millimeters;
• fuel door - 21x25 centimeters;
• rubber door (in 3 copies) - 14x14 centimeters;
• ash pan barrier - 14x25 centimeters;
• chimney valve - 25x13 centimeters;
• damper for hood - 13x13 centimeters;

In order to form a niche, you need a steel equilateral corner with a width of 4.5 centimeters and a tire 5x0.5 centimeters.

Tools

• Shovels of bayonet and scoop types;
• Container for preparing the solution;
• Electric drill and mixing attachment;
• Mason's hammer and rubber mallet;
• Trowel;
• Joining;
• Construction level (preferably using magnets);
• Plaster rule measuring 1.5 meters in length;
• Plumb;
• Grinder for iron and stone;
• Measuring tape;
• Construction stapler;
• electric tile cutter (it is possible to use a semi-professional device).

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Before you begin construction, you should carefully think through the design of the future device, choose the location wisely and prepare a foundation that will allow the structure to last for many years.

Selecting a location

The location of the “Shvedka” depends on a number of conventions:

• room area;
• roof features;
• location of doors and other objects in the room (there must be no such objects near the future device).

In addition to choosing a location from an aesthetic point of view, you should think in advance about how the chimney channel will go.

IMPORTANT: Before starting laying, it is necessary to lay out the stove without mortar. This allows you to once again evaluate whether the amount of building materials has been thought out correctly and to foresee possible difficulties that may arise during the work process.

Foundation arrangement

Regardless of the type and design differences of the furnace, the main and main stage on which the correct functioning and long service life depends - correctly installed according to all standards.

The best option involves laying the foundation for the Shvedka during the construction of the house itself. However, most often the owners decide to build a stove in an entire building. In this situation, it is necessary to separate the foundation for the furnace from the main one. If the foundation of the house has shrinked, further construction will be problematic.

To arrange the foundation, it is necessary to provide a deepening of up to 80 centimeters (if the construction of the stove takes place in a previously built house with a wooden floor). The process consists of the following steps:

• The surface is preliminarily marked with a marker. The length and width will be required to plan the location of the future building. To each of these parameters you should add 10 centimeters. It is advisable to draw lines for a visual representation.
• Using a grinder, a hole is cut out on the floor according to the markings.
• Next, you need to mark the soil located under the floor and build a foundation.
  1. To do this, dig a hole (based on the markings made) using a bayonet shovel.
  2. The bottom should be compacted and covered with sand.
  3. It is necessary to pour a bucket of plain water evenly into the resulting hole and tamp the sand again. The thickness of the sand layer should not be less than 15 centimeters (if you take into account the hole about 80 centimeters deep). As the pit depth increases, the sand layer should be increased proportionally.
  4. After the sand, pour a 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone and compact it with a bayonet shovel.
• When all the preliminary steps have been completed, it is necessary to prepare wooden formwork for the foundation. For its construction, you can take previously used boards. A layer of polyethylene or roofing felt should be laid and secured around the perimeter.
• The base for the stove is built as follows:
  1. The formwork is raised by an amount equal to 1 brick above the base of the floor.
  2. The solution for building the foundation is being prepared. It is advisable to arm yourself with crushed stone, sand and cement for these purposes. Afterwards, the hole is filled to 15 centimeters with the solution.
  3. The structure should be strengthened with a layer of reinforcement, after installing which the solution should be refilled.
  4. Next, prepare a solution of a different consistency to fill the remaining area of ​​the pit. Crushed stone (used in larger sizes), as well as cement mortar and sand. All components should be passed through a construction mixer. This will allow you to get a more reliable consistency.
  5. The dug hole is filled with solution to the height of the soil, leveled and left for several hours to set. Afterwards, another layer of reinforcement is laid and they wait another 60 minutes, during which a slight shrinkage occurs.
• To reinforce the foundation you need:
  1. Pour the remaining mortar over the reinforcement until the boundaries of the formwork are covered. Level the mortar with a shovel, and use a level to check the foundation for errors and, if necessary, level it again and leave the resulting structure for 30 days.
  2. After the time specified above, you should make sure that the solution has completely hardened and remove the formwork that rises above the floor surface.
• At the last stage of preparing the base, it is important to create waterproofing. According to the size of the foundation, you will need several layers of roofing felt glued together (or less expensive basalt cardboard in 3 layers, taking into account the 5 mm thickness). This material is laid on a leveled foundation. After all the preliminary steps described above, you can begin laying out the oven itself. First, on the waterproofing layer, it is necessary to mark the first masonry row, the evenness of which will determine the structural integrity of the entire structure.

