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Stoves have long been used by residents of rural regions for heating and cooking. Then the tradition of building in a house migrated to the city. Nowadays, such designs are mainly used in dachas or private homes. The classic Russian stove is being replaced by another stove - the Swedish stove, which is superior to Russian and Dutch stoves in numerous respects. For example, a stove that came from Sweden is distinguished by its compact dimensions, economical use of fuel, greater heat output, etc.

The Swedish stove is used not only for heating the room, but can also act as a mini-kitchen. To do this, you need to install a hob on a folded platform or equip an oven. This multifunctional design allows you to both cook and heat the entire house.

The designers of the Swedish brick kiln took into account the peculiarities of the Scandinavian climate, which is characterized by dampness. In fairly cold conditions, it was necessary to quickly warm the house, dry clothes, and prepare food. Therefore, the design has a special partition that allows the stove to be used in two rooms at once. This is the main difference between a Swedish oven and a Dutch oven.

In addition to the above-mentioned advantages, the design has a number of positive qualities, among which it is worth noting such as:

• The firebox, made in the form of a bell, ensures proper combustion of fuel, long-term maintenance of heat and smoldering of firewood.
• You can install an additional hob on a Swedish stove with a stove.
• The stove is installed between the kitchen and living room, which allows you to warm the room while cooking.
• You can install a water circuit on the stove, which will allow you to use it for heating a house or bathhouse.
• High efficiency of fuel combustion. It is allowed to use firewood, reeds, and small wood. These types of fuel have increased heat transfer, so your home will always be warm and dry.
• The Swede warms up within 10-15 minutes after the fuel is ignited. In order to retain heat for as long as possible, it is necessary to close the valve tightly.

A Swedish stove for a country house is the most suitable option for heating and cooking food and heating water. While there are a large number of advantages, it is necessary to note the presence of certain disadvantages:

• First, you need to carefully select the material. It must be of high quality. Fireclay brick is not suitable, which affects the duration of heat retention.
• Secondly, construction must be approached carefully, involving specialists who will be able to correct mistakes at the bricklaying stage.
• Thirdly, you should not skimp on specialists who will help you start the heating system. Otherwise, the oven will not function as it should.
• Fourthly, it gets damp quickly, so the stove must be constantly in use. If this does not happen, then the structure must be thoroughly dried before heating.

Characteristics

Unlike the Dutch, the Swede has compact dimensions:

• Height varies from 2030 to 2170 mm.
• The width can be between 880-885 mm.
• Height - from 1010 to 1020 mm.

This small Swedish stove is very easy to assemble with your own hands and is capable of heating a room of up to 30-35 m2.

There are several types of Swedish stoves, which differ in the nature of their assembly and functional purpose. Furnaces are divided into the following groups:

• A Swedish fireplace with a hob that faces the street. Inside the room there is a firebox and a fireplace portal. This type is usually installed in the living room.
• Swedish stoves with deck chairs. Suitable for cold regions and small rooms where there is not enough space. The lounger can act as a bed.
• Stoves with hob and oven. Such structures are installed between the kitchen and the room.

Before you build a brick stove with your own hands, you need to find out the dimensions of the house and draw up a drawing indicating the location of the stove on it. This will save time on redesigning the design.

For country houses, it is best to choose a Swede that will not be equipped with a heating system.

In winter, people rarely come to their dacha, so there is no need to install an expensive structure. But for a country house, it is better to install a stove model that will allow you to both cook and heat the entire house.

Design and operating principle

The Swedish heating and cooking stove was made on the basis of the Dutch one, which did not have an oven, hob, place for drying clothes and heating water.

The principle of operation of the Swede, without reference to models, is one - channel. The firebox oven is located on the side, allowing heat to be transferred directly into the room. When the wood begins to give off heat, then it gradually begins to heat the oven and the side, and only then goes down.

The upper part of the Swedish stove heats up very quickly, due to the fact that the heat transfer channels are located at the back of the panel.

The efficiency of the Swedish model significantly exceeds the productivity of the Dutch one. For example, if a Dutch woman gives off about 2.5 thousand kilocalories of heat per hour, then a Swede gives off 3.5 thousand kcal. To do this, it is enough to put several portions of firewood into the firebox during the day, and the heat in the house will remain for 24 hours.

High-level economics and efficiency in a Swedish-assembled stove are ensured thanks to a rather complex smoke exhaust system. As a result, it is simply rational to use heat in winter and summer, setting a different type of construction for each season.

If the stove is provided with a deck, then the heat transfer channels must be installed in a horizontal position. A special valve is installed next to the channels, which helps regulate the heat supply in summer and winter. The valve can be rotated in a horizontal or vertical position, depending on the season. In horizontal mode, the heat will go directly to the sunbed, and in summer - into the chimney.

The design of the swedes may differ, depending on the model, but the following elements are required in the stove:

• An oven that is intended for heating. The oven is made in the form of a hood, thanks to which the flame from the fuel does not touch its walls, but is immediately transferred to the heating elements. The so-called flue gases go down, so the stove is heated from the floor.
• The upper niche, which is heated by the heat of the first or second level. This space is usually used to dry clothes.
• A niche above the stove, which is made above the hob. You can put cooked food here to keep it hot in the morning.
• Smoke circulation, made in the form of a special flow window. This should be done from the bottom of the oven.

Fuel types

The structure is built in a house for more than one year, so only high-quality bricks must be used for laying the stove, and heating must be carried out only with approved materials. The efficiency and amount of heat generated depends on this. Different types of fuel provide different amounts of heat, and this must be taken into account when choosing how to heat a room. The most common types of fuel for Swedes include:

• Wood of different species. It is worth considering that birch, oak, beech, and maple can provide much more heat than pine, aspen or alder. Firewood must be dried so that it produces a lot of ash and not smoke.
• Peat, which can be pressed, lump, carved, milled. It is best to use pressed peat, the briquettes of which are highly dense. As a result, a few pieces are enough to maintain heat for a long time. In terms of heat transfer, peat is close to wood. The amount of thermal mass released depends directly on how correctly the peat was dried and pressed.
• Coal, for which a special grate must be placed on the Swedish stove. Its elements must be heated by coal, which gradually burns.

Do-it-yourself Swedish oven

Before assembling the “Swede”, it is necessary to draw up an exact diagram of the order of the stove, indicate the places where the oven, hob, chimney, and air ducts will be located. The easiest way is to assemble a cooking-heating stove yourself, which will have all the necessary components. The hob and oven are made of glass, and the oven door is made of glass.

