How to make fireplaces with your own hands. How to make a fireplace in your home with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

How to properly place a fireplace in your home

So, you have decided that for complete happiness you need in the house fireplace? Before choosing a specific type of fireplace, its model and design, you should decide where this device will be located.

Photo: How to position a fireplace

C specialists attach great importance to the correct location of the fireplace, weighing the pros and cons for a long time.
Firstly, it should be taken into account that the device will take up a certain place in the house and will take away square meters from the room. The fireplace can be attached(5) to the wall of the room in which it is located. can be frontal (3) or, depending on the location in relation to the corners of the room. There are also central fireplaces (4), located in the center of the room, without touching its walls. In such a fireplace, the firebox may be one-sided, that is, the door faces one way (two parallel walls are equipped with glass doors), or there may be no firebox at all. There are open fireplaces that do not have a combustion chamber at all, but only a stone hearth, above which a smoke collector hangs. You can freely approach such a fireplace from any direction. The main problem with an open hearth is how to hide or decorate the chimney, because a huge chimney in the middle of the room will not add beauty to it. Industrially manufactured fireplaces have no problems with fire safety.
There are also fireplaces that are “recessed” into the wall (1), such a fireplace will take up space in the next room, but the undoubted advantage of this arrangement is that the fireplace can heat two rooms at the same time.

VIDEO: Important details that must be observed when laying out a fireplace.

Secondly, it is not recommended to place the fireplace opposite the entrance to the room, as well as to the side of the entrance in close proximity to it. The fact is that an open flame “does not like” sharp gusts of wind, which are inevitable with such an arrangement.
Recently, foreign magazines often publish designs of houses where the fireplace is, as it were, attached to the outer wall of the house. In this case, only the portal with a decorative frame remains in the room, and the rest is located on the street, without taking away space from the room and without spoiling its design with elements that are not the most aesthetic (chimney). However, what is good from the point of view of aesthetics and saving living space is completely unsuitable for Russian weather conditions, since the issue of insulating the chimney, condensation in the chimney, and, consequently, soot and smoke from the fireplace in the room immediately arises. In addition, despite all the insulation measures, a significant part of the thermal energy generated by such a fireplace will still be spent on “heating” the street. So, for Russian climatic conditions, it is still optimal to install a fireplace next to the inner wall of the house.

Photo: Location of pipe and chimney

“We lay out the fireplace with our own hands. Advice from the experts"

As a rule, fireplaces are installed near the load-bearing wall of the house. The fireplace should not be overcooled.
It is not recommended to install a fireplace in places where there is a draft, also near steps and in rooms up to 20 square meters. meters. It is advisable to arrange a resting place near the fireplace.

When designing a fireplace, analyze the maximum load that the house's floors and its foundation can withstand. It is also necessary to correctly calculate the location of the chimney with rafters and floor beams.

Fireplace parameters

When starting to build a fireplace, you must strictly adhere to the rules of masonry. A fireplace is much easier to make than a stove - since the design of the chimney is not so complicated. However, this has its drawbacks - the heat transfer of the fireplace is small, about 20%.

Photo:

1-smoke collector; 2 - mantel; 3 - fireplace portal; 4 - firebox; 5 - under the fireplace; 6 - pre-furnace platform; 7 - pre-furnace sheet; A is the width of the portal; B - height of the portal; B is the depth of the firebox; G - neck height; a is the depth of the pipe section; b - pipe section width

MAIN DIMENSIONS OF FIREPLACES (cm) DEPENDING ON THE AREA OF THE PREMISES

Room area m2
16-18
18-20
20-21

A lot depends on the shape of the smoke chamber. Its bottom serves to protect the firebox from the flow of cold air that penetrates through the pipes. Wood in a fireplace can be burned either on the floor of the firebox, on a grate, or in a metal basket. If firewood is burned on a grate or in a basket, the ash pan space is used as an additional air supply. Very often, special thermal chambers are constructed in fireplaces, due to which the air in the room is heated from the heated walls of the firebox.
The fireplace is made of brick, and the masonry of the body is made of solid red brick made of clay or fireclay. It is better to lay the pipe using slotted bricks. Used bricks should not be used to make the part of the fireplace that heats up, especially if they were laid with lime mortar.

Sequencing.

The amine is prepared in the following sequence. First, we lay out the bricks - first the first row, after that we lay out the chimney row. Then we lower plumb lines to the corners of the pipe so that the distance between the floor beams and the pipe is at least 12 cm - so that a horizontal fireproof groove can be installed. You must then use a cord to check that the corners are laid correctly. To do this, measure the distance diagonally between opposite corners - it should not be more than 5 cm.

The ash pan is a rigid box that makes cleaning the fireplace easier. For manufacturing, it is necessary to lay out brick walls no more than 50 cm high. And then lay 2 steel T-profiles and a corner.
Please note that the bottom of the firebox must be fireproof. A grate is made in the center to collect ash. In order for there to be more heat radiation, the inner walls of the firebox must be beveled.

Photo: Gate valve

The fireplace is made in such a way that it is possible to regulate the inflows and outflows of air - for this purpose a valve made of sheet steel is installed on the smoke chamber. The valve must be closed and opened using a rod. Access to the damper must be provided from any part of the fireplace.
The fireplace can be finished with red bricks, it can be plastered and tiled.

Describes step-by-step instructions for building a fireplace with your own hands

First, you need to draw the future fireplace. For this, it is best to use graph paper. Each brick row should be marked on the drawing. This is necessary to simplify further work.

I repeat, it is important, in addition to the design, to think about the location of the future hearth. It is best to mount the fireplace near the main wall of the house. The room must be more than 20 square meters. m. without stairs or drafts.
The base of the fireplace must be made of non-combustible materials. This is especially important if the country house is made of wood. When calculating the size of the fireplace, you must take into account the parameters of the room in which it will be installed. Thus, the portal area is usually 0.02 units. from the area of ​​the room.

A properly rebuilt fireplace will work for you for many years, and, conversely, a fireplace that is faulty can bring a lot of trouble, even leading to a fire. Therefore, the construction of a fireplace must be taken very seriously, starting with the choice of materials.

Materials for construction: brick, clay, sand, cement, special binding mortar for masonry. The bricks used for fireplaces are fireproof and red. Each brick should be inspected separately before purchase. If you need to tap everything with a hammer. Bricks without cracks, chips or chips are selected for the fireplace. To build a medium-sized fireplace, you usually need about 280-300 pieces.

Photo:

Construction begins with the foundation. The fireplace is usually placed on a concrete base from 0.8 to 1.4 m - this depends on the size and location. It also needs to be protected from soil moisture. It should not be connected to the main foundation of the building. You need to dig a deep pit under the foundation. Pour crushed stone into its bottom and compact it. The foundation can be poured (liquid concrete is used) or brick (bricks are installed on edge and held together with high-strength cement).