Lay out the oven

When building a Swedish stove with an oven with your own hands, the order designed for laying out with your own hands, which is presented below, will help:

Description of order with photo:

1. The first 2 rows are laid out completely. This is the reference point for the main design. Use measuring tools and observe angles.
   
   
2. The third and fourth rows serve to build an ash chamber designed to accumulate ash. During laying, 3 doors are installed, which can be secured with metal wire hidden under the solution.
   
   
3. On the fifth row, the stove and oven are formed and installed. The lining of the combustion chamber with refractory bricks begins. It is recommended to do this from the right side to the left. After installing the grille, a gap of up to 5 millimeters is made in case the metal expands at temperature. You can fill this gap with ash. At the end of the formation of the ash chamber, a damper is installed. The ash pit structure is laid out with fireclay bricks. At the same stage, the oven is formed and the laying out of the chimneys begins.
   
4. In subsequent rows up to the 9th row, a combustion chamber is laid out, the door of which is placed with a gap of about 5 millimeters, which is covered with an asbestos cord. Between the oven and the firebox, the stamped brick must be laid on edge.
   
   
   
5. In the masonry of the 10th row, the oven is blocked and a partition is placed with the firebox, which rises by 2 centimeters. Afterwards, a layer of solution is placed on the oven to the level of the partition. A corner measuring 10x4x4 centimeters is placed under the tile.
6. The 11th row is devoted to laying the hob and forming channels for the chimney.
   
   
   
   
7. On rows 12-16 the cooking chamber and chimney channels are laid. It is important to consider suture dressing.
   
   
   
8. The cooking chamber is overlapped on rows 17 and 18. Bricks should be laid on strip steel elements and angles. This structure is secured by a wire fixed in solution.
   
   
   
   
   

ATTENTION: All gaps between bricks and other elements should be closed with asbestos cord.

Laying out the chimney should begin in increments of 5 bricks. Three rows before the end, it is necessary to install a “fluff” in order to protect the wooden elements. In this compartment, the thickness of the pipe should be equal to one and a half bricks. It is important to round the corners when finishing, otherwise the traction will be weaker.

According to the standards, the pipe must rise 60 centimeters above the roof. A special cap should be attached to the top of the structure.

It is strictly forbidden to try to light the stove immediately after laying. You must wait up to 15 days to dry it. The solution must completely harden. If you can't wait for this to happen naturally, try using a fan.

• After completing the first stage of drying, the stove must be gradually put into operation and begin to be heated with small portions of firewood to warm it up to low temperatures. It is recommended to do this continuously for the next 2 weeks.
• Paper can help assess the state of drying. Crumple up a few sheets and place them in the cleaning holes. If the paper stops getting damp, this is a sure sign that drying has ended. Then you can start using the stove gradually.
• For the next three days, the stove is heated in the morning and evening with an increase in the amount of firewood to increase the intensity of the operation of this device.
• It is not recommended to use birch or pine firewood for “Swedish”. They produce a lot of heat and a lot of soot. Aspen is best suited for these purposes.

A heating and cooking stove with an oven is an excellent solution for a residential building with a small area. If it comes to an irregularly heated room, a slightly different structure will do. You can lay out the “Swedish” design yourself using the instructions given above.

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