Materials

To assemble a Swede with your own hands, you need to stock up on the following materials:

• Fireclay brick, which is made from refractory clay. You cannot use ordinary brick; it is not able to withstand high temperatures.
• Clay used to hold bricks together during laying.
• Metal flaps, latches, doors that help in the full operation of the Swede.
• Finishing materials - plaster, lime, clay.

Tools

To lay the Swedish in order, you will also need special tools, which include a trowel, a bayonet shovel, a plumb line, a hammer, a level, and a container for preparing the solution.

Tools required for masonry

Foundation

How to fold the stove when all the preparations are done? First of all, you need to make markings for the foundation, on which the stove will then be placed. The marking should be 10-15 centimeters larger than the base of the stove. Then you need to dig a hole, at the bottom of which lay a mixture made from sand and water. The width of the layer should not be more than 20 centimeters. Crushed stone is poured on top of the sand, which must be compacted well, and formwork made of wooden boards must be placed.

They are covered with plastic film, on top of which a concrete solution must be poured. The thickness of this layer should not be less than 15 cm. Reinforcement must be placed in the cement that has not yet hardened, pressed into the mortar and filled with cement again.

The next step will be to install a mesh of reinforcement, but only when the first ball of mortar becomes solid. The second layer must be leveled and wait for it to harden. In total, these two phases will take three to four weeks. When they pass, the Swede's serial laying begins.

We put the stove, stove, oven

While the foundation is drying, you need to take care of the fuel part - stoves, fireboxes, ovens. The thickness of the slab should not be less than 710 by 410 mm. The dimensions of the firebox can be as follows:

• Height varies between 281 by 330 mm;
• The width is 305 by 356 mm;
• The depth is 406 by 506 mm.

The oven will have almost the same dimensions as the firebox. The oven depth will be 281 by 305 mm, width - 330 by 381 mm, depth - 456 by 506 mm, the thickness of each oven wall will be, on average, from 4 to 6 mm. The walls should not be thin so as not to burn quickly, but they should not be made thick either, otherwise the oven will take a long time to heat up.

For the firebox, you need to take a cast door that has a “whisker” and is embedded in the masonry. The “whiskers” are installed independently if you weld annealed steel wire at the corners of the door frame. You will need two pieces that will be parallel to each other. Then the “whiskers” must be spread apart, giving the wire a V shape. These elements must also be embedded in the wall, additionally secured with a steel corner.

Fire door with welded “whiskers”

Order

The new stage of construction of the Swedish stove will be quite long in order to correctly arrange the bricks.

The sequential installation of the stove looks like this:

• The base is laid out in the form of a square, each side of which is 1.1 m. The top should be exactly one brick below the floor level.
• Then the first continuous row of bricks is created.
• The second row will also be solid, but in place of the fireplace you need to install a grate.
• The third row is laid out with bricks, creating a vertical channel and a space allocated for the oven. After this, you need to mount the doors and build a firebox for the fireplace.
• The fourth row - bricks are simply laid out.
• Fifth row - at the same time as the laying, a grate must be installed.
• The sixth row is to create an overlap between the oven and the vertical channel.
• Seventh row - you need to install two strips of metal.
• The eighth and ninth rows are ordinary brickwork.
• Tenth row - you need to make a niche intended for cleaning the fireplace; a hob is installed.
• Eleventh row - a niche is made for the hob, the holes are blocked.
• Rows 13-15 - a mantelpiece is created, so the bricks need to be pushed forward a little. In 13-14 rows you need to lay bricks that will be cut obliquely. They should be positioned towards the front plane of the fireplace.
• Row 16 - completing a niche for the hob.
• Rows 17-18 - laid out with bricks without additional mounting elements.
• Rows 19-20 - a chimney is formed.
• Rows 21-23 - doors are created for cleaning channels.
• Row 24 - you need to install a damper for the fireplace.
• Row 25 - the valve for the furnace is installed.
• Row 26 - the vertical channel must be connected to the chimney.
• Rows 27-28 - creating the longitudinal walls of the channel that will pass above the fireplace.
• Rows 29-30 - solid brickwork.
• Row 31 - a common valve is installed.
• Row 32 - formation of the Swedish oven pipe.

Furnace arrangement diagram

Important nuances

The foot of the oven - usually the first two rows - should be wide. This is achieved through seams with a width of 6 to 13 mm. This way you can get a pedestal that has the shape of a protrusion. You should not make the ledge wider so that the foot does not turn out awkward.

Before laying, each brick must be immersed in water and rinsed. This will ensure a strong masonry. The brick should be in the water for no more than 15 seconds so that the material does not take on water. If it penetrates into the masonry, then the structure will fall apart.

The master must pay special attention to the combustion chamber in order to burn fuel efficiently. It is made of fireclay bricks, which have a light yellow color. The mortar for masonry must be prepared using fireclay clay. It is not recommended to use fireclay and red bricks together, or stack them end to end. There should be a distance of 6 mm between different materials. For the combustion part, which starts from the third row, fireclay should be used. Considering the high cost of the material, you can line the inside of the firebox with such bricks.

Bricks with rounded corners are used in the chimney to reduce resistance to gas flow and turbulence. The chimney should be made with a fluff, raised 60 cm above the roof.

The need to install stove heating is most often associated with the lack of other alternatives - you cannot reach the gas main, and it is unprofitable to heat the house with electricity. On the other hand, the undying popularity of wood-burning stoves is associated with that amazing feeling of real home warmth and comfort that only a crackling fireplace can give. As you know, you can admire fire endlessly, so why not provide your home with inexpensive heat at the same time? But for this you will have to build a heating device that could provide a visual image, have good heat transfer and fit organically into the interior. Swedish ovens fully meet these requirements, which, among other things, also allow you to cook or heat food. Let’s not hide the fact that the Swede (that’s what this wonderful structure has long been called in Rus') presents certain difficulties in manufacturing. However, using our recommendations, drawings and ordering diagrams, even a novice master can build a practical and extremely warm Swedish stove with his own hands.

To the origins of the popularity of Swedish cooking stoves

The classic Swedish stove is both beautiful and functional

According to existing legend, the first Swedish stove was built in Russia by soldiers who were captured during one of the battles of the Northern War, which was started by the Swedish king Charles XII back in 1700. However, this is nothing more than a myth, since there is documentary evidence that the heating device, known in our country as the “Swedish”, was developed in a distant northern country in 1767. The order of the Academy of Sciences was issued by King Adolf Frederick of Holstein-Gottorp. Perhaps this is what contributed to the preservation of historical materials about the development of a new wood-burning stove. The reasons that prompted the King of Sweden to personally deal with such mundane issues were quite prosaic. The fact is that the dense forests that the Swedes were so proud of in the Middle Ages had already been thoroughly cut down by this time - the wood was actively used in military and housing construction, and the Swedes simply did not know any other fuel at that time. The homes of ordinary people were most often heated by hastily built brick fireplaces that required constant heating. By the way, the stoves of the nobility were also not particularly economical - at best, they used voluminous “Dutch stoves”, which at that time were very gluttonous.