Laying the fireplace should begin with corner bricks. Then the outer row is laid, followed by the middle. The joints between the bricks should be thin, but completely filled with concrete. The walls inside the firebox and channels cannot be plastered. Therefore, during the construction process, you need to wipe them with a wet rag to remove excess mortar. When building a chimney, the inside must be wiped with a rag soaked in a clay solution. The pipe will be smooth and the smoke will come out freely.

Soil freezing depth

Interactive table for calculating the depth of soil freezing in the following cities: Omsk, Novosibirsk, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk, Kurgan, Kustanai, Sverdlovsk, Chelyabinsk, Perm, Syktyvkar, Ufa, Aktyubinsk, Orenburg, Kirov, Izhevsk, Kazan, Ulyanovsk, Samara, Uralsk, Vologda , Kostroma, Penza, Saratov, Tver, Moscow, St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd, Guryev, Pskov, Smolensk, Kursk, Tallinn, Kharkov, Astrakhan, Riga, Minsk, Kyiv, Rostov-on-Don, Dnepropetrovsk, Frunze, Almaty , Kaliningrad, Lvov, Nikolaev, Chisinau, Odessa, Simferopol, Sevastopol.

Soil freezing calculator!

Fireplaces simultaneously heat and decorate the surrounding space. You can handle laying a brick fireplace on your own. You just need to read the manual and do everything in accordance with the instructions.

How to build a fireplace with your own hands

Place for a fireplace

You can attach the fireplace to the wall, make it free-standing, or build it into the wall. The hearth can also be erected in the corner of the room.

Remember to have an efficient and reliable chimney. The standard length of the smoke exhaust structure is 4-5 m. In some situations, this figure increases to 700 cm.

Place for a fireplace

Fireplace chimney

In a room with a fireplace, high-quality ventilation must be organized.

The actual construction of the fireplace is carried out on a solid platform that can support the weight of the finished structure.

Determination of basic dimensions

The ratio of the size of the fireplace and the room

Perform the necessary preliminary calculations. Determine the volume of the room allocated for the construction of the fireplace. The firebox opening should be 1/50 of the room volume you calculated.

The height of the portal should be 2 times the depth of the firebox.

The dimensions and ratios given are very important. If the depth of the firebox is greater than the permissible value, the fireplace will significantly lose heat output. With a smaller firebox size, smoke will occur.

Select the dimensions of the smoke openings taking into account the dimensions of the combustion area. The cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney should be 10-15 times smaller than the area of ​​the firebox.

The optimal diameter of round chimneys is 100-150 mm. The length of the smoke exhaust pipe can reach 500 cm or more.

Preparation of materials

Prepare the required amount of ceramic bricks (determine in accordance with the planned dimensions and design of the fireplace). Also prepare fireclay bricks for arranging the firebox.

Fireclay brick

Fireclay clay

Additionally, prepare the following:

• mixture for bricklaying;
• 12mm glass-magnesium sheet;
• chimney;
• oven tape for mounting accessories;
• metal corners;
• chimney view.

Before starting work, cover everything that needs to be protected from contamination with polyethylene.

Fireplace base

Fireplace foundation

The foundation design will include metal corners. They will additionally increase the strength of the site and protect it from destruction during seasonal changes in the soil.

Dig a hole for arranging the foundation in accordance with the design dimensions.

Fill the bottom of the hole with a sand and gravel mixture. Seal the pillow and place metal corners on it. Double the corner so that the most reliable and durable base is created during the laying process. It is recommended to weld the corners so that they do not move in the future.

In this case, the corners must be mounted in such a way that the masonry elements installed later are located parallel to the interior partition connected to the fireplace (if this design option is chosen).

Place bricks in the corners, fill the entire structure with cement mortar and carefully level it using a plaster trowel.

The thickness of the solution should approximately correspond to the thickness of sour cream. With this consistency, the solution will be able to penetrate into all the cracks of the masonry without leaving the seams.

Ensure the base is horizontal. To eliminate surface unevenness, use the same cement mortar. Leave the structure to dry for a couple of days.

Masonry

Scheme for laying rows for a corner fireplace

English fireplace arrangement

Cover the dried foundation with a double layer of roofing felt. This will provide the necessary protection for the base.

Prepare mortar for brickwork. Traditionally, fireplaces are laid using a solution based on pre-soaked clay.

Laying the first row is best done using mortar with a small addition of cement (approximately 10-20% of the total mass of the mixture).

Calibrate the bricks in advance, selecting the most suitable sized products for laying each row.

Before starting laying, immerse the bricks in water for a while. This will allow the products to become saturated with moisture. Otherwise, the bricks will take water from the clay mortar, which will lead to a significant deterioration in the quality of the masonry.

Lay out the first row of bricks edgewise. Check that the row is laid out correctly with a square and level. Make sure the opposite sides and diagonals of the base are the same length.

The masonry is carried out in accordance with the order. The following will be a procedure that is relevant for most existing types of fireplaces. For the rest, rely on the drawings you have.

First step

Lay out three continuous rows of the base.

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Second step

Lay out 4-5 rows with an ash pan.

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Third step

Lay out 6-7 rows with the arrangement of the bottom and frame of the brick fireplace.

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Circle and formwork for masonry arch substructure

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Fourth step

Continue laying. Up to the 13th row inclusive, form the walls of the firebox of the heating unit.

Fifth step

Lay out rows 14-19 with a smoke collector.

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Sixth step

Lay out 20-25 rows of the fireplace with a chimney arrangement.

Arrange the base and continuous rows of masonry using a trowel or trowel. The chimney and fuel chamber are laid out manually, because At these stages it is very important to control the quality of the solution used.

Apply fireplace mortar to the middle of the bricks. The edges of the elements must remain free.

When laying out each row, adhere to the chosen order. For greater convenience, you can number the products.

Pay special attention to the quality of the masonry of the fuel compartment and smoke exhaust ducts - these elements must be laid out as evenly as possible and as airtight as possible.

Remove excess masonry mortar immediately.

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

To form a beautiful curved fireplace arch, perform a gradual overlap of masonry elements. It is important that the overlap size does not exceed 50-60 mm in each row.

The construction of curved lintels is carried out using temporary formwork - circles. To fix such formwork, use supports under the fireplace vault being installed.

Start laying from the brick installed in the center, and then carry out symmetrical laying in both directions.

Periodically check the verticality of the smoke exhaust pipe. Even the slightest deviations from the vertical can lead to smoke in the room.