Using the proverb that has survived to this day that “everything new is a well-forgotten old,” Swedish scientists did not hesitate for a long time with the design. The basis was a well-studied Dutch oven, which was carefully remodeled during the work.

The changes primarily affected functionality - the “Swedish” was equipped with a pita for cooking, an oven and practical niches, one of which was intended for drying clothes, and the other was used to ensure that cooked food remained warm all day. This arrangement was extremely convenient for small houses, since the stove, installed in the wall between the kitchen and the room, provided all the heating needs of an ordinary family.

The high functionality of the Swede can be complemented by a comfortable and warm bed

Initially, several modifications of Swedish stoves were developed, which, with minor changes, have survived to this day:

• heating and cooking unit with only one stove;
• Swedish with stove and oven;
• a wood-burning heating device equipped with a stove, an oven (one or two) and a water heating tank;
• double-sided stove-fireplace - the cooking part of the stove is located in the kitchen, and the decorative part opens into the hall or living room;
• Swede with a couch.

In addition, depending on personal wishes, the stove, as before, may have one or two niches located above the stove.

Swedish stove with fireplace

The main design parameters were calculated by Swedish scientists so accurately that they have remained virtually unchanged for several centuries. We can say with complete confidence that it is the correct calculation and well-thought-out design of the Swede that are the root cause of all its advantages:

• compact dimensions;
• functional and practical design;
• high efficiency and heat transfer;
• fast heating thanks to simple and effective solutions in the heat exchange part of the unit;
• versatility;
• undemanding to fuel - you can burn any type of solid fuel, from wood shavings and reeds to coal;
• variability of the heating device - its functionality and design can be changed according to your preferences and needs;
• ease of operation and maintenance;
• efficiency;
• possibility of building with your own hands.

The disadvantages of the “Swedish” are the same as those of other channel stoves. First of all, this is rapid cooling when the valve is not closed, as well as the need to periodically clean the channels of the unit from soot. In addition, a wood-burning heat generator places increased demands on construction technology - only new, high-quality brick is suitable for making a “Swede”, and in the process of work, increased concentration, accuracy and maximum efficiency will be required.

The device and secrets of high efficiency

The Swedish stove begins to radiate heat as soon as the first stable flames appear. The secret of such possibilities comes from the decision of Scandinavian scientists to install an oven (in the diagram above it is indicated by number 1) immediately behind the firebox. The heat from the burning volatile gases, which stove makers call the first heat, heats the metal red hot, and the side outlet allows you to successfully arrange the interior of the stove. Due to the barrier installed in the path of hot gases, it was possible to reduce their initial speed - with high flame intensity, heat does not fly into the pipe, as happens in most channel furnaces. In addition, as can be seen in the diagram, in this case the furnace roof serves as a kind of cap, under which the pyrolysis residues are burned well. The advantage of this arrangement of the oven is that the combustion products flowing around its surface go down, so the walls of the heating unit begin to warm up literally from the floor, and one of the components of successful heat transfer is a large surface area, isn’t it?

Swedish oven design

The hob (2) and the recess located above it also contribute to the high heat output. Thanks to heating with the first heat, the heat dissipates from them no worse than from the oven. After the first heat begins to spread throughout the house, the niche can be covered with a wooden damper. Even after the firewood has completely burned out, the heat in the opening will be retained for 6–8 hours, which is convenient to use to keep cooked food warm.

The niche (3), located on the upper tier, is more spacious and does not heat up as much, so if necessary, you can dry wet clothes in it. As in the lower recess, its rear part is made of thin walls. Due to this, the back side is effectively heated in all operating modes of the furnace, from intense combustion to the smoldering of hot coals.

The Swede does not have Hailo in the traditional understanding of this part of the stove. Scientists decided to abolish the vaulted element due to the complexity and rise in cost of the design, installing instead a simple window for the flow of gases from the space under the oven.

Scheme of gas movement in the furnace channels

Hailo in wood stoves is a vaulted smoke collector between the firebox and heat exchange channels or chimney, designed to redirect the gas flow and improve draft. Precisely calculated and equipped according to all the rules, the chimney will not let smoke into the room even in stoves with open fuel chambers, including barbecue units or simple fireplaces.

The enterprising Swedes completely borrowed the heat collector from the Dutch, equipping it according to a proven scheme with vertical channels. Of course, in this case the upper part of the oven heats up more, but the built-in oven does a good job of equalizing the temperature gradient along the height of the heating device. Thanks to the classic layout of the heat exchanger, less soot is formed in the channels. At the same time, it is much more convenient to clean the unit, and this is important, since the stove was originally designed for any type of fuel.

In fact, furnaces were initially developed with two types of heat exchangers - vertical and horizontal. The second type of unit was installed in their homes by wealthy Swedes, who always had one of their servants on hand to clean the ducts. Nowadays, such a heating device is extremely rare.

A Swedish stove was most often installed in the wall between rooms, so there was an additional opportunity to turn its channels into a stove bench. This opportunity was mostly used by ordinary Swedes, but the nobility preferred to install a more presentable structure in this place - a fireplace.

The design of the Swedish heat exchange channels was borrowed from the Dutch ovens that were popular at that time

Thanks to innovations in the fuel and heat exchange parts, the Swedish stove was a model of excellence at that time. Of course, compared to the Dutch one, it cost the owner more, and was more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the high power and unique heat dissipation of the Swede ensured its popularity for the next two hundred years.

Basic parameters, drawings, diagrams and orders

• plate - 710x410 mm;
• combustion chamber: height 280–330 mm, width 300–350 mm, depth 400–500 mm;
• oven: height 280–300 mm, width 330–380 mm, depth 400–500 mm;
• the distance from the front surface of the oven to the edge of the grate is 190–250 mm (from ¾ to 1 brick).

Since the oven is located in a high-temperature zone, increased requirements are placed on the thickness of its walls. Thin metal is not suitable here, as it will burn out within several seasons. It is also not recommended to use too thick material - a massive structure will warm up much worse, which is fraught not so much with a decrease in heat transfer, but with underburning. As a result, the furnace is characterized by increased soot formation and reduced efficiency. The best material for the oven is structural steel with a thickness of 3–4 mm.

When designing a Swede, there is no need to strictly adhere to the dimensions indicated above. If it is necessary to increase the thermal power of the unit, then this will not be achieved by simply burning it out - it will be necessary to proportionally increase the size of all parts of the heating device.

To build a Swedish stove with an oven and a hob, it is best to use the procedures and diagrams that we provide below.

Drawing of the internal channels of the furnace

Swedish oven dimensions

Swede sizes

Orders of a classic Swedish oven

The order of the furnace in the language of specialists means a drawing that indicates the exact order of laying bricks in each row, and also presents the features of the arrangement of floors and determines the installation locations of all structural elements - grates, doors, dampers, stoves and ovens.

In the case where the rear side of the heating unit is planned to be equipped with a fireplace, it is ducted into a common gas channel with the Swede or a separate chimney is installed. In the first case, it will not be possible to heat both devices at the same time, since the flow area of ​​the flue will not allow it. The furnace will have to be equipped with an additional damper, which will cut off the idle unit. The second method will require additional labor and materials, but will provide a unique opportunity to operate two heating devices in one thermodynamic space.

What is needed to build a heating device

The oven, which is offered for production, has a width of 1020 mm, a height of 2170 mm and a depth of 880 mm. The choice of these parameters is determined by the size of standard bricks - when laying the unit, you will not have to look for a half or three-quarter piece again, which significantly reduces construction time. It is recommended to use the principle of multiplying the dimensions of the furnace to the dimensions of the red brick when changing its proportions to suit your own needs.

During the laying process you will need both simple red and fire-resistant fireclay bricks

By the way, in Scandinavian countries entire kits are produced for the construction of stoves of any size. This “constructor” includes everything you need, including the mixture for preparing the solution. We will be able to save a little, since from the list of necessary materials given below, a thrifty and thrifty owner will always have something on hand. So, here is a list of what you will need:

• 500–700 pcs. high-quality red brick of grade M-150 and higher, which must undergo good firing and not have foreign inclusions greater than those required by GOST;
• refractory fireclay brick, grade ША-8 (its dimensions correspond to red brick, which will facilitate installation);
• combustion and blower doors - 1 pc. each;
• cleaning doors - 4 pcs.;
• pre-furnace sheet with a thickness of 0.5 to 2 mm;
• oven;
• grate;
• cast iron two-burner stove;
• metal corner with a shelf of at least 40 mm;
• exhaust valve;
• sheet steel;
• cement;
• sand;
• construction mesh for reinforcement;
• tamping;
• boards for formwork;
• rule at least 1 m long;
• fire-resistant masonry mixture (in extreme cases, it can be replaced with a mixture of clay and sand);
• asbestos or basalt sealant.

Furnace casting has a decisive influence on the appearance of the furnace, so why not use the original developments of foundry designers when choosing it?

Tools that will be needed to prepare the solution and actually construct the Swedish stove:

• construction hammer-pick;
• trowel;
• wooden or rubber mallet;
• jointing;
• construction level;
• square;
• cord and plumb line;
• roulette;
• shovel;
• containers for solution.

You can’t do without a convenient trowel during the construction process.

A classic Swedish stove, unlike a Dutch stove, is not covered with tiles or tiles. However, nothing prevents you from decorating the stove at your own discretion if the brickwork does not fit into the interior design.

Preparatory work

Before you start laying a Swedish stove yourself, you need to build a reliable foundation and prepare a working solution. When choosing a place for a heating device, two basic rules are followed. First, the unit is installed in a wall between two rooms, preferably in a corner. Secondly, the stove chimney should be as close to the center of the building as possible. In this case, the pipe for the exit of combustion products will be located in the most advantageous place - near the ridge, which will provide good traction and ensure that the structure complies with fire safety standards.

Installation diagram of the external part of the chimney

It is best if the foundation of the future furnace is laid simultaneously with the foundation of the house. In this case, both bases should be separated by a sand cushion - it will prevent dangerous movements of the heating device if the support under the walls of the house shrinks.

Having chosen a place to install the Swedish heat generator, outline the outline of the foundation. We remind you that it must protrude beyond the outer perimeter of the stove by at least 10–15 cm. If a plank floor interferes with the construction of the base, then a cutout is made in it corresponding to the cross-section of the heating device. After this, they dig a pit, the depth of which corresponds to the freezing point of the soil.

The bottom of the pit is compacted and covered with a layer of sand 100 to 200 mm thick. The sand cushion is spilled with water and covered with crushed stone to a height of 150–170 mm. The drainage layer is well compacted, after which formwork is installed along the edges of the pit. Usually it is knocked down from anything. We recommend taking even low-grade, but even edged boards. Remember that carefully knocked down and aligned with the side of the formwork will allow you to build a perfectly level foundation with minimal time and effort.

The inside of the structure is lined with polyethylene or roofing felt, after which a reinforcing mesh is installed at a height of 5–10 cm from the bottom. Then thick concrete is mixed, which contains 1 part M-400 cement, 3 parts sand and 6 parts crushed stone. The solution is poured into the prepared fence, after which the surface of the slab is compacted and leveled. The initially leveled edges made from edged boards greatly simplify this work. All that needs to be done to get a perfectly level foundation is to run a rule over them that can cover both sides of the formwork structure.

Construction of the foundation of a Swedish oven

The poured concrete is left for several days, and after it has completely set, the wooden board is removed and the foundation is covered with roofing felt or other waterproofing material.

The preparation of mortar begins with kneading and soaking the clay. After this, sand is added to it and the mixture is thoroughly mixed. The amount of one or another component is determined depending on the fat content of the clay - the higher this indicator, the more sand is required. There is no need to immediately prepare a large amount of solution, since when it settles it will separate into its component parts - you will have to do all the work again. As for factory-made refractory compounds, among other things, they also have an expiration date when mixed, which is recommended to be strictly observed. Experienced stove makers use up to 20 liters of masonry mixture for every hundred bricks. It is this figure that we recommend focusing on when preparing for work.

Step-by-step instructions: how to build a stove with your own hands

Before laying the first brick, you should understand the basic rule of high-quality masonry - control and control again. Not only the first row, but also all niches, corners and internal chambers and channels should be ideally laid out. To do this, the stove maker should always have a building level, square and cord on hand. Beginners are recommended to pull vertical plumbs in all corners and install a horizontal mooring cord for each row. This will ensure the correct geometry of the heating device even despite small flaws in the thickness of the seams.