Laying a fireplace, step-by-step instructions

To lay the chimney, use a mortar with added cement, similar to the mixture used when laying out the fireplace base.

The smoke exhaust pipe must be covered with a layer of fire-resistant insulation to increase fire safety. Insulation is installed where pipes pass through the structure of the house (floors, roofing, etc.). The most commonly used insulation materials are asbestos based.

Fireplace chimney

Finishing

To give the fireplace a more attractive appearance, finish it. The most commonly used finishing methods are:

• painting;
• plastering;
• facing with tiles, stone and other similar materials. Finishing

Choose a specific finishing option at your discretion. If you like the fireplace without finishing cladding, unstitch the masonry seams using a special tool and thoroughly clean the surface of the structure from excess mortar.

Important: only fire-resistant paints and varnishes can be used to paint the fireplace.

Otherwise, the appearance of the fireplace depends solely on your imagination and personal preferences.

Good luck!

– How to build a fireplace with your own hands

Source: //stroyday.ru/stroitelstvo-doma/pechi-i-sistemy-otopleniya/kak-postroit-kamin-svoimi-rukami.html

How to lay out a fireplace with your own hands - step-by-step instructions!

Home improvement involves performing a wide variety of work related to finishing, laying communications, arranging various systems, etc.

There are a number of universal solutions that allow you to simultaneously perform several important tasks. And one of them is laying out a fireplace with your own hands.

A well-built unit will not only be a source of heat, but also an excellent addition to the interior.

How to lay out a fireplace with your own hands

Selection and preparation of materials for laying a fireplace

To install a fireplace yourself, you need to use the highest quality materials possible. They must be fireproof, so the process of selecting the necessary materials should be approached with the utmost responsibility.

DIY brick fireplace

Fireplaces are made of metal and brick. Metal structures are the easiest to install - you just need to buy the model you like and install it on a prepared base.

However, despite their ease of installation, metal fireplaces cause many inconveniences during further operation, related, first of all, to the safety of the residents of the house.

The metal becomes very hot and can cause serious burns and other damage.

Therefore, it is strongly recommended to refrain from installing such equipment where small children live.

With intensive use, metal products burn out quite quickly. On average, after a few years such a fireplace becomes unusable. Therefore, it is better to approach the issue thoroughly and lay out a full-fledged brick fireplace.

This design will require the construction of an individual foundation. The laying is carried out using a special solution, which will be discussed below.

Special attention should be paid to the choice of the main building material. Only fireclay bricks are suitable for laying a fireplace. The manufacturing technology of this material is such that, as a result of numerous treatments, its properties become similar to those of natural stone. The brick becomes as resistant to high temperatures and temperature changes as possible.

Fireclay brick, shades

Before use, the product must be left in water for about three days. This will allow you to remove excess air from the bricks and obtain masonry of the highest possible quality.

What to prepare mortar for laying a fireplace from?

Clay for fireplace masonry

The first stage is choosing clay. To prepare the solution, a small amount of elementary and widely available components is used. The traditional option is an aqueous solution of clay. Special attention must be paid to the choice of the main component of the solution. In nature, this material can have different characteristics, according to which it is divided into normal, lean and fat.

Only normal clay is suitable for preparing masonry mortar. In other cases, it will be necessary to include additional elements, which will not have the best effect on the final financial costs.

How to prepare clay

The second stage is preparing the clay for work. Take normal clay and soak it for 2-3 days in a large container of water.

Fireplace mortar

The third stage is preparing the mortar for masonry. Usually the solution is mixed using a shovel. If desired, this can be done with your feet, after putting on high rubber shoes.

Carefully monitor the condition of the solution and promptly remove various debris when it appears. If you can’t find normal clay, you can take skinny clay and add fatty clay to it.

You cannot use fatty and lean clay separately.

The fourth stage is checking the readiness of the clay. Before use, the resulting mass must be tested for strength. To do this, make a couple of small balls. Place one of them in some dry, dark place to dry.

Flatten the second one into a flat cake and place it next to the first product. After a couple of days, evaluate the condition of the cake and the ball. If the material is covered with cracks, the solution is too greasy and you need to add some kind of binder, for example, cement.

If there are no cracks, the solution is normal or thin.

Oily clay

Skinny clay “in its pure form” is not suitable for use. To deal with this point, try to break a clay ball on a table, floor or other similar surface. If the ball breaks, the solution is thin and you need to add some more fatty clay to it. If the ball does not break, you can begin laying.

A step-by-step guide to laying your own fireplace

Brick fireplace diagram

The first stage is choosing a place to build a fireplace. First of all, remember that the fireplace should not be placed in close proximity to flammable products. Examine the ceiling and roof of your home. To install a fireplace, you need to choose a place so that the chimney does not pass through beams and crosscuts.

The second stage is preparation for laying the foundation. The fireplace is built on an individual foundation. First, a recess is prepared for pouring concrete. Add 100-150 mm on each side to the dimensions of the future fireplace, and you will get the optimal dimensions of the foundation.

The depth of the hole is selected individually. Traditionally it is 300-500 mm. The specific value is determined in accordance with the characteristics of the soil composition.

For example, if there is a lot of sand in the soil, a 30-centimeter depression will be sufficient. Otherwise you'll have to dig a little deeper.

First, the bottom of the pit is covered with a small layer of sand, which must be compacted. Afterwards a layer of crushed stone is poured.

Corner brick fireplace

The third stage is preparing and pouring the solution. For such a foundation, a simple cement mortar is suitable. Prepare it from part of the cement, the same volume of water and 3 times more sand.

Mix the ingredients thoroughly until a homogeneous mass is obtained and pour it into the prepared pit. Level the solution using a trowel.

Wait until the cement hardens, lay a waterproofing material on top of the pouring material (usually roofing felt is used, laid in 2 layers) and begin laying.

The fourth stage is the installation of formwork. At this stage you need to install the formwork. Prepare wooden boards, beams, plates and wedges. Wedges are placed under wooden blocks.

The fifth stage is laying out the supporting parts. Mark the rows along the formwork, taking into account the thickness of future seams. The fireplace will consist of an odd number of rows of masonry. The central brick is usually called the castle brick. It is installed vertically, at a central point.

Fireplace diagram

The sixth stage is the creation of a wedge lintel. This element should be laid on both sides in the direction of the castle brick. Laying is done so that in the central part the lintel can be easily wedged with the center brick. Use a cord to check the seams are correct. Secure it at the junction of the lintel with the side partitions.

The side walls must have sufficient thickness and width, otherwise they simply will not cope with the incoming loads. Where the wedge lintel meets the side partitions, you need to make ties. To create them, steel strips are used. The ends of such strips should be bent upward.