To prevent moisture from the clay mortar from being absorbed by the pores of the brick during laying, it must be soaked. To do this, the required amount of building material is placed in a vat of cold water and left for one day.

In order not to get confused with the numerous stages of masonry, it is recommended to print out the ordering diagram and carry out the work itself according to a strictly planned plan.

1 row. The laying of the first row is carried out especially carefully, controlling all parameters using a level and square. It is laid out completely on a waterproofed foundation, after which it is completely filled with working solution.
It is allowed to use brick halves inside the masonry, provided they are securely tied to the next row. It is recommended to make the outer walls only with whole bricks - this will ensure a beautiful appearance of the stove after jointing.

Laying the first rows forms the base of the furnace, so it is done continuously

2nd row laid out similarly to the first - in a continuous array according to the ordering scheme. The first two rows are given special attention, as they must form a reliable and stable base for the oven.

3rd and 4th row forms an ash pan. A blower and three cleaning doors are also installed here. To ensure that the place where they meet the wall does not crack during operation of the stove (and this will certainly happen due to different thermal expansion of metal and ceramics), the cracks around the door frames are sealed using asbestos or basalt sealant.

When installing the door, you will need to trim the face of the brick.

Starting from 5 rows, install the oven and build in the grate. After this, a ceiling is installed above the cleanouts and the blower door. The top brick is laid on a metal corner, which is cut into the bricks of the bottom row.

One of the options for installing a grate

WITH 6 to 10th row lay out the combustion chamber. A partition is installed between the firebox and the oven, using fireclay bricks mounted on an edge. When covering the firebox, an opening should form above the bulkhead, so its height relative to the upper plane is reduced by 1 brick. After laying the tenth row, a cast-iron stove with burners is installed above the firebox opening. Its compaction is carried out using the same asbestos or basalt cardboard. For additional strength, the brick edge is protected on the front side with a metal corner. To securely fasten it, drillings are made on both sides into which steel wire is threaded. Laid in the interbrick seam, it will prevent the corner from moving and provide it with additional strength. The same corner is installed to protect the upper edge of the opening, supported by the side bricks of the 16th row.

Along the course of the masonry, the joints are opened. It is important not to allow the solution to dry out completely.

Laying down 11 row, block the channel separating the firebox and the flue on the right side of the stove.

WITH 12 to 16th row lay out the cooking opening and vertical channels. The openings of the flue ducts in this place must be made with fire-resistant bricks.

Scheme of orders forming vertical channels

17–18th row needed to form the ceiling of a niche that is located above the slab. The bricks of the top row are supported by a strip of steel sheet laid on top of the metal corners.

Starting 19th and 20th row, two hatches are mounted on the front wall for cleaning the gas ducts.

Procedure for increasing the furnace array

WITH 21 to 28th row increase the vertical channels of the heating device. When laying out the 27th row, a furnace valve is installed, above which a technological opening is left.

29th and 30th row slightly widen around the perimeter (a 50 mm protrusion is sufficient), obtaining a stove cornice. These two rows cover the chimney channels, leaving only one opening for combustion products to exit into the chimney.

Procedure for covering the furnace

IN 31st row the cross-section of the furnace is reduced - it must correspond to the parameters of row 27.

Starting from 32 rows, lay out the chimney. The cross-section of its channel is taken to be 130x250 mm - standard dimensions allow laying with whole bricks.

Chimney orders

The chimney must be driven to the required height and equipped with a cap, after which the construction of the stove can be considered complete.

Launch of the Swede into operation

It is best to build the stove in summer or early autumn, so that natural heat can dry the masonry. In cold weather, various devices will help remove moisture from the walls and channels - air heaters, heat guns, etc.

Drying the oven at an air temperature of at least 20° C is carried out within 10–12 days. At the same time, all doors and latches open. If the moisture is removed forcibly, then a fan heater is placed in the firebox, and all stove openings are closed, leaving an air passage to the chimney.

Swedish oven at work

1. For two weeks, the swede is heated with minimal fillings, which are formed from small, thin logs. In this case, it is advisable not to allow the oven to cool completely. The quality of the primary firing is checked using crumpled newspapers, which are placed in cleaning channels. The low intensity of the flame will prevent the paper from catching fire, but whether it is wet or dry after burning will serve as an excellent indicator of the quality of drying.
2. Hot firing is also carried out gradually, heating the oven several times a day, morning and evening. The power is increased gradually, each time slightly increasing the amount of fuel.

Following the rules of drying and firing will strengthen and harden the masonry joints, which will guarantee reliable and long-term operation of the Swedish stove.

The frequency of cleaning the heating ducts depends on the quality of the fuel and can be done 1-2 times a year. The best firewood is, of course, considered large birch logs - they will give both a flame and long-lasting heat. Experienced stove makers recommend heating the stove with dry aspen once every two weeks - it helps remove soot naturally. But it is unsafe to burn the stove with various flammable substances - this can lead to a fire. Unfortunately, even in our high-tech times, there is still no better way than removing soot manually using scrapers and brushes.

Video: ordering the Swedish stove

As you probably already understood, a Swedish stove cannot be built from just anything - first of all, you will need high-quality materials. In addition, experienced stove makers recommend starting construction only in a good mood - then things get going, the work progresses faster, and, as they say, the soul sings. We advise you to approach the process with all the scrupulousness and patience that you are capable of. Believe me, the Swede will thank you for this with such comfort and cozy warmth that only a simple wood-burning stove, born in a hospitable, fairy-tale country, is capable of.

Swedish oven with stove and oven

In the absence of gas heating, a Swedish stove can serve as a worthy analogue. It allows you not only to heat your house or cottage, but also to use the stove for cooking. Unlike the Russian stove, this stove has lower efficiency, but it heats up faster due to its small size. Most often, such a stove is placed in the wall between the kitchen and the living room, or the living room and the kitchen. If desired, such a stove can have an additional bench. The classic version is made of ceramic bricks, and the firebox is made of fireclay. A large oven is located on the side of the firebox. The oven heats up in the first minutes of the fire and helps improve the heating of the room.

Photo

The Swedish stove "Shvedka" can be visible, rough and weighty. Usually equipped with a stove and oven. Small decorative options are placed in the corner. The modern analogue is made from ceramic bricks and can be lined with soapstone magnesite. They can be installed in any convenient place. This design has a special storage cap, which helps burn fuel and increase the heat transfer of the stove. This oven consists of a lower, upper niche and a niche above the stove.