The seventh stage is the installation of arched and beam type lintels. The structure of these elements differs from the design of the wedge lintel. The surfaces of the jumpers in question must form arcs with a certain radius.

In the case of beam-type jumpers, their radius should exceed half the distance between the side posts. The jumpers in question are laid out evenly on both sides. Pay attention to the seams - they should be wedge-shaped.

Arrangement of lintels and arches

It is important to maintain the correct width of the seams: at the top it should be about 2.4 cm, at the bottom – 0.3 cm.

Use a cord to check the accuracy of the brickwork and joints. Wedge the lintel with the locking brick.

The lintels must be allowed to settle in the formwork. The exposure time will vary. The specific period depends on the ambient temperature and the quality of the solution. For example, in the summer this may take 1-3 weeks. The colder it is, the longer it will take.

The eighth stage is laying out the firebox. At this stage, special attention must be paid to the rear wall of the firebox. If it is planned to install screens in the wall, the laying is carried out according to the pattern. An edged board is suitable for making patterns.

Corner fireplace. Firebox laying

Select the appropriate shape and dimensions of the template in accordance with the existing drawing of the unit being built.

Be extremely careful when laying a fireplace. Refer to the available drawings. Errors when laying even a single brick will inevitably lead to disruption of the masonry of further rows, and it will not be possible to correct the defects in all situations. Therefore, it is better to immediately do everything as required by the technology.

Finishing of the unit

Think about finishing issues in advance. If desired, the fireplace can not be finished at all, but it is better to decorate the structure with tiles or at least treat it with plaster.

The design made using decorative bricks looks beautiful. However, installing such cladding requires certain skills and experience, so beginners are not recommended to undertake it. Even the slightest mistakes can lead to damage to the decor and simply a waste of money.

Tiles finishing is very beautiful and easy to do. It is not recommended to use tiles for facing the fireplace. Temperature changes will gradually destroy even the highest quality glue. It is recommended to pay attention to this option only if you are ready to periodically carry out repairs and restoration of the finish.

The chimney traditionally has a size of 1.5 x 1 brick. To improve and stabilize traction, it is recommended to use additional devices. For example, with the help of weather vanes and deflectors, the chimney can be protected from precipitation and various types of debris.

Forged chimney on the fireplace pipe

Thus, laying out the fireplace yourself is possible. Spend time studying the theoretical part, be patient and follow the recommendations received at each stage. The reward for your efforts will be a reliable, beautiful, efficient and durable fireplace, in front of which you can gather with family, friends or relax alone.

Good luck!

– How to lay out a fireplace with your own hands

Source: //svoimi-rykami.ru/stroitelstvo-doma/pechi_i_mangaly/kak-vylozhit-kamin-svoimi-rukami.html

A high-quality fireplace simultaneously functions as a heating unit and a decorative element. It is used as an addition to the main home heating system.

Large sizes and special shapes make it possible to make it an expressive accent in the interior, emphasizing the features of a certain style. Self-construction will allow you to take into account the smallest individual needs.

This article tells you how to make a fireplace with your own hands: step-by-step instructions, photos and professional advice will help eliminate mistakes.

You can make a beautiful and effective fireplace in a private home with your own hands with unique characteristics

Do-it-yourself fireplace: step-by-step instructions, photos of preparatory operations

To simplify the task, purchase ready-made metal products. But we must understand that such structures are subject to heavy loads during operation. When the temperature changes over a wide range, thermal deformations occur.

They are capable of breaking high-quality welded joints and causing the formation of other defects. A standard product will have to be selected according to size and appearance for a specific room.

But even with unlimited funding, it will be difficult to get the perfect result.

The metal firebox will have to be installed on the foundation and covered with decorative panels. This option also involves a large amount of construction work.

The use of bricks will help to successfully implement the project. Carrying out work operations independently will ensure precise control at all stages, which will allow you to obtain excellent quality. You just need to carefully study and put into practice the following instructions.

Selection of building materials

Surfaces in contact with fire must be flame resistant. They are created using fireclay bricks. The production of such products is characterized by a complex technological process for processing raw materials. Bricks made from fire-resistant baked clay with the addition of quartz are also used.

Fireclay bricks of different colors

Note! You should know that quartz brick is not resistant to chemical compounds based on lime, alkaline components, and iron oxides. It is used only to form a firebox.

The main part of the structure is created using solid red clay bricks. Its strength must be high, so it is recommended to purchase the M200 brand, or a higher category.

It is advisable to select such material from one product batch to ensure uniformity of technical and aesthetic characteristics.

Hollow bricks are used for cladding.

You can use it to make the top part of the pipe.

For a binder mortar, a regular cement-sand mixture will not work. It will not withstand high temperatures. The basis will be clay of medium fat content. You can purchase ready-made raw materials, with official accompanying documentation confirming the required parameters. If in doubt, use the following methods to thoroughly check.

• Make a ball (5-8 mm) from a mixture of clay and sand. Place it on a flat surface and slowly squeeze it with the board on top. Watch for cracks:
• ½ diameter – the solution is too greasy;
• 1/3 of the diameter is normal.

The process of determining the fat content of clay

The next method is more complicated, but it will help you get a more accurate result. Balls are made from clay and sand. Half of them are flattened to ½ of the original diameter.

These blanks are laid out on a dry surface in a room with normal temperature (from +18°C to +25°C), without drafts. After 7-11 days a check is performed. Flatbreads without cracks will be suitable.

The balls should not break after free falling onto a hard floor from a height of 1 m.

Helpful information! To carry out these experiments, a mixture of clay and water is created. Also prepare compositions of clay (1 part) with sand (0.1; 0.25; 0.75 and 1 part). As a result, the best option will be determined empirically.

During the laying process, the condition of the mortar is promptly checked. It should not break when the mixture is moved to the side with a trowel. If such defects occur, add water. The appearance of sagging after this manipulation indicates an excessively liquid consistency.

Buy high-quality river sand. It can be sifted additionally to remove dirt and impurities. The clay diluted with water is pressed through a strong sieve to remove hard lumps. For masonry 50 pcs. bricks (flat) with seams from 4 to 6 mm, you will need a bucket of mortar. If mixing with a shovel causes difficulties, use the “foot” method.

It is not necessary to perform this work step barefoot. Clean rubber shoes will come in handy

What you need for finishing

The simplest option is to create an external frame from standard metal parts and then cover it with plasterboard. On the created flat surface, you can then use paint, plaster, and other materials. In any case, all components are selected taking into account the proximity of the heat source.

Various decorative elements are attached to a plasterboard base.

The following is fixed directly to the brick using heat-resistant adhesive solutions:

• porcelain stoneware;
• standard ceramic tiles;
• mosaic;
• slabs made of natural stone.