Catalog of stoves "Shvedok"

	Has a high level of efficiency. High degree of heat transfer, functionally adapted to cook food in the oven or on burners, of which there may be one or two.. It heats up quite quickly. The combustion process is regulated (by dampers). Can be done with “winter” and “summer” running.
	Swede oven 2 With good efficiency, it is small in size. Ovens of this type are multifunctional. Food is cooked on them, water is heated, various foods and clothes are dried. Rooms are heated with such stoves.. In addition, the Swede can be wall-mounted; angular; in the center of the room; built into the wall.
	This design can be: wall-mounted; angular; in the center of the room; built into the wall. Dimensions - 115 x 90 x cm. Weight 2000 kg. Heat output with two fireboxes per day is 1900 kcal/h. Power = 4.2 kW. Can heat a house up to 40 m2.
	Equipped with an oven, a stove with one or two burners, and an upper drying chamber. In this design, the firebox is located on one side. It is possible to move the combustion door (if the customer requests it) to the opposite side.
	By combining a stove and a heating stove into a single structure, you will get a device of this design. There is a firebox with a stove, an oven and a heat shield.
	Plate with shield 6 Design dimensions: 102 x 102 x 217 cm. Weight (including shield) - 2800 kg. Heat transfer (with two fireboxes) - 3100 kcal/h. The front sides of the shield and slab are usually plastered.

Design and features of the Swedish stove

The lower niche heats up first, the second after. The upper niche is quite spacious. Warming up occurs with both the first, second, and final heat. The Swede heats the lower part first, since the flue gases from the firebox go down. Instead of a chimney for this oven, an overflow is made, which is placed below the oven. To preserve heat, after the firewood burns out, you need to close the valve. Vertical channels are considered a classic option. Horizontal channels heat better, but require more frequent cleaning.

Heating and cooking stove Swedish No. 2. Designed for a rural home. Has heating and cooking functions on the stove and oven. The most common design in northern latitudes.

The process of building a Swedish

The process of constructing a Swedish stove. For the construction of the furnace, the following calculations are taken: for the stove - 71 by 41 centimeters; for the firebox (height, width, depth) 30 by 35 and 45 centimeters; for oven 30 by 35 and 50 centimeters. These dimensions may vary depending on the oven version. The metal walls for the oven must be at least 4 millimeters. The distance from the edge of the grate to the oven should be about one brick. There should be a gap of a quarter brick from the back of the oven to the firebox. The oven is made of dense cast metal.

Orders of the Shvedka stove

When the oven approaches the firebox, the walls are additionally protected with vermiculite. The door must be cast iron. It is attached to the masonry, which guarantees reliable fixation.

Before masonrybrick ovensThe floor is thermally insulated. Insulation can be made from basalt cardboard. The insulation is laid so that at the end a 1.5 centimeter layer is formed. The middle layer is made from a foil sheet.
The foot of the stove (the first 2 rows) is laid out with widened centimeter seams, this creates a ledge. The brick is moistened before laying. The next two rows form an ash pan and three doors are installed for cleaning the oven. The doors are mounted with a gap. An asbestos cord is inserted into the gaps.

With a two-layer stove made of red and fireclay bricks, a distance of 6 millimeters is made between them. The internal lining of the furnace is lined with fireclay bricks. The grate bars are inserted. And the oven is inserted into the same row. From the sixth to the ninth the combustion chamber is formed. The door is inserted. The tenth row covers the oven.

Next, the slab is laid and smoke channels are made. When laying the slab, quarters are cut out of the bricks.From the twelfth to the sixteenth, the cooking chamber and smoke exhaust channels are laid out. The next two are laid with trimmed bricks. From the twenty-first to the twenty-eighth there is a chimney. In the twenty-seventh, a valve is inserted with a basalt cord gasket in the gap. From the twenty-ninth row there is an extension for the cornice of 5 centimeters. The channels (except the pipe) are closed.

The next row is made even wider by 5 centimeters. Then the size is reduced to the original size. The pipe is laid out in 5 bricks. In front of the ceiling, 3 rows of pipes are fluffed up. The thickness of the pipe is one and a half bricks. An iron smoke cap is placed on top of the pipe. The pipe running outside the house is lined with cement mortar.

Materials

* ceramic brick m200, - 600 pcs.;
* brick-resistant, - 80 pcs.;
* fire door 210 x 250 mm - 1 pc.;
* blower door 250 x 140 mm - 1 pc.;
* cleaning door 140 x 140 mm - 5 pcs.;
* cast iron plate 410 x 710 mm - 1 pc.;
* oven 450 x 360 x 300 mm - 1 pc.;
* grate bars length 250 mm - 1 piece;
* pre-furnace sheet 500 x 700 mm - 1 pc.

Video: Do-it-yourself Swedish oven

Chimney

The Swede's chimney is made with a wider fluff. It rises above the ridge of the house to a height of at least 60 centimeters. The width of the fluff from the edges of the mouth should be half a brick in all directions. There should be a gap of 5-6 centimeters between the iron roof parts and the brick.

After building the stove, the Swede must dry and only then can it be used. To dry it, you can heat it daily with a minimum amount of aspen firewood. Warming up increases over time until it reaches full power. After this, you can use the Swedish oven.

Among the wide range of modern heating equipment, the Swedish stove occupies a special position due to the combination of the best properties of multi-pass and bell-type models. This heating unit is highly efficient: provided that the efficiency reaches 80%, the stove pleases with its versatility and compact size.

Compared to the common Russian stove, the brick Swede has minimal dimensions: without additional extensions it occupies 1 m² of usable area, the height reaches 2 m. Multifunctionality is ensured thanks to the possibility of installing a fireplace on the living room side, a hob directly in the kitchen, as well as an oven, dryer and sun lounger With a smaller mass than its relatively common Russian counterpart, the Swede exhibits the same high heat transfer.

If you introduce additional valves, you can configure “winter” and “summer” heating modes. The unit heats up within 15 minutes; unlike other stoves, you can use coal, pallets, firewood, and peat with equal success. Even in harsh climatic conditions, a two-time firebox is enough to maintain an optimal daily microclimate.

The heat exchanger, assembled from vertically or horizontally directed channels, does not require labor-intensive maintenance. If you follow basic rules, you can avoid the formation of plugs from combustion products. But we must remember that high performance indicators will be achieved only if selected materials are used: for example, for masonry you will need high-quality ceramic and fireclay bricks.

The only vulnerability of the model may be the firebox door. This part operates under conditions of maximum thermal loads, made of stamped sheet, it will quickly fail. Cast iron specimens equipped with “whiskers” or fasteners in the form of claws are optimal.