Tiles are well suited for such projects. On the reverse side of such products, recesses (“rumps”) are created in a factory manner. They are equipped with special fasteners during the installation process. The finished structure is extremely resistant to temperature changes.

Combined finishing "brick-tiles"

Project documentation

Even experienced craftsmen create preliminary plans for future masonry, taking into account the characteristics of a particular room and the individual requirements of the customer.

Standard plans (“orders”) can be easily found on the Internet using the appropriate request. Corrections to professional designs must be made carefully.

"Order" of the fireplace

This design of a brick fireplace with an open firebox should be studied in more detail. There is a metal embedded element that supports the brickwork.

Different coefficients of thermal expansion of materials should be taken into account. It is better to exclude such decisions. Even fireclay bricks must be separated from the main part of the fireplace with a gap of 2-3 mm.

Simple “ordering” without metal inserts

Several chimney options

Note! Chimney documentation is added to the set of drawings. It is necessary to consider the passage of pipes through interfloor ceilings, the roof, the creation of layers of insulation and waterproofing. The issues raised here are not included in the materials of this article. They need to be studied separately.

How to make a fireplace with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

To perform the work, use the following algorithm:

• If there is no reliable foundation made of reinforced concrete slab, a solid foundation will be needed. They dig a hole up to 70-80 cm deep. Its width should be greater than the contour of the fireplace by 15-20 centimeters in all directions.
• Make the height of the formwork walls 50-70 mm below the level of the top layer of the floor covering. It is filled with a solution of sand and cement (proportion 3 to 1, respectively). The foundation covered with polymer foam will dry in 10-12 days.
• It is covered with a double layer of roofing felt. Next, they begin laying. In the first layer, the bricks are installed vertically. The following parts are created in accordance with the chosen “order”.

To create vaults of complex shapes, similar templates are used. In addition to controlling dimensional accuracy, they are capable of performing the functions of temporary supports

The following information will be useful for laying a fireplace with tiles yourself; step-by-step instructions for other technologies are not difficult to find. Installation operations are performed according to the diagram:

• A metal rod is installed into the holes on the back wall of the tile.
• A steel wire is screwed to this element so that the free ends protrude outward.
• They are inserted into the masonry mortar when the brick layers are installed.

Below are examples of different finishes. Each of them is performed using appropriate technology.

Sets of tiles offer friezes, plinths, paintings, and other decorative elements

The production of parts from natural stone can be ordered in a specialized workshop

It is not easy to create a high-quality forged fireplace grate with your own hands. It’s easier and cheaper to buy a finished product

When using wood, parts made of flammable materials are mounted at a sufficient distance from the flame

Since our distant ancestors tamed the “Fire Flower” (or received it for free from Prometheus), the flames of burning logs have warmed the body and soul of a person. Despite the fact that people have come up with central heating, ultra-economical solid fuel boilers and highly efficient wood-burning stoves, the traditional open fireplace, which traces its ancestry to the ancient hearth of the Old Testament hut, although it has lost its position, has not disappeared from our home. With the increase in the scale of private suburban construction and the improvement in the quality of rural housing, an increasing number of our readers are interested in building a fireplace in a country house.

Types of fireplaces depending on the location of the firebox

Recessed fireplace

Known since ancient times, but probably its history is even older. The fire is fenced with refractory material on three sides, which reduces the likelihood of a fire, facilitates cleaning, and allows you to load a relatively large amount of firewood, placing it closer to the rear wall. In ancient Western European homes, such structures often not only heated the premises, but also served as a fireplace for cooking.

Traditional recessed fireplace in a log Finnish hut, made of stone, the firebox is lined with steel sheets on the inside

A semi-open fireplace, as the name suggests, is completely enclosed on one side, the back side, or less often on both sides. There are no side walls at the firebox of such a fireplace or they are small. Laying a cantilevered upper part out of brick is problematic, so half-open fireplaces are rarely made entirely of stone. If only the lower part is made of brick, and the cap is made of relatively light steel, the fireplace will not be connected to the load-bearing wall of the house. If there is a chimney, it can be mounted at any time after the construction of the main walls.

The flame blazing in a half-open fireplace can be viewed from three sides, but it is more difficult to keep it clean

Open fireplace

Can be extremely effective in the middle of a spacious living room. Guests sitting around a live flame with a glass of mulled wine on New Year's Eve will be incredibly enchanted by its beauty. However, after the fire goes out, it is recommended to immediately clean the open fireplace thoroughly, otherwise the slightest breath of wind will spread ashes and ash throughout the room. The draft of an open fireplace is less stable than that of a recessed one.

The fireproof hood and chimney of an open fireplace have considerable weight; this must be taken into account when constructing ceiling structures

Home design

Designing and building a fireplace in a house should begin with studying its structure. Let's take a closer look at the classic design with a recessed firebox; this type is the most rational and popular.

Fireplace insert

A fireplace is the simplest stove with an open firebox. Almost all the heat enters the room due to radiant energy, in contrast to a closed furnace, where the heat is transferred to a greater extent to the massive masonry, which also serves as a heat accumulator. So that the maximum amount of heat directly from the fire and reflected from the walls of the firebox is radiated into the room, it is made shallow, but wide. Proportions 1:2.5, 1:3 are considered optimal in this regard, but this is not a dogma. For the same purpose, the side walls are placed at an angle to the rear wall. The recommended angle is about 120º. The walls of the firebox should be as smooth as possible. You can increase the output of radiant energy into the room by lining the firebox with a mirror-reflective refractory material; sheets of polished bronze or high-alloy steel are suitable for these purposes.

In plan, the firebox is an open trapezoid, the side edges of which are unfolded, reflecting heat into the room. If you build a rectangular firebox, heat transfer will decrease

Pre-furnace area - floor covering made of fireproof material (brick, ceramics, stone, metal), with a depth of 50 cm and a width of no less than the portal.

The firebox will protect the floor from fire if a burning coal falls out of the fireplace

However, a spark can fly out to a distance greater than 50 cm, especially when using resinous firewood. The only absolutely reliable method of protection against the escape of hot particles is to equip the firebox with a mesh screen or glass doors.

Under and blowing

Bottom of the firebox under, is made of fireproof material, the fireplace is more convenient to light and maintain when it is raised above the floor level by 10-40 cm. It is safer, and often more beautiful, when under a little, half a brick, the brick protrudes forward relative to the walls of the firebox.

The firebox is laid out from the same material as the firebox and placed on a common foundation.

Firewood will burn more intensely if it is blown from all sides. Therefore, it is recommended to place them on a wire rack.

The grate should not be too low so that ash can accumulate under it.