Structural and functional features

The main advantage of a Swedish brick stove is its compactness - even “tiny” ones can cope with the maintenance of residential premises. In this model, combustion products are delivered to the pipe through a channel chimney. Bell elements located above the drying chamber and firebox are responsible for heat exchange. If a Swedish stove is installed with an oven, the latter is placed on the same level as the firebox, which ensures quick heating.

Hob

A Swedish stove with a stove is a traditional configuration; it involves the use of a thick cast iron plate, in which there are 2 lockable burners. Typically, such slabs have standard dimensions of 410x710 mm. The height of the firebox varies between 280-330 mm, the width reaches 350 mm, and the length reaches 550 mm.

Gas channel system

The channels can be horizontally or vertically oriented; the smoke passing through them heats up the structure, and the room is heated from its walls. This is an economical and highly efficient system: the heat that seeps through the pipe in conventional Russian stoves is here directed directly to heating.

If the flue channels in a Swedish heating stove are horizontal, the walls of the structure are heated more evenly. But in this case, more cleaning holes with molded doors will have to be introduced into the system, which will increase the final cost of the masonry.

Vertically located channels can function perfectly with one technical hatch, but here another problem arises - uneven heating of the furnace. The shield in the first channel, into which combustion products are immediately directed, becomes hot faster compared to the third (output). That is, one room may be cooler than another.

The bell-type device works with one cleaning window, the surface of the furnace is evenly heated, and less bricks are required for construction. The unit cools down more slowly, since heat is retained in the upper part of the hoods, and ventilation from the doors is carried out only in the center.

Oven

The large volume of the cabinet allows you to prepare a wide range of dishes, it is convenient to use. The oven is made of cast iron; tin or sheet variations are not acceptable here; it will be needed not only for baking - the special design helps to quickly warm up the room immediately after kindling, if you open the door.

The box is comparable in size to the size of the firebox; it is mounted in close proximity, but so as not to have direct contact with the flame. The optimal oven wall thickness is 4-6 mm.

Convenient extensions – a couch and a fireplace

Often the heating device is equipped with a fireplace on the front or back side (that is, it will be installed either in the kitchen or in the living room). The chimney can be combined or separate. In the first case, a single structure is formed, it is easier to assemble, and little material is needed. But you can heat it either with a stove or a fireplace. Separate chimneys are not as economical to build, but they allow you to use both heating methods at the same time.

Swede stoves with a stove bench are in great demand. This device is assembled from the back of the unit, its standard length is 7 bricks, width is 3 bricks. The smoke channels passing inside heat this podium when certain valves are opened. Typically, such oven models are not equipped with an oven.

Auxiliary shelves and niches

On the front side, 2 large shelves are built into Swedish models, both located above the hob. The lower shelf heats up more, the upper one uses only the heat transfer of the brick. If you close the niche opening with a wooden or metal door, a kind of low-temperature oven is formed.

Auxiliary shelves and niches in a Swedish oven are often used for drying berries and mushrooms

Simple models use straight horizontal floors. Arched structures look more interesting and can become the highlight of the interior, although they are difficult to assemble and increase the consumption of materials.

Do-it-yourself Swedish stove: ordering a model with 3 modes

The operation of traditional configurations does not imply modes; such units are very difficult to melt in winter - smoke penetrates into the room. If there is a “summer” mode, the closed valve is moved back only after the neglected section of the chimney has warmed up. Thanks to the temperature difference formed during this 5-minute period, the necessary draft is created. The third, “autumn” mode improves functionality during the spring and autumn period of use.

Supplies overview

Such variations are small in size - 30 rows are enough, another 2 are used to form a pipe. Such a Swedish brick stove has dimensions of 114x76 cm, reaches a height of 210 cm, the parameters of the pipe and materials for it are usually indicated separately in the order.

Materials for masonry:

• red stove brick (solid);
• fireproof (fireclay) brick;
• cast iron hob;
• cast firebox door;
• doors for cleaning holes and blower;
• valves;
• grate;
• oven;
• steel corners;
• sheet metal

Masonry mortar is made on a clay base.

Arrangement of the Swedish stove

The first 2 rows are laid solid from oven bricks, with bandaging; here it is important to observe geometry - adhere to right angles, make sure that the diagonals are the same.

For the third row, take fireclay and add 1 red brick, here the ash chamber and the oven compartment are already outlined, and a vertical channel is formed to the rudiments of the lower cap. The material used to form the passage is sawed off. Cleaning holes must be provided in the side walls; at the same stage, the ash pan door is installed.

The fourth row is placed in the same way, but the passage between the oven and the hood is slightly reduced. 2 strips of metal are mounted above the ash pan door. In the 5th row these plates are covered with bricks. At this stage, a grate is introduced and the passage to the hood is further narrowed. Hereinafter, only fireclay bricks are used for masonry.

At the 6th stage, the firebox begins to take shape. When forming the entrance to it, 2 bricks are cut at an acute angle. The passage between the oven and the hood is immediately blocked, and an oven chamber is installed. In the 7th row, the firebox continues to be laid out; a door is inserted into it.

Next, in 8-10 rows, a fuel chamber is formed; again, part of the red brick is used for work. The oven is also lined here. The tenth row is marked by the union of two chambers - the firebox and the oven.

In the 11th row, a “summer” mode channel is laid, grooves are cut out in the fireclay material for installing a cast iron plate (here compensation for thermal expansion must be taken into account), and an asbestos cord is placed in the gaps. The outer edge of the hob is insulated with a metal corner.

At the 12th stage, the cooking chamber is designed and the “summer” mode channel is laid. The lower cap ends in the 13th row and is covered with red brick. Change in the 14th row - an oblique undercut of one brick in the right vertical channel.

Rows 15-16 – laying out the first horizontal channel. The 17th is similar, also here the supports for the arch above the hob are placed - a corner and 2 metal strips. At 18-19 the vault is closed, the valve is inserted for the “summer” mode.

20th row - laying the drying niche, the second horizontal channel, as well as the “autumn” valve. 21st – preparation for further blocking of the “summer” channel, formation of a hole for the installation of a cleaning door.

22nd – the “summer” channel is divided in two, in the 23rd they are overlapped. In the 24th row, a small drying chamber is laid; at the next stage, the third horizontal channel and two already formed vertical ones are combined. The 26th is focusing on the horizontal channel, preparations are underway for the introduction of a damper.

The 27th row completes the drying chambers, the next step is to block all the channels, lay out the bricks with a 3 cm protrusion, and remove the main smoke channel. In the 29th row, the protrusion increases by another 3 cm, the formation of the smoke channel continues, the next stage is similar, but in its original dimensions.

At the final positions, the chimney is brought out to a given height.