Another option is to build a fireplace with a ash pan located in the hearth: this is an air duct with a grate at the top and a pull-out ash drawer, which makes cleaning the fireplace much easier. The blower grate should be located closer to the rear wall of the firebox.

The air intake of the blower can be closed with a grille door

Gas threshold

An important element of the fireplace is the gas threshold, also called a tooth, a jib, a ledge, a visor, a pass, etc., each stove maker calls it differently. This protrusion performs several tasks simultaneously:

• counteracts the occurrence of air flow differences, minimizes the penetration of smoke and soot into the room, stabilizes draft;
• prevents the emission of sparks from the chimney;
• prevents precipitation from entering the firebox;
• serves as a place for soot deposition, accessible for cleaning and not polluting the room.

By the way, there is no gas threshold in an open fireplace, so soot and ash fall down freely. The horizontal shelf (mirror) of the threshold can be flat or tray-shaped for better retention of water and dirt. If the fireplace is not installed near the outer wall of the house, cleaning the mirror of the pass can be organized by installing a cleaning door on the back side and placing a shallow box (baking tray) on the shelf to collect soot.

The lower part of the tooth should be inclined towards the room. The cross-section of the chimney below the gas threshold (this part is called higho) in its zone and above (smoke collector) should not be less than the area of ​​the chimney pipe.

The protrusion can be located not only at the back wall, but also in front, and even along the perimeter. The main thing is that the projection of the chimney is overlapped by the threshold from below

When starting to build fireplaces with your own hands, you should pay special attention to the construction of the gas threshold; this is a rather complex detail to perform, on which the effectiveness of the fireplace largely depends.

In a fireplace located in the center of the house, you can organize cleaning of the gas threshold mirror through a separate channel with a door on the side opposite the firebox. Please note: the top of the tooth is at the same level (maybe a little lower) of the fracture of the front wall of the firebox

Chimney and damper

The draft of the fireplace is weaker than that of the stove, so chimney make it straight, without smoke circulation. Since the firebox is open, a large amount of air passes through the pipe. If the air flow is not obstructed, the fireplace is a powerful natural hood. To prevent a non-working fireplace from “blowing” heat out of the room during the cold season, a valve is installed in the chimney. It can be simple or rotary (ram). How to correctly determine the cross-section of a chimney? This is not difficult: we divide the area of ​​the horizontal projection of the firebox by 10 if the cross-section of the chimney is round (an asbestos-cement, ceramic, steel pipe is inserted inside) and by 7 if the channel is rectangular. When building a fireplace, do not forget to carefully smooth the inner walls of the brick chimney. The pipe can be laid out half a brick thick, at the intersection with wooden structures - with thickening up to a whole brick.

DIY fireplace construction

There are many designs of fireplaces; detailed drawings can be found in abundance in specialized literature and on the Internet. We will only briefly tell you how to build a fireplace with your own hands correctly in terms of installation technology.

You can find a lot of drawings with masonry orders to suit every taste.

• The main masonry materials for making a fireplace are ceramic bricks and natural stone. Only solid, high-quality fired bricks are used. The inside of the firebox, in contact with the fire, can be lined with fireproof fireclay-quartz bricks.
• The masonry mortar must withstand high temperatures, therefore cement, the characteristics of which deteriorate due to thermal influences, is used only for the manufacture of mortar for laying the foundation and the chimney cap above the roof level. The chimney in the house can be laid out on a lime-sand mortar (proportions 1:2-1:3), but it is recommended to build the combustion part (under, firebox, tooth, smoke collector) on a clay-sand mortar. When we build a fireplace with our own hands, it is important to choose and prepare the clay correctly. Red and white clays are used, plastic, with a minimum sand content (oily). The proportion of clay and sand is 1:1-1:2 depending on the fat content of the clay. You can determine the suitability of the solution by molding it into a ball Ø 5 cm and a cake Ø 10 cm and a centimeter thick. Dry them completely. If they do not crack, and the ball does not break when dropped from a height of one meter, the solution is good.

The clay solution must be fat enough so as not to crack

• The techniques for laying a fireplace are standard, but special attention should be paid to completely filling the joints with mortar. It is also necessary to take into account that clay mortar gives noticeable shrinkage and requires some time to gain strength, so you should not try to lay out the structure in one day. Ten rows per shift is quite enough. Don't forget to wet the brick properly before working.

Which fireplace is more efficient and economical?

An open hearth is the most inefficient type of solid fuel generator. Unfortunately, it is impossible to combine the pleasure of seeing a live fire and saving fuel. The efficiency of an open fireplace is 10-20%; the lion's share of the thermal energy obtained from burning wood literally flies down the chimney. A closed fireplace, equipped with a glass door, an air supply control system (supply grille and exhaust damper), is incomparably more efficient, the efficiency can be increased to 70-80%, which is close to the performance of modern solid fuel heating boilers and exceeds the characteristics of traditional Russian and Dutch type stoves .

Heat-resistant, air-controlled glass doors are available that can transform an open brick fireplace into a highly efficient indoor fireplace. If the fireplace in your home serves not so much as a decoration but as a source of heating, choose a closed design

Closed cast iron and steel fireboxes can be equipped with an additional water circuit, allowing them to be connected to a water heating system or an air duct connection system, thanks to which the fireplace serves as the basis for air heating. The water jacket can also be built into brickwork.

Video: DIY fireplace

Many of us dream of sitting in the cold winter near a warm fireplace, reading alone or talking with loved ones in a cozy atmosphere. But not everyone knows how to make a fireplace on their own. In fact, if you wish, you can do anything, including building a simple fireplace.

Planning and calculation

Before you start building a fireplace in a private house or cottage, you need to design it correctly, as well as calculate all the costs associated with its construction, i.e. make an estimate.

The cost of the work depends on the type of fireplace, its finishing with various materials and many other components. It is necessary to take into account not only its location, ceiling height, number of floors of the building, but also the features of the foundation, the material of the floor and facade walls, as well as the need for insulation,

Some experts suggest that you will need at least 50 thousand rubles if you are building a brick fireplace, lined with natural stone, in a two-story small house (pipe diameter from 200 to 260 cm). Let's look at the main stages of building such a fireplace.

Fireplace design

The main components of a fireplace are the firebox and chimney, but other elements are no less important for its effective functioning:

• smoke collector
• heating device
• ash pan
• grate
• valve (at the bottom of the firebox under the grate where the ash gets in)
• lining (internal thermal insulation layer of the fireplace lining)
• fire cutter
• forced convection system
• safety doors

Types of fireplaces and their main parameters

The location of the fireplace determines its appearance.

• Wall fireplace

The most common. It usually comes in large sizes and is located near the wall. It is erected even in a house built a long time ago. The wall to which the chimney is attached must be fire resistant.

• Built-in fireplace

The smallest one. Built into some wall niche. It should be erected during the construction phase of the house.

• Corner fireplace

The most beautiful and effective. Located in the corner of the room. Its chimney is attached to one adjacent wall.

• Freestanding fireplace

Ostrovny. It looks like a flat platform that rises above the floor surface.

How to choose a place for a fireplace

You should not place the fireplace in a draft, in the hallway or near the stairs, or in rooms smaller than 20 m2. It is necessary to analyze the bearing capacity of the foundation and ceiling, and provide free space in front of the fireplace.

In a wooden house, measures should be taken to ensure safety: the floor should be made of fire-resistant material, the distance from the firebox to flammable elements and materials should be at least 800 mm.

Materials for building a fireplace

To build a brick fireplace you will need the following materials:

• Red (stove) brick for the fireplace

It is advisable to purchase stove bricks specifically designed for such purposes. At the same time, it must be of very good quality (no flaws, uniform structure, bright color, correct shape). Tap each brick with a hammer; it should produce a special clear sound. Poor quality brick makes a dull sound. A bluish-black or dark gray color indicates that the brick has been burned. White spots indicate that the drying technology was not followed. An average fireplace requires 250 - 300 bricks (without chimney). Refractory fireclay bricks (or increased fire resistance) are used for lining fireboxes.

• Clay, sand and cement

It is better to use red clay (0.5 cubic meters depending on the fat content), but ordinary clay is also possible. If refractory bricks are used, refractory clay will be required. The need for the cleanest sand possible (preferably it has a fraction of no more than 1.5 mm) is about 0.6-0.8 m3. The need for ordinary cement (grade 200 or 300) is 100 kg (together with foundation work).

• Additional materials

To build a foundation for a fireplace, you will need crushed stone (fraction up to 6 cm) - 0.2 m3. You will need a smoke damper, reinforcement blanks (about 20 pieces, diameter 10 mm, length 700 mm), a grate with grates, a chimney and other materials for construction work.

Brick fireplace laying - general rules

• Preparatory stage

Before laying, the bricks are laid out in accordance with the diagram in the drawing. First lay out the next row dry. The bricks are adjusted one to another.

• Fireplace wall masonry

The laying is carried out starting with the corner bricks, strictly controlling each row by level. Then they lay out a row around the perimeter (outer), and at the end they lay the middle. Thin seams are completely filled with mortar, narrowings and turns of the gas chimney are rounded off. Seam bandaging is performed on half a brick in each row. Check each layer with the drawing, mark the rows with chalk or pencil. The outer walls and lining masonry are not bandaged.

• Laying curved surfaces

The surfaces of the vaults and smoke collector, which have curved surfaces, are laid out with a brick overlap (preferably no more than 6 cm). Then, the opening of the fireplace portal is covered with brick lintels (wedge-shaped, arched, vaulted), which are arranged using cliche formwork. Construction begins with laying the heels, and then following the outline of the desired fireplace arch. The castle brick is installed on the circle after creating the supporting heels. After this, the laying must be carried out simultaneously on both sides.

• Features of fireplace masonry

During masonry work, it is important to wipe all the internal walls of the channels, smoke collector, and firebox with a wet rag, removing excess solution. It is not recommended to plaster the inside of the fireplace, and the brick should only be laid with the smoothest edge inside the channel or firebox.

Who doesn't dream of their own fireplace? After all, with its help you can make almost any room stylish and comfortable. And despite the complexity of the design, as well as the high price of materials, it can be assembled with your own efforts. It is in this article that you will find many answers to questions about how to make a fireplace, as well as step-by-step instructions for its construction.

Materials estimation and overall cost calculation

As I already said right away, a fireplace is quite an expensive pleasure, despite the fact that you will assemble it with your own hands. This factor is influenced not only by the materials, but also by its location and the type of house.

1. Ceiling footage and number of floors of the house. This point plays a very important role, whether you have an apartment or a house. The higher the ceiling, the more money you will spend. And if you are the owner of a two-story house, then get ready for additional expenses on wiring a long chimney.
2. Type of fireplace and its finish. At this point it all depends on the room and desires. Small corner fireplaces are suitable for small rooms, while large ones open up wide possibilities for design. It can also be either built into the wall or outdoor fireplaces with a wide variety of finishes.

1. Features of the foundation. The foundation for a fireplace directly depends on the type of fireplace chosen.
2. Flooring. Naturally, we will need something that is heat-resistant and of the highest quality.

1. Insulation and materials for facade walls. One of the key points, since heat transfer, as well as smoke entering the room, depends on insulation.
2. Weather conditions and climate. The fireplace serves not only for decorative purposes, but also for heating, so climate zones must also be taken into account.

These six points will play a key role in pricing your fireplace.

You can save money on some of them, but I recommend that you choose the highest quality materials, since making a fireplace with your own hands is a very difficult task, especially if you do not have any experience in this field.

Beginners who have not encountered such work may make a number of such mistakes:

1. Incorrect location for the fireplace.
2. Omission of important elements such as ash pan and internal insulation.
3. Uneven masonry without the use of refractory bricks.
4. Poor foundation, as well as crooked layers.

All of this will become fatal mistakes that will simply lead to the impossibility of using the fireplace, and you will be forced to dismantle it. But high-quality materials will help you avoid certain mistakes and risks.

Components of a fireplace

Before you start assembling the fireplace, I will show you what main parts it consists of.

Of course, many people know that its main components are the firebox and chimney, but there are also many other elements:

1. Ash pit.
2. Collection of smoke.
3. Convection system.
4. Heating device.
5. Gate valve for ash collection.
6. Grate.
7. Lining (Internal protective facing layer).
8. Flame cutter.
9. Doors for protection.

Each of these elements ensures comfortable and safe operation of the fireplace, while the main process falls on the firebox and ensures stable air circulation inside the fireplace system. Don’t forget about the “portal” - it is this part of the fireplace that falls under the decor.

Choosing the best location for the fireplace

Basically, they prefer to install fireplaces near main walls. It is very important to take into account the fact that they cannot be overcooled, so try not to display the structures in drafts, in the corridor, near stairs and in very small rooms. And before designing the fireplace, compare the placement of the pipes with the beams and with the roof rafters.

I remind you once again that the floor covering must be fireproof! Therefore, before building a fireplace, try to consult with specialists who will help you take into account all safety requirements. Also, furniture should not be placed close to the fireplace - the minimum distance from the fireplace to any interior items should be 800 mm.