In winter, all the power of the structure is used, that is, the basic mode is activated. The “summer” stage, thanks to the valve, uses only part of the potential, and the “autumn” stage will allow the use of a little more than half of the channels. These measures allow you to optimize the heating process and save fuel.

The Swedish stove is a unique design in its characteristics, which is suitable both for heating residential premises and for preparing a variety of food. The design features and relatively small size of the unit allow it to be placed in adjacent rooms. Usually the front side of the Swede goes into the kitchen, and the back wall into the living room to heat it.

The Swede is characterized by a very high efficiency, especially for its modest size. The power of one standard stove of this type is enough to heat a room of up to 25-30 m2.

At its core, the Swedish stove is an ordinary heating and cooking stove, additionally equipped with a three- or five-channel panel. If desired, the design of the Swede can be supplemented with a couch or a convenient drying rack.

Among the main advantages of the Swede, one should note the ease of laying it yourself - you just need to prepare the required materials, understand the order and do everything according to the instructions.

The order of the furnace should be understood as a drawing indicating the order in which each row of the structure is laid out.

What is needed to lay a Swede?

A standard Swedish oven has dimensions of 1020x880x2170 mm. If you wish, you can change the proposed dimensions at your discretion, but the stated values ​​are the most optimal and universal.

Set for laying a Swedish stove

1. Red brick. Construction materials must be of exceptionally high quality.
2. Fire brick.
3. Door for the combustion chamber.

   



4. Doors for cleaning compartments.
5. Damper.
6. Oven.



7. Grate.
8. Steel corners.
9. Sheet steel.
10. Clay solution.
11. Metal pre-furnace sheet.
12. Hammer-pick.
13. Trowel. With the help of this device you will throw masonry mortar onto the building material.
14. Mallet. This tool is designed for tamping the building material used.
15. Joinings. They will help you give masonry joints a beautiful shape.

    

16. Construction level.
17. Scoop shovel for preparing masonry mortar.
18. Square.
19. Roulette.
20. Rule.
21. Mooring cord.
22. Plumb.
23. Refractory mixture for masonry (an alternative to ready-made mixtures - a composition of refractory clay, sand and water).

    

Furnace construction procedure

The layout of the stove in question is carried out in accordance with the order. This, as already noted, is a special diagram that indicates the order of laying out each row of the structure. There are standard procedures. If you do not have the skills to lay out ovens, it is strongly recommended to use one of the standard schemes.

A well-designed order will allow you to significantly reduce the time and money spent on stove construction. The work will be carried out in a precise and easy to understand manner to ensure maximum efficiency.

Having figured out the order of the Swedish furnace before the start of construction, you will be able to lay out the unit yourself, without involving third-party craftsmen in the work and without spending money on paying for their labor.

The detailed order additionally indicates which materials should be used and at what stage of the work.

Study the proposed order and additionally pay attention to the following points:

• The design of the Swedish stove includes a blower. This point must be remembered in the process of independently arranging the stove;
• The first row of bricks must be laid perfectly evenly. Any displacements will lead to various violations that will negatively affect the quality and reliability of the finished furnace unit. To check the evenness of the masonry, use a building level;
• The correctness of the angles must be checked - they must be strictly 90 degrees. Check the angles using a suitable tool called a square.

The reliability, efficiency and durability of a Swedish oven largely depends on the correct layout of the first row; remember this.

Before you start laying the stove yourself, complete a few simple preparatory steps.

First of all soak the brick. To do this, the bricks need to be dipped in clean water and left there for about a day. Water will fill the pores in the brick structure. Thanks to this, the building material will not absorb water from the clay solution in the future.

Prepare a clay solution. It will consist of ground clay, some sand and clean water. The specific ratio of components is selected in accordance with the characteristics of the clay.

It is important that the finished solution has normal plasticity and a uniform structure. On average, laying hundreds of bricks takes about 20 liters of mortar.

1 row. It was previously noted that this row should be laid out exclusively at the building level with additional checking using a square. Lay out this row in continuous masonry. It is allowed to use half bricks inside.

2nd row. Lay out in the same pattern as the 1st row. Be careful and do everything in strict accordance with technology, because... the first two rows serve as the base of the furnace, which should be as reliable as possible.

3-4 rows. Continue laying, gradually forming an ash chamber. At the same stage of masonry, the door of the mentioned chamber is installed. Additionally, 3 doors for cleaning hatches and a door for the blower are installed. Place smoke vents on the reverse side of the swede. They are placed in a vertical position and communicate with the combustion chamber through a hole created during the laying out of the furnace.

5 row. Install the finished oven and place a grate of suitable size in it. Form a cover for the cleaning hatches and the ash door.

6-10 row. Lay out the walls of the firebox and oven chamber. A partition made of fire-resistant brick is laid between the combustion compartment and the oven. The brick must be laid on edge. The partition should be a row lower than the chamber itself. After the tenth row is ready, lay a standard steel corner and an additional cast iron slab on the front of the structure. To secure the corner, use steel wire and a 2-centimeter layer of clay mortar.

11 row. Completely complete the closure of the channel through which the cast iron plate and the right wall of the furnace are separated.

12-16 row. Lay out the cooking compartment and 3 vertical flues. Lay out chimney openings from fire-resistant bricks.

17-18 row. Form an overlap over the cooking compartment. To form the ceiling, use the sheet steel laid in the previous stages and a corner made of the same material.

Row 19-20. Attach 2 hatches to the front of the door structure for cleaning the gas exhaust channels.

Rows 21-28. Lay out the chimney ducts. Don't forget to re-tie your stitches. In the process of laying out the 27th row, install a convenient latch. Above the installed smoke damper, leave a technological hole through which the gas ducts will interface with the air ducts.

Row 29-30. Lay out the overlap of the chimney ducts. At this stage, the width of the masonry around the perimeter must be increased by 50 mm. Thanks to this expansion, a cornice will be formed.

31 row. Adjust the dimensions of the overlap to the structural dimensions of the 27th row.

32 row. Start laying out the chimney. The standard chimney design has dimensions of 130x250 mm.

At this point, the oven layout can be considered complete. At the end, all that remains is to complete the installation of the chimney, and also, if desired, to decorate the stove, for example, with paint or ceramic tiles. Additionally, you can buy a variety of accessories, for example, for storing fuel.

Shvedka stove (rear view)

Thus, there is nothing complicated about laying a Swedish stove yourself. A detailed order will help you quickly understand the specifics of the work and lay out the stove with your own hands. Follow the instructions, remember to check the evenness of the rows, and everything will work out.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself Swedish oven, ordering