In general, all fireplaces, according to their location, can be divided into the following categories:

1. Angular. The chimney of this fireplace is diverted into one of the adjacent walls. Before assembling such a fireplace, it is necessary to obtain all the information about the condition of the foundation and adjacent walls.
2. Wall-mounted. The most popular type of fireplace because it is very easy to assemble and is the most versatile.
3. Built-in. It is best to design at the stage of building a house, since the main part of the fireplace is hidden inside the wall.
4. Separate. These fireplaces act as a separate area that protrudes above the floor level.

When calculating any of these fireplaces, you need to consider the total area of ​​the room. Approximately, the area of ​​the fireplace portal should be about 2% of the area of ​​the room. But it is worth considering the fact that even a large fireplace will not be able to cope with open drafts, and a small one will not be able to cope with a large room. Therefore, answering the question “how to make fireplaces with your own hands,” first of all you need to talk about the materials used and, after them, about the step-by-step construction method.

Materials for building a fireplace

You've probably already guessed that the most popular material for building a fireplace is brick. This popularity is due to the simpler method of laying a brick fireplace, as well as the low cost of the brick itself.

To build an average fireplace, you will need the following materials:

1. Clay.
2. Cement.
3. Red brick.
4. Sand.
5. Crushed stone.
6. Rubble stone.

This is not the entire list of components, but they are the most necessary. Also, the materials depend only on your financial capabilities and the type of fireplace. Please note that the brick must be of the best quality, including a uniform structure and straight shape. It is best if you check each brick for damage when purchasing.

It is advisable to avoid purchasing light-colored bricks, since bricks that have not undergone good heat treatment have a lighter shade and a non-uniform structure. Therefore, it is better to take only red ones. Their number is determined by the type and design of the chosen structure.

Step-by-step construction of a fireplace

Finally we begin the process of laying the fireplace. I will tell you and show you using a specific example of building a budget fireplace for a summer house. Such step-by-step instructions may be suitable for other types of fireplaces, but you need to take into account their features.

Stage 1 – Material preparation

To lay a small economy class fireplace, you need about 500 M-150 bricks. You also need to take 50 pieces of refractory bricks, which will serve as reliable protection for other components.

Next, we take about 5 bags of mixture for stove masonry and a glass-magnesium sheet 12 mm thick. Now, as I said above, we buy the main components: a stove band for fittings, a fireplace door, a sandwich chimney (I was guided by a height of about 3 meters), a chimney view and 8 iron corners measuring 50 mm. All this will cost about 100-200 dollars.

Stage 2 - Preparatory work

We are preparing the upcoming work site. Cover everything around with protective film. Also try to lay it on the floor where all the work will take place.

Stage 3 – Preparing the base

At this stage we organize the foundation for the fireplace. Since I designed it in an old house, I was unable to dig a deep foundation. Instead, I reinforced it with iron corners.

Having placed the corners, we begin to place bricks between them. Be sure to leave gaps between the bricks - the cement mixture will get into them.

As soon as the bricks are laid, we begin to fill them with mortar, spreading it evenly with a trowel over the entire foundation.

The corners should be laid out in such a direction that the bricks form a strong base. To prevent them from moving, the corners can be welded together.

Try not to make a liquid solution, since in the future excess water will negatively affect the foundation. Therefore, the ideal quintessence of cement is a sour cream mixture. The unfolded base will act as the frame of the fireplace, so its unevenness can be smoothed out using mortar. After all these operations with the foundation, we leave it to dry for 2 days.

Stage 4 – First rows

Laying a fireplace includes several stages, and the first of them is called the “hearth”. It is the beginning of the future fireplace, so it should be treated with the utmost care. It must be measured in a precise manner so that the base forms a rectangle with even diagonals.

We will place further rows on this basis. In this case, the fireplace will not have long air ducts. It will include such elements as: an exhaust pipe, a chimney casing, a ash pan and a combustion chamber.

According to the design, this fireplace is hollow, so an air pocket is formed between the outer wall and the combustion chamber. That is why my choice fell on 150-M brand brick, since it will not be in direct contact.

Having laid the starting row of the base, we proceed to the second row, on which the ash pan will be placed. To do this, we begin to place ordinary bricks at the edges, and closer to the middle we place refractory bricks, also known as fireclay bricks, on which we place the grate. Thus we got a blower and an ash pan.

The solution must be poured into each row only after you have verified their accuracy by measuring with a level.

When the next row of brickwork is laid, it is necessary to leave a hole in it for the future door. In the photo you can see an example of how the next row of bricks is not laid out to the end - leaving a gap the size of 2 bricks under the door.

Stage – 5 Preparing the firebox and installing the door

Using twists, we attach 4 pieces of oven tape to the door itself. We lay the lower oven strips in the rows themselves, securing them to the seams with self-tapping screws. It is best to line the sides of the door with basal cardboard to form a sealed contact between the metal and the brick.

Inside the fireplace we make a V-shape of refractory bricks, only we “blunt” its sharp end. There must be a distance between the outer walls of the fireplace and the fireproof inner liner for air circulation.

Once you have everything exactly laid out, start pouring mortar into the cracks between the bricks. Make sure that the bricks match each other proportionately and finally meet the door.

Now we proceed to the glass-magnesium sheet, marking it with the air pockets of the fireplace, with an overlap of 2 cm on each side. We install it on the masonry, and as a result we get a flat surface for the stove mortar.

This sheet can withstand temperatures of 1000°C and in the photo you can see an example of it.

We fill the pockets themselves with broken bricks. We lightly tighten the upper edge with the solution, and then lay down the glass-magnesium sheet and apply the solution. And behind the front part of the door we put a corner in which we will hide the upper oven strips located on the door.

At this stage, everything falls under your imagination, since in addition to the idea of ​​​​hiding the chimney itself, you get the opportunity to create an interesting decor. There is nothing complicated about this, just follow the standard pattern with which the brick was laid when assembling the entire fireplace . The main thing is to connect the pipes protruding from the fireplace to the pipes passing through the chimney.

All we need is a hole in the floor and roof, along which we will lay out a chimney of bricks layer by layer, gradually applying cement mortar. Make sure that it is completely sealed on all sides.

The final stage of the brickwork is the assembly of the back wall, or rather its further construction after installing the fireplace.

1. Rubble stone.
2. Also now it is necessary to deal with external insulation, as well as decorative elements. After all, you want your own brick fireplace to bring not only warmth, but also comfort and aesthetics?
3. Decorative brick.
4. Ceramic tile.

Porcelain tiles.

Each of them has its own structure, so they have different specifics of fastening. In this regard, before working with them, consult with the seller about the method of fastening. All I can say is that they use special adhesive mixtures that can withstand high temperatures, and the resulting seams are simply filled with a standard putty solution.

Summing up